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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    I use a small plastic bag to catch the fuel when changing mine out. It's not messy if you take your time. I put the new one on dry with a little fuel to lubricate the seal when installing. It's easy to prime this thing with the hand primer. Just make sure you bleed it when your done. I also put a fuel check valve on the supply line to the filter to stop drain back to the tank. I forget the part number but any good parts store should have one that fits.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: How long does it take for you to change out R&R the filter?
    Also does the Europeian CRD have the same computer that controls EVERYTHING ? I am questioning this because I don't think the CRD's over there are experiencing the problems we do here. I am not convinced that our diesel fuel here ia much less in quality that that which you buy there. It is hard to for me to understand why there seems to be so many recalls and reflashes for this beast. I have never had a vehicle that I have had to return for all these things that DCX seems to feel are so important to redo. This does not make or build consumer confidence, at least from my view point. I really resent being a "test market" or as Dr. Z has said an "experiment" for DCX. That was really lame of him to make this statement in a press release. How often do you change your water/fuel filter? Does the filter fit in a canister or is it like the oil filter that we just screw on? Thanks for your information.

    Farout
  • jc7349jc7349 Posts: 17
    Just picked up my CRD after the F37 service. Low end torque ruduced. Most likely due to the softer Torque converter and programming.

    Should make towing more difficult this spring. Below 40 mph engine reves over 2500 when towing more like a gas engine to reduce torquw on the trans. Remember this engine produces all it's torque between 1800-2100 RPM then starts to drop off significantly.

    Shift points appear to be the same as before when I had the torque converter, trans pump, coolers and valve body replaced last July.

    So in my opinion: Normal use should not see much difference except a small decrease in fuel mileage.

    However for owners that use their vehicle for towing. Less capable then before especially at speeds where the converter isn't locked.

    It's the price you pay when proper planning and design doesn't occur before bring a product to market. Remember most of the european models had the 2.5l version less torque to the trans.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jc7349: I would drive for maybe 200 miles and if this is still the case take it back. Ther has been some who have had problems after the reflash, and DCX is attempting to resolve this issue. (don't hold your breath)
    Had mine done and have had no priblems. Trailer has no noticeable effect. I have no drop off in torque at all. However I have no real long hauls to tote a TT up. I just don't think somethinh is right. zoomy2 hauls a TT but have not heard if he has noticed any loss yet.

    Farout
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    Playgabe, I'm with you but am not sure we didn't sign away our rights to ignore specific recalls. I tend to side with a previous poster who said that the subect parts will loose warranty coverage if we do not respond for "the fix". Would really like a definitive answer on that. Anyone ?
  • Not quite off topic, but has anyone heard if the Grand Cherokee CRD models are shipping yet. I recall that January was to be the time for the GC diesel, but have not seen any announcements yet.

    Just to be sure that I not kicked off for being off topic: May 05 Liberty CRD, 26,000 miles, averaging around 20 mpg except on the road where I have seen as much as 25 mpg, EGR number six and TC number two, Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor 225-70R16, on the DCX Essential Care plan where my oil changes only cost me less than $25.00, ULSD just now coming to the Shell station at the corner.
  • jc7349jc7349 Posts: 17
    Farout, Just curious I also notice increased turbo wine or noise after the recall. More like a growl actually. Did you notice any such thing.

    I was supposed to pick the vehicle up the next day however around 4pm that day they said how about tomorrow they were having a problem with the TCM accepting the flash !

    While I was there I had the Fuel filter replaced, opened the hood and found diesel all over the engine compartment. A little pool on the filter lip even under the intercooler hose on the otherside by the radiator. Guess they were just too lazy to wipe everything down. This dealership has been pretty good, I was surprized.

    Thanks,
    Jeff
  • When in for my F37 (three weeks of waiting for a transmission controller to arrive while it sat on the dealer lot) I spoke with the Manager of the Service department. My 5 star dealer has 4 fully trained diesel techs and they have just returned from classes on the GC 3.0 liter. They have a little more training. He did not indicate exactly when they would arrive but in discussions with them about buying back my Liberty, they indicated that getting into a Grand Cherokee CRD was possible by mid February. When I asked for a date they wouldn't give one. They originally expected a controller to arrive for me early February and I would be eligible for a nearly complete buyback according to lemonlaw in my state.

    However, like magic, a controller appeared in 2 days.

    I have my Liberty back and I prefer how it shifts now compared to what I had before. I'm keeping it. It is crisper and since the shift point (for me) of the top lockup moved from 58 to 61 mph, I don't go in and out of it so much since the traffic here seems to stay below 60 but above 55. Before I'd be going in and out of top lock up practically once every mile on these crowded freeways. :)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout, I would say no longer than 15 minutes taking my time once the engine cover is off. When I take the complete filter out, there is no hesitation for keeping the engine clean.
    I don't use a vice, I just clamp the filter fixation wings to the corner of a table with two joiner clamps and leave my waste oil pan closely underneath. The filter cartridge is a spin-on type like yours and it's very easy to grab and unscrew because you reach all around it. The recuperated fuel is later used for cleaning the tools and pan ;)

    Do we have the same computer here: yes.
    Do we have the same problems here: yes.
    Have europeans lost confidence in local cars: yes, they buy more asian cars now.

    What would I buy next?
    To replace my Jeep: I have no clue and no temptation besides the Wrangler four door CRD automatic (in 10 years from now!). To my opinion the Wrangler would have to feature the SelecTrac to give the same feeling as the Liberty plus chromed steel bumpers to frighten a few 'weardows'. I prefer to repair my Liberty rather than changing for something again more sophisticated.

    To replace my little Toyota: another Toyota assembled in the EU.

    How often do I replace the fuel filter? By default every two years or 45,000 miles as long as there is no water trapped in the bowl. But I regularly inspect the bowl with my flashlight illuminating from underneath. This is quite convenient.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    goodcrd, I learned that being efficient sometimes took a bit more preparation. When I wrote post #612, I religiously explained the sequence of service my Jeep received. I am very lucky to have found such a good technician only 30 miles away from my local dealership, and if something ever goes wrong I will communicate with this person before doing any major repair. This is my understanding of confidence.
    He demonstrated the simplicity of removing the whole filter element, going to the bench and working freely. We can even stop and not stress to answer the phone :blush:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jc7349: No, there was no difference that we could tell. How many miles do you have? There is no way you need a filter until 25,000 miles unless the warning light came on. I don't plan on having it replaced until 32,000 miles or the light comes on.
    What the Tec did and leaving that mess is NOT GOOD. Fuel spilled all over like that is not good for some of the parts under the hood. Take it back, and show it to the Service Manager, and ask him or her, is it not right to expect this engine compartment to be returned as clean as it was when you brought it in! If it was not clean then ask then if the EPA allows fuel to be spilled all over the engine compartment That is a serious NO NO.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: I am amazed that you have the same computer controlled everything as we do! Has there been a good number of EGR valve's gone bad? Do you have the mess on the seat covers we do? Heck even air soils them I think. I have tried my wife's famous cleaning formula. Blue Coral cleaner did not even touch the stains.
    I wrote a LONG e-mail to customer assistance with a list of 8 things that are not up to par. Like the seals around the doors should like a wind storm and the front passengers window actually has such a gap in the seal you could not even light a match if your life was at stake. I got a lengthy e-mail back stating that they "were dismayed at the lack of quality" that I had brought to their attention. I am to hear from someone soon. I am not sure what soon is either. If anything happens I tell ya.

    Farout
  • jc7349jc7349 Posts: 17
    farout: I asked for the filter to be replace since I had about 24,miles on it. I cleaned it all up and wiped everything down. I didn't want to anything to catch fire or deteriorate any of the hoses and parts.
    Thanks for your response..

    jc7349
  • It went into the shop yesterday and they have an EGR on order. Does the EGR influence the operation of the turbo in any way? I can't see how this could affect the turbo unless the outer circumfrential set of vanes (variable) are adversely affecting the operation of the turbo, like braking the boost it was intended to create. The turbo sure sounds horrible at 2000-2500 rpm, dealer says when the EGR is disconnected, noise goes away, I can't confirm this as this is their observation only. Has anyone else experienced this with their bad EGR, or is yours replaced based on the MIL lighting up? On the bright side they rent me a car to drive, no asking, so thats good.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    I have almost 2000 miles since the F37 and a throttle position sensor change (it looks different that the original). Since the change I have averaged 23.9 mpg, using the fill-refill method.
    I thought there wasn't much change in torque, but I now think that the torque is down a bit, but I don't think it will effect pulling our 18'Zoom camping trailer. I would like to hook-up and do test tow but since the TT is wrapped in a large trap for winter it would be difficult. I will give feedback after I hook-up and do the first pull. :surprise:
  • That's why I did not have the recall done. Towing is the main reason for our Liberty along with the 19mpg then towing. The tech said I'd loose the towing power due to the reduction of torque on the tranny. Meaning the engine would act like a gas engine and shift when the pressure is put on the tranny meaning increased rpm and lower mpg. That's not acceptable to me. I paid for the diesel 295 ft. lbs. of torque nothing less. Is it our fault the tranny in some models can't handle the pressure? If they want to replace the tranny with one that will take the torque great. Until then I'm sticking to what I paid for. If the tranny goes out, I'll deal with Jeep on a full buy back then. I have 84 months or 70,000 miles until it's out of warranty.
  • budsjpbudsjp Posts: 25
    I have yet to receive the letter telling me to have the F-37 recall done; yet, I've checked the website and my vin is included (May 2005 build date). I'm hesitant to push the envelope given some of the negative comments about after-recall performance. Are there others in a similar position?
  • *****jc7349: No, there was no difference that we could tell. How many miles do you have? There is no way you need a filter until 25,000 miles unless the warning light came on. I don't plan on having it replaced until 32,000 miles or the light comes on. *****

    Farout,

    I definitely don't feel qualified to disagree with you, as you have done much more technical research on our CRD's than I have, but let me share my experience with my Chevy Duramax diesel.... GM recommends changing that filter every 15k miles (filter is of similar size, though designed differently). Jeep recommends every 25k, which makes sense considering the Duramax got about 17mpg and most of us get 22mpg with our CRD's (ie. more fuel passes thru the Duramax filter per mile, thus a shorter filter life). With every filter change, I could tell a difference in performance and in mileage. GM actually sent me a letter once offering me a FREE fuel filter replacement at the dealership. Why? These injectors are soooo expensive that it was cheaper to give everyone a free fuel filter than to replace even one injector under warranty on each truck. That drove home the message to me....I'm changing my filter on my CRD every 15k....to me, $37 is cheap insurance for my injectors (and I only have the 36k warranty). I'd hate to have to spend hundreds to replace an injector, when a $37 filter might have saved it. The light on the dash will tell you when you have water in the filter (which is easy to drain) but won't tell you how dirty the filter is.
    Happy Motoring Everyone!
    Twocycle2
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Hey Two,have you drained water off the filter?I find the drain screw tight as hell and fear snapping it off.As far as changing the filter,I agree,one tank of bad fuel can muck a filter up quick.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    playgabe,

    Just be careful, by not getting the F37 DCX may not warranty the transmission when it fails. The engine may still make 295ft-lbs at 1800 RPM but something less at lower rpm. I know it falls off fast, but high torque at lower RPM is harder on the transmission internals then the same torque at high RPM. I think DCX should tell us, as the owners, where they changed and how much they changed the torque curves. After all we are test subjects. I don't think DCX has a transmission that will take the 2.8L Turbo Diesel, the 545RFE is as close as they had. Look at other diesels with manuals and the HP and torque specifications are lower then the automatics versions.

    A manual transmission has a lot of emissions issues because of the greater variations of gearing and RPM as it is operator independent, funny this combination isn't available here. The automatic gear selection and the range of the engine's RPM can be controlled thus the emissions can be within the allowed EPA limits.
  • "I don't think DCX has a transmission that will take the 2.8L Turbo Diesel"

    Well....DCX puts automatics in the Dodge PUs with the Cummins TD with 610 ft/lbs of torque and 325 HP.

    "Look at other diesels with manuals and the HP and torque specifications are lower then the automatics versions."

    The HP and torque specs for the Dodge/Cummins are the same for the manual and automatic transmissions.

    Bruce
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    twocycle2: points well taken, thanks. I am not sure how many cyclenders the Chevy had or the ci. but with the water warning light it still should last until the 25,000 miles. For me the water.fuel filter cahnge is more than $100. and that is something I don't look forward to....ouch.


    Farout
  • jc7349jc7349 Posts: 17
    The fuel filter change cost me $36.00 for the filter and $90.00 for labor. 1hr. to change a fuel filter are you kidding me !!!!

    Totally to much for the labor !!!
  • *******Hey Two,have you drained water off the filter?I find the drain screw tight as hell and fear snapping it off.As far as changing the filter,I agree,one tank of bad fuel can muck a filter up quick. *****

    The valve is plastic, but unscrews counter-clockwise. There is a rubber washer/gasket that makes the seal between the plastic valve and the metal filter. Yours may just be on really tight. I would loosen it from below....crawl underneath just behind the driver's side front tire, disconnect the electrical connector that is plugged into the valve, and then twist the valve counter clockwise. As soon at it breaks loose, tighten it back, then crawl back up top so you don't drain fuel on yourself. You should be able to reach your hand back down there to loosen the valve again. The water will drain out first, if there is any.
    Good Luck!
    Twocycle2
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout, in my post #380 I had already written my Jeep had the finish of an old series-5 BMW. After 3 1/2 years it bears no stains, no leaks, no squeaks, it's dog resistant and fully coated with rust protection compound underneath. I still have the original (disconnected) EGR valve and ball joints. Give me 2 hours to clean it inside out and it will look like new.
    I think you are getting a better looking truck in NA. I have no paint on my fender extensions, military quality black tissue for my seat covers and a 'de-rated' engine according to VM brochure. LOL. I would have never thought that having something 'inferior' could make one feel so good. ;)
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: For me the rubber mat flooring would better fit in with our life style. We have a sticky mud and sometimes this lite reddish clay that can be a mess and hard to clean. The Sport in NA as no paint on the fender flares unless you buy a special limited production, like the 65th year Sport had the painted fender flares, but it also had some other goodies along with the flares. Two hours is what it would take to try and clean the seat stains, and they don't look much better. What do you use to clean the seats? I think the rubber seals on the doors, especially the front passengers side does not touch anything, there is a gap that really leaks air, and the darn thing is noisy on all four. I imagine because your European Jeeps are better at sealing as they do come to you by ship and perhaps they pay closer attention to the Jeep that go there. Our 1996 Dodge Neon looks very good for 12 years of ware and tare, and two teenagers learning to drive and the rest of the family using it when a crisis came up for them.
    What in the world is a "de-rated" engine? By the way after the f-37 was done I don't feel and difference..... yet!
    I am sure others would agree with me that having someone who lives in Europe is really neat.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    kellog13: It looks to me that perhaps no one knows for sure? I can't imagine that in some way that one does not effect the other, but again I am not sure.

    farout
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    drooperhaley,

    I wasn't necessary referring to just 2007 models. The torque is 650lb-ft with the auto and 610lb-ft with the manual for '07. DCX just got a new transmission from Asian (Japan) to handle the torque with the 6.7L Cummins for 2007. This new transmission is to go head-to-head with the Allison from GM. There have been years that the torque was less on the same brand Diesel truck with an automatic then with the manual. I don't believe the 545 RFE was ever placed behind the Cummins, mostly 47 & 48 RE's. The 47RE were used from 1994 to 2002 and the 48RE 2003 to 2006. The 545RFE is used with the 4.7L and 5.7L Hemi's in different vechiles. The 2.8L at 1200RPM has about 155 ft-lbs ot torque, more then most gas engines have today at the same RPM. The 5.7L Hemi has about 100 ft-lbs at this RPM.
  • Zoomy2,

    I was just trying to point out that in 2005 and 2006 which is the years the Liberty CRD was sold, DCX did in fact have automatic transmissions that would EASILY handle the torque of the CRD engine (the 48RE). They just chose not to design the vehicle for such a transmission and I believe they used a transmission that was not up to the job. Also, in 2005 and 2006, there was no difference in the specs for the Cummins engine that they put in the trucks with automatic transmissions and those with manual transmissions.

    DCX just plain screwed up the Liberty CRD in their haste to get it out.
  • I would like to get my hands on a used broke EGR Valve that gets replaced. Preferable one in one piece with the electric connector. Please email me to ucanfarm at hotmail dot com. I would be happy to pay for your shipping if you can talk a dealer out of the part. Thanks.
    Ucanfarm.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout, 'de-rated' in this case means less HP towards the red zone of the tachometer and 10% less torque in the lower revs where I can already spin my tires. I'm supposed to have only 150HP instead of 163 :sick: :sick:

    My seats are easy to clean: a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth are all I need. I never use detergents inside the truck because when a fabric or even a plastic is exposed to sunlight it reacts according to it's degree of exposure (also called cross reticulation for polymers). I prefer to use a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water to get rid of mud stains. Try it on all plastic surfaces specially around the steering column and near your feet. You don't need to brush mud stains on plastic liners, just let them soak first and come back a little later. Once a stain has soaked, it no longer grips to the surface. De-Ionized water mixed with 30% alcohol is ideal for doing this. Steam cleaners do the same thing with more efficiency and no need to mix alcohol or detergent. I found this mixture most interesting for cleaning door liners. They are usually fully roasted near the window and never see the sun near the speakers.
  • stbstb Posts: 31
    All seemed fine after the recall work, the shifts and engine seemed the same. Although I have experienced a stalling situation after cold start up. It only stalls after a stop and will shudder and stall. Once warm all is fine. It stalls only when engine is cold.
  • tjm3472tjm3472 Posts: 11
    Had the F37 recall and an oil change done at my "5 Star" dealer. They forgot to hook the 4 wheel drive back up after performing the recall and didn't tighten the oil filter enough. After cleaning up the oil spill on the garage floor and since I was out of town my wife returned to see if they could get the jobs done right. She said they acted condescendingly toward her, for instance asking "how would you know the 4 wheel drive isn't working?" I later called and told the saleperson that I've bought 2 cars from that I'll be looking for a new dealership and that's bad for him since my daughter graduates this spring and likes the Dodge Calibers.
  • rnaborsrnabors Posts: 25
    I recently had the F37 done. Shortly afterwords I drove almost 600 miles to attend a meeting. I can not tell any perceptible difference in horsepower or torque. The engine runs great and the transmission shifts very smoothly. By the way I also got 29 miles per gallon on my trip---I
    love this diesel!!!!!!!
    With only 11,000, or so, of these little babies made it would have been easy for DCX to have ignored us. I think DCX and my dealer has done an excellent job of looking after me.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    ucanfarm: The ONLY way to get a defective EGR that has been replaced under warranty is to pay for it for the amount the dealer gets from DCX to do the work and the valve it's self. This is a VERY expensive broken EGR valve to buy.
    You might be lucky enough to find one that has been totalled, and buy it from a salvage yard, but expect to pay high dollars for it. Hope you are able to get one.

    farout
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    drooperhaley,

    I'm not trying to defend DCX but maybe, just maybe, the 48RE was physically to large to fit into the Liberty chassis. This could have been what the engineers wanted but it wouldn't fit. Choice two, was the 545RFE.

    I know when mines goes I am going to replace it with an aftermarket like B&M or some other brand, not an DCX unit. I pull a 4400 pound camper, so I too will watch the tranny closely. I do know people who have RAMs & Dakotas with the 545RFE transmission and of course a gas engine pulling 25'+ campers without tranny problems... much heavier load then the CRD can pull.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Zoomy.... MY f37 was smooth CRD works great; Only complain is that my top counter said that i am on the 20 to 24 mpg bracket but when i see the tank gage it seen to me that i am using more diesel than that. After the F37 is gone i think that all the complain will go. ULSD will fix the EGR valve and we will fade away.

    Nescosmo.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    fuel in the winter has been cut or thinned to improve flow you will lose about one to to miles per gallon
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    I know I'll be one of the last holdouts on F-37. I tow lots, have really learned to drive Libby for the best economy and power, and also have reservations about the recall degrading its performance.

    Not getting F-37'd and having transmission failure would be an interesting debacle. If Daimler-Chrysler couldn't show that the recall was without a penalty to a particular owner (such as one who tows lots), what would their case be for refusing warranty coverage? Need to review all that paperwork we signed, I suppose. But, just compensation should be part of the equation, it seems.

    From everything I hear, fuel economy will tank when towing over 3k# after the service because of the substantially higher revs required :lemon: .
  • I wish that my transmission shifted as smoothely as it did before the f37. I've haven't quite driven it 500 miles for the computer to sort everything out. I am not sure which combo but it definitely shifts harder when progressing from 1-2 or 2-3. Before f37, it shifted into 5-OD at 57 mph and now it waits until 62-63 mph. Before I could back it down (with cruise conmtrol especially) down to 56mph before it would kick out of OD and now this downshift threshold is 1-2 mph higher (57-58 mph). Because of the higher revving (I think), the last Overdrive shift (5OD) is not as smoothe.

    Other than that, it seems fine. No noticeable loss in power. If this board did not "focus" my attention so much, I probably would have thought the higher mph and rpm shifts to be my imagination.

    I had the #4 glow plug replaced at the same time and now it takes longer to start. Yes, it is colder now, but it wasn't last week and the Jeep was still harder to start. Any pointers on this would be helpful. I use only 51 cetane ULSD or 51 cetane 500ppm, 2% biodiesel.

    Reporting in,
    Boiler
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi Steve,
    I'm coming back to this filter topic where you wrote:
    "NOT TO BE USED IN ANY 2007 VEHICLE OPERATING ON ANY PUBLIC ROADWAY."
    I pulled out my MANN paper air filter and observed it had swelled and grown a thick layer of residue after 10,000 miles. This paper filter media is not as good as I would have expected. Perhaps this explains why you are advised not to use it. The engine went into a slow degradation of it's performance, like hypothermia, and since I re installed my K&N it's as peppy as it was the first day. But it did block a lot of stuff out :)
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout... I born in the tropics and all my life been here.
    The first time that I touch snow was when i was 40 years old and ever since has wander a few things from the winter peaple.
    Every time that there is a winter storm and peaple get stranded for days in the house at such a low temp, always wander how the toilet flush at such low temp, how do you bath with that temp, do you save water or you drink melt snow, sorry! this sound stupid but to me these things are very ? when you are from the tropics.
    Hope you are doing ok.

    Nescosmo.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That's just a bit off topic but the answer to your question is that water lines are generally underground where the temperature stays above the freezing point. Of course, home interiors are heated. On rare occasions, extreme cold can cause water in the pipes to freeze (and, therefore, break the pipes) as a result of improper installation.

    tidester, host
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Thank you Tidester sory for the off track but i did learn something today that was to me very important.

    Nescosmo.
  • fustfust Posts: 29
    Does any one have written instructions or a service manual which describes the proper procedures for replacing the fuel filter , any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
  • Yes, it is a bit off-topic but it never ceases to amaze me that a guy from the Midwest, France, Canada, East/West Coast and even a few posts from Greece can openly discuss the same vehicle.

    I was in college when the first .jpg pictures were posted and distributed around the world. That was weird. Now I take it for granted.

    The fact that I am corresponding and taking advice from guys (and gals) from all points of the globe is truly a feat of humanity.

    Caribou, Farout, et al... keep up the good work!

    Boiler
  • On replacing the fuel filter.

    First move the big vacuum hose out of the way (remove it from the brake booster and lay it aside.

    Then remove the two fasteners holding the filter mount to the firewall. Then remove the three plugs for the sensors. You may only need to remove the one plug that actually attaches to the filter, but I like to get stuff that's easy to remove out of the way.

    Now you can apply a filter strap wrench to unscrew the filter from the filter mount. Be careful. This thing is full diesel fuel. You will want to dump and dispose of the fuel in a proper manner.

    Unscrew the and retain the fitting from the bottom of the filter. Do this over your drain pan since diesel fuel will drain from the hole on the bottom of the filter.

    Use the fitting from the bottom of the old filter for the bottom of the new filter. Discard the fitting that came on the new filter. Spread a little oil on the ring seal at the top of the filter and reverse the removal steps to reassemble and fasten to the firewall.

    Once you have everything back together, pump the hand pump on the filter mount until it starts to press hard. Holding a rag over the opening of the grey bleed valve, loosen the bleed valve. Retighten the bleed valve and redo the bleed procedure until there is no air spitting out of the bleed valve; all you will see coming out is fuel.

    Start the engine, and check the filter assembly for leaks.

    You have now saved yourself about $80 in labor at the dealer.
  • Oh yeah. Don't forget to put the vacuum hose back on the brake booster.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    corresponding and taking advice from guys (and gals) from all points of the globe

    I remember back in the early 90's a friend was on some health bulletin board and he "diagnosed" tick fever in someone on the East coast. She had forgotten that she had vacationed in the Rocky Mountains several months before. Her docs back East had been scratching their heads.

    Maybe one of these days we'll just argue about the cars and stuff online and leave the guns in the closet. :surprise:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi Boiller,
    Don't forget to mention "renegader" from the Czek Republic who drives a 2.5 Liter CRD manual, "fredl1" from South Africa and "actarus" from Italy.

    - Did you know that I work where the 'world wide web' was born?

    - Could you imagine that when an interesting question was brought up, someone out there could act as a relay and search for information? (different people, cultures and habits, but we all use credit cards...)

    We live on a small planet today, and this can become tough for non-reactive car builders and all those who make profit by deforming or delaying reality. :shades:
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