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To my knowledge there is only one case on the local web that's been mirrored to several other forums complaining about a defective manual transmission. This is a single shot thing, and it concerns my ***** dealership :confuse:
What are the preliminary symptoms of the broken pump? We are supposed to have a set of proportional solenoid valves that can give more or less hydraulic pressure to the clutches making a softer coupling. When I leave home in the morning I have a cold transmission, my eyes are 1/2 open and there is a narrow steep ramp in front of me with very little space between the side view mirrors (mine has to be folded) and two concrete walls. I then rely on the TC not to go backwards and I can even hear the 'sssssssssound' of the clutch. It also locks well at idle speed and keeps the truck from going backwards (when there is no black ice).
Does yours behave the same way when you stop on a ramp?
Farout
Farout
I do not understand what a "Gatorback" is, what it it?
Farout
Farout
Have you asked your dealer to start the Lemon Law return for you? In some states you must send a certified letter with the information, and stating you want the Lemon Law return policy to start their investigation.
In the end you will pay about $.50 cents a mile for the miles driven. Then the refund in your case because it's paid off will come to you. The $ .50 is a killer if you have more than 10,000 miles it might not be worth it depending on what you paid for it.
After 5 times in the shop for the cruse control not working right we talked to the dealer and the zone rep instructed us how it works in Missouri. We felt the cruse control might seem too minor, so we did not go through with it.
Farout
I did use the CRD as trade on my new vehicle but I haven't delivered it yet since it isn't repaired. Also, Chrysler has fouled up the title process so the title is still in my name. I have a window of opportunity to possibly keep the vehicle and pay the delaership its trade-in value if I think I am better off with the lemon law. I'm not sure what I am going to do. The Lemonlawyer did say he has gotten Manufactorers to make restituion to vehicle owners after they traded as well. We will see where it goes.
Someone else asked about the symptoms of transmission failure? In my vehicle it would randomly shudder when it was downshifting from 2nd to 1st. It would only be momentary to the point that you weren't really sure if you ran over some rough pavement or there was a problem. I had this happen for a week or more very sporatically. Again - I didn't think anything was wrong but just couldn't quite be sure. Finally it locked up in motion under load going up a hil during a downshift. The vehicle came to a screeching halt and I jerked forward vilantly. The car behind me almost rearended me. They also said I was smoking coming up the hill but I never saw it. This vehicle has been pampered and never been off road. Hope this helps.
My friend: I really hope that you send the last paragraph of post 7223 to the national safety people...
You could have lost your life or could have been crippled due to the manufacturers negligence in dealing with this problem.
I feel that a general recall should be issued to address this problem. If all that it takes is a pump or even a replacement transmission, DCX should Take the cheap way out and repair ALL of them.
God? Will I be next?? LK
:confuse: CC: my lawyer
Nescosmo... Look under the liberty just behind the left front wheel. A plate on the side of the transmission will tell you what you have. Mine says 462 in large numbers.
New2diesel...Which transmission does yours have?
Best of luck friends...LK
Also, what state and area of that state do you live in? I'm just curious because of the harsh conditions you describe so often.
So you guys are the experienced owners -- what should I know and be careful about? Whats my best bet for the best MPG? Is there something I can do for better MPG?
Thx in advance ...
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Be careful on doing these re flashes. Perhaps if your not having a problem and all runs good leave well enough alone.
When you find a good CRD tec stay with that dealer and praise the tec for his good work, and remember to thank the Lord too.
The price you paid seems very good. I would not use any additives except in the winter. Good luck.
Farout
My 2005 CRD Limited does not have a tow package but has the RFE462. Are there any real differences or is it just a different number for the same trans? :confuse: :confuse:
I took a quick look under a Hemi pickup and the transmission pans look the same. In the world of Chrysler that used to mean a lot. It might be that the only real difference between the two transmissions is the bell housing is different in the CRD to mate with the VM engine.
I just might call a transmission shop to see if they might know.
What seems to be the EGR issue?
Farout
Most men do not read the Owners Manual, which if you have not had time to do so would be a big help in answering a lot of questions.
Farout
I would recommend synthetic 5W-40, which is specifically listed in the owner's manual. 0W-40 seems to be the source of some problems, though there is disagreement on this board about that. You may be aware that bigger diesels generally use a heavier 15W-40 oil. The owner's manual doesn't list 15W-40 as acceptable oil, and apparently the engine manufacturer says not to use it. The issue with 15W-40 seems to be cold flow properties and in Miami I don't think that would ever be an issue. However, if you use something not recommended in the manual then you take the risk. I would stick to 5W-40 synthetic with a diesel rating. I'm currently using Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 in mine and it's quite happy. The same from Mobil is fine too but is harder to find in most areas and often costs more, with no apparent benefits. In my area Walmart has Rotella-T.
I disagree with the advice to replace your tires. I have the stock Wrangler ST's on mine with no problems, even in snow, ice, and dirt road use. I think some people use these Jeeps in much harsher conditions than I do (farout, sounds like you have quite a driveway!) and for them better tires may be needed. I doubt you're going to be testing the limits in the Miami area so unless you're doing offroading in mountains I wouldn't worry about the stock tires. Just keep them at or a few PSI above the recommended cold tire pressure. When the tires wear out I would definitely shop around, but that should be at least 30,000 miles away.
The CRD engine seems to be sensitive to fuel quality and cetane rating. Try to find a local station with premium diesel that your CRD likes and stick with it. BPAmoco "premium diesel" seems like a good one. If you can't do that, I would consider using a fuel additive such as Power Service, although it isn't essential.
My CRD gets decent mileage with ordinary or extra sedate driving. MPG drops if I drive it like a sports car. MPG also drops rapidly at speeds over 65mph. Make your own choice on how to drive and see what MPG you get. If you do drive it hard then remember the idling cool-down recommendations in the owner's manual, so you don't cook the turbo.
Have you had the TSB on the gauges done?
With a sensor attached to the thermostat housing when mine is at the mark before H it is only 215.
I have not had the gauge TSB done. I have also noted that the fan clutch does not kick in until 3/4.
My fan kicks on when the outside temp is 90 Fh. I have never seen it gauge go beyond the 1/2 way point even pulling a 14' box trailer filled with hay for the horses, total weight was about 3,000 lbs.
Thanks for the information.
Farout
Farout
I have a couple questions ...
What is a "Provet 200"? I searched and could not find anything. aslo what does "CCV" stand for?
Last but not least -- what is cetane?
Thx again ...
Provent is a add on device that traps and filters oil fumes and blow-by coming from the crank case and diverts the condensed fluids back into the crankcase. It keeps your intercooler hoses, intercooler and intake manifold cleaner. My opinion is that it is a bit pricey and some of the fumes should not be put back into the oil, but it does do what it is designed to to, apparently.
The short answer is CCV is Closed Crankcase Ventilation. It is a flapper valve on top of your valve cover that creates a one way air flow from the pulsations and blow-by in crankcase to the intake just ahead of the turbo. Without it, pressure would build up in the crankcase causing oil to leak past the seals and gaskets. In gassers the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve (PCV) controls vacuum from the intake to draw fumes and blow-by out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold. There is no vacuum in a turbo diesel intake like in a gasser.
Once again, the simple answer is that cetane number is a measure of diesel fuel like octane number is a measure of gasoline. As you know, octane number indicates the ability of gasoline to resist igniting early or too rapidly under compression. Somewhat the opposite of octane number, cetane number measures how easily diesel fuel ignites under pressure, which is very important in cold winter weather. However, none of the stations where I buy fuel post the cetane number on the pumps. I used cetane improver for 5 tanks full and could not detect any difference in how the engine ran or any increase in fuel economy.
If you use the forum search function for these items in you question you will get a ton of hits explaining and debating these topics.
We live on a very steep hill 1200 feet above The Dalles, Oregon and I have checked it twice with the A/C on and no guage movement. No TSB done on the guages.
No we didn't get the H3. My back - her knee. The seat is too low to the floorpan for us. Otherwise, an H3 in a heartbeat. The crd goes into the new dealership tomorrow.
Still on our list, another Malibu-sell the trailer, Cadillac SRX, and the Tahoe. When depends on what happens tomorrow.
CRD poorly designed and built, bad engineering with the front lower control arm, not everybody can enjoy rotgut texas diesel and get tired of listening to cetane and 50 mpg with eggs under my right foot. We will never really trust this vehicle and that is sad - it could've been ....
Mine fuel takes about 12-14 gal at 1/2 and 19 gal on E.
I can get mine to the 7/8 on a hot day going up hill with just me in it and will do the same towing a pickup box trailer @ 4600 lb. but I think it is just inaccurate according the the seperate unit.
Fuel additives are useful for certain things, like if you buy diesel in the desert (where it is straight #2 without any blending for cold flow properties) and then want the ability to drive up into 10,000ft mountains at night without having fuel gelling. Wish I had known in advance!
There are several additive products on the market as mentioned above. Cetane improver will in most cases help minimize Diesel knock and improve cold startability. Multifunctional additives are a combination of additives. With the reduction in sulfur, the fuel is more prone to oxidizing which causes varnish and premature fuel filter plugging. Lubricity is also an issue. Multifunctional additives also include a detergent to clean and/or prevent deposits in the combustion chamber and injector which can improve fuel mileage or at the least prevent deterioration in fuel mileage over time. Not all Diesel fuel is the same and some fuel requires higher treat rates than others. The treat rate listed on the container is the "typical" that works for the majority of fuels. There are fuels out there that do not respond to cetane improver.
I could go into more detail on Diesel fuel additives but this is not the place or time. All Diesel fuel additives are not just cold flow improver or cetane improver! That is unless you are specifically buying a cold flow or cetane improver additive. But I do not know of any cold flow or cetane additives on the shelf that are just that. The most popular additives (Power Service and Stanadyne) are multifunctional additives.
Personally I recommend and use Multifunctional Diesel Fuel Additives. It only costs a few cents per gallon to treat. I would rather error on the safe side and do my CRD (and all my other Diesel engines) a favor to prevent deposit formation, stabilize the fuel, maintain lubricity, and keep it running like new for as long as possible.
I still have the impression the Liberty I received was a pre-series of what you have today. Nevertheless it runs perfectly and I intend to keep it until it falls apart.
My '92 Dakota transmission makes that same sound. That transmission is basically the old 727 with electronically controlled overdrive and a lock up torque converter added. It's also flawless (except for a small leak) after 135k miles of hard use.