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Thanks in advance for the help.
Edmunds has a way to do it, just go to the new car section and fill out the info for price requests. You can also go to the acura USA website and they have a section for requesting a price quote. I used both sites for my car hunting with good success.
Best wishes.
Ok...regarding how to find the 'internet managers'...here is a list of the nearest ones in San Diego/Orange County/Temecula (I cannot mention contacts by name as that is not allowed by Edmunds).
** Cush Acura SD and ESC...you will be directed to the receptionist who will set you up with a so called internet manager, but a bunch of line sales people will be in contact with you. Prices about $600-$1500 above LA pricing.
** Hoehn Carlsbad....fill out the webpage contact and you will get an email from the rep. Pricing might be a few hundreds less than Cush...but still substantially higher than up north and not very receptive to counter-proposals.
** Norm Reeves Temecula....go to their Acura website and you can see a button for the 'internet dept'. Two reps...the lead contact is without facial hair (hint..hint).
** Norm Reeves Mission Viejo and Tustin....go to the Acura site and fill out a simple forms. Basically same pricing as Temecula.
** Glendale, Keyes, Weir Canyon, Santa Monica....go to their site and fill out the forms and they will be in contact with you. Slightly better initial quotes...but you can work others nearer to home to a comparable price without the drive.
Another choice would be to use the edmunds site to blast out requests to multiple dealers. If I recall...you enter in zip codes...then they give you a few within the radius. So to get some up further north...find a dealer in the target area and their zip....put it in...and you get more dealer contacts.
Costco auto pricing....not that hot really...and you only get one dealer from the region.
When filling out the request for quote...be as specific as possible for what you are looking for. Color int/ext...nav or not....auto/manual...etc.
Many will respond with a generic acknowledgment...followed by the actual quote. If you do not hear back via email...then feel free to contact via phone.
Good luck....you will do well.
My negotiated price of the 2005 was $32,755 ($1,200 over invoice). I would guess that I could get a 2006 for around $1,500 - $1,800 over invoice. Even if the invoice price goes up by $200 for 2006, it's still only a $500 - $800 difference for next years model.
What do you all think?
Resale value as time passes will be higher by at least the extra you are paying because it will be a one-year-newer car.
Plus, you'll enjoy whatever improvements there are in the '06 model.
That's a tough call. Perhaps they could "sweeten the pot" and drop the price some to compensate your having to wait. If so, it may be still worthwhile (your overall price is good, but not a show stopper). OTOH, if you could get a good price on the '06 (which I have heard nothing about in terms of what people are paying...I would think you'd have a tough time getting as low as you think...the dealerships usually charge closer to MSRP for the 1st of the new year models coming out), then you should go for the '06.
As it stands, I think you're even either way. The current price is likely much better than you'd get for an '06 but the depreciation is already in motion and you are "paying" for the year of depreciation that occurred even though you didn't have the car . For example, the KBB prices for an '04 TL with 10 miles on it vs. an '05 TL with 10 miles on it are $4000 apart.
What makes it so tough to decide is that I don't have the one missing piece.... "What will the 06 prices be like?" I'd be willing to spend more, but not $3K more, since there really aren't any major changes for the 06). I've never purchased an Acura, but I have purchased a first year BMW (second production month) and was able to get $1,500 off MSRP (which was about 2K over invoice). I would think I could do about as well with the Acura.
Rich
Also, since the original deposit was for August delivery, I can cancel, but if I agree to Sept. delivery, can I really resind my offer after the car comes in even if they have a signed piece of paper with a deposit?
Rich
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As for what type of pricing you could get for a 2006...that is the big unknown. My thoughts is that it would be limited discounts as the 200 above invoice is pretty darn good. You will still be able to get a discount off of msrp...but not that much.
The trade-in spread between years 2004 vs 2005 may not be as extreme as what was indicated in the previous note above. Also...remember...the spread is not linear...and that the most depreciation happens during the first few years then diminishes. So if you hang on to your car for say 4 years...the spread will be nominal and inconsequential. Therefore...the trade-in value between two back to back years should not be a big determinator and will not make up for any price increase you will see by switching to a 2006.
My own thoughts... If you are value the additional features or cache of owning a 2006...pay the additional money and being forced into a car color. If happy with a 2005...take advantage of a bargain and knowledge you will be getting the car color you want.
Anybody have alternate thoughts or other suggestions?
Then again, others are saying expect close to MSRP. I just can't believe that given that there aren't many changes to the car.
Rich
thanks,
-nikita
PS. if this isn't the right forum for this question, please point me to an alternative
Auto w/o NAV
Auto w/ NAV
Manual w/o NAV
Manual w/ NAV
Dealers need something to play around with to add value, increase transaction price, etc.. They have come up with the Protection Package.. It doesn't include paint or fabric protection like you would think... It generally is trunk tray, wheel locks and mudflaps.. though, it can be almost any combination of accessories they can think of.. (winter mats, etc..)..
Most dealers use it as a "throw-in" to close a deal, if they don't want to lower the price...
regards,
kyfdx
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I guess I'll just stick with my incoming 05....
Rich
Only worry about depreciation if you plan on trading the car next year. If you're keeping it for a long time 5+ years then there's no real loss and in fact you'd be better having an 05 w/ low miles than an 06 with high miles. 06's will be at sticker for a while. Go for the 05
Just for kicks, email some OTHER dealerships in your area and request prices on the 2006 TL and see what prices you get...
That will allow you to finish "the puzzle" and have all the pieces to make a rational answer. I suspect, as do you, that the 05 will be much cheaper, and as others have said, if you keep it many years, depreciation differences will wash out. OTOH, if you are a person who gets a new car every 3 years, the difference will be significant.
Does anyone know if Acura is or will be offering some kind of financing offers? I am looking to purchase an '05 TL w/ Nav and was just wondering if there are any good financing offers out there.
I am in the so cal area.
Many thanks.
MSRP: $33,100 (Not Including Destination Charge - ~$595)
invoice: $30,164 (DC not incl.)
for 42 month lease, Money Factor .0023, Residual: 56%
for 36 month lease, Money Factor .0025, Residual: 59%
Tax in S. Florida: 6.5%
My negotiated price at one dealership was "at invoice", but i was concentrating more on the length of lease, monthly payment, and total due at signing.
The first dealership was 42mo/12k mi. with $1500 down and 425 per month (taxes incl)
I used this to negotiate the 2nd dealership to 42mo/12k mi. with $1500 down and $409 per month.
I am trying to shoot for 39mo/12kmi for around $405 mo (no more than 1500 down), but I'm not sure if this is realistic. From my calculations, it seems like it is, but i may be missing something. Am i asking too much?
Another issue i have is with the Money Factor. .0025 is approximately 6%. Is this really the best rate offered by honda to customers with tier 1 credit?
Would i have a better shot waiting until september to see what acura has to offer at that time? With the 2006's approaching, i would think that this is the time when a deal could be had.
Thanks,
Rich
Looking at the residual percentages (and I'm going strictly by your info), the 42 month lease is probably the best deal... Only a 3% delta between that and 36 month... I doubt 39 months will be as good.
So, if your second dealer is doing $409/mo. for 42 months with $1500 due at signing, I'd jump on it.... Again.. I stress the distinction between "$1500 down" and "$1500 due at signing".. You may find the second dealer is assuming $1500 down plus 1st payment, etc..
56% is a very strong residual for 42mo/42K... I doubt the lease deals will be any better on the '06... at least.. not at first..
One more note... Always include the destination fees in your figures... Residual percentages are always figured on total MSRP including destination..
regards,
kyfdx
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As long as im writing a check for only 1500 down, and the numbers are still $409, there isnt much else they can try to stick me with, right?
Other than that.... if it is a 42mo/42K mile lease, and it is through AHFC (Honda/Acura Finance), then the money is all that matters..
regards,
kyfdx
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Unless they try and pull something I'll be driving it off the lot.
Thanks for your help again kyfdx, i really appreciate it. This is my first lease, and I want to make sure im getting the best deal possible. 42 months is a little longer than i wanted (36 was my target), but the monthly/down payment is what matters the most, and $400 monthly was my goal.
Now if only the TL didnt have a tape deck. How retro!!
This amounts to $2310 over the life of the 42mo. lease, which is, in my opinion a waste of money.
My question is, what is the apr for american honda for financing a car (tier 1 credit).
I am going to the dealership tonight, so prompt assistance is greatly appreciated!
I believe the dealer add-on sticker listed it as a $799 item ... was hoping to negotiate it lower. Anyone out there have this done to their TL, any ideas on flexibility on price? Thanks!
As for cost of the knob...believe it is about $100...which is a ripoff. All other wood you saw is without additional cost.
Yes...agreed....the wood trim is pretty sharp.
I am in Texas, possibly this was one of the few dealers doing this. In trying to guess what the mark-up is on accessories like this, anyone have a "rule of thumb" on accessories, say something like the cost is 50% of retail price?? Assuming $799 retail, their cost (installed) would be about $400? The margins they are making on these add-ons is obviously (much) higher than factory-added options. I think the wood inserts can be ordered from parts houses off the Internet, but they must be professionally installed.
Any insight is appreciated!
My thoughts. If the debate is whether the markup is 50% or 40% or 60%...it is splitting hairs. A 10% difference in accessory equates to a $60 attempted squeeze in a $33k car. I wouldn't let it be a deal breaker if you seriously want the wood trims...but of course I won't let the dealer know your desire.
This will be my very first purchase of a new vehicle so I am totally a newbie at this.
If anyone has any insights as to when is a good time to buy.
Thanks!
I dealt with the internet depts of six different dealerships. They were all great and answered my questions without pushing.
I got the best price for TL s/ Navi -- 32555
I checked the consumer reports pricing report. Dealership was only making dealer holdback...nothing else.
The dealer offered the extras, but was really cool when I turned them down.
Most painless car buying experience I ever had...and no worries about getting ripped off!
The rock-bottom price right now is about 31500-- and that's with the dealer making NO MONEY.
You might want to look into a used 2004 or 2005 w/Navi to get it under $30K....
Gross Capital Cost: $30508.34
Capitalized Cost Reduction: $238.72
Adjusted Capitalized Cost: $30269.62
Residual Value: $18855.20
Depreciation: $11414.42
Rent Charge: $4951.80
Total Base Payment: 16366.22
Number of Lease Payments: 42
Base Monthly Single Payment: $389.67
Sales Tax Monthly (Based on 6.5%): $25.33
Total Monthly Payment: $415.00
Here is the breakdown of the Amount Due at lease Signing:
CapCost Reduction: $238.72, Tax on this: $15.52
1st Month Payment: $415.00
Registration Fees: 120
Doc Fees + Tax: 637.94
FL Fees + Tax 72.82
Total Out of Pocket: $1500
So what do you think? Was this a good deal, or did it end up being only average?
I hope the precise numbers that i post will help people get an even better deal!
Hmmm...stick on wood 'inserts'? That doesn't sound too good...sounds like they would curl and peel off with the interior heat. The OEM / stock inserts are beefy and solid. Stickers huh?