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The local dealer (dont want to name him since its not allowed) gave me a quote of 21,467 (includes destination). Adding the 7.75% sales tax (1,670) and other fees(268.75) total comes to 23,391. I know that the other fees are for registration and such and are similar across other dealers.
This seems reasonable since the invoice price on edmunds excluding destination is 21,753. I seem to be getting about 800 below invoice.
Can you please comment if I am looking at this right or is there some mistake in my computation?
Appreciate all your comments.
$300 under invoice - purchased late July - Thomason Honda
If you paid $160 for the roof rack and $40 for the splash guards you did well. If you paid more for those, then the calculations are wrong!!!
Finally decided on the CRV after debating between the Escape, Rav4, and the CRV. Test drove all three; felt the CRV was the best fit for the family (we are previous Accord owners) did my research on Edmunds, CR, and carbuyingtips.com. We wanted the CRV-SE, the leather and heated seats are extra amenities we felt were worth the extra $. From my Internet research, I knew that invoice was 23,831 (incl. $515 dest). All prices I quote here include the $515 destination. Realized that Honda factory to dealership has a 3% holdback, so I set my sights on paying 23,831, figuring this was fair to the salesman and myself.
I solicited quotes from the Seattle area dealers (Honda of Bellevue, Lynwood, Seattle, Kirkland, Redmond, South Tacoma, Hinshaw Honda,). All quotes were at least $500-1500 over what I wanted to pay. Many of the dealers told me that (lied) the invoice price was 24,331. Honda of Bellevue would not quote me a price via email.
My goal here was to negotiate via email so that I would not have to do the dreaded 3-hour haggle in the dealership office. I decided to seek quotes outside the Seattle metro area, and emailed dealers in Bellingham, Burlington (Sims), Vancouver (WA), and Portland. Finally I received quotes at my price (23,831, Wilsonville Honda), and below (23,635, Thomson Honda). Both were in the Portland area, 3 hrs away.
Armed with this quote, I emailed back to my local dealers, saying I had an invoice quote, and would they match it.
Trade-in issues. I wanted to trade in my Ford Explorer, and I was going to have to deal with that part of the haggle process.
Honda of Seattle said they would meet my invoice price, and I decided to come in and talk. Long story short, they really low-balled my trade by $1000. I now figured out that if they are going to sell me a car at invoice, they will try to make it back by cutting the trade in value. I left slightly disappointed, but better informed.
Hinshaw Honda in Auburn was the next attempt. I received an invoice quote (23831) from them. I sent a few emails back and forth requesting details on all fee’s (tax, lic, doc.) that I would be charged. I did receive a detailed quote listing all fee’s (Tax 9.1%, Documentation: $35, and lic and reg: 145.00). They asked that I bring the invoice quote from the other dealer. Drove to the dealer. Went thru the trade-in evaluation. Again I was offered about $500 less than what my trade was worth. During the negotiations, they tried to tack on various fee’s (detail fee 300, prep fee 200, etc) I was armed with the email print out from the Internet manager showing all fees (tax, lic/reg, doc.). They did pull those off. They did not have the color I wanted on the lot (Sand/Ivory or Pewter/Black). They said they could bring one over from another dealer BUT, it would have extra add-ons already in place. Front mud flaps @ $166.00, and wheel locks @ $100.00. They would not take them off. I was not going to pay $266.00 for two items I can get at online for $80.00 total. Left slightly discouraged, but more informed. The “other dealer” add-ons was a trick I had not read about.
Lesson learned: Make sure they have the car you want on the lot.
In the next few days I decided to sell my old car on my own and simplify the buying process. Emailed a few more dealers to find who had a SE in Pewter/Black (hard color to find) or a Sand/Ivory.
Sims Honda in Burlington had a Sand/Ivory SE on the lot and would match my 23,831. Got all fees in writing (tax, docs, lic/reg). Drove to the dealership. Everything actually went quite smooth. Dealt with the Internet manager (the person I was dealing with via email). 20 min test drive. 30 mins in the sales office. The one line item I got in the sales office that was different from the email quote was a B&O tax at $112.00 (.048%) I didn’t know about this one. I agreed to it (now I know differently, they can not pass this onto you without your permission). I paid 1% less sales tax than in my home county (8.1 vs. 9.1). So with the B&O tax, I paid 8.6% in taxes.
Final prices paid: 23830, lic/reg: 170, doc: 35, tax: 2055.
The CRV-SE seems to be a hot car in the NorthWest. Many dealers did not have any SE’s on their lot, and only a few more 05’s arriving in August before the 06’s arrive in September. I was not interested in the 06’s as the only changes (I could find) were a red/ivory and blue/black model offered in a SE trim.
Accessories: We did solicit prices for Fog Lights (installed) from all the dealers. The prices ranged from $495 (South Tacoma) to $661 (Honda of Seattle). I paid $570 for the lights installed. This is probably about $80 too much, but I was happy with the sales service I received. I could have got these on line for 231.00, but the installation is way more that I wanted to do.
I ordered other accessories thru www.handa-accessories.com. Cargo tray, all weather floor mats, cargo cover, and cargo net. I was very happy with their prices and quick shipping.
Be prepared, do your homework, walk-out if need be, get all prices in writing.
Wow, your buying experience sounds like and extended version of mine
Anyone getting any better or similar deals in So Cal?
Right now, with gas prices as they are, the cars like that Explorer are almost impossible to sell. The dealers don't want them and they end up a "no sale" at the auctions. If another dealer really paid 1300.00 more than the first place, it sounds like someone made a mistake. It happens. That "mistake" will likely be sitting on the lot six months from now.
It's always the market that determines pricing.
for $23250. marked down from 27k. Then I
drove the CRV SE on sale for $23966. marked
down from $25765. I thought the sale prices
were pretty fair, so I tried to get a deal
on my trade, 02 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4
35k basic equip. KBB-$14295. NADA-$16900.
Settled for $15500. and decided on the CRV.
So trade diff. ended up $8466. plus tax.
Finish paper work on Monday, told the salesman I might change my mind over the
weekend, the Accord price is pretty good.
And I luv it, just can't carry much stuff.
Hmmm
- After being given a loan rate quote of 5.04% from a finance manager over the phone the day before we came in to sign the papers, the closer quoted me a higher rate when we came in. He told me I should have told I him I had already spoken to the manager about the lower rate.
-The loan documents I signed were for the wrong car (incorrect VIN) and sale price so I had to come back later that day to sign new papers.
-They didn't fax paperwork to my insurance agent to get new insurance until 2 days after we drove away with the new car.
- They kept us waiting for 1.5 hours when we came in for the inspection sticker.
- They never returned calls if it didn't have anything to do with getting money from us.
I also found it ironic how they tried to scare us into buying an extended service for an outrageous amount of money when the reason we bought the Honda was for its reliability. By the way those extended plans are way overpriced - anybody out there considering getting one should bargain. We didn't get it in the end even though they shaved $500 off the price.
I am glad we buy cars only every few years because I never want to have to deal with that dealership again. I am going to get it serviced elsewhere.
When the new Accord just came out, Temple VTEC dynoed an EX with manual. They got something close to 150 hp at the wheels. They concluded that Honda under rated the K24, which in reality gets about 180 hp.
The Accord and the Element have identical engines, CR-V has a slightly different head. And TSX has a higher compression full VTEC version of the same engine making 200 hp, according to Honda. Anyone who drives it will realize that there is more than 200 horses under that hood.
By the way, this is a great board. I learned a lot about the negotiating process, not to mention I will use the HandA site for wheel locks and mats and things that I can "install" myself - I'm even considering screwing on my own front splash guards!
Nancy
Auction results still matter however. A dealer won't want to take a skinny deal AND pay top dollar for a trade in.
I got my credit score yesterday and all three bureau have three different number.
My score is transunion 730 equifax 780 experian 760.
Funny thing is I was looking three different reports inquiries and wireless company on this year and credit card company last year used only transunion.
Does any one know the lenders like honda financial services, eloan and capital one uses??
thanks :confuse:
I got my credit score yesterday and all three bureau have three different number.
My score is transunion 730 equifax 780 experian 760.
Funny thing is I was looking three different reports inquiries and wireless company on this year and credit card company last year used only transunion.
Does any one know the lenders like honda financial services, eloan and capital one uses??
thanks
I don't think you have to worry about anything. Your scores are within Honda's requirements for the advertized rates. Unfortunatley there are no special finance rates on the CR-V at this point. There was 2.9% APR for the last two weeks of March of this year.
I know this is in response to a fairly old posting but I am in the market for a CRV SE in the Phoenix area and would appreciate it if you can give me the breakdown of the numbers on your SE purchase. I am basically looking for the out the door price. Thanks a lot !
I know they made money off of me (there is a 707 dollar dealer holdback, and who knows what they really make off accessories), although the sales people tried to tell me they only made 400 - RIGHT!) .....
Hold your ground!!!! (I am going to buy all season mats/cargo tray/cargo cover myself, XM was too involved and I read there are issues with the roof rack installation)... Oh, and I didn't even ask for the splash guards/wheel locks, seems that most dealers put that stuff on expecting you to pay for it, and if you tell them to take it off because you don't want it, they will leave it on and not charge, becuase it costs them more in labor to remove.
Renee
Thanks.
Just thought I'd let you know that the Honda dealers are starting to deal..right now. I just bought an 05 EX auto for 22050, that might not sound like a deal, but I got the roof rack, All season mats, cargo tray, wheel locks and mudguards included. If I subtract what I would have paid for those accessories from H and A. I figure I paid about 21577 plus ttl for the CRV. I may have been able to do better but I am happy.
Texas Hill Country
The highlights are that:
1) Older than 2003 or greater than 6k miles, only $100 deductible plans will be offered.
2) More than 36 months old or 36k miles no longer eligible for plan.
3) 2004 or newer with less than 6k miles still can wait till Sept for same existing terms.
Anyone have further information on this? Or is this another hard sell tactic?
Thanks
Never buy the overpriced warranty from the dealer. You can buy an extended warranty anytime by yourself from warranty direct. It will cost the same if you buy from WD now or six months from now. Also, when I bought my CRV LX and the finance manager tried to sell me the extended warranty, everything he said was covered is actually covered by my auto insurance. Why pay for it twice? They try to scare you to prepare for every possible emergency.
My advice, look into buying your onw extended warranty. You can research this on edmunds.com
CRVchick
Read the warranty gold fiasco, Warranty direct operates on the same principle: re-insured insruance plan. I woul dsuggest for everyone to stay away from these off shore companies that only have a mail box ect. for an address in the US. If you really feel that you need extended warranty go with the manufacturer backed one, Honda care in this instance.
This forum has helped a lot in understanding the tricky business of buying a car !
Iam going to put the learning into practice now. I have decided to buy a new 2005 CR-V.
Location - California.
Vehicle type - 2005 LX , 2WD or 4WD
Day 1: As most people in the forum suggested to get quotes from multiple dealers on the internet first, i did so.
Heres the first quote i got :
2WD LX auto -> 18572.00 ( plus tax and license) includes dest charge.
I thought i knew all about buying, but iam stuck now as what to do next ?
The quote is less than the invoice price on edmunds !
Does this mean its good and take it ?
What other hidden costs are involved in addition to the price thats quoted ?
How much can i bargain it to without having to kill the deal
Any help is appreciated.
what should i do next ?
I will be posting more updates as i go along..till i drive in the new car !
Lew.
Also, no trade-ins involved.
Clean deal.
I don't know about asking for less.. though a few hundred wouldn't hurt...
But, if you accept, make sure that they know that you like the price, but won't pay one dime more, except for taxes and government charges for licensing.. If you can achieve that, you'll have an astounding deal..
Watch for document fees, dealer prep fees, anything with an acronym.. etc.. You can stop down at your local BMV or DMV and give them the model and MSRP, and selling price, and they should be able to give you the exact tax and licensing charges... The only thing above that might be a title fee and temporary tag fee...
That selling price + tax/license + $100 should be the most it comes to...
Good luck..
kyfdx
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The typical "out the door" pricing components in Northern California are:
1) base price
2) destination charge
3) license & DMV fees
4) taxes
5) document preparation fee
Watch out when the Finance Manager gets you in their office and tries to sell you the Honda Care Extended Warranty and Alarm system. Both very high margin profit items for them. If you buy any accessories ask if includes installation charges, even something as simple as wheel locks.
Good luck and enjoy your CRV. Remember you are the driver during and after the deal. If you feel yor are getting pressured or the run around follow your intuition and walk away from the dealer. You always have your back up #2 offer to go to. It is still a great vehicle regardless of who you buy it from.
RJ
Cargo Cover $259, $179, $138
Cargo Net $95, $42, $30
Woodgrain Panel $350, $199, $142
Splash Guards $102.70, $63, $37
Door Edge Guards $152, $95, $40
Moonroof Visor $227, $121, $88
Wheel Locks $98, $59, $30
Can you believe the price for the Cargo Net? What a ripoff! The Wheel Locks also look ridiculously high.
Even though I am not handy at all, I think I can install the Cargo Cover and Net myself based on the instructions from HandA. I can get a local mechanic to put on the Splash Guards and Wheel Locks, so the only things I may buy from the dealer are the Woodgrain Panel (looks tricky to get it on straight without scratching anything), the Door Edge Guards (instructions say not for do-it-yourselfers) and the Moonroof Visor. Do you agree with this strategy?
I bought the wheel locks on ebay for less than $20.00, the cargo cover and splash guards from Honda Bloomfield on ebay and I just transferred the moonroof visor from her 2002 Civic.
I wouldn't even bother with the door edge guards from Honda. If you really want them, they can be purchased from any auto supply store and just be pushed on the door.
Buying accessories from the dealer is just too expensive. The only thing they did was to install the foglights and I included them in the purchase price of the car ($22467).
Phil
Thanks for all the replies. I think iam making progress with your help here.
I got several quotes, and clearly see the different prices.
The lowest i got for 2WD LX is 18400.
Armed with lowest quote in hand iam asking others to beat it.
They would like to see the proof ( email quote from the lowest quoting dealer), and cliam that they will beat it.
Is it ok to forward one dealer's email quote to another ? Do they have internal agreements between themselves ? or they treat them all like dog-eat-dog ..!
Thanks,
Otherwise, your e-mail might get bounced back to the first dealer.. and you might find yourself without any deal at all...
If you think the second dealer is serious about beating it... print out the e-mail and take it down there with you....
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You won't see the actual difference because the bump in the HP is from a new way of measuring it, not from the change in the engine.
An actual 10 HP increase, that only shows as 6 HP with the new SAE standards... but, this is not the same exact engine as the CR-V.
I assumed the same thing that you did.....
regards,
kyfdx
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