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2013 and earlier BMW X3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • sup44sup44 Posts: 3
    If that is the case .. great Deal !!!
  • sup44sup44 Posts: 3
    I lease for business purposes.. This is the deal I got..
    I got the dealership to buy my 325cic with 12k miles over the contracted lease and got out of it paying zero.

    Now am leasing the 2.5 X3 for$490 a month for 39 months with $1500 down and 12k miles per year.

    Silver Grey, Nav, prem pkg, cold pkg,etc(that add up to MSRP 40,895)
    Works out to $2330 below MSRP.....

    You calculate to be $2,230 below MSRP, which in my opinion is a Good Deal , provided you didn't put more then $1500 down.. congrates if that is the case!!!....
  • new2bmwnew2bmw Posts: 7
    Silver Gray Metallic / Gray Leather
    Cold Weather Package
    Premium Package
    Automatic Tansmission
    Xenon Headlights
    Satellite Radio Prep
    Privacy Glass
    Dark Wood
    Destination Charge
    MSRP: 44,020.00

    Paid: 40,540.00 + Tax and Tags for a total of
  • I wouldn't trade in six months of waiting researching shopping around for 3000 dollars. I have been waiting for my new X3 3.0 for two weeks, it's killing me.

    Kudos to all of you who bought it early right from the parking lot.

    BTW: It's reasonable now to get 3000 maybe more off but with lots of options.
  • kobraboykobraboy Posts: 2
    BMW is trying to make me lease a metallic black x3 3.0 with premium package, heated seats and privacy glass with 15,000 miles per year for 39 months.

    I know that the car has been sitting on their parking lot since Feb/March 2004.

    They said that they based the payment on selling price of $39,500. I calculated the invoice price to be $38,100.

    How low do you think they will go?
  • kobraboykobraboy Posts: 2
    Also, they want me to put down $2500 + $500 sec dep
  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    This is the deal I'm getting on a Manual 2.5.

    If you get a 3.0 Automatic, BMW is giving $1210 to the dealer, so your purchase price/cap cost should be that much lower. Basically, you get a free Automatic. Additionally, the money factor on leases for the 3.0 is an even more attractive .00150. Translation: It would have cost me $25 more per month to get the 3.0.

    MSRP: 39830
    Cap Cost: 38085 (including mats)
    Residual: 24694.60 (62%)
    Depreciation: 13390.40
    343.34 + 109.86 = 453.20
    5% tax = 22.66
    Monthly Payment = 475.86
    Net Cash at Delivery = 1168.36 (first month's payment + security deposit + doc fees + acquisition fee - deposit; 475.86 + 500 + 167.50 + 525 - 500)
    Money Factor: .00175
    Mileage: 10000
  • dbacksfan1dbacksfan1 Posts: 12
    Earlier this month I leased a 3.0 with MSRP of 39,970 (auto, moonroof, privacy glass). The cap cost was 36,450. The dealer included floor mats and front window tinting (a must in Arizona heat) at no charge.

    Here's my 39-month lease w/12k miles per year:
    - MF: 1.9 (high; but I'm comfortable with that since I got such a good deal on front-end)
    - Residual: 61%
    - Acquisition fee rolled into lease.

    My monthly payments are $449 plus tax (7.7%).
    I paid doc fee, first payment, and license fee (outrageous in AZ) totalling just over $1900. No down payment or cap reduction was required.

    In addition, I'm getting $500 from BMW CCA.

    All in all, a very good deal (I think).

    BTW, I'm very pleased with my SAV. I'm coming out of a Lexus GS400. The only thing I really miss is the smooth quiet power and sweet sounding Nakamichi stereo system. But, I'm very happy I made the move.

    Good luck in your BMW hunt.
  • boeingairboeingair Posts: 6
    Hello All,

    First of all, thank you for reading this, and for any information you may have. I tend to get a bit long-winded at times.

    We are considering leasing a new X3 2.5i (we think), with not a lot of options. We could consider a 3.0i, because I thought I read that the leases are more competitive, but I suppose a 2.5i would be cheaper. We probably have 2-3k drive off to work with, and maybe 350-375 monthly. We don't need a lot of options, only automatic and metallic paint. Heated seats and moonroof would be nice, as would be leather, but payment is more important.

    Here's where it gets more complex. We are currently 2 years into a 4 year lease on a VW Jetta 1.8t automatic sedan. Using edmunds dealer trade in, we are $2,000 upside down, private party we are $1,000. We would like to get a different car, because the Jetta back seat is too small. We could roll the negative equity into the X3, which I know is a bad idea, but could be compensated by the savings off sticker price?

    What do you guys think? Is this possible?

    Thank you so much!

  • kirkd1kirkd1 Posts: 24
    first time leasee
    msrp $38,670
    agreed value $36,470 plus acq fee $725
    residual value after 39 mo 10k mi year $23,975
    total of payments $18,537.52
    $5000 downstroke
    $347.04 mo X38 mo
    (this doesn't add up? but i thought it works)

    (does that tell it all i couldn't find the mf i think it was 1.5 with no deposit)

    I still need to know if anyone is losing their wheels to theft..............should i buy wheel locks?
  • ckbckb Posts: 2
    I am trying out an X3 3.0 with an MSRP of $45,445. They have offered $1500 of the MSRP (1000 + 500 for the sports pkg which I didn't want). Can someone tell me if this is a good price or should I keep looking. I live in Florida and have noticed prices seem to vary by geographic area. The sound system upgrade was important to me but not the sports package. The dealer said they couldn't locate any cars in country with the sound but not sports package. I am comparing it with an RX330 (2WD)
    The car is:
    Titanium silver with black leather
    premium pkg.
    sports pkg.
    automatic trans.
    Xenon lights
    premium sound system
    satellite radio prep
    privacy glass
    destination charge (695)
  • steves1steves1 Posts: 1
    Good Evening,

    I know everything is life is negotiable to some degree, but has anyone been able to negotiate the price of a BMW X3 with European delivery or is it a fixed price which is the same regardless of the dealer you order through? That's what my local dealer is telling me, but it never hurts to check.

    Thanks, Steve S.
  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    Your payment should be more like $270 per month plus tax. The current money factor (I'm told by the dealer where I'm leasing my X3) is .00110.
  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    You can do better. BMW is not taking orders for any more 2004s, so you'll have to buy off the lot or have your dealer find you a vehicle from another dealer.
  • kirkd1kirkd1 Posts: 24
    saw a later post of yours at a higher rate (.00175) than you posted here. have you been able to straightened that out?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Everywhere, USAPosts: 122,998
    I'm trying to make your numbers work.. I'll just assume that your $5K down includes your first payment and security deposit. Then, if your payment includes taxes, it seems about right, assuming a money factor of around .0015-.0018

    This really doesn't seem to be that great of a deal.. The only positive thing that I can see is the 62% residual is pretty strong for a 39 month lease, but that is set by BMWFS and the dealer has nothing to do with it.

    1) The $2K off MSRP is okay.
    2) At $725, the dealer is padding the acq.fee by $200.
    3) I don't know what the correct MF is, but since they are padding the acq.fee, then I'm assuming they are padding the MF by the maximum of .0004 (costing you about $25/mo.)
    4) I strongly encourage you not to make any cap cost reduction (downpayment) on the lease. Leave your $4300 or $5000 or whatever in the bank. For the minimal amount of interest you will save, you will lose the entire amount if your car is stolen or totaled in an accident. With the deal you are getting, that will move your payment up in the $470 range, but that would be with only first payment and security deposit due at signing.


    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    Yes. BMW is offering lower money factors now than it was in June. My dealer told me that the money factor will be .00090 instead of .00175. They didn't say anything about the residual, so I'm assuming it will stay the same at 62% for a 39 month lease (10000 miles per year).

    The only thing I haven't really gotten a bead on is how steeply this vehicle is being discounted currently. My price is $1740 off MSRP.
  • davidc1davidc1 Posts: 168
    "I strongly encourage you not to make any cap cost reduction (downpayment) on the lease. Leave your $4300 or $5000 or whatever in the bank. For the minimal amount of interest you will save, you will lose the entire amount if your car is stolen or totaled in an accident. "

    I am not sure about that. I believe you'll get the difference (cost to replace the car at retail price including tax minus the payoff amount). I was sent a check when one of my leased car was totaled. I agree with you that putting as little as possible down is the way to go but you don't lose that much by putting more down.
  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    Car_man, who hosts a leasing forum on this site, says:

    "It is definitely not in your best interest to make a down payment when leasing. I always advise consumers against doing so for two main reasons. The first is if your leased vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease term, your insurance company pays off the bank that you are leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So this vehicle's purchase price at the end of your lease would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $2,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all."
  • davidc1davidc1 Posts: 168
    Interesting but I don't get it. I would agree that putting nothing down is a good idea when the money factor is very low but how do you lose the big down payment? Whatever you put down reduces your monthly payment. Of course the lease-end purchase price is constant no matter how much you put down. But the payoff amount should be lower from the beginning. If your leased vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease term, your insurance company figures out the cost to replace the vehicle at retail price + tax and other costs. Then subtracts the payoff amount due to the bank. Then sends you the difference. At least that's how I got my check after they've payed off the bank. Don't get me wrong, I generally don't put anything down unless I want to lower the monthly payment to a level I am comfortable with. I just didn't get the math here.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Everywhere, USAPosts: 122,998
    You lease $30K car this month for 3 years, with an $18K residual. Next January, it is totaled in an accident. The insurance company puts a value of $24K on it.

    1) If you put nothing down on it, your lease payment is 429.33 and after 6 months you have a total outlay of $2576 and the balance owed to the bank is $28K. The insurance company pays them the $24K, and the GAP insurance pays them the balance. Total cost: $2576

    2) If you put $5K down on the lease, your payment is $280.44 and after six months your total of payments and down payment is $6682 and the balance owed to the bank is $23834. The insurance company pays $24K, which would be $166 over what is owed. Assuming you get the overage back, total cost: $6546

    Under this scenario, your $5K downpayment cost you $3970. The amount saved in finance charges assuming you complete the lease is about $360 (assuming MF of .002).

    For $10 month, I'd rather keep my money in the bank. You can change the numbers and the savings can be more or less.. this was just to illustrate the math behind the advice.


    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • davidc1davidc1 Posts: 168

    Thanks for the example. I would just argue that the insurance co. will value it much higher than that. A six month old car will actually come out close to the original purchase price. I guess it varies by insurance co. but in my real life experience, the retail + tax + registration, etc.. came up to $4K more than what I thought the car was worth. I was actually surprised (pleasantly of course). I also wonder if the GAP is even utilized much these days. But again, this just my own experience. Since one can't assume all insurance will do the same, I suppose the safe thing is to go with your example as the worst case scenario.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Everywhere, USAPosts: 122,998
    Your insurance company may treat you differently, but in most cases, they negotiate with the bank who owns the car. The bank is covered either way.. What the insurance company doesn't cover, the GAP insurance will. They have no stake in helping you recover your downpayment. If the accident is your fault, and you are dealing with your own insurance company, you may have a little leverage with them, but if you are hit by someone else, and have no other loss than the car, you may be left out in the cold by their company.

    I totaled a car in '02 and was also pleasantly surprised by the payoff, but it was MY car, not the bank's, and I'd been with the same company since '85 with over ten years accident-free.

    It may not ever happen, but I think it is a good rule of thumb to pay as little up front as possible on a lease.


    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    Another way to put it is that your down payment is at risk, and unless you are very comfortable with the notion that your insurance company will value your specific leased vehicle at a level high enough to eliminate or reduce your loss exposure, you shouldn't make a down payment (especially a big one). Since there are so many variables out of the lessee's control -- date of the accident/theft; general condition of the auto market at the time of loss; depreciation rate specifically applicable to your vehicle (e.g., Audi unintended acceleration debacle as an example of what you wouldn't want to happen to you) -- I agree that it is best to keep your money in your pocket (metaphorically, of course).
  • clpurnellclpurnell Posts: 1,087
    Any overage does not go to the leasee but the one who owns the vehicle. So if it holds it value and is more than owed then the lease company profits not you. Your down payment is gone the moment you hand over the check.
  • pipopipo Posts: 36
    I don't think you're right about the overage going to the owner. Why should the owner get the overage? The owner is not the insured under the policy.

    My belief is that the insurance company will pay any overage to the lessee; they treat the lease effectively the same way as they would treat a purchase transaction, and treat the lessee as they would the purchaser. Once the owner/lessor is paid off, any overage should go to the lessee. I'm not an expert on this; can anyone confirm?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Everywhere, USAPosts: 122,998
    You are renting the car.. Even though you pay for the insurance, the bank owns the car, and they receive the proceeds from any payout. Many times, these are negotiated between the car owner and the insurance company. (When my own car was totaled, I had to negotiate to get the number I wanted for it). If the bank gets their payoff amount, they are satisfied. If they tell the insurance company they need $24K to pay off the loan, and the car is worth $25K, the insurance company is likely to say "fine, here is a check for $24K", then they are out of it. You have very little leverage, other than being a loyal customer. You definitely don't have any legal standing to recover any monies. It may be a possibility that the bank will receive more than the car is worth, and rebate the excess monies to you, but that would be a long shot as well.

    My advice still stands.. Don't make any cap cost reduction at lease inception. Then, you won't have to worry about it.


    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • kyfdxkyfdx Everywhere, USAPosts: 122,998
    There IS a difference between financing and a lease. If you finance the car, you own it, and the bank just has a financial interest. The only requirement is that their lien is paid off. They have no say in what value you get for the car if totaled, etc... If you lease it, they own it. You really have no financial interest in the car. Just an obligation to complete the terms of your contract.


    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • I'm in process of surveying best deal from local dealers and wanted to report the offers thus far: one dealer came in with $500 over invoice-- the second came back with invoice. Nothing as yet on getting 1.9% financing offered by BMW (though when I was visiting the lot, the sales guy said they're trying to get 2.9% from folks). Anyone had luck conducting the whole transaction via email? I'm wondering when to introduce the notion of a trade in...
  • lips3lips3 Posts: 1
    Requesting thoughts from the Forum...

    MSRP: $41,345.00
    Price to Pay: $38,565.00

    Price difference: $2,780.00

    X3 2.5i - Black Sapphire Metallic/Black Leather
              Cold Wx Package
              Premium Package
              Auto Transmission
              Xenon headlights
              Navigation System
              Mats included
              No processing fee
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