2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience

brandimo

The cheapest quote I've gotten in mid-MI is from Friendly Honda in Clinton Township down by Utica - $300 below invoice but that was for an EX AWD manual tranny. I don't know how much the doc fees are though... I am either going to buy a CRV or a Toyota RAV4 when I get back to the States in a couple weeks (Air Force officer living overseas for the last 4 years). If you get a better quote or if anyone has a recommendation on a Toyota dealer, post it if you get a chance.

blueiedgod

Saturday I picked up an 05 CR-V EX Auto in Redondo Red for $200 under invoice (originally negotiated invoice but I made them back out their documentation/processing fee of $192), 3% tax ($670) and $62 tag/title for an out the door total of $22991. I was able to get a 60 month loan thru AHFC at 4.94%. Boyd Honda in Oxford, NC. The morons at Leith in Raleigh have their noses in the air and don't like to give anyone a good deal, so an extra 40 minute drive saved me hundreds. I noticed that the vehicle did not come with a leather(like) case for the owners manual (registration card, insurance card, etc) in the glove compartment. Did they forget to give it to me, or do they CR-V's not come with them. I have yet to buy a car that did not at least have something to put them into.

I never had a Honda with a leather like case. You must be a former Ford driver.

blueiedgod

I am considering for a certified CRV LX 4WD model

Mileage approx 30000 mile
Year 2002
Year 2003

I would like to know what sort of prices can I actually get on these. The prices on dealers websites are way over the top - close to new ones !!!!

please advise. I am inm rochetser NY

any ideas who is a good dealer to deal with
john holtz
dick ide
ontario
ralph

Peter
Rochester, NY

I would say that the price on these will be very close to the new, and sometimes higher than the new. You are better off buying a new one. IF you are financing, any difference in savings in price will be eaten up by the higher interest rate. Don Davis Honda (Amherst, NY) has a 2002 EX, manual, with a $15K tag on it. I am sure there is room to negotiate.

$15K financed for 60 months at 7% is about $310/month -- used
$20K financed for 60 months at 3% is about $350/month -- new

nolefan1

I've been lurking on this site for many many months and I found it to be incredibly helpful. I've been keeping track of what people have paid for their CR-V SEs and it gave me a good baseline range.
I even read the confessions article, which actually stressed me out a bit. Who wants to face the wolves in order to buy a car? Well, we finally took the plunge and started shopping in earnest using the blast fax method. Let me say that it wasn't as easy as Edmund's or the Motley Fool suggested it would be, but it really wasn't that bad. You just have to stand your ground and contact a lot of places (>20 if possible and over a broad area). Some dealers really jerk you around, not itemizing their prices, forgetting that the car has their clear coat protectant, front mud flaps, and wheel locks (!! $400, 300, and 100, respectively). Others gave an OTD price that didn't include tax, tag title or destination- even though I had listed my tax rate and the fee schedule for registration etc. That wouldn't have been a big deal if they had just mentioned that the OTD price lacked tax etc. Instead they were deceptive and led me to believe that it was truly OTD.
I got several bids for a CRV-SE that were all within $50 of each other. I ended up with the following deal
$23500 price of car including destination charge
199 processing fee
--------------------------
Total $23699 not counting tax tag etc (and these will obviously vary based on where you live). my tax was ~700 and tag/title was $55

I was pretty happy with this price, especially since the invoice is approximately 23321 and destination has been described as non-negotiable and $515. And, most importantly, when I arrived to take delivery there was no funny business. They politely offered an optional extended warranty and I politely declined. They told me that I could purchase it up to 36k miles later from them or any one else, but that it would probably cost a little more and it couldn't be financed with my car loan if I bought it later. That's not a hard sell, that's just informing the customer. I signed the papers and drove away with my car 5 minutes later. We'll buy our next car from them (they don't know it, but probably in the next 6 months) because it was such a great experience.
Good luck to all of you potential buyers out there!

scottsdalecrv

Thanks Maferna and BlueWolf
I mentioned your deal with Tempe Honda and they agreed to match. Tax is lesser in Scottsdale.

The CRV I test drove had the PTTR problem. I will test drive the one that I am going to buy and it PTTRs as well, I will not buy it.
I will keep you posted.

wbwynn

Any accessories in your price? Are you in Florida?

Thanks

nolefan1

WBWynn,
No. I'm nolonger in the Sunshine state. Now we're in southwestern VA. The only accessory was a set of mud flaps. After we came home with the car I received an email from another dealer who had told me earlier in the day that there was no way she could come close to my best bid. They were quoting 25400 all inclusive OTD. Well, she changed her mind and was willing to meet the other guy's quote and throw in mudguards, wheel locks and a cargo tray for the back. Maybe she would have. i was just so turned off by the tone of her reply email telling me that she couoldn't give the car away that even if I had known I would have gotten the extra accessories from her I still would have purchased from the dealer that we used.
I initially requested quotes for a Honda alarm, but most people were charging 225-550 for it installed. A few even discouraged me from buying from the dealer at all, saying that I could get it for considerrably less from an aftermarket dealer. And, yes, the same people that were trying to charge $400 for clear coat protectant were also trying to sell the alarm for 550.
In my limited experience the dealerships who try to tag on extras on every vehicle are the ones who are least likely to want to deal.
Now, my father-in-law checked around for us in Jax (specifically on the West-side and at Steve Lucas). They were pretty quick to quote an OTD while standing in the parking lot that was pretty darn close to Edmunds TMV. They knew he wasn't in the market and that he was just trying to get a feel for the deals out there to help us out. I bet they'd probably be willing to work with you.

kcdoug

Downsizing wife's '99 Ody EX (140k miles) to CR-V SE (want the leather and heated seats and mirrors). She has to have another silver car - OK, in the SE, the Pewter - and of course in our area that is the most popular color. Internet/e-mail shopped dealers with my standard message that I'm ready to buy, hit me with your best shot for out the door w/o dealer installed options. Did not talk trade-in. Of the 4-dealers I e-mailed, 3 responded, all started with pricing of $24,500 - $24,700, including destination and admin. fees. One dealer that is just down the street from where I work with whom we've had good past experience with servicing and parts dept. started with $24,600 but didn't have in stock, but said would trade for it. I countered with $24,000 even and will try to talk them into throwing in the cargo net and mud flaps. Next day he comes back agreeing, I stop by, he initiates paperwork - no signature from me or deposit - and said would find the Pewter color and have me inspect and test drive before signing any paperwork. His finance guy said he could get me Honda finance for 4.25%, maybe 4%. All in all, I'm feeling optimistic b/c of past good service experience (and we didn't buy Ody from them, but had warranty problems that they went to bat for us on, and their parts guy sold me parts at substantial discount when we had a minor wreck - saved me about $300 compared to other dealers) - so if they trade for a good CR-V for me, I don't begrudge them the $200 or so extra that I'm paying compared to what some others have posted here. Time will tell....

motorcityscott

I went through Cars Direct about 3 weeks ago for a LX AWD and the Dealer where I picked it up was Friendly Honda. It was right around invoice and they charged a $160 doc fee I think it was. Very good experience with the dealership. Everything was ready and waiting for me and I was in and out in about an hour. Car was preped well and just the usual pitch (but not a hard sell pitch) for extended warranty, tire warranty etc.

Scott

wdaveo1

I would like to use CarsDirect, but I have a trade - I am guessing they don't handle trades, is that correct?

Dawn

wdaveo1

As you know, the local dealer is offering a CR-V EX at 3% over invoice. If I travel a couple of hours, I can get down to 1% over (not sure what they would give me for my trade).

My preference is to just deal with the local dealer but try to get him below the 3%. How do I do that? Do I just walk in and say "we would like to offer $xxx", or "so and so down state can get it for me for $xxx, how close can you get to that?"

Is there an appropriate way to communicate this without getting the dealer angry? Are they 'expecting' me to counter their first offer?

Should I offer 1% over invoice, or 1.5% over - or is that too low?

(Next closest dealer to me is 90 miles, and their price was better, but not good enough to warrant the trip down).

Any advice?

Thanks,

Dawn

dwynne

They do, but it does complicate things. You can expect a low number for your trade since you will likely be getting a low number for the new car. The dealer that sells you the new car will have to look at your trade before they can give you a firm price. I would expect less than KBB or Edmunds trade value on this kind of deal.

Dennis

dwynne

I would not worry about getting them angry, you are supposed to negotiate the best deal you can so sure you can counter their offer. If they are not dealing low enough on the new car (should be right at invoice on an EX) then just make them give you too much for your trade.

Shop other dealers and compare the bottom line: the difference between the new price less the trade allowance + dealer or doc fees.

Dennis

wdaveo1

They have already evaluated my trade ($10000) - which is not great, but probably fair. I have had trade offers from non-Honda dealers as low as $8000, so the $10000 makes me pretty happy.

I don't think I can get any more out of the trade, so the only thing left is the selling price. I could just accept what they offered (though it is a bit high), but if they expect me to counter offer, I want to do that if I can save a few hundred dollars.

Now, the dealers downstate haven't seen my trade and it is very possible they would offer less than the $10K, which is why I would like to try to work with this local dealer, but I want to get a good price for the car at the same time I am happy for them to make money (salesman has 5 kids!), I just want to strike an appropriate balance (especially since others are paying invoice for the EX's).

Dawn

dwynne

If you get "wholesale" pricing for a new truck (like close to invoice) then the dealer will expect you to accept "wholesale" for your trade. Look at KBB and here at Edmunds and see what your trade is worth "by the book" and see how that compares to what you are getting.

If it is a Honda that a Honda dealer could easily resell then you can expect more from them on a trade. If it is not something they will want to sell then they wholesale it out to another deal (one that sells that make or a small lot) or takes it to the auction. Unless they can sell it to someone at retail, none of these options will net the dealer much money if they give you any kind of decent trade allowance.

It is likely the dealer is allowing too much for your trade then making it up by not discounting the new truck as much as you would like. They have to make money (and will) on the deal so you have to decide what your trade is really worth and try to get that. You would probably be a lot better off selling it yourself, then you can get the new truck for invoice or less and not worry about it.

Dennis

kyfdx

Go back to the dealer that offered you 3% over invoice, and $10K for your van.. Tell them they have a deal if they come down $500 more...

If they take it, you have your trade-in price and 1% over..

Everyone goes home happy...

wdaveo1

So, theoretically, should a dealer be happy with 1% over? That is acceptable to me.

Dawn

dwynne

They get 3% of MSRP back from Honda as hold back. So on an CR-V EX w/auto that is $722. So they get that and whatever you pay them over invoice for the new truck. Of course, any dealer of doc fees and any options you have them put on. They also get anouther truck off their lot they don't have to pay interest on - and increase their sales number by one CR-V.

You are not there to make them happy, just get what you want for as little as possible :-)

Dennis

kyfdx

Posters here are reporting deals AT invoice...

Not everyone can find a deal like that, but it makes it more likely that your dealer will accept it...

You don't get what you don't ask for...

regards,
kyfdx

PS: Without reading this forum, I would be thrilled with what you have already been offered, so you aren't in bad shape, either way..

saabgirl

From Lia Honda in Enfield, CT:

Sale price $22,050 including destination
Add dealer fee, roof rack and wheel locks $22,400

Lia didn't have silver moss metallic at their Enfield store, but got one from another location for me. Then switched OE tires from Bridgestone to Goodrich. Didn't charge me add'l for either transaction.

I e-mailed five area dealerships asking for lowest acceptable price not including TTL on the exact car I wanted. Lia was first to respond (within 24 hrs). Two other dealerships responded, but with higher prices or with the caveat that there would be an additional cost for a car that wasn't on their lot or for changing OE tires to BFGs. Two other dealerships never gave me a firm price, one after phoning me to talk about my previous highly satisfactory relationship with the dealership. (Sure you've been great, but please tell me: "What is the lowest price you will accept for this vehicle?")

Got 4.25 financing from COMTrust Federal Credit Union.

I'm happy.

Two FYIs:

I started out looking for a compact PU to lug around me, my sporting gear and to function as a mobile man cave. Was finally scared off PUs by rising gas prices and observing that the "problems and solutions" threads were long and often frequented by owners whose mechanical expertise is way above mine. Sitting on a tail gate sucking down a beer has always seemed like the perfect ending to a day of fishing to me. But I'll get over it.

I don't know why dealerships won't respond to e-mail requests for a quote. At most, it takes 10 minutes to respond, especially for a CR-V that basically comes in vanilla, chocolate or strawberry. What have they got to lose?

staplesc1

I just bought a CRV 2005 2WD LX for $20,085 (including taxes and doc fees). I have one question. My car has 20 miles on it even though it is supposed to be "new". Is this normal? Or I am paying for a "floor model" or "test model" and I should get a discount because of this. THanks. THis is my first new car purchase.

kyfdx

If it had 120 miles, it might make me think, but I doubt you'd get anything extra off....

Somewhere around 500 miles is where they need to start discounting them...

Just my $0.02.. enjoy your new car..

regards,
kyfdx

dwynne

While we would all like to get "0 mile" cars when we buy new that does not happen as much as you would think. They have to drive them around the lot, folks take test drives, they get traded with other dealers when someone wants a different color, etc. Some dealerships will keep a "demo" car to take the bulk of the drives and our local Honda shop has a CR-V EX for the CR-V buyers. If someone wants to test drive an LX or SE then they get a new "0 mile" truck to drive - so a few miles get put on them.

I would not worry about 20, that is no big deal. Congrats on your first new truck!

Dennis

saabgirl

You're fine Staples. Mine had 42 miles on it when I got behind the wheel, because it was driven from a nearby dealership in Mass. to the dealership in Conn. Don't worry about it. Enjoy.

staplesc1

thanks all. i feel better now.

rroyce10

... **They get 3% of MSRP back from Honda as hold back** ....

You keep preaching this "holdback" thing ... it's not a profit center and never has been ... it's an amount of money the dealer gets from the manufacturer to "offset" the cost of the floor plan, which I might add they have to wait 90 to 150 days depending on how it falls in the quarter .....

You do the math ... 150 vehicles, average Honda store sits at $23,450 per copy, then figure a quarter point over prime per month, dealers are paying the floor plan when they receive the invoice, not the vehicle and that can be 7/15 days away -- where's the profit .?

Terry.

dwynne

where's the profit

Not my problem. I buy into the hold back every chance I get. Let the dealer overcharge the next person to make up for it. We are all adults in the finance office and no one is making either party sign anything they don't want to. Most folks over pay so badly I feel no pity for the poor car dealer when I hammer out a good deal. Some folks negotiate a good price then give it all back in the finance office in bloated interest rates, over priced add ons and questionable service contracts. Nope, don't feel bad for them at all.

The answer to the question IN CONTEXT was "how does the dealer make any money selling at invoice" - the answer is they have the hold back no matter what else.

As I posted to Dawn, "You are not there to make them happy, just get what you want for as little as possible :-) "

Dennis

rroyce10

...... In the meantime ... $10,0 is all the money on a Ody with 61k ...

Like Kyfdx has mentioned, work your deal from 1 to 3% over invoice and you'll do fine .....



Terry

rroyce10

........ It's also the quickest fastest way to get shown the door ...

If you want to help - fine, help .... but don't give people irresponsible information with a chip on your shoulder - it doesn't become you ..

Terry.

isellhondas

I've been biting my tongue here too but Terry is dead on. You continue to talk about holdback. Why don't you talk about OVERHEAD since you like to do this?

And, I, for one am tired of hearing from you how people "overpay". I doubt if there are any other business that operates on such slim profit margins!

Sounds like you feel a dealer should "overcharge" others so they can lose money on people like yourself!

kyfdx

1) Yes, dealers have overhead.. gross profit margin doesn't equal profit..

2) Holdback is designed to pay for flooplan

On the other hand....

A) The dealer's overhead is not my concern.. At least knowing the gross profit margin gives me an idea of what deal might be acceptable.. I want to pay the least amount possible, and also actually be successful in buying the car.

Holdback is a set percentage that is paid to the dealer, based on the price of the particular car being sold... It directly reduces his wholesale cost of that unit. It either increases revenue, or reduces expenditures, take your pick.. Whether you assign it to a specific expense (floorplan) or not, it does increase the dealer's gross profit margin on that unit.

I don't believe Dennis ever said you should bring up holdback during your negotiations... He was just responding to someone asking how a dealer could sell below invoice...

This forum works a lot better for explaining the nuts and bolts of pricing, than it does to actually prepare someone for the buying experience..

If it makes the rest of you feel better, here it is:

Don't ever bring up the term "holdback" in your negotiations with the dealer. It may cause him to blow a blood vessel.

regards,
kyfdx

dwynne

I don't believe Dennis ever said you should bring up holdback during your negotiations... He was just responding to someone asking how a dealer could sell below invoice...

Thanks - that is exactly the case.

Don't ever bring up the term "holdback" in your negotiations with the dealer. It may cause him to blow a blood vessel.

You mean like those two dealers just blew up? I guess you are right :-)

I am working a deal right now where I will get a new car below invoice (that must be into that thing which we can't mention) and they will give me more than Terry says they should for my trade. Call me nuts if I fail to take them up on it. They can figure out how to keep the lights on with the next deal

Dennis

isellhondas

I don't want customers to think about our overhead or about how much I get paid on a deal. By the same token I am just sick and tired of hearing how much evil profit a dealer makes from holdback.

chiefjs

Consumer Reports shows the holdback in their vehicle pricing reports.

They recommend negotiating UP from the bottom line (which in the dealer holdback) not down from the MSP. CU says you should not pay any more than 4-8% above that price.

You will pay the higher percentage for vehicles in demand.

dwynne

Hey kyfdx, shoot me an e-mail. It looks like I may be heading to the Commonwealth this weekend.

Thanks,
Dennis

isellhondas

Well, all of that fine information dispensed by CR is interesting to read and helpful in many cases. they, however sell magazines and not cars.

You are correct...cars in short supply and high demand will command a higher price. It's always the MARKET that determines pricing in the end.

Same applies to houses and lots of other commodity items.

rroyce10

... **It directly reduces his wholesale cost of that unit. It either increases revenue, or reduces expenditures, take your pick.. Whether you assign it to a specific expense (floorplan) or not, it does increase the dealer's gross profit margin on that unit** .....

Sorry Kyfdx, but thats a totally incorrect statement .. you musta been asleep during finance 101 ..... there's no 2 ways about it unless your running a Kool-Aid stand .... dealers are looking at the total cost, because that's exactly what it is, you can't margin units because you don't know what the "tomorrow" cost is .... they will do a wash-out at the end of the month and usually holdback doesn't even cover 90% of the balance, because it's a daily incurred cost.

A better way to explain it, home builders ...... build 10 homes - first house sells in 25 days, lender has only charged the builder 25 days of finance (floorplan), next house sells in 33 days - the same, now the 3rd house is sold in 49 days - the finance cost is twice what the first house was .. house 4 sells in 66 days ---- and on and on it goes ... by the time the 10th home is sold, the home builder is paying for the last 3 ..... and none of this is even reflective of the "cost to build" ........... get it.?



Terry

saabgirl

Some people get off on a rollicking negotiation, but I think most of us have neither the time or the inclination to have serial confrontations with sales people. This site offers the information you need to arrive at a number you are willing to pay for a car. Have that # in your head? Good. That means you're able to separate great deals, from good deals, from bad deals.

After I got to that point, I then sent out an e-mail to Internet managers at five dealers describing exactly what I wanted and asking for the lowest sales price they would accept sans TTL for that vehicle. Once I had the low bid (and it looked very good based on my at-home research), I confirmed my understanding with the dealer by phone and by e-mail before venturing out for a sit down.

When I sat down with the Internet manager, I was there to do the paper work, not negotiate. We'd already arrived at an acceptable price.

If that price fell apart, I was prepared to walk, because I had a fallback dealer to go to. Using the e-mail approach, even the high bid was still pretty good. But if the whole thing fell apart, I was prepared to repeat the process with a fallback brand of vehicle. If that fell apart, I'd wait until the 4thQ when dealers are eager to sell $40K cars for $16 because they came off a 3-year lease.

No need for drama. I was sending out e-mails, not driving all over creation to different dealerships. But in my case the dealer honored his price and 20 minutes later I'd bought my CR-V.

Remember that the number you're building is sales price -- i.e., the dealer's lowest acceptable price for the vehicle plus delivery plus any applicable fees. You want to put that all in one number and confirm it. This prevents a dealer from giving you a below-invoice price by tacking on the delivery and other fees later. There goes your great deal. Title, tax and registration are a given, so ignore them until the sit down.

Finally, if you've done your homework and bought a car, stop fretting and drive. Your loud-mouthed brother-in-law won't tell you that his "below invoice price" looks good only because the dealer hit him separately for delivery and other fees. And if he asks what you paid, the answer is always, "Oh, I got it below invoice."

rroyce10

... **Finally, if you've done your homework and bought a car, stop fretting and drive. Your loud-mouthed brother-in-law won't tell you that his "below invoice price" looks good only because the dealer hit him separately for delivery and other fees. And if he asks what you paid, the answer is always, "Oh, I got it below invoice."** ..

Good post.! ...

The reason why most people drone on and on, is because someone just posted that they bought an ABC or an XYZ vehicle for $200 less then they "think" they can purchase the same vehicle for (whether real or not) ...

The dealer in Seattle might not be able to match the price in Oakland because of inventory, maybe the guy in Kansas City can't match the price in Tulsa or the guy in Orlando can't beat the price in Atlanta ........ but then again, these are usually the same folks that pay $500 for a new golf club that can be bought for $350 or pay $2,900 more in closing costs then the guy down the street ........ so what price glory.?



Terry

sky23213

Paid 24888, plus tax, etc. I had it calculated 140 over invoice plus the accessories according the Honda sheet. 525 for fog lights, 248.00 for wood trim (got it yesterday actually, looks sooo nice!) and 137.90 for the gold leterring.That dealer apparently had a little more expensive service dept, so on the paper he had to put it at a dollar under invoice - didn't matter to me - we had agreed on the above number all included by e-mail.

sky23213

Exactly my thoughts, saabgirl and rroyce. My post was a reply to a message from 06/18. But u guys are absolutely correct.
Anyway, at this time of year shouldn't be hard to negotiate to invoice. Good argument is that in a few months this is going to be the last year's model.

blueboyjocks

I plan to buy the 2006 CRV when they hit the lot in Sept/Oct. even there will be not much change, if any. My question, can I bargain so I don't pay the sticker price? Or should I just get the 2005 model with bargain price (at least invoice $)? Do you think it's worth it to pay MSRP for 2006 model? I will do my purchase using online dealers quote. Decision....decison.... :confuse: Any input is appreciated.

kyfdx

Wait until Fall and pay MSRP for an '06... or buy an '05 now for invoice?

I vote for buying the '05 now...

kyfdx

Sorry Kyfdx, but thats a totally incorrect statement

But.. I totally disagree...

If.. the manufacturer rebates you $750 (holdback) on a particular unit, after it is sold... then that lowers your cost on that unit... regardless of what the payment is designed to cover... That is Finance 101..

As I stated before... Gross profit doesn't equal net profit.. Car dealers have many expenses, and floorplan is one of them.. I don't worry about how much the car dealer is making... just whether I'm getting the best price that I can... Whether the dealer makes $5000 or loses $500, if I got the best price, then I'm happy..

But.... I get it... don't mention holdback.. Heck.. I don't even mention invoice.. I'd just as soon they think I'm a pinhead, who only knows one number... The price I'm willing to pay..

TGIF!!

regards,
kyfdx

lumbar

I don't see the point in bringing up the issue of holdback in negotiations either.

But does it or does it not reduce the the dealer's cost of doing business? If the former, semantic issues as to whether it is "profit" strike me as something of a quibble. Above the line addition, or below the line subtraction, the end result is very similar.

wdaveo1

Well, I got my local dealer down to 1% over invoice (from 3% supplier special price). It's still more than others have been paying, and more than I would have paid had I shopped Detroit, which is 2 hours away.

Got the trade value I was looking for, 1% over invoice - I'm satisfied.

Deposit is refundable, as the vehicle is just off the truck and not prepped yet. I will have a chance to drive it on Monday to make sure there is no PTTR or extraordinary vibration. Anything else I should look for?

Would really like the light-colored fabric scotchguarded - is there a better way to do it than through the dealer (or doing it by myself - as I do not trust myself to do it properly). Does anyone else offer the service cheaper than the dealers $595 protection package?

Thanks for all the advice...

Dawn

rroyce10

....... $10,000 for the trade and $250ish over invoice ....?

You did fine .... $595 for a what.? .. call the dealer and tell him you don't want the protection package, so don't apply it -- if they do, you wonta tacka the el caro ... you can get scotchguard anywhere for $50 or less and get the whole deal for $99 somewhere .....




Terry.

kyfdx

Congratulations...!!!

I agree with Terry.. You can get all of that done by a detail shop for under $200....

Enjoy your new car... sounds like a great deal..

regards,
kyfdx

rroyce10

...**If.. the manufacturer rebates you $750 (holdback) on a particular unit, after it is sold... then that lowers your cost on that unit...**

Let me run this by you one more time, since you've been using your 9 year old paperboy to do your taxes lately .....

**You do the math ... 150 vehicles, average Honda store sits at $23,450 per copy, then figure a quarter point over prime everyday per month, dealers are paying the floor plan when they receive the invoice, not the vehicle and that can be 7/15 days away -- where's the profit .?**

I know your saving money using your paperboy .. but try using a CPA next time or maybe even an Abacus might help ya, even toes work ..l.o.l.........................................



Terry.

kyfdx

I never said it was net profit...

But..if they rebate you any money, due to you selling a specific unit, it lowers your cost on that particular unit..... If they give you a bonus of $500 per unit, once you sell 300 units per month... that lowers the cost per unit by $500... If they give you double secret probation money (Animal House was on last night) of $300 per unit, that lowers the cost of each unit by $300...

AND... if they give you $750 of holdback per unit... that lowers the cost of each unit by $750....

No matter where your CPA puts that amount.... and no matter what your expenses are.... It is $750 you wouldn't have otherwise, if they didn't rebate it...

Repeat after me..... I never said it was profit...

You are still my favorite car dealer, though.... :surprise:

regards,
kyfdx