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Comments
Chill out - life is too short to stress over this stuff! :shades:
Words to live by.
The CRD was my work vehicle. Bought it for all the obviuos reasons. My wife drives low miles on a Magnum RT and prefers an older Cherokee we have. So the RT is trade-in bait (loss of value not too bad) and the CRD replaces the RT that is in the garage most of the time. It can rotate between my garage and the dealership garage and an occasional outing ( 3rd position )
Ouch! Looks like that dealer could give you their car at cost. The average price for a used 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD in the US is $24k. The lowest priced one on the Trader is $18,500. So they will make a very handsome profit. Too bad you could not take it on vacation to CA or TX. They cannot get enough to satisfy the demand. Good luck with your new ride.
TSB 18-023-06 has produced smoother transmission shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 gears and thus far, my shudder at 53mph and 62mph can not be duplicated after 150 miles and two days of testing. I'm not prepared to declare victory - but I'm excited as it drives like an all new CRD right now.
Mine is an '05 CRD Sport built July 20, 2005.
As for trade in value, I traded in a 2004 Honda Element EX for this with 19,000 miles and 18 months of service on it and only took a $4000 hit (not really a hit considering the use I got). In Indiana, the trade in value is not subject to sales tax on the new vehicle, so my $16k trade was just shy of $17k value, so now only a $3000 hit from what I paid.
So the Honda only depreciated 15% in 1.5 years and it was mainly useage depreciation - it was like money in the bank. I will share that it too had many mechanical problems and bugs that needed worked out, but eventually it got fixed under warranty. Things like replacing the entire front transaxel assembly :surprise: .
I went to a Toyota dealer just to play around with the FJ Cruiser. I got their best value trade in offer on my CRD (with no intention of ever doing it) and it was just above black book value. Approximately 45% below my well negotiated purchace price - I was like - "your crazy, all you have to do it put my Jeep up on that elevated rotating pedastal of yours out on the street and put the word DIESEL on the windshield and it's gone. I get 30mpg, your FJ cruiser gets 17." The guy just smiled.
Their offers, or best values, are stupid - but I was happy I had my fun.
Dealers especially like to deal with customers who dislike the brand they are driving. When a vehicle comes in with less than 12,000 miles and less than complementary about the brand they are driving, that's called a slam dunk buyer. When you go into a place and they can positively say they will give you X dollars wit out even seeing your vehicle, that sends lots of red flags up for me. No dealer sells at a loss! Not even a YUGO took the "drop like a rock" that you said was the very best deal you could get.
I don't disagree with you that I am "Farout" Honestly I just can not afford to sell, trade, or give away this vehicle. I have a budget and if I overspend on the transportation budget that something else gets shorted.
In all seriousness my wife and I prayed before we bought this vehicle, and unless we jumped the gun and got our message really misunderstood, I believe this vehicle is what I am to have. I am sure some think praying about buying a vehicle is pretty Farout, and I am "Farout"
In all honesty Hunydia has made some grate improvements, and I think you will enjoy your new SUV. Good luck.
Farout
N2D
5,200 miles and happy. Blew his nose yesterday and the flutter appeared, but gas mileage improved.
Farout
Farout
Farout
My 05 Liberty does not have the overhead digital display so I have to manaully calculate the fuel usage.
For some reason I cannot find an affordable aftermarket scanner that is 100% compatible with the Liberty. The Scan Guage II ( http://pureenergysystems.com/store/Scan_Gauge/ ) looked like a winner but said the Libery diesel did not report the fuel information. Pretty much a bummer as it was one device that was under $200. $165 to be exact
Has anyone found an affordable display for a Liberty ??? :confuse:
That was cool, 4 months after storing the manual in the hall closet, it has finally found its home. Thanks!
I think when I called NAPA they had a part that matched. If not $37. is not near as bad as $120. for the labor they want to change it for you!
I went to Shell Rotella 5-40 w, because I can get this shell for $15.32 a gallon where Mobil 1 0-40w was $8.97 a quart. Not only is it $5.14 a quart less, I can find it almost everywhere. So now I get the dealer to do the oil change and save about $38.
Someone might just see this post and give you an additional parts # for the water?sep filter.
Farout
I have the skid plates, and I am glad we do. If you intend to do other than city folks driving, do not buy the longer oil filter, even if you have the skid plates. However I don't recall ever having someone post about an oil filter being punctured..... yet.
Farout
Farout
On the highway I can get 32+ if I keep the RPM around 1900-1950. As you cross the 2000 RPM barrier the mpg starts to decline sharply. I drove from NY to UP Michigan (1500 miles one way) Going up I kept it around 2K and got 32-34 mpg. On the way back I went mostly 75 mph which was about 2100-2150 RPM and only got 26-27.
You really have to feather the gas pedal or cruise control buttons to get the perfect RPM. With 3 kids and a Hitch Haul I can go 68 mph at 1950 RPM, which resulted in the best MPG with my driving style.
There is not enough data on the aging of the CRD engine.
It's cheaper to get a new engine or a rebuilt one instead of changing the vehicle. What seems to wear are components from the injection system more than the body or transmission. In fact, most issues on this truck are related to Bosch
I am happy with my ScanGuage because I bought it for my other car. I doesn't read fuel pressure on the car either because the car does not put out the data. It was not supposed to work on the CRD because the data stream randomly quits. But it would work, sometimes, for hours at a time reading speed, water temp, input air temperature, rpm, voltage, turbo boost and fuel flow. Got a lot of good readings to learn about the engine (such as maximum boost is a healthy 23 lbs).
After the TSBs were applied to the ECM and TCU the ScanGuage no longer reads any output from the CRD! It still reads and, I assume, clears error codes on the CRD, but that is it.
CREDIT TO REGGIE
Discussing the TC issues
"Report it to the NHTSA as a safety defect. Say something like almost L.O.S.T. control while driving. I figure if everyone does this they will be forced to recall it. Same goes for ball joints."
When the TC dies, so does the vehicle, when it happens it won't move leaving us stuck in traffic very suddenly when the traffic is moving.
Please everybody who has had the TC crap out or gone into limp mode due to it or even the EGR, write a complaint to the NTSB.
It could save a life
It could force DC to fix this stuff for good and free.
link title
1)Are they the same?
2)How can you tell if your vehicle is equipt with Trac-Lok
I need to choose the proper gear lubes for the differental, which I believe one first needs to know what they have.
Thanks
We made the same trip with her car in which mormally gets 30mpg gas and it got around 25 mpg and was constatly down shifting and on the way back your foot had better been on the break or you would die.
About half way back she was asking me when she could get a deisel
Farout
Farout
Farout
I thought it was screw-up on the computer, but maybe there is something to this altitude thing...
Unfortunately my recent trip to Colorado didn't give me better mileage in the mountains. I still got decent mileage, but not noticeably better.
From reading all these posts I'm amazed at how much range of fuel mpg there is for different owners. I seem to be pretty much in the middle, which is funny to me because I'm driving it very sedately and I managed to get the EPA rating on my Civic Hybrid, which not many people do.
All these parameters are defined by the emissions regulations of the country where we live.
I have no idea how the ECU could handle an add-on kit that would extend the duration of injection pulses or the pressure of the pump since it sets itself according to the lambda sensor signal (total oxygen content in the burnt gas). Is there something to be desired? Probably a lighter vehicle using more composite materials and renewable energy :shades: