Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Here it is:

    We are talking about the sensor on the left hand side of the picture. Mine was clogged, severely obstructed, almost solid :sick:

    The sensor looks like a tiny flag fixed to a post coming out of the body. It's almost 1/8" high by 1/16" wide and sticks out 3/8" from the bottom of the chamber.
    For those who don't have good sight, use a magnifying glass before attempting to clean. There is a 1/16" square solid plastic 'finger' protecting the sensor in the middle of the metering chamber. The sensor can bend laterally in the other directions under very light pressure. I used the pressure from a "3in1" aerosol to flush the debris once the sensor had soaked in white spirit.

    I will come back at the end of the week/tank to report if any improvement. The engine seems a bit peppier :confuse:
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    OK, I'm stumped. I did the recall and now the jeep wants to stutter upon start-up if I have it in drive and apply the brake which I think is similar to problems reported by other jeep owners before the F37 months ago. Normally it stutters or lunges as I approach the stop sign like the engine is working against the brakes. It does this only (thus far), when the engine is cold or still warming up.

    For the first time, it actually died and required a restart. This is what I did before that.
    1.) Engine block heater plugged in all night, in an attached, enclosed garage (11 F here last night).
    2.) Warm engine at idle upon starting for 2-4 minutes.
    3.) Back out of garage (10 feet)
    4.) Travel to end of drive (approx 75 feet)
    5.) Engine surges against breaks, rumbles (you can feel it push on the brakes and it dies like a tractor with the choke pulled out )and dies.

    Any help, experience and ideas would be helpful. I will be calling the service garage today.

  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi Boiler,
    Your block heater doesn't warm up the transmission fluid, it just allows the engine to run by injecting less fuel because it's 'ready'. The engine CPU measures the engine temperature in one hand and the transmission controller gets it's own info from the other hand. When it's cold here (-7C) my transmission tends to stick for a few seconds and I accelerate a bit more to start the slippage of the torque converter; I have an icy 25% ramp to get out of my back yard and this does the trick.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: That looks like I could at least look to see if I could do it. I wonder how much these little jewels cost? It does seem odd that the dealer did not even mention that these things need to be cleaned. But after all what does a five star dealer tec know?
    The new CRD GC has a 17-21 mpg rating, and by what I have read it is ok but not what I would say is worth at least $1,700. USD more over the cost of the 5.7 Hemi. Which has its added cost already.
    It has been -12C here, (notice I put it in your temp) and the "Green Beast" starts right up. I let it run for about a minuet and then put it in R and wait for a few seconds and let the engine idle move the vehicle. This has been a very cold winter compared to the last ten years we have been here.
    Thanks for the information!

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    I used to run my block heaters on a switch (back in the day when I needed them). I'd wake up, flip the switch and go make coffee - rarely ran them more than an hour. Doesn't help your problem, but I don't think you're gaining anything by running it longer (unless your stock ownership in your utility offsets your electric bill). ;)

    I rarely idled my cars in Anchorage either; just drove out of the neighbor slowly (I used a cabin heater to clean the windows since I didn't have a garage when I lived up there).

    Too much water in the diesel maybe?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Do you notice any difference with the Amsoil ATF? I have used it in other cars and the trans worked better when cold.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I think just about everyone in the forum has had their Liberty CRD in the shop more than once.

    The more I read the complaints, the more I feel that the service department at that particular dealership is to blame more than the Jeep itself. I put partial blame on Chrysler too for not doing more testing before bringing the CRD to this country.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    You can clean the sensor easily. Just make sure you have enough light because there is a 20mm long M5 screw with a flat washer to hold the sensor against the manifold. This is very close to the firewall, meaning difficult to illuminate and to get your hands around the job.

    First, disconnect the common rail and the boost sensors.

    I used a normal 4mm hex key on it's long side to reach behind the wiring harness and the engine cover holding structure. A small tube or box wrench is a good way to twist the hex key. The screw is quite tight and "snaps" as it gets undone.

    Once the screw gets freed from the thread, it can fall behind the engine if you don't pay attention and you won't find it anymore. The screw is made of stainless steel, so forget about the magnet to pick it up.

    Remove the screw and washer before twisting the sensor to remove it.

    Put the screw and washer on the sensor to put it back. Normally there is no problem to insert the sensor while holding the screw and washer with a finger.

    Reconnect both sensors.

    That's it. :shades:
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    couldn't tell a difference but have ran amsoil for over twenty five years in every thing
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Well, my 03/05 version has been in the shop zero times. My previous Mitsubishi Montero got stuck in the treadmill of the local dealer's shop. The guys who actually turn wrenches in dealer shops are notoriously low on talent and sometimes attention to detail. My best advice is to get your Libby CRD whipped into shape by a competent mechanic somewhere, anywhere, then stay away from most dealerships.
  • budsjpbudsjp Member Posts: 25
    Was at the dealer yesterday for an oil change and mentioned I had not yet received my recall letter for the F37 - he checked the computer and confirmed mine is on the recall list. Then, he told me he was at a Chrysler seminar in Atlanta last week and learned the experience so far is that more problems occur after the recall is done than before and perhaps some further "fix" will be announced soon though he said "you didn't hear this from me." I'm continuing to hold off doing the recall!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have used the Amsoil ATF fluid in several Chrysler products and have noticed a difference, especially when the temps are below 20F. The trans shifts more smoothly when cold and does not seem to hang like it does in the first mile or two as it presently does.

    A bunch of years ago, we put Amsoil ATF in an Eagle Premier. What a difference it made. Shifts were real smooth and quick at any temperature. I used it in my 1993 Dodge Dakota and the trans felt better too.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Did the tech happen to mention what kind of issues were occurring after F37 was done? I have had it done and my CRD is just fine.
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    Mine is now stalling when approaching a stop before the transmission is hot. It seems to not be making the 2-1 downshift, shoving it in too low of rpms and stalling out or causing a severe shudder.

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Is it really cold where you are? When it is really cold, it is the first couple of upshifts (1 to 2) that are stiff and harsh. No issue with the downshift though. Could be that the clutch in the TC is not releasing correctly or else the trans fluid does not like the cold.

    I have 16.5K on my CRD and will be changing over to a straight synthetic trans fluid shortly.

    My wife's 1998 Chrysler Concorde has the A604 and behaves in a similar manner for the first mile or two when it is fairly cold outside (stiff shift, sometimes will not shift). We have ATF+4 in there too so I am inclined to think that the fluid is the problem.
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    Deffinately consider getting a module. I like the SP Diesel (out of 6 companies making them for the CRD) best because it has a Fuel Economy mode, might cost $500, shop wisely on Ebay, mine came with Boost Pressure and Fuel Pressure display. Last trip I took across the Kansas plans I got 33 mpg fully loaded with some bulky luggage ontop and 5 family members inside. The SP 90 horse power version gives you 150 extra torque putting your total way over standard V8s even some with a HEMI. Pulling is also much easier with the module, alot less shifting especially around roads here in Colorado where the speed limit is 75 and your pushing 70 to keep from getting your trailer rear ended and going up and down hills you wanna choose the HO (10 total power choices with on the fly selection) mode to give you the maximum torque output, anything less and you will be shifting alot from 5th to 4th, even with Overdrive disabled.

    Oh one other thing that made a huge difference in my highway mileage, while not towing, was since the windshield is soo freakin straight up and down half the time at 70 I could not get my wipers to wipe anything, so with a full height bug shield it throws the wind up to the top of the window and I am pretty sure that I have been getting 1-1.5 mpg better mileage because of it. You could also find a runner and follow him to prevent speed tickets, which is a huge wind bonus usually bumping me 2mpg higher even if its a small car and their 5 lengths ahead.. ;)
    I swear Jeep must not own a "wind tunnel", and prob have never heard of a little thing called aerodynamics... Shape the CRD like a Prius while keeping the 8 inches clearance and I can bet the CRD still blows it away MPG wise.. just my 2 cents there. Peace
  • budsjpbudsjp Member Posts: 25
    No,I'm sorry he didn't but I'm not sure the Atlanta conversation was that specific - my sense was the subject did not arise in the formal portion of the seminar.
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    I bought my CRD used from a dealer. After 3,000 miles I went to get the oil changed and was told they could not get the drain plug (Steel) back in and that during the previous oil change the drain plug was put in too tight. The oil pan is Aluminum and anything over 20 PSI with a steel plug will damage the pan irreversably.

    The dealer had no record of the previous oil change so I couldnt get someone else to pay for it. Turns out the oil pan itself is $260 and the labor to install for a professional is 5 hours for a total of $800 from a dealer to replace. Also dont use the oversized plug because it just makes the whole bigger causing rips in the pan along the sides and will force you to replace the pan anyway after 2 more oil changes and the dealer will charge $30-40 to install not including Oil replacement. Only thing I might suggest in lue of Pan replacement is the universal rubber plug that you can install yourself with the twist of a wing nut using your hand lasting for at least 4 or 5 changes and only costs $2 with free labor.

  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    biodesieldude: They make heocoil(spelling) that you could get put in and save all the expense of the way you mentioned. Why does the selling dealer not have a record of the oil change they did? You didn't buy this CRD with out it being current with the service did you?
    If you did not buy a Service Warranty Contract then you are going to regret the day you didn't sooner than you think. If you had this would have been taken care of.

  • supertechsupertech Member Posts: 32
    Sounds fishy to me. It would be very hard to over torque the drain plug enough to bother the oil pan. The drain plug drive is a 8 mm hex. The tool to drive it would strip or shear before the 19 mm drain plug should have a problem. Sounds like they ruined the drain plug trying to remove it. Do not replace the oil pan. Instead I have used a pipe tap and tapperd pipe plug with thread sealant to repair this problem in other cars. If this really does have a stripped hole in the pan.First get another tech to look at it
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    mine needs the tranny work too,had it in before Christmas and they were supposed to order a torque converter.I guess they forgot but the truck is running great,seems to get better and better all the time.Kinda scared to get it done right away,might wait and see if the tranny suffers a catastrophic failure first.I'll wait and see if there are any more fixes post tranny work.still like this little beast.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    What brand bug shield do you have ?
  • damficaredamficare Member Posts: 2
    Greetings Siberia,

    Thanks for the thoughts. I actually do need the capabilities of the CRD, except for the off-road part. I had an Xterra, before Hurricane Charlie decided to total it. It got horrible mileage. I then bought a Murano and it gets only 20 on the road and has little in the way of "truck" capabilities (great vehicle though).

    If Chrysler/Benz will stick behind the CRD with fewer than 9000 in the USA (I am told) on the road, then the risk is lessened, for sure. I am due to take the CRD for a full day this week and put it through its paces. Stay tuned.
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Member Posts: 51
    I had an opportunity to do some serious off-roading when my right front tire fell off the edge of the driveway. I am guessing that the drop was about 8-10 inches, enough to scrape the bottom of the vehicle. In full-time four wheel drive I could not pull straight forward or backward to provide any running room to back on out, and I could hear my wheels spinning on the pavement. Then I turned the steering wheel all the way to the right to present as much tread surface to the edge of the drop as possible. Thank goodness for the low end torque of the CRD. The Liberty just climbed right out without any wheels spinning. I love this little guy!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Sounds like someone cross threaded the plug and screwed up the oil pan. The plug is a little hard to remove and I am guessing that it was designed that way. Is there any way you could re-tap the hole and install a slightly larger plug without damaging the oil pan fatally?
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    The book says to torque it to 30psi, but from the guys I spoke with who seem to have tons of experience say anything over 20psi is pushing it too far and absolutely unecessary, 20 should hold it just fine. Any normal person could easily put 50 or 60psi cranking it around until you cant move it anymore. Just depends on the type of wrench and how much leverage you have.

    Pipe tape wont work when there are no threads inside to grab onto. I stuck my fingure in there and it felt smooth where there should be threads, so the only way it could have happened on the way out was if it was in too tight.
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    Ventshade, the Lund bug shield just didnt come up high enough and I didnt think it would make as much of a difference. This one comes up straight to push the wind up the windshield evenly, even though it has to curve around the headlights.

    I picked it up cheap from autoparts warehouse on Ebay: ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001
  • supertechsupertech Member Posts: 32
    biodieseldude, I used pipe tap not tape. This is very common plumbing seal used with a pipe plug. the tapers tap easily cuts new threads into the aluminum pan with out needing to drill the hole any larger
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    So if there are currently no threads does it make new threads with new material or carve new threads into the existing material?
  • patscrdpatscrd Member Posts: 7
    Have you had the f37 rework done since january 5 th ? .We have had nothing but problems with the shift points and jeep says they have done all they can . It now stays in 3rd gear from 30mph to 53mph till it shifts again ,is it just us or is every one else having the same situation since the recall ? Top end is awsome 53 to 80 but anything below 53 is alot of rpms but slow go.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Hi Biodieseldude,

    I have been struggling with what I can tell you that might help and it's not much. One thing is that if the threads were clear on the drain plug it suggests that the plug was ove tightened and the threads were just pulled out of the pan. If aluminum was embedded in the threads and difficult to remove it suggests that the drain plug was badly seized in the pan and pulled out the threads when it was removed. In the first case the aluminum comes out of the plug threads easily. In the second case the aluminum in the threads is difficult to remove.

    I would take the drain plug to some big parts stores and see what is available in plugs, oversized plugs, hellicoils, taps, etc. You might luck out and find just what you need.
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    I have not had f37 done yet, I just bought 3 months ago, but am anxiously awaiting for the parts to come in for the Ball joint, he said 2 more weeks, then I get all 3 recalls done at the same time. It does suck bad when you cant "cruise" until over 50, 4th is undetectable at 40mph since it is not much bigger than 3rd gear, 2nd is usually a hard clunk for me at 20. Additional symptoms are if you set the cruise at 45 and being in a high gear it will speed up and slow down then speed up again like a yoyo. I normally suspect it to shift to crusing 5th when you lower the throttle and are going 43+, you dont always want overdrive in town but at least 5th gear. The overdrive shifts at 62-63 just like 5th does at 52-53. The only thing I can think of is they gave it a high tow rating and made some changes to the transmission to accomodate, I can see these changes helping to save the transmission when pulling up to 7500# like it says in the manual if you use a weight distribution hitch, and 5000# normal. What would make sense is a simple swith from haul to normal driving, just like the overdrive button that way for 90% or more of our driving could use regular shift patterns so we could get better mileage... As soon as i get the recalls done I will write back if there is any change in the way they are doing f37. I really hope so...
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    After searching and attempting to find our why there is a loss of torque when I go to pass at 60mph, I Found out why. As we who have had the F37 done, were notified they would be a loss of torque but the amount of loss we weren't told how much loss it would be. Well the loss is 20 foot pounds. This is noticeable at times when torque is needed for uphill towing or even passing between 60 to 70 mph.
    Now for a honest confession, I made a big mistake yesterday! There are two fuel hoses next to each other, the Diesel and the Kerosine. Yep, you guessed it! I put 10 gallons of Kerosine in our diesel, that was a dumb mistake!
    The Yark Dealership with the Tec that should be called Mr. CRD said to add lubercant to the fuel and it should be ok. The problem with kerosine is little lubercation can damage the fuel pump. The Tec said this happens a lot, but most of the time it's gasoline people put in by mistake, and that does do damage.
    Also the filter for the booster sensor is just back of the air filter and NOT on the firewall as I was told by the DCX people.
    The tec at Yark again told me NOT to go beyond 32,000 miles with out changing the water/fuel filter. He said the filter does more than just filter water. He said by the nature of diesel it had some junk in it and this filter catches this as well. Yark charges $76. to change this filter. Yark sold more CRD liberty's than anyone in the US, 20. That's not a huge amount of CRD's, but gives us a reason why so many tec's are lacking experience with these CRD's. The Tec stated that these V M Motori CRD's are mush better off if we do NOT use Cetane boosters or anti-gel, lubercating liquid additives. Honestly I don't know with every person who has worked on the CRD has a opinion, and they very seldom have the same advice.
    Yesterday at 4F when I started the CRD is sounded like a gasoline engine with a broken rod beating against the block. So I think I will use the block heater when it's going to be that cold.

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I find that my CRD starts more easily when I use cetane improver and makes less racket when starting in the cold. I am using the one from Amsoil.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520

    The Boost Pressure Solenoid Filter (looks like a small gasoline fuel filter) is on the passenger side behind the air filter assembly. Some of us have been calling it the Boost Control Filter.

    The Boost Pressure Sensor (one that needs cleaning) is on the driver side on top of the intake manifold close to the firewall. Maybe this is where some of the confusion came from.

    Good luck with your 50/50 mix of #2 and kerosene. I doubt you will do any permanent damage with one tank full if you add extra lubercant. My wife refuses to ever fuel up the CRD because she is afraid she might accidently put in gasoline some day. In your case maybe you should let the wife do it. :)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The 'gasoline like' filter of the passenger side sucks engine fumes every time the vanes of the turbo need to move. This filter is important to replace or check often because it will delay the response of the vacuum actuator (that allows fast change of the boost pressure). I would have tapped it directly into the air filter box, before the filter. This way it could sniff air from outside.
  • butchmanbutchman Member Posts: 24
    Because of the temperatures in MI, I also use Cetane/Anti-Gel, mostly during the winter and in conservative moderation. I buy the quart size (treats 100 gallons) and then just give the CRD 1 "gulp" for every full tank. I have 32K miles and have not had a problem with the engine. However, about 18K ago in warm months I had the engine light come on (1 and only time so far) and Tech said code was EGR. They ordered it. I went home and gave the CRD 1 gulp of Cetane. After a few miles the light went out. I called and cancelled appointment. Engine Light has not been on since. My theory is that the Cetane can help do a little cleaning. But, use in moderation and not with every tank unless it is so cold you have to during certain months. I have not checked the boost sensor or filter yet and I really appreciate the info you have posted on this!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Cetane is really important in diesel engines. Higher cetane fuel gives a cleaner burn, thus less PM, fewer emissions, more power and improved FE.

    Domestic diesel is a little better than swill. It still has a significant amount of aromatic compounds in the mixture. These compounds contribute some energy to the fuel, but they burn more slowly, contribute to PM and NOx and their combustion product(s), PAHs are carcinogenic. In the EU, most of these aromatics have been removed in the refining process. CARB diesel also has fewer aromatic compounds in the fuel than does non-CARB diesel fuel. The use of biodiesel yields no PAHs or ever so little of them when used as fuel.
  • budsjpbudsjp Member Posts: 25
    Hope this is appropriate for this forum: I've been getting my oil changed in my Liberty CRD at dealer A and 0W40 Mobil synthetic has cost me $6.15/quart. I just had an oil change at dealer B and the price was $12.15/quart! The explanation at dealer B was they buy the oil by the can and figure dealer A must be buying it in bulk to sell it for half their price. What's the experience of others on the cost of this oil- am I being taken by dealer B?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may be interested in Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2.

    tidester, host
  • butchmanbutchman Member Posts: 24
    For last year and a half I have bought Mobile 0W40 at Advanced Auto by the quart for just under $6.00 per quart. They also carry two different Purolator oil filters and the air filter. Don't you just love those Dealer B's!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    siberia: Yesterday I put 48 oz of the PS lubercant-anti-gell-cetane booster in the fuel tank before I even started the engine. I did not notice any change what so ever. The Service writer said our CRD was the has the best get up and go of any her has driven. I said we had better pep before the F37. If what he said was true then I do not understand.

    We had an appointment at the selling dealerships Service dept. They replaced all 4 doors rubber gaskets. It helped the back doors but the front doors were just as noisy as before. They ordered window gaskets for the two front windows. So we shall see.

    The service writer whom we have been at odds with, gave me a drawing of this filter. The exact name is called "ELECTRIC TURBO MODULATOR FILTER". He gave me the full shop service manual drawing. That was impressive, but I think he expected me and my bride to kiss his hands! The filter was like new. This service writer is a snob right out of the "Know it all school". He also warned us that if we did not change the differentials fluid asap our warranty would be void! (this guy won't give up) My wife told him that schedule A did not even schedule any change of these fluids. But it does say to inspect the fluids at 62,250 miles. In schedule B only the two differentials get changed every 12,500 miles and the transfer case fluid gets cahnged at 62.500 miles. The service writer did not agree with the book!

    Just as a note of confusion for all us CRD owners here is what Mr. Nicola Frabetti, V M Motori S.p.A. Service Dept. said about oil. I had asked him what weight oil to use by V M Motori. "on the owner's manual for European market it is recommended 10W-40 oil. Oils of the SAE5W-40 grade are preferred when minimum temperatures consistently fall below -10 C. Here attache you have a document that indicates which diesel can be used:" The nine pages state than no part of the engine or its attached parts will be under warranty if Bio fuel higher than B-5 is used. The pages go in to technical detail why any fuel above B-5 is not acceptable.

    Is it any wonder that if the manufacturer of the engine and DCX can't agree, then how can we argue with a point when the Owners Manual and the Maintenance Logbook Schedule don't coincide service requirements?

    I will stick with the Mobile 1 5-40W, but as for me no more 0-40W. at least it is an oil that splits the difference.

    Anyone with suggestions of when to change the front and rear axle fluids?

  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, the cultural gap between the two continents is desperately shrinking:
    "ELECTRIC TURBO MODULATOR FILTER" resembles the Refuge of the snail I once read on a menu to define a tossed salad ;)
    The differentials and transfer case have synthetic oil rated "for life". In practice a vehicle survives ~6 years before ending wrecked in a scrap yard. This number used to be 3 years in France and lead the auto industry to install unplated electrical contacts to save galvanic treatment costs. Cars became better, lasted longer and had many electrical problems. Customers went towards foreign builders that had not saved the extra cent.
    My service technician told me to check for leaks on the ground and "smell" the oil when inspecting the level. It should never have an unpleasant smell (like fermentation). You see, the approach is quite different here and I gave this guy a few bottles of Champagne for his honesty.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520

    “Boost Pressure Solenoid Filter” is in the owner’s manual while “Electric Turbo Modulator Filter” is in the shop manual. Scooby says, Huh? I think I prefer “Sipping” Boost Control Filter. The SBCF on my CRD looks pristine too.
  • biodieseldudebiodieseldude Member Posts: 27
    0w40 Mobile One from the store (Autozone) is the most expensive you can buy, by the quart anyway and around here in Colorado its about $6 per quart. That's not bulk since they only had a few quarts and rarely sell it as when I bought the last few they had, those bottles were old and dusty. The other dealer is just telling you want you might believe so you will go away and not cause any problems, otherwise the survice advisor doesn't really have any control over the price, I know I used to work at one.
  • steve05steve05 Member Posts: 52
    Hello Farout! I have also experienced a lack of passing power post-F37. Also, the check engine light can't decide its status - on one day, off the next, sometimes on and off while driving, in the meantime, 10 mpg. I have had air noise from the rear drivers door for about a month. Did you get any grief from the dealer about asking them to change those gaskets?
  • scruffyrubiconscruffyrubicon Member Posts: 5
    I posted this in the Liberty Maintenance as well:

    I've been following this discussion for a while now. My 2006 CRD just had the F37 recall about 2 weeks ago.

    Before the recall I got an intermittant "shudder" as I came off of an acceleration up to hiway speeds(above 60mph). The vehicle had been in twice for this problem before the recall. The first time they didn't even drive it, they just hooked the computer up and cleared "Error Codes" caused by the transmission. The second visit the stated could not duplicate. Funny it did it on the way home. The shudder got worse over time. The recall came and I had it done. Now I get intermittant hard shifting at the same area (60 MPH), reduced fuel economy, reduced power at highway speeds, the engine is louder than it was before, more smoking and it starts like a big diesel truck if it is cold outside (never did this before)(sounds like the little CRD is going to come apart for about the first 10 to 15 seconds). Anyway it is going back on Friday. The dealer agrees that they may have messed something up. My wife normally drives this vehicle and she notices these problems. I drive it rarely so I really notice if there is a change in the vehicles behavior. We sat down and made seperate lists of what we noticed about the vehicle after the recall and both of us had almost identical lists. She fuels it up so her list included the fuel economy drop.

    I also had a problem with the tilt steering recently. You know how you tend to settle into the seat over a drive and pull yourself up. I placed a small amount of force on the steering wheel to pull myself up and the steering wheel dropped to the lowest setting. I thought maybe the tension lever may have been loose so I tried it again but it was tight and the wheel drops without much effort. Very dangerous. The wheel will wobble when it drops. Don't get caught off guard!
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Scruffy..... It sound to me like bad fuel and restricted fuel filter. Do not forget to clean your sensor at the intake.

  • jomuthajomutha Member Posts: 1
    My '05 CRD just had f37 done as well, 9 times in shop since may 05 for glow plugs,egr,turbo hose loose, code resets, cd player! etc. Now mileage and performance is down noticably, Anyone else notice the tach flopping from 1k to past 3km and back like a wet noodle when any acceleration is done? seems too loose to be accurate, but If I werent' reluctant to be hosed on a trade, I dump this for a mariner hybrid and get the tax credit! :mad:
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    I replaced my fuel filter and had improvements with starting, shudder and overall smoothness. My personal opinion is that the replacement interval for the filter is too long on even the most aggressive maintenance schedule.
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