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comes with
JBL/bluetooth radio/cd -- special color blizzard white --daytime running lights -- moonroof--custom tape stripe -- towing prep package--night vision mirror upgrade-- rear bumper protector-- mud guards -- carpet mat set --fabric guard-security upgrade system--wheel locks--permavin glass etch-- vehicle shield package-after market leather added (katzkin) selling price before taxes & fees $29,000 out the door should be @ 31k --- to high? or good deal?
getting a new car should be fun, but its a lot of work!
also finacing should you be able to get a better rate than 6.9 if you have a excellant rating?
thanks
Does fitzmall sell out of state? It sounds like they do and with much less hassle. I guess I have to contact them
T
FYI - The Evergreen referred to the color, not the location. I bought at Grossinger North in Lincolnwood, IL (just outside Chicago).
Just a broad question. If price is not an option, what do you all prefer, the limited or sport edition (V6 only)? I test-drove the sport and found the drive to be incredibly fun. I suppose I should test drive the Limited, too - but haven't had the chance to do so. IS there a substantial difference, given the wheel size (17 vs. 18)?
I guess I wonder whether getting the steering wheel controls is worth giving up feel and performance.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I understand why they offer multiple options and I undersand that each has their advantages and disadvantages. I KNOW that. I am asking what the forum readers/participants prefer - I am not asking why each is offered, nor do I need to hear what everyone knows: to each his own.
I look forward to future (other) replies.
Captain
I prefer the limited. If you like leather/heated seats, limited is the only way you can get them unless you get after market leather. I also like the automatic climate control, leather wrapped stearing wheel, power seat, audio controls on steering wheel (with JBL) etc.
I drove both the Limited V6 and Sport V6. I didn't really see much difference in handling and the ride. (BTW, I also drove a 4 cyl., and IMHO, the V6 was the only way to go.) The specs say that the Limited has a tighter turning radius, but the couple of inches seemed negligble.
I purchased a Sport in the long run. But if I had my druthers and if Toyota would have let me configure it the way I wanted (like a Dell laptop, etc.), I would have purchased a Limited. But I couldn't perofrm a custom configuration and decided that financially all the packaged options were not worth the extra cost. I had hoped that I could find a basic Limited [yes, this may seem like an oxymoron, I know.
Anyway, I hope you have fun test driving and negotiating for your vehicle.
Thanks - very helpful.
Cap
The REAL luxory comes with my NEXT car - but that's gonna take a few years.
Thanks for the help
Cap
The flares and wheels do look nice on the Sport, although I think the wheels and the chrome grill on the Limited look pretty sharp too. I haven't driven the Sport, but it's hard to imagine I'd want the ride much harder than the Limited. This comes from someone who has driven Mustangs for the past 20 years, but then I was looking for a little more refinement from the Rav 4 so that's just my preference.
Even without the leather package (which is actually leather "trim" on a vinyl seat), the Limited's cloth seats are better than Base/Sport as they offer the driver 8-way power & lumbar adjustment. You also get automatic climate control, leather wrapped steering, leather wrapped shift knob, heated mirrors. It really does boil down to your preference between these features vs. slightly better looks & a harder ride.
I have a Limited on order but would have gladly given up its extra features for a 5-speed stick if it had been available in the Sport trim.
Sorry. I apologize.
First, I have been effusive (and thankful) in my praise of the follow up. Second, I asked for an opinion, and got in response - to each his own. That I already know.
Third, I agree about the forum - but there is no such forum and I am buying next weekend - so I am being direct. I am not going to start a forum amd then abandon it a week later.
Sorry I offended - but the responses I have had since are very helpful and I have gotten what I needed - which is, in part, what this forum is all about.
Thanks for your comments and again, my apologies.
Captain
1. Options
2. Suspension.
If you don't mind options and if price is really not an issue then the only consideration for me would be - what is more fun to drive and what my preference is. I noticed in Sport, handling and suspension were tight and it kind of bounces you around. That means you might have more fun and the suspension is meant more for off road use (probably a little bit more durable too). However, if you go on long trips, after a couple of hours you'll feel so beat-up just as if you were in a truck.
So, if you want a little bit softer ride - go with Base or Limited. If you want fun then definitely Sport is the way to go.
My advice would be - test drive both options and see what works best for you. Don't assume they are all the same and the only difference is in options in the car.
Second, I hope you did your homework and you know what's your final price. You should know there aren't any incentives for the customer because the car sells well (and you'll know why as soon as you press the gas pedal in your new V6). But if you do your homework you should be able to get a good deal. As W. James Bragg (fighting chance) said in his book - it doesn't matter whether it is Christmas or New Year, for those who know what they are doing, every day is Christmas and they'll get a good deal.
Once again - good luck and make sure you post your good deal here as a guide to others.
I was going to buy a Honda CR-V and I was pretty sure that that's the vehicle I want. But they were arrogantly priced and Honda dealers didn't want to negotiate at all. When I tried RAV4 V6, I knew. That was it.
After I purchased the RAV4 and as I was taking it home, I happened to drive by a Honda dealership one block just down the road. I honked my horn as I was driving by, pressed the gas pedal harder and squeeled with my tires just a little bit. :P This vehicle will leave any CR-V in a cloud of dust, believe me.
Adam Goldberg was the salesmans name in he was very professional and always quick to respond to my questions. I would absolutely use them again.
Your advice above, Banj, is spot on. In case ANYONE else is listening/reading, it's also precisely what I found because I have now test-driven all three. I am, in fact, opting for the Sport, because of the FUN FACTOR you outline above. I think your comments about long-haul trips are astute, though, and worth thinking about. That said, I don't do many long-hauls at all so I don't think it's an issue. Also, I do believe that this is an interim car for me . . . meaning that in a couple of years I think I will upgrade to more luxory and smooth ride. The fun factor of the sport is just too exciting to pass up right now, in my opinion.
Price is always an option, of course, but not as much, which is why I am opting for the sunroof and JBL - but I also life in California where the sunroof is likely to be open quite a bit when driving.
Finally, I am in the final pricing stages, so the next posts I give WILL be on price comparisons - though so far it seems competitive. I plan on doing fighting change faxes on Friday morning, buying the car on Saturday. So, I will keep you all posted.
What a great site this is - THANKS TO ALL!!
Captain
Second thing is - it is very difficult to negotiate on Saturday. There are many people around you buying a car and you'll hear this one: Mr. Captain, look around. Many people are buying a car from us. We are very busy. We are selling them like hot cake. Why would we go any lower...
I have a decent offer already, based on my research. I will send out fighting chance faxes on Wednesday then.
And, if Saturday is too busy, I can show up Monday afternoon. I want to have negotiations done by this week so I can buy on Saturday. We'll see how realistic that is.
Again, thanks for your thoughts and advice. Next . . . the price.
Tom
I have been posting and getting lots of feedback. It has all be VERY helpful.
This is the car I am looking at:
2007 RAV 4, Sport, six cylinder, two-wheel drive.
Option Combo C (moonroof, steering wheel controls, JBL Stereo, etc.)
Carpeted Floor Mats
Cargo Tray
Rear Bumper Aplique
Black
So, far, the best quote I have received is $24995 from Toyota of Marin (in Northern California). I have also received 25,995 and $25,500. This jibes with Edmunds pricing, too. However, I can't seem to find an exact model on fitzmall.com.
Per my other conversations (thank you RAJ and EVERGREEN!), is this a good price?
Thanks.
Tom
Anyway, am I to understand that the best time to do the fighting chance faxes is at the END of the month - and does that method RELY on end of the month quota, etc? I guess I didn't know that Fighting Chance as such a specific process - I was just going to send out a bunch of faxes when I got the lowest price (now at $800 ABOVE invoice - 24995) and see who could beat it.
Am I completely missing something - is there much more to it than that? Not trying to get something for nothing, I am just winding down this process and I want to know if I need to step back a bit and learn more.
I am not fanatical about getting the absolutely lowest price - but I don't want to get screwed either.
Thanks again - particularly to you RAJ
Captain
The Rav 4 Sport (V6, two wheel drive) does NOT, in fact, come with option package C (even though you can construct it on the Toyota web site. This would be special order, taking two to three months.
The closest I can get is as follows - after which come prices.
Rav 4 Sport
V-6
2-Wheel Drive
Option Package B
Tonneau cover with net, am/fm stereo/six speaker/six cd changer, moonroof w/sunscreen, tow prep package (which I don't care about, but can't avoid)
Cargo Tray
Floor Mats
Rear Bumper Aplique.
The challenge is that Edmunds doesn't seem to have all of these options - and Kelley Blue Book has way to many options so it's hard to construct it exactly.
Fitzmall quoted me $25231 and Toyota San Francisco quoted me $25,000.
Edmunds says that Invoice price is $24,238, though.
So, the question is . . . . are these good prices?
THANKS
Captain
Beyond that, thanks for all of your help. Here is what I got for the following:
RAV 4, V6, Sport, Two Wheel Drive, Option Package B (am/fm radio w/six cd changer, moonroof, tow package, floor mats), rear bumper aplique and cargo tray:
I paid $24,630. Depending on what you look at on line, this is well below MSRP but still a couple hundred dollars above invoice. But, out here in northern california, there is such demand that I couldn't get a lot of interest in going lower - though I believe I could have if I really pushed it. But, saving two or three hundred more, given the time I had put into it - at some point you have to start calculating the cost of your time.
I got exactly what I wanted well below TMV and other such indicators and MSRP - so, I feel happy with the deal.
If you are being offered $200 above invoice, my experience is it's a decent deal.
Good shopping - I'm gonna go drive - the car is freaking FABULOUS!
Captain
(Thanks again evergreen and Raj)
I live in South Carolina and I am leaning towards the Rav4 over the CRV. Now, in SC, there is what is called "SET administration fees". It is added to the price and it is about $600. This is not a dealer fee, it is a Toyota fee. You thus still have to pay the normal dealer fees and taxes. The "SET administration fees" appears on a Toyota model when it iis time to choose the options on edmunds.com. What I would like to know, first, if there is an equivalent for Honda. If not, anyone knows why is Toyota adding that and not Honda. Any info would be helpful. This "SET administration fees" is actually imposed in the South East states.
Thank you
Hondas are sold to the dealers by American Honda... No middlemen involved.
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Edmunds Moderator
The reality is...everything you pay, except for taxes and registration fees goes to the dealer. How they distribute the money after that really has no bearing on your deal.
So.. compare your total cost on the RAV4 to the CR-V, and decide what makes the most sense to you.
Generally, it will come down to which vehicle you prefer. The prices between comparably equipped models aren't that far apart, are they?
regards,
kyfdx
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Edmunds Moderator
What? $600? That smile on her face was worth at least $1,000! So I saved $400 right there...
A dealer in Northern California quoted me $28,488 for RAV4 Limited V6 4x4. They claims the MSRP is $30,454
The options included in this price are:
1) Leather seats
2) Heated seats
3) Moon roof
4) JBL speakers
5) Tow package
Is this a good price?
Thanks
Chirag
That said, this SEEMS like a good price to me, based on what I can remember during my recent searches for the Sport version in Northern California.
Just so you know, I got the best prices in Northern California from two dealers: Hanlee Hilltop Toyota (Richmond) and San Francisco Toyota (on Geery).
You are getting virtually all of the perks (heather seats, leather seats, JBL, 4x4) so I think it's a pretty good price but you can probably go lower.
Finally, see what they will offer you for the two-wheel drive version. With the V6, I couldn't tell the difference between 2-wheel and 4-wheel and you don't need it out here (unless you are going to Tahoo a lot).
Good luck.
Captain
If you are waiting for the Cr-v, I suggest to give a visit to the Toyota dealer. My opinion is that there is no need to wait all that time for a Cr-v if the RAV4 is available and, unlike the case of the Cr-v, the law of supply and demand plays in your favor there.
Congratulations! I hope you enjoy it for years to come. If you got a V6 - watch your speedometer. You get from 0-60 mph in no time flat. Now there is only one little thing left. You have to pay for it...
Despite having stiffer shocks, the car handles like a dream and sticks to the road like glue. It's quiet, roomy, powerful and a beauty with the flint mica paint.
Is the V6 worth it? Every penny!
The sticker was right at 29,000 ( Haley Toyota in Roanoke, Va ). What should I be able to get them down to?
If you check the previous posts on this forum you should be able to determine a fair selling price for the model you want. I presented the lowest price from this forum to my salesman and worked from there.
Are you buying the 4x4 for resale value? I only ask because it disengages after you reach 25mph-
Also- unless you have to have power seats- the $$ spent on the limited vs. the sport is questionable IMO.
Good Luck and happy motoring!
I just wanted to add my two cents to wolf's. I drove all three models (Base, Sport and Limited) and actually liked the Sport model better. The power seats actually DETRACT from the space on the driver/passenger side. I also drove the 4-wheel AND the 2-wheel and noticed no real difference.
Finally, the sport comes with a 4-wheel feature in case you get stuck - you can engage it for short periods of time.
In any event, if you take the Sport, not the limited, and if you take two-wheel, and don't care about JBL (which is a VERY nice system, by the way), you can shave $5K off of the price and still get a great drive.
I paid 24,740 for my two-wheel drive, v-6 sport (option package B, with the cargo tray and rear bumper aplique) and I think I could have gotten a little lower if I had worked harder, but that's still a good price.
T
Power seats are just nice. Besides, all of the Limiteds I've seen so far have them, so it would be a hassle to get one without.
As far as the Sport vs the Limited, the ride on the Limited seems a bit softer due to the suspension tuning and higher tire sidewalls.
Anyway, reading this post who can tell me:
1. What is the difference between 4X4 and AWD?
2. There is a button on the dashboard that has 4 wheels on it(right behind the steering wheel). The salesman told me I can press that button and it splits the power 50-50% front to rear). Now are you saying that would automatically turn off after a while or...? How does that work?
I didn't do too much reading about that (obviously) but I did do my research regarding the price toroughly. Here is how you do it:
Get the fightingchance.com package. Or join Consumer Reports - New Car Buying Package. They give you the invoice price for the vehicle, holdbacks, incentives AND invoice price for all possible options for all possible trims. So, you sit down at home and you email your salesman to send you the printout on that vehicle you're considering. The printout contains all standard and add-on options with MSRP on all of them. Then you pull out your package and start writing invoice prices right next to it. When you're done you'll have the total MSRP and total invoice price for the vehicle. Now you subtract holdback and that the Invoice-Invoice (rock bottom) price (what the dealer really paid).
When I started negotiating the salesman came with his first offer - full blown MSRP. I countered with Invoice-Invoice. He says - What is that? I way - Invoice price. But we're not going to sell it to you for invoice. I know. But I will not pay MSRP either.
So, in the end we found a middle ground, he was happy with that, I, oh well, a little bit less, but it was FAR from MSRP. So, in general, since we're talking about a very nice vehicle RAV4, demand is still great, if you can get the price somewhere between invoice and MSRP, you did fine.
So, it's a lot of work. Be prepared to defend your numbers. They'll be questioned, believe me.
Also, AWD does not have a locking differential, and there is no "LOW" range or granny gear. 4WD is more suited for off road use, where AWD is mainly useful on pavement in slippery conditions.
Let's say the vehicle you're looking at is MSRP $29,000 (Edmunds invoice $26,300). Some dealers will even show you that invoice gladly if you ask for it. However, there is 2% holdback (for Toyotas) or 3% Honda, etc. So, the actual cost to the dealer is $26,300-$26,300*0.03=$26,300-$526=$25,774. Of course, when you mention holdback salespeople usually get feisty. (Look in Honda CR-V "Prices paid and buying experience" thread). They say that's for overhead, that for this or that, that's not meant for the consumer etc. If that weren't the case they would never be able to sell you a car at or below invoice. They wouldn't be making any money. Some people claim that's how company's circumvent the salesman so they wouldn't have to pay him/her a fair share of the profit etc. No matter what holdback is meant for it still makes it's way back to the dealership. So, when you negotiate and YOU make an offer, you should know how much the dealership is making at that time with that particular deal. Say you offer $27,000. The dealer stands to make some $27,00-$25,774=$1,226. So, when you are asked to substantiate your offer and defend your numbers, you know where they came from. Now, when you make your final offer, let's say $27,600 and before your salesman goes back to his sales manager you can mention something like - this is my last offer, I think it is a fair one. If you tell me that the dealership will not be happy with $27,600-$25,774=$1,826 (of YOUR hard earned $$$) on this deal, then I have nothing else to say here. Note that you are paying 7% over Invoice-Invoice or about 5% over Edmunds Invoice which is a decent offer indeed. For example, if I were to buy a domestic car, I wouldn't go anywhere near 3% over Invoice-Invoice just because of the quality, depreciation etc. But when you deal with a good car that's in demand you have to go a little bit higher (talking from my own experience).
BTW, if you want to know more about the subject, I'd recommend you go to Amazon.com and search for "Buy a car" book or something like that because I don't know if I am allowed to mention a few good ones in this forum but you can check out reader comments and decide if you want to read any of that.
So, just keep in mind - on RAV4, there are no killer deals. Just don't get totally taken and you did good. In the end, you might not be happy with the price but you will be with the vehicle (provided you get a V6).
Any caveats? Thanks