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Actually, the refi through the bank is not a traditional home refinance. It's a lean they put against your house. There is no home appraisal, no lengthy closing with lawyers involved, no termite inspections, none of that. I simply call my local bank branch and ask them what I can do to refinance my car loan. They offered me 7% interest on a car with 17,000 miles over a 60 month term. It's the same as a traditional auto loan that you'd get through a dealer or elsewhere with one small catch: you sign a paper that says if you default on the loan and the value of repo at auction is not adequate to cover the loan they can go after the equity in your home. Obviously this is a very lengthy process for them to go through to obtain their money and they're also bound by law to allow you a certain amount of time before they can proceed with the worse case scenario.
What all this means is that by doing a traditional car loan this way it will lower your interest rate on a used car (I'm not sure where it would stand on a new car) and you're able to claim the interest you've paid on your car loan at the end of the year. Win/win situation in my book. Unless I become disabled and can't work but I have insurance for that anyway regardless of whether my auto were financed in this manner.
Octo13er
Don't let them rush you or let them make you feel as though you've asked any dumb questions. A lot of the information they share is often put in such a way that it makes you hesitant to pry any further. They act as though "Well, yeah, stupid. Everybody knows that." I found a lot of sales and managers use this technique as well as sounding as though they don't have time or are in a rush. Call them on it. Say "I'm sorry, am I making you late for something? Because I'm sure there's another dealership willing to answer my questions." They more than likely will have an excuse at which point you should again apologize and offer to hang up. Don't let them pry you into visiting the showroom until all the questions have been answered (and don't forget those expensive installation fees on the accesories, one question I wish I'd have asked!).
Octo13er
Has anyone purchased a similar CRV, and have any tips on how they got the deal? I'm replacing a 2003 Civic that was totaled in a recent accident, and am planning on going to three other local Honda dealers to see who can make the best offer. Any input on dealers in this area is also appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I, personally, don't think that putting a depriciating asset like a vehicle against an appreciating asset as a house is a good idea.
But, then again, I only financed the vehicles if the loan rate was lower than the T-bill or whatever stable rate is out there such as on-line savings accounts (Citibank, HSBC, EmigrantDirect, ING).
If the loan rates are higher than the guaranteed interest rate, I'll just use cash.
Currently, Citibank, HSBC, and EmigrantDirect offer 5.05% APY on deposits over $1 (one dollar). When I financed the Civic it was at 1.9% for 60 months, and the CR-V is financed at 2.9% for 60 months, both through AHFC. In a sense, Honda is paying me to borrow money from them.
Just to be clear: You're depositing the full loan amount from your own pocket into a savings account with a 5.05% APY? And if the car loan interest is equal to or higher than your savings account you just pay cash? Either way it demands that you have the full amount available, and let's pretend not everybody has that kind of equity.
Not a bad deal assuming that "extra" cash is available, but if I had $32k available it sure wouldn't be in a savings account no matter what the APY. It would be in a well placed acre on a soon to be busy street in one of the fastest growing counties in the U.S. Drop $300k into commercial improvements (not my money, the banks) and watch my pockets bulge.
I know what you're talking about and it's a great idea, but not all of us can swing that right now.
Octo13er
MSRP 24,050
Factory Invoice 22,364
Sell price 23,250
Destination Charge 595
Doc 58
ERT 25
Plates 143
"Internet fee" 99
Final cost to me 23,576
Sales tax (IL = 6.5%) 1,532
Final cost including Sales Tax 25,109
We are very happy with it so far.
Good deal?
Don't trade in your old car. Sell it yourself, instead. That's the only way to extract the maximum value from your old car, & it also simplifies & clarifies your purchase transaction. You can now concentrate on purchase price rather than worry about both purchase price & trade-in allowance.
Arrange your financing in advance. That way, you'll have your financial parameters nailed down in advance. You won't be at the mercy of the F&I guy.
Don't buy the extended warranty. If you're worried that expensive repairs will wipe out your savings, then you don't have enough savings. Start now to bulk up your savings account balance. When folks tell me that they buy extended warranties for "peace of mind", I remind them that you can't beat money in the bank for real peace of mind.
Skip the dealer add-ons. Wait until you've driven your new car for a few weeks before deciding what accessories you need. Then order them from Web-based retailers.
In short, I'm recommending that you lock down all of the key variables except vehicle purchase price before you set foot in the showroom. You'll feel less stressed & more in control of the process.
The dealers in the Twin Cities were all asking $200 - $700 more than we paid, but none of them had our preferred color in stock or on a truck.
EXL, no options $25,495.
No trade. We're selling our 98 Odyssey ourselves after our son uses it to move. Now I can quit spending my spare time reading car brochures and go outdoors and play.
Just to be clear: You're depositing the full loan amount from your own pocket into a savings account with a 5.05% APY? And if the car loan interest is equal to or higher than your savings account you just pay cash? Either way it demands that you have the full amount available, and let's pretend not everybody has that kind of equity.
Not a bad deal assuming that "extra" cash is available, but if I had $32k available it sure wouldn't be in a savings account no matter what the APY. It would be in a well placed acre on a soon to be busy street in one of the fastest growing counties in the U.S. Drop $300k into commercial improvements (not my money, the banks) and watch my pockets bulge.
I know what you're talking about and it's a great idea, but not all of us can swing that right now.
Octo13er
Housing market is not as hot as it was let's say 5 years ago. We are probably heading into a housing recession...
So, you are betting your house on a car. Just imagine a worst case scenario, you lose your job and can't pay the bills. If you have separate car note and house note, you may be able to scrap enough cash to make the house payment, and let them take the car. But, now, you have your car tied up in the house, and can lose both the car and the house.
As to investing into land, you have to know what you are doing. If you are investing in the hottest county in the US, then you are too late to the game already. You need to invest into something that will become hot, before it is hot to reap the most benefits.
The reason I brought up online savings accounts is because the usual "Risk Free" benchmark is Treasury bills, but at this point, the online savings accounts provide higher yield with the same benefits of being "Risk Free" as T-bills, since both are guaranteed by the US government.
One can invest in many things, but one has to remember that general rule of thumb is to have 6 months worth of income in very liquid form. You can't get anymore liquid than cash, but it depriciates at the rate of inflation, so the next best thing is online savings, which beat inflation by about 2%.
Going from Honda purchaser's demographics (Median household income for Honda buyer is $85,000), Honda buyer should have about $42,000 in liqud assets to get by in case something were to happen. Anything over $42,000 can be invested into stocks, properties, mutual funds, ect...
I am not telling you what to do with your money, I am just haring my and other financially conservative people's view.
Wow, $85K is an average income...wonder how much the army is paying dh nowadays....
Anyway I am looking for CR-V EX 2WD in Dallas FortWorth (DFW) area, anyone have suggestion of dealer and approximate out the door (OTD) price? Thanking you in advance.
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This is 'e-bay age", everything is available online or over phone. I believe DFW area dealers are still living in old ways.
Any way I always prefer to do negotiation on "out the door" price. I ask dealers, tell me amount that goes on "check". So far getting out the door price is "$24300". I am expecting to have up to "23500 - OTD".
If you get good deal in DFW area, please keep me posted. Thanks.
But for right now, negoitating room is alot slimmer than I'd ever experienced before. DH and I had a great advantage in that we were not in desperate need for a vehicle at this time, dealer KNEW that. So we were able to walk out the door of many dealers.
That said, for a 4wd navi, we paid $27715, that is before doc fees (which I made those disappear by having them lower some prices on accessories we ordered) and taxes. Alot for a small SUV but I felt somewhat appeased reading Consumer Reports and such and seeing that that is pretty much the price for these little guys of all brands right now.
And guess what, this year with gas prices, I will get the kids in the car, start it up in the garage, back out into the drive way, look at my kids, say hope you enjoyed our summer drive and come right back in....rofl
You're correct about the dealers withholding any concrete quotes through e-mail. The majority of the dealerships that responded preferred that I pay them a visit in person. Two of the dealers are asking for an 5.93% markup from invoice (21,251 + 595 dest).
The salesman was great when I picked up the car - no pressure to add anything on to it. I had a blank check from Capitol One for a good rate, so Honda had to work to get the loan. I did the financing through them - told them I appreciated the deal they gave on the car and if they could give me a payment at the same or better rate, I would finance through them so they could make that profit. They came in better. The finance guy advised me to finance for five years (rate was 1% better than 36mo) and then calculated what I should overpay each month to pay it off in 36 mo with no penalty.
All told the best car buying experience ever and I have been buying cars for almost 35 years!! It is so nice to go in knowing what a fair price is ( I calculate they actually made about 5% profit). Thanks again folks.
I ended up getting an LX in Borrego Beige Metallic. I traded in my 1997 Ford Explorer 2-Door SPORT with just 64,912 miles on it and got $4,300 for trade-in. The total price including 7.5% tax and destination fee was $21,366. Very happy with LX as I wasn't interested in the extras on the EX (sunroof and CD changer, etc.) and definitely not the EX-L (heated seats, nav system--can't think of when I'd ever use them).
Very pleased with front wheel drive and handling compared to my Ford Explorer. And the better gas mileage will definately be a big plus. I'm a very happy new HONDA owner tonight.
Is this considered a GOOD DEAL in Houston? Badly need your advice since I have to make a deal this weekend...THANKS!
I would stay away from the paint sealant... take care of the vehicle and wax it as needed, and the paint will be just fine.
The protection kit is nice but I suspect VERY expensive from the dealer. If you can subtract that out, buy it online, you get the honda parts but without the dealer markup.
The CR-V is now the best-selling SUV. That's what you're dealing with
Havent seen anything here for EX-L with navi. Anyone get for less than $1k over invoice?
Your 27,800 was without Tax, title, fees, etc., right?
For me, it was a sense of time vs shopping further with my trade.
Power mirrors are standard. rear mud guards are built in. it seems like a decent price. depends also what time is worth.The price is certainly lower than in february.Test them about throwing in rear cargo tray and/or fog lights.(I didn't)Live and learn
Navi's seem to be particularly hard to find. The Honda and Toyota dealers here in TN told us that this was not a luxury car area so it would be harder to find certain upgraded models and even specific colors.
anyone bought Honda 2WD EX recently in Houston area? what is the drive-out price? could you share some information?
Thanks,
Chris
Please help with good suggestion for DALLAS area.
Try Freeman Honda - I was able to purchase one for less than MSRP with absolutely no dealer add-ons from them (2WD EX-L).
Check with their internet sales department, you can play one dealership off the other, but be aware, there are dealerships that will pull all sorts of tricks so as to not honor an agreed upon price.
Freeman was up front out of the gate with me and never once tried to up-sell me on anything else - not even a warranty.
I did buy the 7Yr, 120K, $0 deductible Honda Care Warranty from them, but they matched the price I had gotten from the Internet (985.00) with no questions asked. I asked for the warranty, the finance person never brought it up.