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Comments
I have been changing oil every 7,500 miles.
By the way I found out WIX makes the water/fuel filter we gat at the dealer. But you can't buy one, DCX has an exclusive contract with DCX. That's what I call to bad old greedy way to make customers unhappy. If you could buy one the price is more than one dollar more than DCX. They get you at both ends.
Farout
Happy New Year
When a soft fuel line fixing clamp is too tight, the rubber gets squashed in an irregular shape and air sneaks into the filter housing. I often tend to loosen my fittings to let them turn on the hoses. A nicer thing to do is to replace the original fittings with "Swagelok" 1/4" NPT right angle connectors. They are not very expensive and safe to manipulate.
This new engine has no flywheel and to have a smooth running engine right after a cold start, it needs special plugs that remain hot for a few seconds. These "hot tips" are used for helping ignition when the cylinder walls are still cold.
thanks
Thanks,
Skeeter
A shout out to Farout, how ya do'in buddy ??
ucanfarm.
My transmission shift points under normal (for me) throttle are 10, 20, 34, 50 and 62 mph for 1 thru 5, respectively. This is after 2 reflashes and before the TC recall. The torque converter locks up at 50 mph in 4th gear and 62 mph in 5th gear. With overdrive off, the torque converter also locks up at 40 in 3rd gear. I can stand on it in 3rd gear up a steep grade at 45 mph with a trailer and the torque converter stays locked up. I don’t want the transmission to shift into 5th gear at 54 mph and lock up the converter because that would make 4th gear useless – might as well have a 4 speed. I like that it does not shift into 5th until 62 because that make 4th gear useful when driving in some 55 mph zones.
I have a 52 mile (55 mph, no cruise) hilly curvy stretch that I drive frequently and before the 2nd reflash the transmission would shift into 5th at 54 mph and back down into 4th continually – probably 100 to 150 shifts over the distance because it is impossible to maintain a constant speed. However, the way the transmission shifts now I can run 4th gear almost all the way with maybe about 15 to 20 shifts between 4th and 5th.
This is stated as an observation / opinion, not as an argument.
When there is partial pressure in the line because the fuel pump sucks the liquid, air can get in.
When the engine stops and pressure balances with outside (atmosphere), then capillarity helps the fuel to migrate outside via the small gap and leaves a smell or a visible accumulation of dirt.
I learned during my racing assistance years that chewing gum makes a great patch when you don't have too many fillings
The older plugs were simple heaters that would deteriorate with time and simply burn by thermal runaway.
Someone posted here about the converter locking up around 53 MPH just after he had his done. This happened before the reflash and if I remember, count yourself blessed, because if the speed slows down and it goes out of lockup, the engine will speed up, but it will keep it from running to slow an RPM and potentially have the turbo forced air and fuel burn the piston tops. I'll take it on a drive tomorrow and let you all know how it does.
ucanfarm
If you have the factory tow package the CRD has the wiring for the 7-wire system and should have come with an adapter for the flat 4-wire. The trailer brake controller connects into the wiring harness of the CRD. The wires should be under the dash, my brake controller is mounted low on the dash board, near the kick panel left side of the steering column. I had the dealer install my trailer brake controller as part of the purchase agreement, it took about 45 minutes. I have a hard side camper, 18'Zoom with 4-wheel electric drum brakes.
The brake controllers come with some instructions about the install, adjustments and leveling range. But it's not specific to a vehicle. It not a easy as a Ford Truck which literally has a plug in the wiring harness, but there are only a few wires to connect, since the CRD's tow package included the wiring, you won't have to run the wires to the rear connector.
Drove home from FL over the past several days and gave the CRD a good workout. Trans performed beautifully. Shifts were firm and quick and TC lockup seemed more positive at lower speeds. The remapping of the engine power curve seems to have helped too. Top gear acceleration remains quite quick and 90 MPH comes very quickly if you do not pay attention. That little turbo diesel loves to run. Cruise control is mandatory for any long distance cruising in this little guy.
FE was really good for the 1100+ miles we (wife and I)drove averaging 28.2 MPG for the trip. Best MPG obtained while driving 65 MPH which yielded 31.6 MPG for nearly 300 miles. Average cruising speed for the trip was was around 73 MPH.
The Service Mgr is a good guy so I do not think he is making things up to cover something (Though who knows). He said DCX told him to stop attempting any TCM reflashes until further notice. So he ordered a new TCM with the old program and installed that. I told the Service Mgr that many of you on this board had your TCMs reflashed successfully. He just said all dealers are having the reflash problem so he does not see how anyone could have there TCM flashed with the new program.
Has anyone else experienced similar problems with the recall or does this sound like dealer service department BS ???
North America is on the right path using small diesels in small SUV's, the CRD is way better than the 3.7 which I owned for a year waiting for the diesel to arrive. Actually the whole package is pretty good...if they could just get the tranny and a few control systems to function in harmony...
I also took video of the RPM shift pattern to illustrate the 6 speed for the dealer and another time the tranny wouldn't shift to overdrive when the engine was at full heat, let me know if you want me to post them.
I think what you are experiencing to get 6 speeds is 3rd gear TC lock up that occurs after the 3rd gear shift so it is indeed another speed. Then, when it shifts into 4th and 5th the shifts and lock-ups are almost simultaneous, thus 2 more speeds and gears.
I also think that your transmission is shifting (like mine) into 4th gear at 84 kph and 5th gear at 103kph. The sequence in my CRD is 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd TC lock-up, 4th and 5th for 6 speeds. Also there is a 2-speed 2nd gear that when shifting up is one speed and when gearing down under load is a slightly higher gear. I think (but am not certain) that the 2-speed second gear is a different event altogether.
My brother has a 2006 Jetta TDI with DSG. What a car! I am completely happy with my CRD the way it is if I don't think too much about my short time behind the wheel of the TDI.
I have been without my CRD since December 19th. The dealer was told by DCX to NOT do any more reflashes until they get new controllers. My dealer has THREE sitting on the back lot with controllers back ordered. This is not service department BS. DCX has been involved the zone manager has been in touch with the dealer and the controllers appear to be back ordered until into February. If that is the case I will have been without my Jeep for over a month.
The dealer has been exceptionally well mannered about this, honest about the problem and transparent with me about what they are doing.
According to the lemon law provisions in my state, I will be eligible for a buy back on the last business day of January under the "loss of use" provision of the law. In our state it is for cumulative loss of use for 30 business days. Since I have had no other problems where the Jeep was out of service for a whole day (even my EGR issue was diagnosed and fixed inside of 3 hours!), this is the only problem I've had.
I have sent a certified letter to DaimlerChrysler notifying them of the issue to comply with the guidelines for if we want to exercise the buy back option.
I'd rather have the warranty extended from 70 to 100K miles and a guarantee of a free rental whenever I"m inconvenienced in the future. The vehicle has been virtually problem free in 25K miles and the fact that it's a part ordering problem doesn't make me think less of the vehicle, just that I think DCX has some major inventory control issues and they didn't think through the engineering of this transmission/engine combination.
What do you all think????
Should I do a buy back if it comes to that or ask for a warranty extension. I bought the 7/70 that was offered at the time. A 100K warranty was not on offer in 2005 by my dealer.
:confuse:
1) Disconnect all 3 electrical sensor connectors on filter/housing (there is one on the bottom for the water sensor).
2) Disconnect both fuel lines (I loosened the clamps and disconnected the rubber hoses from the filter housing).
3) Unbolt filter housing from firewall.
4) Remove entire housing/filter....this allows you to get a strap wrench around filter to remove it.
5) Install new filter on housing. ***Be sure to remove the water sensor from the bottom of the old filter and put it on the new one....the new filter doesn't include it (new filter comes with a white, plastic valve screwed in the bottom of the filter which must be removed and trashed).
6) Re-install everything from steps 4 thru 1.
7) Pump primer about 20 times. Start engine and idle till it dies. Re-prime about 10 more times. Re-start engine. Continue this sequence till engine remains running (took 3 cycles for me). Then, I ran engine at 1500 rpm till it ran smoothly (it stumbled and smoked a lot at first till it purged out all the air). Then took on road test....all seems to operate normally, except it feels like it has more power and smokes less than before.
Hope this helps when you do yours!
Twocycle2
Nescosmo.
Nescomso, I'm leaning strongly in your column with this but am grateful for any and all opinions on this. If anyone has ideas about what I might ask for (like the warranty extension), I'd like to hear it.
We went and drove other Jeeps just for something to do this weekend. I don't want a Gr Cherokee or Commander because the mileage and emissions are not environmentally friendly and I think the Compass is a modern day AMC Gremlin.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here, isn't the RFE transmission a 4 speed with TC lock up to give us a total of 5 speeds?
Mine shifts like this:
1st- sloppy and loose, no lock up
2nd- sloppy and loose, no lock up
3rd- sloppy and loose, no lock up
4th- real loose until 83-84 kph when up shift occurs to TC lock-up
5th- solid TC lock up at 83-84 kph, drops about a 1000 rpm then at 103 kph it drops another 300 rpm and is solid and will not slip. When the go-peddle is backed off and RPM's lowered, it will disengage at 1600 RPM and re-engage at 1900 RPM at original TC lock up speed.
One more thing, go 60 kph on a flat road and floor it, when the vehicle starts to pull let off the pedal then floor it again, do this 3-4 times and see what happens. My TC wont grab and it will rev at 3500 and you can keep it there without speeding the vehicle up. Your probably asking yourselves why would anyone want to do this, well I'm trying to understand where the poor engineering has taken place and better inform the dealership to aid in trouble shooting, they need all the help they can get. But its real simple, step on the go peddle and the vehicle should move forward...instantly.
Twocycle2
The sequence is:
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 4th with TC lock, 5th with TC lock
The TC will not lock in 3rd unless overdrive is off.
You will not see a direct shift between the two 2nd ratios (1.67 & 1.5) since the first is used for the shift up from 1st and the second for the shift down from 3rd
http://www.new-cars.com/2005/jeep/jeep-liberty-specs.html#transmission
You will notice that 3rd is 1 to 1, and 4th and 5th are .75 and .67 to 1 - both overdrive ratios. I don't necessarily believe data on every web site but the gear ratios posted work out mathematically almost exactly with observed speeds and rpms on my CRD. I drove 135 miles today and I must confess that sometimes the shifts are a bit ambiguous and difficult to count. I think that under certain conditions 3rd gear TC lock-up does not always happen as the transmission may sometimes go directly to 4th.
With the over drive off activated I get definite 3rd gear TC lock-up verified by math to be 1 to 1 under load with no slippage. To answer your question, I think the CRD transmission is a 5 speed transmission (ignoring 2-speed second gear) that sometimes seems like a 6-speed due to TC operation. And, I think I'm getting lost trying to write about it.
After reading your post that was posted while I was still writing, I think I agree with your sequence after thinking about it. I agree on your following two points you made and did not mean to imply that there could be a direct shift between the two 2nd gears.
At least we agree there are normally 6 speeds, ignoring 2nd gear double, and maybe even 7 speeds with the separate over drive off 3rd gear lock-up which could be initiated before 4th gear? :confuse:
The brake controller wire to the 7-wire plug is located behind the driver's kick panel on the left under the dash. On my Liberty the wire was blue and identified by a tape flag. You will need to supply the power wire from the battery, a ground, and you will need to attach to the wire that provides a signal from your vehicle brake. That should take care of the four brake controller wires. The wire to the battery terminal in the fuse box under the hood will require a resetable circuit breaker that is not included with the brake controller package. Trying to fish the wire through the firewall to the battery is a pain in the neck!
I installed the Tekonsha Prodigy controller in the little cubby hole below the radio and heater controls. Just remember that if you choose that location, the back of the cubby hole rests against a metal cross member or brace. You will need to mount the brake controller far enough out of the cubby hole to allow the wiring to turn down through the floor of the cubby hole.
Those are the only tips that I can think of at this time. There is no real right or wrong way to do this. You will need to look over your own situation to determine what will work best for you.
It used to be 1,2,3,4,5 lock.
It will go into 5th at 50 and 5th lock at 62. It will hold lock until 57.
I preferred the earlier version as it would be better on the mileage.
It will now do a "shudder" while climbing uphill @ around 50 and if I really get on the pedal. I am sure the TC is only partially locked up and it slips under the diesel torque.
I am not sure of the F37 yet, the turbo output hose blew within 5 miles and the MIL has finally cleared after replacement.
The dealers want $80!! for that hose, I bought a standard piece of hose for $21 and cut it to fit.
Bingo, my rig is not on the list for the F37 as its an early build 2006 (F37 already implemented, try it and see what happens attitude at DC) I would say we now have the same REV level of machine. So having having said this I'm afraid the F37 wont hold out as I've already stated mine just began the erratic behavior of upshifting at 103 KPH, its never done that since I've owned it, but does it all the time now. I like this new behavior as fuel mileage and power are good at highway speed (9.3 liters per 100 km), and yes it has a sweet spot around 85-90 MPH that the engine feels comfortable. Not too many highways to do that on but the Coquahala and connector.
Siberia,
The link you posted shows the CRD with a five speed, 6 speed is blanked out. I don't think it matters if the transmission goes through gears/bands or TC lock out, its counted as a gear ratio one way or another. Ours should have 5 distinct gear ratios as stated in the technical sales brochure. If it were more, DC would be selling that like mad, look we have seven speeds in our jeep line up! I think it needs to be 5, mines broke and I'll try to get it fixed. One more thing, my CRD has been flashed a couple of times and the power has decreased off the line.
I thoroughly enjoy reading these posts and the dialog it generates, everything I write is my onion and observation and in no way want to offend any one here, thanks.
I am not offended, just wrong.
My Dakota is a 4-speed (4-gear) transmission, yet the tach shows 5 distinct speeds counting TC lock.
I still think that Dirtmover has the sequence right.
I was told that this dealer has a list of buyers that are looking for CRD's and in our area there are very few to find. He offered me a new Patriot Limited 4X4 (when his arrive) strieght across for my CRD. He said the Patriot Limited had a sticker of more than $27,00. He expects the Patriots to start arriving in mid to late March. He been a man of his word so far to us, but we don't want a small a small Caliber copy in a different skin.
In the in the 5 Jeep dealership within 65 miles of us only 3 have sold any CRD's and the dealer I have used most often sold 8 and only 2 come back for minor service and one had the problems I have mentioned. So far in 16 months I have only seen 1 other CRD besides mine.
Diesel fuel is $2.39 here and at the WalMart station its $2.36 so it has come down from $2.59 in three weeks. Reg. gas it $2.09 so the gap is closing a little. Our CRD has 27,200 miles on it and gets about 22 mpg with the winter diesel. As for the glow plugs I have found if I wait until the red ball light stops along with the bonging of the warning sound it starts much smoother, but it will start in less than 2 seconds after the glow plug spring light goes off almost instantly. Waiting makes the starting mush smoother. I wait 30 to 45 seconds to put it in gear and it slowly moves on it's own. These are just little odd things I have found works best for our CRD.
Hope all had a great Holiday, an this year is a good one.
Farout
After being told they were doing everything possible to get a new controller for my transmission, they got one and I picked up the vehicle today.
I like how it shifts much better with the F37 recall. It is all much crisper and the top point it shifts has moved from 58 to right at about 60 depending on how much I'm accellerating.
There is a slight decrease in bottom end "launch" but not at all objectionable. There is more pedal travel at pullaway from a stoplight and therefore i find it easier to control.
DCX picked up the tab for my rental ($35/day for 21 days).
Dealer, as I mentioned in a previous post, was impeccable. Polite, honest and forthright.
After my F37 was done I was in5 lockup at 54 mph. After 2,000 miles it is now 56 mph. Seldom do I punch it, and mostly try to stay above 55 mph when I can because I believe that is the best part for better fuel mileage. At 55 mph the engine is doing 1700 rpm. At 60 mph it is at 2000 rpm.
Right now with the winter diesel no matter how I drive around locally it stays at 22 mpg. I know one thing for sure I would never reccomend a CRD to any person who was not willing to stay on top of all these little petty things to watch and keep up on. Heck, I guess this has come to be a hobby. Unless this CRD goes on with no more recalls and program recalls, I will seriously consider trading for a 2008 Liberty. I have been to the dealer 13 times for all these reflashes, recalls, and warranty issues, and I refuse to keep this relationship up with returning to get this or that done because I am a "test market" for DCX. I like the CRD but there has to be an end to trial by error.
Farout
Ray
advised DC would not release the TC's along with over
100 in Alberta. Last week I called the Service Advisor again and he got ahold of DC and was advised that they were
not releasing the TC's until they came with pumps which
were back ordered and should be received in about two weeks. Looks like the are replacing the pump too in Canada with the F37 modification.
Mr.Mag00
I don't fit into either catagory A or B. So I am on what I call the A- schedule, or if you like the B+. I changed oil the first time at 9,000 miles then every 7,500 miles from then on. My dealer was killing me with $92. oil changes. Last time I had walMart do it (as I watched) for $55. I just this week fornd a dealer who charges $60. with the DCx filter and the Mobile 1 5-40w. I will try him next and have the water?fuel filter cahnged as well. Then I will have 32,000 miles on the beast. Oh use the Mobile 1 extended oil and they warranty it for 15,000 miles. I don't think I would do it.
Farout
I just got my CRD back after 21 days in the service department. I haven't had time to change my tires! I'm not too upset about all this because I've only had it in for an EGR and a muffler. Nothing that I can remember resulted in an overnight stay for the vehicle.
So after driving it back today, my shift points for OD are around 51 mph and at 61 mph. I"m happy.
I will investigate tires in a month or so.
Have a look at my previous posts #612 and #613 in this forum.
This may answer your question.
Farout
This is my primary vehicle (05 Sport) for towing a 3000# trailer and it does a great job! I get 27MPG not towing and 19 towing. Plenty of HP for hills and a great ride.
The powertrain warranty on this is 84 months or 70,000 miles. If at any time during that period the transmission goes out it's on them less the $100 deduct per the vehicle warranty. I'll just keep this F37 Notification with my paperwork if I expierence and problems in the future.
I paid for 295 Ft Lbs of torque and 160 HP nothing less. I am not a test subject so they can say oops we screwed up you don't get what your paid for unless they want to buy back the vehicle for what I paid plus all the extras I have added.
Just my two cents worth!
If someone needs to change the filter in situ, this will spill fuel in the engine compartment and smell for a week.
It's much easier to undo the two fuel lines and the connectors from underneath the bowl. But once you get to the worktable, without a large protection pan there will be a spill.
I found it's more efficient to prime and vent the filter by disconnecting the outlet tube. No air gets trapped in the housing and I don't need to re start my engine.