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Chevy Silverado - Continued V
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no, i got an LS. when i talked to a local dealer, the trucks we were looking (LS's) at had the head unit with the tape deck, and the cd player down in the middle of the center console. i asked him (expecting the worst) if by any chance chevy (read: ac delco) made a head unit with the cd player in it, as opposed to the tape deck. he said, "yes, but we don't have a remotely located tape deck." duh...no kidding, i don't want the tape deck. (and i think the cd player way down there just looks dumb - personal opinion). then he comes back with, "oh, and you also save $150-$200 too!" well no kidding, eh? and, as i read earlier, if you get the cd player with the head unit and no tape deck, the spot where the cd player WOULD be is an additional storage cubby. NOTE: there is no DOOR covering this area, so we're still stuck with only 14 doors.
by my count the doors go like this:
4 - regular doors to the cab
1 - hood
1 - tail gate
1 - fuel door
3 - overhead console
1 - sunglasses
1 - garage door opener
1 - misc storage
1 - ashtray
1 - glove box
1 - center console (armrest) storage area
1 - power port (cig lighter) cover
alrighty then, that should cover it. happy holidays everyone...
kyle
I've also heard the 5 spd had some reliablility problems. But those were always behind the 5.7L engines, and the 5.7 has too much torque for this transmission. The 4.8L has plenty of power, but does not overload the trans. Honestly, this transmission shifts like a truck transmission, not like a car. Not a problem, I'm driving a truck not a car.
I'm happy with the power of the 4.8L, even when loaded to 64-6500lbs. I get 15.5-16mpg loaded and over 20 empty.
21,500 trouble-free miles.
If you like to shift for yourself, get the 4.8L 5 spd, you won't be disappointed. It doesn't matter if nobody else likes your choice, as long as you are happy with it.
Mike L
5.3l
Autotrac
4:10 w/Locker
1. Excessive engine ping since brand new, even afer all computer updates, etc. Dealer will not do anything further. Pings on even 92 octane gas
2. ac/heater blower motor went out at 1,200 miles
Dealer replaced blower motor
3. Windshield popping since new - had to have windshield resealed
4. Rear diff clunks going into gear from park since new. New transfer case fluid helped, but did not fix.
5. passenger seat and rear extended cab seat rattles since new. No fix available.
6. extended cab pop out windows vibrate and rattle. Dealer replaced once, no fix. Jimmied the latches, noise much better, but still there.
7. Radio preset buttons and also on the ac/heater unit, the aluminated panel lights went out at 11k miles. Still not fixed. Dealer has to order new Stereo unit and blow control panel!
8. Steering pops and rattles, especially at low speeds and when braking. Louder when also turning left.
9. Idle quality is very poor. Dealer claims they all are! Nice fix GM.
By far this is the biggest piece of [non-permissible content removed] I have ever owned. I have always been a believer of buying American made trucks, but the Tundra sure is sounding good to me right now. Even in its first model year, it has had way less problems and way less severe problems.
I won't buy another GM till they get their head out of their [non-permissible content removed]!
Unix: Its derivative and that didnt hurt me the integrals got me i hate those damn things!!!
The advantage of having a remote CD instead of a remote cassette is that the remote single CD player might be replaced with an aftermarket CD changer. Or an audio DVD player. Or a CD player that can play MP3 files. Etc. In any case, as long as it talks back the to head unit properly it should work fine.
I've noticed that my head unit has 3 separate CD position controls. I'm not driving my truck today so I can't tell you what buttons they are assigned to. FF and REW change the position within the same track. Seek back and seek forward change the current track. There is also a Prev and a Next button - any idea what these do? Could they be used fora remote CD changer to switch between CDs?
To tell you the truth, after looking over your complaint list again, I think you are being way too picky about most of them. I think LEMON is a little too overboard for your situation. I've experienced about half of the same issues you mention, but I still think its the best truck I've ever owned (and I've owned many different makes).
It almost sounds like you are a first time Chevy buyer, and looking for excuses to get rid of it.
Leaving this ping as "normal" as GM puts it will have me replacing an engine at about $4k with labor, probably by 100k miles. Thats BS!
I read a post by someone else here with a valvetrain type noise and GM is buying back their truck. I want to know how to get that done. I may buy another Chevy. I am far from a first time Chevy truck owner, but I am not at all impressed with these new model GM trucks and so far the GM dealership service departments have been lazy [non-permissible content removed] union punks who don't give a rip about customer service. YES, I am pissed off! This is too much money for this many problems!
Can u go more in depth about the engine ping? I dont know what it is. Please explain a little more on this. I said most of the things were minor i meant noises not the engine thats a very big deal. I know i owuld be very pissed off if i got a truck that was bad. You have every right to be pissed. Have you taken your truck to any other dealers to be worked on? You should try that because if you keep taking it back to the same place they figure oh hes just being picky who cares u know. Good luck to you Bud.
Ryan
Prev and Next can also be used to change tracks on the current CD. (at least in identical Delco units that I have used in other GM vehicles).
Kevin
If they were smart last year, they are smart this year.
If you get an LT that has the cassette and CD....you will not be able to add a CD changer without losing the CD single or Cassette.
The head unit only has 2 inputs...
So lose the cassette I guess?
There are also RF type changers that go thru the radio frequency....I had one for several years...they work good....but you lose some high end tone....Radio does not have the freq. ratio of a CD.
Some people may not even notice...
Good Luck
- Tim
The engine noise sounds very similar to an exhaust manifold leak. It happens between 1500-2000 rpm and more loudly when under a load. It has quietened down a lot since the cool weather, but a more quiet problem noise is still a problem noise. It doesn't sound as much like a knock as it does a flutter, or exhaust leak. At steady cruising speeds like on the highway, it sounds almost like a vacuum leak or like a constant scraping of cardboard on a smooth surface. Every now and again, it sounds like a static electricity bolt, like a spark detonation.
Last attempt to fix, the dealer "decarbed" the engine. Seemed to help some, but did not resolve. It may be coincidence that the weather got real cool about that time too, so the decarb may not have done anything at all.
GM has blown me off completely and they say it is "normal engine noise" by design. I find that hard to believe as not everyone has complained of this and I have driven used trucks with more miles as well as brand new trucks, both just like mine, that did not make the noise.
It is in the shop as we speak for the steering column noise, again. Would be a little happier if they could ever get my trucks problems down to just one or two. I really think I got a bad one this time. I am so desparate to be rid of the problems with this thing I have considered a Dodge, in spite of their known transmission problems!
If you have any ideas, I would be glad to listen.
Ryan
The salesman called me, said the truck had passed all the tests and was being shipped today.
I told the salesman I would decide whether to take the truck after I had inspected it.
Has anybody heard of this smog check thing happening? I’m a little suspicious, since they didn’t bother to tell me this until after I had cancelled the order.
Ryan
1) Marketing cost savings - why make commercials a model that will be that would change over to the next year in 6 or 7 months. Why not for 1 1/2 years?
2) Parts costs - Why make parts for a model that would only be 6 or 7 months.
3) New model introduction - It takes about 3 - 6 months for a new model to gain acceptance from introduction. The extra time can be added into sales for that model year.
4) New model is ready early. GOOD NEWS!
5) Old model is selling poorly, Why make more of that model if they are just going to sit on the lots.
6) Quality, Production start-up, R & D problems make a reasonable product possible at the regular interval impossible.
7) Odd time release of new models have less immediate competition, therfore, can have the spotlight all to themselves.
This sounds neat! Anyone see it? thx
Ryan
I find out from a VP of the dealership that the salesperson was trying to sell it to another customer for more $$ than what was promised to me.
I just find "quality problems" & randomly picked "smog test" to be something totally different !! I wonder what's really gone on with your truck......
For your console dilemma, I say buy the LT you really want and just pull out the center console. It's a stuck-on afterthought anyway so can't be very hard to remove. You will likely need to buy the fold-out drink holder to fill the dash gap. Once you get over the outrageous price they'll charge you for it, you'll love your truck.
Anyone out there have the remote cassette player they want to get rid of?
There is a fix for #8.
Intermediate shaft- part no. 26083324
Sounds like you have lousy dealers in your area. Burt Chevrolet in Denver is very attentive to my concerns. A good dealer makes all the difference.
I do realize that is a minor problem considering all the other problems out there. But I paid a lot of money for my truck and I get very irritated by this noise. I don't think it asking to much for GM to figure out how to fix this.
I have tried many things to get rid of this noise, including trying different brands/grades of gasoline. The only thing that gets 80 - 90 % rid of the noise is to remove the driver's side manifold shield (which is apparently amplifying the noise).
I like my truck very much, and it is far better than the competition, but if you have this noise you will do anything to get rid of it. I have driven other trucks just like mine that do not have the noise, so I know it is not designed that way.
If anyone has any further info on this please let me know. (By the way I know there is a topic on this subject, but it has been stagnant for a while).
kyle
I applied this law to my 86 1/2 ton pick up that I bought brand new. It had a pinging problem, jerky shift from 1st to 2nd (auto trans) & rear wheel shimmy that the dealership just could not fix.
Went to arbitration hearing with all my records I kept related to these service calls (I went back 8 times for same problems before applying law)Talk about intimidating, there I was with arbitrator, dealerships service Mgr. & their Lawyer. I stated my case showed all records & we then went for a test drive to duplicate problems, Trans shift problem almost never happened until last stop light prior to returning to hearing room, when it did though i felt relieved, the service mgr. said "they all do that"luckily the arbitrator did'nt buy it & I won my case. GM bought back vehicle for full price less $500 due to the fact I had over 18,000 miles on vehicle by the time settlement happened.
There are lemons out there & it sucks if you happen to be on the recieving end of owning one, hang in there and stick to your guns if your right. But document everything.!
Hope this helps.
Ray T.
PS Just ordered my 2k 2500 2wd LS Ext cab 12/17 after being jerked around by another dealer for 4 months. He lost the sale needless to say. Expected delivery 2nd week of February.
If you remember what you put in that would be great...thanks
Kyle
Quadrunner500: I realize the owners manual states that some ping is normal, but GM is the only one that makes that claim and I think it is to cover their tail ends. NO OTHER MANUFACTURER makes such a claim and everyone knows that ANY PING is NOT NORMAL! I know you are trying to help and I really do appreciate it, but I know that ping is not normal on engines that are designed correctly. Sounds to me like in order to get that great gas mileage that the GM pull out of their [non-permissible content removed], they had to run these engines at the extreme limits and some of them like mine are running way too lean!
Will running a colder plug really help the problem? I am not too sold on the idea. To me, that just gives GM a cop out to fix the problem they should be dealing with anyway.
Kanton, Quad:
My truck has a Hypertech 180 degree thermostat.
I have had no problems with the heater (about the only thing that hasn't gone out so far) in the cold. Just takes a little longer to warm up, but only a fraction of time longer.
Thanks for everyones feedback. I am either going to get to the bottom of this problem or blow this thing up one. I will let everyone know which as it happens!
Can I get a full- floating Corp. 14 in the 2500? Is this axle available with the 4.10 ratio? How reliable is the semi-floating 14 on the trucks with 3.73 ratios.
What are the gear ratios with the automatic transmission?
I am new to this format and have little experience in GM products. I have owned Dodge for the past 10 years and enjoy them but looking for something a little more refinement
Where are the great web sites out there on the Silverado 2500?
Feel free to email me of line on this, I have a thousand questions.
thanks, Michael
Thanks.
First I noticed on my one day old truck that the fender lips already have holes that could be used for flare or flap installation. Those fender lips are so clean and nice that I think I may put something on to protect the paint. The Silverado brochure includes some "molded splash guards"......anyone have any experience with those.....how they look and how they install?
About $340 for flares seems kind of expensive, but they would look good on a pewter over gray truck if they were gray.....anyone get them already painted?
Secondly,,,, I always back off the wheel nuts and retorque to factory spec, as it keeps wheels and rotors a lot straighter. The owner's book says to use 140 ft.lbs., but that is a lot for alloy wheels. Most of the nuts were at about 90 ft.lbs., except for the wheel lock nuts (think the dealer put those on), which varied from about 90 to about 150. Glad I checked, especially with the right rear having one at 150 and the others at 90.
I asked at the 800 customer service number to check to clarify if they really mean 140 as a spec. She called back and said yes, and I said that they better tell the factories then. I just set all mine at 130, but intend to explore this more.
Ryan
I purchased front and rear flaps for less than $30 a pair. Installation was relatively easy once I understood the instructions.
Note be careful not to break the plastic plugs holding the fender liners in as my dealer did not have any in stock and I would up using some self tapping metal screws in their place.
I am quite happy with them.
I have heard cars that have what sounds like ping, but is actually something resonating in the exhaust pipes that is traces to the valve train. While I am not saying that this may be the case for the "mystery ping" mentioned here, but I do have a hard time believing that a modern computer-controlled engine could have a ping in the first place, but if it did, why isn't the computer setting any trouble codes?
Have you driven others to see if they sound the same?
As for trucks and SUVs meeting pollution levels of cars ... what took so long? Trucks use essentially the same engines with the same horsepower getting the same mileage, but they never met the smog levels? Give me a break.
Richard
I installed the Chevrolet molded splash guards on my truck and really like them. I paid $25 a pair plus tax for them. (Another dealer wanted $35 a pair.)
The GM wheel flares are a $180 factory installed option, for all four fenders, on the 1500 model and are standard on the 2500 model. It is my understanding that the GM molded splash guards will not work with the GM wheel flares.
The splash guards are installed using existing holes. No drilling is required. However, you will need a #40 torx socket or screwdriver to remove one screw at the bottom of each fender.
I do have a WARNING about these splash guards. To make the installation of my nerf bars easier, I temporarily removed the front ones. I discovered that even though they were tight, they were wearing the paint off. Before reinstalling them I gave the area a good coat of wax and then covered the area with a couple of layers of Scotch clear automotive tape. I applied the tape in the exact shape of the splash guard, and it does not show at all. Hopefully, this will help protect the paint.
Gary
The 6.0 is too new to have any longevity record but almost everyone has positive things to say about it. The most common negatives are rough idle and mediocre mileage. It's a smooth and strong motor once off idle though.
Have you installed other GM options?
Thank you,
AFS
kyle
I have the 2500 LT with the 6.0 and it's great.
For 3 years I yaked and had beer with one guy who tested the 6.0. He has seen many engines come and go. the 6.0 was one hell of a torture taker.
basically this guys job is to beat the hell out of engines.
They would freeze it for a week.....start it up...run wide open throttle for hours and hours...shut it down and freeze it.
Some tests were the opposite...with heat.
I remember one test was to run WOT...and pour sand down the intake until it seized up.
he says some engines come and go...and we never see them again.
Every engine they get...ends up be seized. But the one they saw come back most for tests was the 6.0.
He told me if he can only tell me one thing about the new Chevy Trucks....it would be get a 6.0!
So I did.
Good Luck
- Tim