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2013 and earlier Kia Sedona Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    Don't get confused with apples/oranges. The $4000 rebate is yours exclusive of the deal you reach with the dealer. If you choose to use it as downpayment, or whatever, it is the deal between Kia and you, not the dealer. $26880 sounds a bit high for the options you quoted unless there is an entertainment package.

    However, if you can get it out the door for $18998 plus TTL, that is a pretty good deal no matter how you slice it. You might haggle for some other options you want, like a bug/stone protector installed, spare keys, hitch or something else. All in all, even if you take the deal "as is" you're getting a pretty decent deal.
  • jazacmomjazacmom Posts: 5
    Okay, so is the extra $3885 that they are offering a deal between Kia and the dealer and separate from any haggling that I may do to get closer to the invoice?

  • xfactorxfactor Posts: 78
    That's the very question I have asked.

    I would say the extra $3885 off is the difference between MSRP on the KIA that no one should pay and dealer invoice. The problem is I have been unable to locate the dealer invoice amount for the LX or EX. (Edmunds no longer lists the dealer invoice amounts except on the option packages).

    Without the dealer invoice amount you are left to wonder how much above or below dealer invoice you are paying.

    As far as a dealer offering an amount off MSRP that includes a rebate its just a sales tactic. At the end of the day you need to look at the contract and see the bottom line price. For example the dealer may at contract time throw on destination charges which one could argue are or are not part of the starting point of MSRP or other add ons like "etching". If you are unsure of what to do ask for the contract to be written and get a copy but do not sign it. This way you could post the actual numbers and get feedback from the informed members here at edmunds.

    A buddy of mine has an offer on an EX with DVD for $19,500 and he asked me if that was a good deal. I posted on edmunds to get the dealer invoice and once I obtain it I will find out his exact option packages and have him get a written estimate. Having this information and adding the dealer invoice price available on edmunds I can tell him the price above or below dealer invoice. After that its up to him how much he pays above or below that amount. Just not enough info right now.
  • carguy1234carguy1234 Posts: 233
    Has anybody attempted to place an order on the 2006 yet? Any word on the release data?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    You might check the 2006 Kia Sedona discussion.

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  • jingram1jingram1 Posts: 1
    hey....still trying to figure out pricing....took the kia out agaain today for a test, so far what a beautifull i said before on the last post i is fully loaded. air, power windows, brakes, locks,trunk, seats, sunroof, leather int. cd/cassette, lumbar support....and the list goes on.....76k with 24k bumper to bumper warrenty on it.....nice inside and 12,995.00 Canadian a good price??i guess roughly around 15,500 to 16,000 U.S.
  • leggoleggo Posts: 1
    I am looking for a Kia Sedona. How do I go about getting these rebates from Kia. Does anyone know if the front seats in the back can be removed. I have to put cargo through the side doors. I need all of the seats in the back of the van to come out.

  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Did you have a trade-in?
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Messages on these boards which do not include accurate information about trade-ins and dealer add-ons are pretty much useless.

    Make the boards valuable to shoppers. Here's how:

    First things first... State the actual bottom line MSRP of the new car, as shown on the official, federal government mandated window (Monroney) sticker, which will include all factory and port installed standard and optional equipment and the destination or transportation charge.
    If you traded in a car, let us know, according to the Kelley Blue Book, the condition evaluation and trade-in value of the car you traded.
    Tell us the mileage of your trade-in.
    State the trade-in $ amount actually allowed on your sale contract.
    Then, list details and prices for all dealer installed options and any included (free?) maintenance or oil changes or extended warranties, wax jobs, pin striping, paint or fabric protection packages, Scotchgard, window tinting, "additional dealer markup", "market adjustment", "dealer preparation", or any other amounts which were a part of the deal. These items are DEALER PACS and nearly pure profit to the dealer. They are often itemized on an official looking, but totally unnecessary, addendum window sticker attached to and styled much like the official government required MSRP window sticker.
    Also indicate the amount of the "document fee" charged by the dealer for writing up and sending in paperwork done inside the dealership to ensure ownership is properly transferred, thereby completing the sale to protect the dealer. (This is actually just business overhead expense, similar to salesman commissions and the building's electric bill. As such, it is bogus, but most dealers get away billing the customer for it anyway. Truly, it is additional dealer profit.)
    It is not really necessary to itemize government charges such as registration, license plate, or EPA tire fees since dealers cannot negotiate these amounts anyway. Actually, the government is just using the dealers as tax collectors here.
    Finally, tell us about all rebates, incentives or subsidized financing which applied to your deal.

    If you posted your deals earlier, please post a correction to include the above information.
    If you are going to post your deal in the future, please include all the above info in your post.

  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Brand new 2004 Sedona EX with anti-lock brakes and sunroof and dealer-installed integrated DVD entertainment system, window tint, and pinstripe.

    MSRP was $ 24,020 without dealer installed options.

    The DVD was an additional $799, window tint $299, pinstripe $299 so full dealer sticker price was $ 25,417. That was not my purchase price.

    September 2004 purchase price was $ 16,700 including all items listed above.

    That does not include tax, license, nor the $350 document fee. (As part of the $16,700, I figure I paid $100 for the window tint and $40 for the pinstripe.)
    To complete the deal, I also bought a service contract for an additional $180. It prepays up to 12 oil and filter changes available during the first 36 months of ownership. $15 for each dealership oil change seemed like a good deal to me.

    There was no trade-in.
    Rebates totalling $4500 were assigned to the dealer to arrive at the $16,700 price. Anyone get a better deal?
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Congrats! Sounds like a great deal if your Windstar was in average condition and $4000 was a fair allowance. How do you like your Sedona? And what gas mileage are you getting?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Sounds like an excellent price, but your $16560 is misleading. The $350 doc fee should be included in the price. Shouldn't you have said $17,050 instead of $16,700 or $16,560? I'm surprised you considered the doc fee separate when posting your deal, after you spent all that time in the prior post explaining to people how to make their deal posts more useful for others.

    Personally, I don't care if the dealer has a doc fee or not. For me, it is part of the TOTAL PRICE, and that is what I'm interested in. I won't demand that they remove it, but ff they want to add a big doc fee into the deal, then the rest of the price better be good enough to make up for it.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    While that information is helpful, we like to allow members to decide the information they'd like to post.

    Generally, members are looking for the model, what options the buyer selected, and the price paid (not including tax, title, license or trade-in) and WHERE the vehicle was purchased.

    Mandating that members include all of the information above sure would limit the number of members who are willing to post information about their deals, and we are grateful to members who take the time to share any info they can.

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  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Hahaha. If you only read the headlines in the newspaper, you don't get the whole story.
    $ 16,560 is not misleading since the qualifications are included and explained. Of course, you have to read the post to understand it all.
    The title is accurate. All necessary info is included in the body text.
    I itemized doc fee to show how the price of the car was padded by the dealer. A charge for no added value. I thought some readers might be interested in that too.
    No nits here.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I don't understand quite what you are trying to say. I think you should have said $17,050 in the title of your post, NOT $16,560. The $16,560 is not as meaningful to me as the figure that includes all charges, including doc fee, but excluding taxes and title/registration since those vary by state. In your case, that figure was $17,050.

    Some people won't bother to read all the text in a long post such as yours. They will see $16,560 and think that is what you paid for your Sedona, when you actually paid $17,050 + tax/title/license.
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Haha. I have no power to mandate.

    I am just a reader and sometimes poster making a suggestion. It is my wish list.

    But, if more people would include all pertinent information the board would be more meaningful and useful, that's all.

    Please forgive me all of you with ruffled feathers. And, please do continue to post in whatever manner you choose.

  • philbertophilberto Posts: 46
    2005 Sedona EX Standard Options Price Quote

    19,425 bottom line (tag and title)
    20,616 with 6% FL sales tax and 0.5% county surcharge on first 5,000 ($25)

    Basic Breakdown on Credits and Charges
    -3500 rebate
    -1500 dealer discount
    +400 service charge (dealer prep crap)

    Is this a good deal? I like the proposed features of the upcoming 2006 Sedona, but price is not yet established and this new design does not have any track record. The added features look good, but I think the new styling with the slanted roof and "fly car" headlamps is not so nice. The 05 Sedona has a very nice look.

    So, what do you think on the deal?
  • mcase2mcase2 Posts: 160
    Speaking of track record, have you followed the Kia Sedona problems forum? You might want to look before you leap
  • philbertophilberto Posts: 46
    Yes I have. I know the fires have been a huge concern. As far as I can tell, it's been on the 03 model. The alternator issue is covered. The battery issues are really minor. Anyone who refuses to change a old battery, especially when it is having trouble starting the van, can't cry when it explodes. You have to have some common sense.

    Other issues have been covered. When I look at other vans, some of those complaints are far more extensive and NOT covered in some cases. Look at the EXPENSIVE Quest brake issues!

    Overall, I do not see too many reasons not to buy this reasonably priced van.
  • mcase2mcase2 Posts: 160
    For about $21,000 now you can get into an Odyssey or Sienna. Hey, to each his own. Best wishes
  • philbertophilberto Posts: 46
    Well...the deal just got better. The dealer said I get another $1000 off for being a Caravan owner. The brings the 05 Sedona EX to 19,555 (tax included) out the door, Too good to resist :D !
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Thank you for your thoughtful suggestion.
    I understand that you do not understand. I'm sorry about that.
    I know I gave a lot of information. If you re-read it I think you will understand. I think most other readers understood.
    For those of us who like the whole cost story, details in the letter body are necessary.
    I think you are wrong about what I should write. It is my post.
    If readers only look at the titles and skip the text bodies, then they will miss the intent of the writers.
    Its just common sense.
    Again, thank you for your post.
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Your post #145 is misleading since it does not include enough information about the deal..
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    No more personally-directed comments. If you don't like someone's post, please skip it rather than mocking it.

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  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    AAF- You got an awesome deal! BlueDevils and I will get you to negotiate for our next Sedonas, any time.
  • In reading your post about the price of Sedona's, you must be buying your Kia from Speedway/Daytona Kia? That price sounds like a good deal to me! We paid more than that for a 2004, but is has leather, 2 year Auto-Butler service, and a few more perks. The 1/2 percent additional tax makes me think you are in Volusia Cty.
    BTW they have been excellent to work with, the svc dept has addressed every one of our concerns, and been very courtious. I was a little dissapointed in some of the costs of certain services, but then they are a "DEALER", and not an independent service shop.
    I used to do a lot of work on my vehicles, but lately, i'm getting too old to crawl around on the garage floor, especially on a new Vehicle! Besides, about all you can do is change the oil now-a-days anyway.

  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Craig, you mentioned in your post #121 that aaf's deal price did not seem quite right.
    Responding to that, and to navyair's post #165, please consider:
    If you read aaf's posts carefully, you'll see that he got $1000 less for his trade than he should have. His '98 Windstar with 85000 miles in March of '04 was probably worth $5000 or more as a trade-in according to the Kelley Blue Book. But, he was allowed only $4000.
    That is the same as increasing the price of the new van by $1000. So, figure the final negotiated price of the van was really $16868 instead of the $15868 mentioned as the price in his post.
    The trade-in info lets us know more about the true cost of your new car. I like to use the Kelley Blue Book trade-in price to determine the true value of a used car.
    If you trade in a car and are allowed the KBB trade-in value plus sales tax, then you probably got a fair deal for your trade. Anything less than that could be considered an increase in the selling price of the new car.
    IF THE ALLOWANCE IS LESS THAN the KBB trade-in price plus sales tax, then you are probably better off selling it on your own if you can afford to have an extra car until its sold. Or, better yet, collect a cash deposit when you enter into a (carefully worded) contingent sales agreement with a private buyer(s) before you even go to the dealer. Unless the new car dealer who sells you a car offers more than the private buyer, then the private buyer gets it. If the dealer allows more, then your private bidder gets a chance to increase his offer above the dealer's offer.
  • Hi boxwrench,

    I almost missed this. Guess I'm spreading too many posts around here to keep up. :D

    Nope! Not Daytona, but down the coast a little in St. Lucie County. I ended up opting for the LX at 15,695 before tax. It's a white one with gray and black interior. I like the looks inside and outside better. I hate luggage racks! I don't like 'fake' wood trim. The only features I miss are the electric vent windows and the fog lights. I found someplace that sells Kia fog lights for $81.90. I can wire them myself! Electric vent windows? I dunno, but I'm looking into it. I also want to change my white front grill to black. Very easy to do if I can find one in a salvage place. I'm working on getting a Kia tow hitch this weekend. When I'm done with this I will have it just the way I like it.

    I don't plan on taking it to any Kia dealer for service unless there is a warranty issue. I don't trust dealers. Some are better than others, but too many times my cars have come out with more problems than they went in for...and not covered items either. These days I hire my own mechanic...someone I can trust! ;)
  • Philberto,

    I guess St. Lucie Cty. has the same tax rules as Volusia Cty. Ref: Black Grill-- Why not just paint the mesh with Flat Black paint? I did notice the LX models with all one color "Everything" didn't look as good. I bought a Kia bug shield/deflector and installed it myself and it makes the frontal area look much different, Better in my opinion. As for a Hitch, I checked with Kia and they want $250 - plus installation. I found a Reese hitch online for $113 at How is your gas mileage? The way my wife drives, the best we get is about 16 mpg. Very disapointing.

  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202

    Last two posts on the posting gas mileage board were for 05 Odys and they both reported 16mpg as well. Think how much gas you can buy with the savings between the two platforms.

    You'll like the hitch you get from e-hitch...I've been using mine for about 18 months now. We left the wiring harness attached and inside the rear wiper fill compartment and pull it out when needed. You may wish to go through the subfloor and permanently mount it. My arrangement worked fine for the 2-3x a year we haul with it...and I never have to worry about corrosion on the wiring plug.

    OBTW, wife had a flat on the OEM Hankooks (her dear, a tire shouldn't need 10lbs of air every 2 days). I changed it in the driveway so I could get it repaired. Put the OEM spare on...some cosmetic damage on the sidewall from the spare rubbing up against the bottom of the van. Everyone might want to check to see that their cage isn't tightened this much. All I had done was add air a couple of times when it was on a lift.

    For those changing a tire, watch the drops freely to the ground after you undo the bolt. I initially thought it might be a cable/winch set up like a pick up. Instead, it is attached on a hinge on one side (forward side of car). You start unscrewing the bolt (after removing plastic cover on floor of van), the front of the cage (at rear bumper) lowers about 3". You then need to stop, and undo a wing nut (covered liberally in sound deadener/undercoating) and manually lower the cage to the ground.

    Or, you can do as I did, and undo the bolt, not knowing the above, and have the front of cage drop the 8" or so to the ground attached by the hinge in back. Sturdy cage, so it won't hurt it. Somehow, lying on my back and lowering the cage on the roadside just probably isn't going to happen, so I'll stick with my "discovery" method.

    Will post again if I discover anything different about putting the spare back in the cage and putting it up.

    We have about 38k on the OEMs (I used snow tires this winter 47k overall) and plenty of tread left. I expect to get about another year out of these tires unless spouse continues to find road debris. Tire repair in Twin Cities has reached the cost of almost 1/2 a new tire, so road hazard warantee is a definate plus when I buy replacements. ($12, free rotation, free flat fixes, extended warantee vice $27 single flat repair)
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