Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • kellog13kellog13 Member Posts: 12
    Hey Lightnin,
    Dealer says not to worry, everything is ok, famous last words...I've done everything I can at this point, topped up oil(down 1/2 liter)and will check filter tightness seeing what happened to the other fellow. This is my status:

    -Shell ultra always(it does perform better, CRD and Passat 2.0)
    -Stanadyne
    -0w40 mobil 1

    I'm disapointed with the dealer saying everything is fine, drive it till it breaks and then we can fix it. I don't have that luxury working on aircraft, they have a habit of falling out of the sky when the engine quits...I'll post when I have something significant to report.

    Kellog13
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    I am convinced you have a turbo issue. No oil should be leaking out of anything ever. The Environmental Protection Agency wouldn't allow a drip catch like that unless it went somewhere to be burnt/vaporized/eliminated.

    If you have an oil mess, you have a mechanical problem and they should address it asap. My assumption is that a seal behind a bearing is leaking. If you can find the oil leak you can find the problem, in most cases.

    Good luck and please post your results for our education.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    I still don't have my CRD.

    I have been without my CRD for 10 days now because of the F37 recall and a problem uploading the new software to the ECM and TCM. The control units locked up and Daimler/Chrysler has been notified. Dealer says we gotta wait.

    In the mean time, I have been given a rental car for an indefinite amount of time and told not to worry about the cost (I asked twice because I couldn't believe they meant it) no matter how long they keep the Jeep. The dealership has been very very good about this and the service advisor is extremely professional and clear about the issue.

    Like when they don't know the answer to something he says "I don't know and will find out" instead of making up an answer. I give them credit for honesty.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    The oil leak could be caused from a loose fitting off one of the coolant lines for the turbo.The turbo is oil cooled.

    This would decrease the amount of lubrication for the bearing and would in time cause damage from wear.
    Also if left as it is evenually you would have oil leaking by the bearing .This is common on most turbo's after many years use.
    Do you have oil in your air intake
    is it an escessive amount of oil?.

    Have you tried talking to the General manager,or owner of the Dealership? about your unresolved concerns.
    A Five star Dealer is supposed to resolve any concerns on your vehicle.
    In Canada we have a customer assistance center we can call to complain about our unresolved issues with a dealer.
    It usually gets fixed right away after.
    But I am not sure if you have the same in the U.S.
    Does the dealership have trained Diesel mechanics specific to the 2.8L.If they don't ?
    I would try another Dealership First to get results.

    I am sure there is another dealer in Florida right?
    I hope you get this resolved soon.
    I believe Dcx Administration is on holidays till the Newyear.
    Good luck..
    Lightnin..
  • patscrdpatscrd Member Posts: 7
    Just had the f37 rework 12/21/06 now fuel economy 20 at best,new torque converter so loosethat the tach is all over the place,the converter never locks up till 53 mph no matter how light of pressure on the pedel,went back tothe dealer ,they checked it over and said thats normal with the new converter ,before the rework i was 23and 28 hwy,now they screwed up everything .Their only suggestion was for me to call jeep hq ,so i guess thats next .We only have 10,000 on the rig . i was very pleased with the jeep till the rework .I believe we all better get together because $28,000 is too muchto be having all these problems,and it seem im not the only 1.
  • derbs24derbs24 Member Posts: 17
    Make sure you double-check your fluid level. I had the F37 done and it came back 5qts low. The dealership couldn't believe it because they didn't drain the trans and the new converter comes pre-filled they say. The most they ever have to put in is, "half to 1 qt at most to top it off". However the fact is, it was low. It would slip and the tach was all over the place. Maybe the new converters are not pre-filled??? Just a thought.
    The dealer did take it back and look it over and documented they made a mistake on paper.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    We all know that the fomoto F-108 is use on the CRD if you want to replaced the oil with a touch of a level. The thread of the F-108 is 16mm that it fit the ok in the thread it hole. Well there is an adapter that is use -CRD 108- what is this adapter look like, is it worth the 15.00 bucks that they want. Does it go over the thread of the valve, is a coupling or a thread it bushing what is it.
    Please let me know.

    Nescosmo.
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Member Posts: 33
    Reading some older posts on how to drain and bleed the fuel filter and ran across this one... Yep I tried to put the owners manual in the glove box, did not fit. Tried to put it in the back under the seat, worked good till I lowered the seat and wondered why the seat did not want to go down, it was the manual. And yes I just fit it nicely in the glove box. Thank you for posting this message. I have to give you the Duh Solute...
  • skeezix1skeezix1 Member Posts: 1
    :surprise: I am not new to this forum, just never posted anything before.
    Everything was going good for me until I got that Christmas Card from DiamlerChrisler. I understand the way things are manufactured these days you will get a recall now and then. A torque converter replacement is a biggie. What really gets to me is the de-tuning of my engine so it won't damage the weak torque converter and transmission. I want the vehicle that I paid the extra money for at least.
    Then I find out that it would be very impractical to trade out of my problem as it's value has dropped more than $10,000 from when I purchased it a year and a-half ago.
    Maybe B&M can come up with a fix.
    Thanks for lettin me spout off here, I have enjoyed all the posts for the Liberty Diesel in the past.
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Member Posts: 33
    I recently noticed the shuddering in my Jeep also. It sort of went away after I drove it some or I got used to it. Anyway for lack of understanding of my fuel mileage (consistent 20mpg) I bled the fuel filter to see if it had air. Boy did it. Bled it and bled it, seems like the air keeps coming back. I tightened the two fuel fittings by the air filter. All the rest of them seem like manufacturers fittings that I can’t tighten. The loose one is near the tank in some weird plastic fitting that I know I can’t mess with. Any other fitting for the fuel lines that I might have missed? On the test runs I am happy with the more power I get. Either have not got the air out or have a loose fitting still. Anyone have some suggestions?
  • sfcjclsfcjcl Member Posts: 5
    I haven't posted in awhile, but my 2005 CRD just got back from the shop today (only 2 1/2 days) with the F37 completed and a remote start installed (christmas gift). Anyway, before the new torque converter, I had noticed a little "lurch" in the upshift of the transmission. I had attributed it to the diesel/tranny combo and not paid a whole lot of attention to it. But GOOD GOLLY MISS MOLLY, what a difference, very smooth on acceleration, no matter how hard. And, I put 114 miles today just running around town and can already see an improvement in fuel economy, at least in the city. Got about a 300 mile round trip comming up this weekend so we'll see. :shades:
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Take it back to the dealer if it keeps getting air in it. You should only have to bleed it once a month. The fuel system is only covered for 36months/36,000 miles. Have them fix it before you have to pay for it. Good luck.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout where are you; Are you in vacation?. I wil like to see your posting, you always are at the front I like to know what is goin on.

    FAROUT FAROUT FAROUT RESPOND.

    Nescosmo.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    With the recall and the de- tuning of the engine for less torque, can we recover full amount or a portion of what we paid?
    I say this because of the class action lawsuit of the owners of the Mustang Cobra edition.
    At the time, the Cobra was touted as having "X" amount of Horse Power. When many owners had dynoed their car they found out that they were severally under the advertised horse power stated by Ford.
    Long Story short, Ford lost, Cobra owners won the class action suit. As of my understanding many of the owners were fairly compensated.
    Are there any attorney's in here that would take our case? Is this something that we as a group would want to sign up for? As a whole we're a lot stronger then just a few against DMX.
  • turbledieselturblediesel Member Posts: 28
    Calling jeep hq does nothing. They just make note of your dissatisfaction. You'll still get recalls and blurbs concerning your "continuing satisfaction". They're OK with your money... and mine.

    Good luck.
  • dirtmoverdirtmover Member Posts: 14
    Looking for a copy of the factory service manual. The ones I have found so far are in the $140 range for a soft copy. I managed to locate a 2002 manual online but it doesn't cover our diesel. Any suggestions?
  • gilly57gilly57 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, this is my first post. The recall thread was interesting; I have not recv'd a notice yet and I checked my VIN and there is nothing listed. I purchased my CRD in Sep 06. I understand from the dealer that my CRD came off the line 23 May 2006. I love my CRD. So far I have gotten up to 24 mph but usually get around 22-23 because I do a 75 mile commute daily on the Interstate and it's hard to keep it at the speed limit. The better mph was driving at a steady 65mph.
  • lightkernellightkernel Member Posts: 11
    Dirtmover: I got a factory service manual on CD for my 2006 Liberty for $90. Its part number is 81-370-06060CD. I didn't see any availabel for earlier model years.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: Just was super involved with the family I love so much! The family comes first at Holy Days. Christmas and Ressurection Sunday are special Holy Days and nothing interferes with our family and celebration at these times.
    We now have close to 27,000 miles on the CRD. The F 37 is a month old now. I don't notice a drop in power or torque. However we are getting more jerkiness when it's 5th lockup. I have blown it's nose several times and it just does not go away for more than a few hours. I am wondering is this jerkiness is what others call a shudder? I have to go back to the shop that did the F 37 because my power mirrors don't work after the F 37 was done.
    Hope you had a wonderful Christmas.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    skeezix1: Welcome to posting on the forum! I have found that if I have a steady diet of reading negative stuff about our CRD's it really can get me discouraged and all but ready to turn it in. Have you experienced this too?
    When a few had said how much about how much the resale value had dropped on our CRD's, I was very discouraged! So I checked this out for my self. Our CRD is a 05 Sport the list was about $28,300. it has several factory add on's which we like. We paid $25.157. We bought it Sept. 29,05. The NADA says it's worth about $ 19,600. with 27,000 miles on the Liberty. I talked with a few dealers about trading it and all were willing to do that and even a little more. I would advise not to take much as gospel truth, unless you can prove it's truth for your self. There are placed in the US that do have a weak resale market, and perhaps there might be a $10,000 drop in resale value. You have to check out these things for the area in which you live.
    My advice is to drive it and keep it with the DCX Service Contract, which extends the warranty and offers better protection for your investment.
    Remember that there are more than 550,000 of these CRD's running in Europe, and have a very good quality report and they seem to last a good long time. A person can become so anxious that you can hate the CRD based on hear say. Just drive it and relax as much as possible.
    Many other vehicle makers have many more problems too. Some fight tooth and nail to fight you at every turn. I had two Ford Company vehicles that were junk and Ford did so very very little. Also the cars in the fifties and sixties were much much worse than you can imagine, we have a much better system in place to help consumers than 30 years ago.
    Hope this helps.

    Farout.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    tony67ss: It is a little late but, welcome to the forum! Blegin is a good ways from Missouri, and I enjoy talking with people from Europe, so thanks for joining in.

    Farout
  • dirtmoverdirtmover Member Posts: 14
    Where from? Google finds this P/N at www.autorepairmanuals.biz they're selling it for $120. I seem to recall the others I found in the $140 range.
  • pappydoddpappydodd Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2005 and get similar milage. I drove from Nebraska, through Canada to Alaska and back; we got about 24 average with two people and a couple hundred pounds of gear. I have been very happy with the diesel and vehicle performance. The only things I would change--more agressive tires and a manual transmission.
  • pappydoddpappydodd Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone fitted their Liberty with manual lockout hubs? If so, how much was milage improved. I have the cast aluminum wheels, so I would either have to change to steel or drill the centers to fit the hubs.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout.... Welcome back I had the same jerkiness that you are having and Goodcrd toll me about the air in the fuel filter. Well i did bled the fuel and a lot of air came out of the fuel system, now the jerkiness is gone and it run very smooth. try it and you will see how much improvement the CRD will have.

    Nescosmo.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: I have no idea how to do that. Perhaps when I have the water/fuel filter changed it might clear up. I am aiming for March to have the filter changed.
    I do very little work myself, and after looking at the filter I am thinking this looks rather difficult, is it and how long does it take?

    Farout
  • jcscrdjcscrd Member Posts: 4
    happy new year. I have a 05 CRD w/ 24k miles. I've read a few of the messages on this site and I've had similar problems...EGR, then after many many times in the 5 star dealer shop, I filed for lemon law and they replaced "the entire turbo". I just had the F37 and F23 which went from a 1 day job to a 3 day job b/c something fried my "computer". My latest and most frustrating problem is slow starting or not starting. I turn the key forward and count slowly to 10 and pray that the glow plugs are warm. I have no idea about glow plugs, so my methodology is simply a guess. Sometimes it starts, but other times it doesn't. If it doesn't start I try again, but wait longer. It takes about 5 times if it fails to start the 1st time. This has happened so many times in parking lots and people come ask if I need help. Today it took me 5 minutes to start the Jeep at the grocery store. I told the 5 star dealer about it and they said it was normal. How can this possibly be normal? Does anyone have a suggestion or a way to help what appears to be a "glow plug issue?" Thanks for your help.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout.... is very simple and i know you can do it. If you look at the filter you will see a hose with a clamp that is going down, then you see the pump that you push in and out well beside the pump to the left you will see a 1/4" nipple that is open to the air, the nipple is thread it to the filter assembly and it has a 3/8 or 7/16 nut. put your wench there, pump the pump in and out til it get hard then get your wench and open the nipple(push to the hood) and it will open loose, fuel will come out or air if it has some, close it and pump the pump again ( put a rag under the nipple to catch the diesel that will come out)open again until only fuel come out, and that is it. Do that every month. Good luck.

    Nescosmo.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout... For got to tell you that the nipple is silver color; it is different than everything else.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    re: dirtmover
    There is a 1 800 # at the back of the owners manual to order a manual.
    I ordered my service manual .It cost me about $140.00.
    Very detailed,although you almost have to highlight those chapters that refers to the engine and tranny.
    It can be confusing at times when a chapter jumps from the 3.7L to the 2.8L.

    re: pappydodd
    about the mileage you are getting...
    there is a break in period of 30K miles,where it will affect your mileage .
    I would also suggest some of these fuel saving tips.That worked for me.
    1/When travelling on a flat Hyway keep your cruise set at 55 mph.
    I actually run mine at 60 then set the cruise,and decel to 53-55 mph while in 5th.this drops my rpms to 1700-1800rpm's.
    I have saved 2 mpg by doing this going to work everyday.
    use trucking lanes to avoid the impatient drivers.
    2/Use fuel conditioner/additives,that contain a cetane improver,
    -or water eliminator/anti gel,
    -or lubricity formula top end lube.
    suggested use of one these products:
    -Stanadyne performance formula or Lubricity formula 1/3 bottle to a fill up.
    -Power service cetane improver 1/2 bottle/fill up
    -Lucas upper cylinder lube 6 onzes/fill up
    3/Fill up with Diesel fuels that have a "premium" or "ultra",U.L.S.D. rating.These will have a higher cetane rating than the regular fuels. eg.B.P.premium, Shell ultra, Sunoco gold ,Citgo #1.
    4/oil change before a long trip.use mobil 1 0W40.
    5/keep tire pressures at 36-38 psi.
    Lets try that for starters.
    Let me know if your performance,mileage are better.
    peace ..
    Lightnin..
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    jcscrd: Welcome to the forum. The glow plug light is on the left side of the instrument cluster. When on it shows yellow in color, and looks like a small spring on it's side. Don't think you are the only one not to have found the light. I thought it was the red light that flashes about three or four times with a dong type of sound. My glow plug light does not stay on more than a second or two at the most, and when I start it by the glow plug light it takes more longer starts, then if I do wait for the red light and the dong noise to stop. I let the engine run at least 1 minuet before putting the engine in gear. Then I slowly let the Liberty back up under it's own power and when it starts to roll I then give it some fuel.
    Someone who told your your starting is normal, is attempting to avoid having to deal with your problem. Find another 5 star dealer! I finally went to a Dodge dealer who does a lot of Dodge diesel trucks to do all my work. Dodge dealers can do the repair just the same as any Jeep dealer.
    Just as a guess several things come to mind. A Water/fuel filter needs changing. bad fuel with bacteria in it, Bio fuel above B-5 being used, and glow plug problems even the wires may be bad. You really need a serious good tec who knows his stuff. I have almost 27,000 miles and have done all the recalls and reflashes too. Hope this helps, please let me know how it turns out.

    Farout
  • dmkkengdmkkeng Member Posts: 11
    The service center forgot to install the oil dip stick after my last oil change. Unfortunately I didn't have any reason to check under the hood and ended up travelling approximately 1000 miles before I opened the hood to check the oil and add some windshield washer fluid. The first thing I noticed was the dip stick sitting on top in front of the radiator, the second was oil dripping from the engine compartment insulation onto the engine. After cursing the service center and myself for not checking their work (I don't know how they got their 5 star rating), I cleaned off the dip stick, checked the oil level and continued on my trip.

    I'm going to call the service manager, first off I'm going to get them to clean the engine, everything is covered in oil. However, I was wondering what affect that running the vehicle without a oil dip stick would have? I checked the oil level and it didn't go below the add mark. I did notice that my gas mileage dropped however that could be for other reasons.

    One other thing I noticed on the trip was when the engine was cold it wouldn't shift into overdrive. AT 60 mph/ 100 kph the engine was at about 2500 rpm. This lasted about 5 minutes - the outside temperature was approximately 20 degrees fahrenheit. Anyone else experience this problem?
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    1. You should tell them where to stick the dipstick when you go back

    2. No overdrive is not a problem The car is programmed to not go into final drive until a certain temp is reached
  • petoskiinspetoskiins Member Posts: 12
    jcscrd

    Your starting method is most likely your problem. You should look to the upper left area of the dash next to your speedometer, turn the key halfway and if its cold enough you will see a yellow spring illuminate. As soon as the spring goes out you should turn the key further to start the car.

    Your method of waiting 10 seconds allows the glowplugs to cool back down and you are then trying to start the car without their benefit. The glowplugs are like the wires of a toaster in that the start to glow orange when you turn the key halfway. It takes them less than two seconds to get hot enough to glow. This also means that they will cool off quickly after the light goes out. So try starting the engine as soon as the indicator (yellow spring) goes out.

    If the weather outside is warm or the engine is warm, you will not see the spring and so you do not have to wait.
  • petoskiinspetoskiins Member Posts: 12
    Inspect the hoses going from the turbo to the radiator. look for a tear or a loose connection.
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I replaced mine with the p235/70R16 Michelin LTX M&S. They ride, roll, hold and wear really good for me. I have had 2 sets of them on my last vehice, 2001 Ford Ranger Edge. You Can't beat a Michelin Tire. Like one of my friends at Maple City Tire said, and I agree, "Good Year, only Good for one Year!" :P
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I just found out that mine has to have it done. What I need to know is how did it effect your CRD after it was done? Good, bad, or otherwise? NEED TO KNOW! :confuse: :confuse:
  • pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    Does anyone here have the factory UConnect feature? What radio do you have that works with it?

    My 05 CRD has the RBQ 6 disc in dash radio. I have compared the factory and dealer aftermarket versions of UConnect and the factory one is clearly better with a mic in the mirror and a feature that displays phone numbers on the radio.

    from what I can tell, the aftermarket Mopar one does not display the phone number and uses a tacky little mic mounted on the headliner.

    Also not clear is how easy it is to pair your phone at each startup.

    If anyone has the aftermarket one, please post your opinions and whether the cabin noise in our CRDs is a problem for UConnect. I would be very grateful for advice.

    Many thanks.

    Oh, I'm over two weeks and counting without my CRD which is still in for the F37 recall. They've had it since the Monday BEFORE CHRISTMAS!
  • pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    Just ask your dealer if they have done any and did they have any issues. My dealer has THREE crds sitting on the lot (including mine) which will not accept the software/firmware update.

    My advice is don't be first. If they have done them without issues, get it done. I believe it will ensure a longer life of the drive train.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Guys my CRD is doing now what it should be doing before the ULSD fuel. Smoke all the time, not like a bad engine but it smoke on heavy acceleration, at a light, passing a car, changing lanes, etc. the tech told me that is normal, a friend told me that it was the oil. I use the Rotella 5w-40 and so many others; should i change diesel station, maybe the diesel is not as good as it should. What do you guys think.

    Nescosmo.
  • pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    I think it is the EGR and within a week your MIL will throw a code.

    Mine did the exact same thing. The smoke that comes out is sometimes ridiculous. Good luck and I hope you get it resolved. Some smoke is normal, but not what I think you are describing. Bad fuel is possible.

    The Rotella oil won't make it smoke. That weight is within spec.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Check your air filter and air filter box first. It's quick and easy. I just cleaned a mouse nest out of mine last week. Look for the obvious first.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    My 05 CRD had the code for the EGR valve, which was replaced and a week later the code came back. DCX tech support had the dealer change out the "intake throttle valve" (VM Motori's description) and the code and the heavy smoking was gone and the power was back. The new throttle valve looks different then the one it replaced, so was there a change made to this part? Could this be the EGR problem to begin with? Doesn't the smoke come from too much fuel to air ratio? Which is what the valve could do.

    Farout,

    As far as mine's build date I don't know the day but it was built in June and at the dealer around the 15th of June. Its the Atlantic Blue Sport.

    Does anyone know if the engine is a "dome and skirt" piston design? or just a single piece piston?

    F37 Review
    I have 1600 miles since the recall was done a couple of weeks ago. The engine runs smoother and the transmission has less engine braking when coating to a stop like an off ramp to a stop sign. The shift points haven't changed and I don't notice a seat-of-the-pants torque change, but I will fine out when I pull my camper. Mileage hasn't changed still around 24-25 on the highway at 65-67mph. I'm ready for my 32,500 mile oil change, I have it done every 5000 miles. Another $90. Long Life: Priceless
  • hogwild1961hogwild1961 Member Posts: 26
    keep us all posted I am sure everyone would like to have there money back..were do I sign up
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Zoomy2.... I will do what Goodcrd said about the air intake and will check my intake throttle valve; But when i turn off the engine i hear the flapper click, meaning that the valve is working. so far the light hasn't come on but will see. maybe i should run the CRD like a rented mule but then again i have only less than 7000 miles and i am afraid to ruin the engine.

    Nescosmo
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Member Posts: 33
    Took my jeep into the dealer today b/c there is air in the fuel and dip stick for transmission keeps coming out. The mechanic doesn’t believe it is getting air because no fuel is leaking. The tech said, “When you pump the fuel filter primer, it puts air into it” :surprise: . The parts department did order me a new dipstick and tube. I plan on calling another dealer to inquire more about this air issue. And to see if their tech will drop the fuel tank and replace the fittings and fuel line if needed.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Ucanfarm.... I don't think so, the manual said that when you change your fuel filter you have to pump 20 times for the fuel to come from the lines to the filter then purge the filter. I think that he is just talking %$#^%^ if you know what i mean. My tank hose was loose it didn't leak fuel but it was loose so maybe air was coming in from there.
  • patscrdpatscrd Member Posts: 7
    Had F37 done on 12/22/06 now the torque converter never locks up untill 53 mph now ,rpms all over the place when you excelerate from the 40 to 50 range because the new converter is so loose. Took it back to the dealer,they checked everything out ,said its normal,that was on 12/27.Called Jeep on 12/28,they take it to another dealer ,so i did,01/02/07 .They took a ride with me at 7;30 this morning and agreed with me ,the rpms all over the place and no lock up till 53 mph,The tech said that aint gona work ,your millage will suck unless you drive it 60 all the time.
  • patscrdpatscrd Member Posts: 7
    Sorry,ran out of room.Lucky for me ,they just finished another crd with the f37 so we drove it ,it operates the same way ,no lock up till 53mph [ immagine that ] they called jeep and were told this all part of the save the transmission ,smoke the torque converter program,untill all of us [non-permissible content removed] about it . The dealer was 100% with me ,says he can see one hell of alot of these comming back .DONT STAND FOR IT ,Im not going to give up.Fuell economy was great till they did this 23cty 28 hwy ,not any more ,Im calling and writing to see whats next.Please people check it out when you get it back,let me know.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    I still don't have mine back...They've had it since December 19th. No word from them on when or if I'll ever see it again.

    I'm losing my patience.
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