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Comments
Dealers are probably less likely to deal for invoice on 07's. That said, some folks are getting good deals on 07's too.
Really depends on the individual and whether people want to spend the extra $$ for the 07.
p.s. it helps readers if you don't use all CAPS.
I have gotten quotes for 2006 tl with navi from 33100 to 33300 OTD
and a 2007 tl with navi 36900 otd
He said there was probably a few hundred more that I could get off, but any more than that would mean a loss for them. The price of $29,705 and $28,650 are amazing deals. I can't imagine how they can sell for that low.
I think I'll search the DC area next.
Remember dealer hold back is 3% of the base MSRP. So 3% of 33325 is ~1000. So add that to the 2000 incentive = ~3000.
So TL w/ Nav invoice is 32,205 - 3000 = $29205.
So at $30900 the dealership is still making ~1695.
At $29705 -> ~500
At $29705 -> ~445
I ended buying a 2006 Artic/Ebony TL Navi and 6speed
I had 3 dealers I was dealing with
1) Niello Sac...they decide to change the quote on me...Made it higher.
2) Hopkins Acura...they also decide to change the quote from 33100 to 33438
So I ended up buying from Acura stockton....They actually gave me a cheaper price than the quote from the email
from 33344 to 33100 OTD....Im a happy camper now...
So technically it probably doesn't mean a loss for them, but it may mean after expense profits are minimal.
Personally, I don't feel bad if they don't profit..
Based on what I see here, I may have overpaid a little, but I got the color and transmission I was looking for and the inventory seems to be drying up quickly.
Can't wait to pick it up.
$30,500 seems to be about right for an auto. For the manual, then you could have gone a little lower. I got a quote for a manual 06 w/navi for $29,6XX.
With all thats happening I'm beginning to regret purchasing the car. It was suppose to be a gift for my dad, but I found myself driving it. Now he tells me that the Mazda6 probably would have been a better choice than spending all this money on a car that even I don't find exciting driving.
What an I suppose to do with this car. I've lost any desire to drive it. How do I get rid of this car without taking a hell of a hit financially. It has 1700 miles on it. When I first bought the car I thought it looked fine, now it just doesn't appeal to me. If anything I would love to get rid of it and pick up a Mazda6 for my dad.
What are my best options with this purchase. This was my first new car purchase ever and I paid cash (saved up for a long time). A friend of mine says you're experiencing buyers remorse. Maybe so. By I would love to recoup so money on this purchase and by my dad a nice car the he can use to go shopping with and a means of just getting around. At the time of the purchase I just wanted to get him something great, but I guess I went to far on the purchase for what it would be used for.
Any feedback and advice would be greatly appreciated.
(FYI - free oil changes and inpsections for the life of the car at Radley, perhaps that's all dealers I don't know)
I hate the process of buying a new car, but this forum certainly helps ease some of that pain.
The lowest quote I was able to get from competitors in the area was 30,200 for the same car in a different color. I was unable to get anything lower than that from Pohanka (unlike some of the other postings in this forum) Pohanka was responsive, but with form letters, never really answered questions via email and didn't call back yesterday, thus the purchase elsewhere.
So I go talk to the finance manager about getting my pro-rated warranty money back. He hands me a sheet of paper from the printer and says, just write on it your car was totaled and you want your money back. I'll send it in. That felt weird to me. I get home, read the back of the form and it says I have to fill out a cancellation request for the warranty. The form also gives me the option of having it sent to me directly or for some reason, back to the dealership then me. I choose me. I Called Honda Finance Corp and asked how this process is handled. They told me you have to fill out that form, you have to send in proof of the total loss. Called Prestige back about that form. Was told "they don't use it, it's not required and people have always gotten their money back." He goes onto say, "How are we supposed to recoup our loss of selling that warranty?" HUH, I said, that's not my problem. In short, Prestige signs the form for you, gets your warranty money back, takes a cut of it and mails it to you! I called Honda Finance Corp and asked if I could fill out the form and FAX it in. She said yes, but a dealership has to sign the paperwork. I had Marin Acura sign it. :-)
If you live in Santa Rosa or bay area, DO NOT GO to Prestige Acura. I drove 45 minutes to Marin Acura and bought my 2007 TL there and paid a 100 bucks more than what I paid for that 2006 TL. What does that tell you?
But may be the troublesome aspect is what exactly do you expect from a new car buying experience? Regaldless of the brand and model, buying a new car today is hit and miss in term of initial quality. After you sell the TL, you probably need another car. How can you know that it does not have any problem?? Your problem compare to what the Camry/ES350 guy are going through is peanut. But who would know that buying a Camry/ES350 can be so problematic before it actually happen??
I paid 32,000 OTD for the TL and now also realized that in addition to my current issues, I may not be utilizing this car as much and maybe I would have been better off with something $10,000 less. A friend told me that "to avoid a big hit on this car, try and see if the dealer has something more useful to you like an SUV. Maybe he can cut you a good deal"Does this seem logical?
BTW, I just glanced over to to Camry/ES350 forum and saw a little of what you mentioned. I did not know that there were issues with those cars.
I'm not familiar with autotrader. Is this the best place to sell a fairly new car with low milage?
Again, thanks for the feedback.
Now they are giving quotes via email after I asked them to remove me from the list as I have already purchased a vehicle.
Thought I could provide this for those still in the market.
06 TL NAVIGATION, M/T - $29,970***
06 TL, M/T - $28,384****
*** stock# 6A060313
**** stcck# 6A056572
By the way...there are other threads where this is more appropriate. This is a buying expierence thread...as in the experiance when buying....not the expierence after you bought it....good luck though.
Like another said, after the 06's are gone you can often trade OK (at dealer who sells your kind of car) for minimal hassle. Look for a low mileage car and trade on that.
Like I found a 06 BMW 330i and may trade my 06 TL on it. Dealers that specialize in high end imports can market these.
Good luck but going to a Mazda dealer and trading will result in you being MAD.
I think you would just confuse the heck of yourselves by mixing the trade in and buying decision. If you want to get rid of a car quickly without the advertising/testing/cashier check routine, you can always sell your car to any dealer without buying any car from them (just take the car in and talk to the used car manager, they will make you an offer). Different dealer can easily make offer that is a few hundred dollars difference. Having said that it is still your best bet to sell your car yourselves. Autodealer is an online site for used car. I also heard people using EBAY and car.com with success. If you sell you car now, you would be lucky to get 26-27K and with "10000" less, you are looking at a car that is in the 14-15k range (since you have to pay the tax and license again on your new car). It is a big step down (in term of power, equipment, room, handling etc.. 14-15K is the low end of Corolla, Sentra, Civic territory). Good luck to your decision. I had to trade in a 2002 Lexus SC430 after only 8 months of ownership back in 2003 and we didn't even have time to sell it ourselves... So I understand the financial pain.
I thought it was a bit much, but he wanted exactly the same car you got, black/ebony, Manual transmission, with navi. There wasn't anymore anywhere else in the NYC/NJ area (the inventory in the NY/NJ area was really dried up) so we feel we got a good deal because we got exactly what we wanted. If you think about it, you paid only $29,840 for the car (because the destination charge is not negotiable)
He love it. I just love when the car starts...the engine sounds so cool. He very happy with his new "baby". You will love it, too.
thanks
Nick
Invoice:(Inv 30,677 + 670 Dest)= $31,347 +
TAX (5%): $1567 +
Other Fees: $325
White Diamond /Black Interior for $33,239 OTD
(MSRP is $34,295 ($33,625 + 670)
Dealer Said They Are Selling At Invoice Until New Years Day.
You are better off if you don't have a trade in. Otherwise you're liable to get raped on the trade-in. Stick with the KBB trade-in value or better. (do your research).
You too can get a similar deal - all you need is a backbone and a pair of marbles. Should work at any dealer.
(South of Frederick / north of Rockville) 355
http://www.carmax.com/dyn/research/calculators/paymentest.aspx?type=tax
Just input State and Vehicle Price.
Nick
Believe me, the woman in the next booth is getting the 07 TL at invoice. If you knew that for certain, you would demand invoice.
You can do it dude! Eat some Wheaties! A raw egg! Some Tofu???
I understand that all Acura dealers have been given some secret incentives so their sales numbers can look as good as possible at the end of the year.
If you are fain at heart, go to the dealer site on the internet and email the internet salesperson. Don't give you real phone number at first. Use another name at first.
Say this: I am ready to purchase a 2007 Acura TL (non-navi) today if I can get it at invoice (30,677 + 670 Dest). I'm sending this email to several Acura dealers this morning. I will buy from the first dealer that gives me the TL at invoice. (COPY and PASTE)
Even easier, go to the front of Edmunds.com and fill out the "Free Dealer Quote form" Paste in my language and sent to all dealers shown. Then choose a zipcode about 25 miles from you and repeat.
Caution: If you have a trade-in, watch your butt. Dont make a strong deal up front (invoice) then give it up in the rear end (trade-in). IF ROCKY CAN MAKE A COMEBACK, SO CAN YOU.
See my post above.
After they give you the 07 at invoice (with a smile), they will also give you Honda credit financing at 3.9% (36 months) or 4.9% (Longer period).
Finally, DO NOT BUY ANYTHING ELSE AT THE DEALERSHIP. NOTHING ELSE. You can get what ever you need later. Nothing else!!!
(OK, you can pay $55 for wheel locks, but that's it.) Nothing Else!
Nick give us the breakdown of what the 35k is for.
Maybe he is getting a good deal?
thanks
nick
We are looking for an Automatic w/ Nav. I am not as concerned with 06 vs 07 as I am about the best deal out the door unless there is something really majorly surprising or different about the new 07's.
We live in IN so 6% sales tax here. We've noticed that most people seem to quote/negotiate with tax, title, license included...is this a norm or some kind of advantage?
Thanks and happy holidays to all!
Todd & Erica
Let me know what I am missing
Jane, if you intimidated by the negotiation process, may be using Cardirects.com or Carbargains.com is a good way for you to buy the car. Cardirects is like a dealer, the have set price for every car model that they have a connection in local market. Carbargains is woking as your agents, they will get competitive bids for you in your local market and charge you 299 or so.
If you need to ask if you should show the quote to you local dealer (probably won't make a difference), you are probably not comfortable to do that. Car market is very location based. If you have only a couple dealership that sell Acura in your town, you won't be able to get good deal unless you travel (like going to LA.).
Good Luck.