Nah, I get to see it all the time. My friend bought it. What a good little car! She now has 74,000 miles on it, and so far, zero repairs of any sort except some tires and windshield wiper blades and the usual oil and filter changes. She still gets 35 mpg, too.
Sometimes I think I should have kept it and made a Mini-Cooper out of it---turbo, new suspension, bigger wheels, CAI, headers---but California emissions would have been a formidable obstacle. As it sits, the Mini just humiliates the Scion xA in speed and handling---but NOT in reliability!
@iluvmysephia1 said:
shifty - do ya ever miss your Scion xA?
@stever said:
xwesx mentions the 3.8l as being a good engine, but it sounds like the 4.0l is even better.
Well, they were both designed by the guy who was responsible for the likes of the '58 Mopar Wedge V-8, the Slant Six, and the 273/318/340/360 smallblock. The 2.2/2.5 that were used in K-cars too, but we won't hold that against him.
The engine started off as the 3.3, which was initially used in the likes of the Dodge Dynasty, Chrysler New Yorker, etc in 1990. Soon a 3.8 version was added. They also used it as the basis for the 3.5 OHC engine that debuted in the 1993 Intrepid, Concorde, etc. The 3.5 did have some problems in its early years, but the troubles were soon worked out. The 4.0 is another SOHC, based on the 3.5.
One problem with the 3.5, in later years at least, was that while the hp and torque numbers looked pretty good, the engine didn't have a very broad power curve, and it was rather peaky. As a result, a Mopar 3.5 with ~250 hp wasn't really any quicker than a GM/Buick 3.8 pushrod with the 200 hp setup. I think the 4.0 helped fix that problem. IIRC it didn't have much more peak hp than the 3.5, but power was better across a broader rpm range, and torque was much improved.
I found a 2005 Scion xA for sale at a used car place in Phoenix and we're heading to Tucson and Phoenix in a couple of weeks. I like the 5-speed in those, I test drove a 2006 Polar White Scion xA in Feb.2006 and took our son along for the ride. I loved the easy shifting - that was stellar. The car made you feel like you were going faster than you really were.
Wish I would have traded the 2001 Kia Sportage 4X4 for it. It was only $14,195 - pretty fair price for all you get. Had the fogs, MP3, steering wheel audio controls. This one is Phoenix looks pretty solid. 102,000 miles but these cars go 275, 000 miles. They want $5,800 for it - just what Kelley Blue Book says my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS is worth! I doubt a used car dealer would want to trade straight across, but if I do this, that would be my deal. No out-of-pocket expenses on my part or I walk. I would be interested in the Scion xA for it's 5-speed stick, silver color with nice alloys it already has on it and better gas mileage. Don't get me wrong, the '08 Lancer GTS has been a great car but I want better gas mileage. The Lancer GTS gets 25 city and 31 on the highway and handles like a dream. The ad says the 2005 Scion xA gets 31 city 37 highway. I want to know if it gets worse mileage when the compressor is on for the A/C, the Lancer only gets 26 mpg on the highway when the A/C is on. And it gets so hot down here in the desert SW - you see my point.
The xA is smaller, gets better gas mileage and has that great 1.5L engine Toyota put in those cars. Interesting thought, we're driving up to Phoenix to take our son home after spending the weekend with us in Tucson July 11-13. So we'll see if I'm still pining for this in a coupla weeks.
@Mr_Shiftright said:
I think I'd get my GF a nice used Miata automatic so she would stop mutilating the clutch on my Mini Cooper (pricey item, that) and then a clean compact pickup truck for yard work and hauling bicycles. My used truck advisor, Autogator Auto Wrecking, after a private conference on the pros and cons of various trucks, such as Ranger, Dakota, S10, Sonoma, B2600, etc. gave me the same old tired advice I always hear: "Buy a Toyota".
Being in Cali it probably isn't an issue but the Ranger and I presume the identical B2600 Mazda have serious rust issues in the rear frame & underbody in the salt belt. And of course the older Toyota Tacomas were recalled for similar issues.
yeah we don't have rust issues. Rangers do have their issues, though. Wouldn't be my first choice. The problem with used Toyota pickups is that they carry a very strong premium price here.
@stickguy said:
Gotta get Craig over here. He just posted in the projects thread he picked up another BMW
convertible with a Christmas tree dashboard.
This is the 4th elderly BMW that we've owned and I STILL haven't learned how vexatious these little Teutonic sweethearts can be.
It is a beautiful car that doesn't have as much as a parking lot ding. I showed it to a friend last night and he just could not believe it's a 1997.
Still, it's a BMW. The Check Engine light is now off but I expect it'll reappear. It managed to pass it's smog test. Only the air bag light is on now and from time to time the message center
tells me I have a Brake Light Circuit Problem. The brake lights work just fine.
All this because in my effort to find a 2000.00 car for a sweet 72 year old widow who is broke and has bone cancer, I just happened to spot the BMW on CL ten minutes after he posted the ad.
Of course I was heading out for a haircut and the BMW just HAPPENED fo be a half mile from the barber shop.
Honestly, the 3.8 was so incredibly antiquated by the time we got into Chryslers (started with an '05 Pacifica) that I always avoided it. The big reason for seeking out a Limited 2008 van was for the 4.0 but also, more importantly, the 6-speed trans. The other models were still using the old unreliable 4-speed.
The new 3.6 is smoother, quieter, and has a broader curve.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well he certainly has addressed all the 90s BMW weak spots, which can be a pretty long list. He knew what to look for, gotta say that.
My Price-O-Matic suggests to me, given the mileage, and the car's location, and also giving him some bonus points for upgrades, that about $7500 is fair market on the car.
Don't even think about registering this one in California.
Question with older M3s is always:
Did the owner thrash the hell out of it
What condition is the motor in (not the strongest link in the chain..er...drivetrain).
I had a first year design on the "round" Voyager (1995 I think) that had the 3.3L. Only about 150 HP IIRC, but decent torque. Plenty of power for anything I ever needed it to do.
@Mr_Shiftright said:
Well he certainly has addressed all the 90s BMW weak spots, which can be a pretty long list. He knew what to look for, gotta say that.
My Price-O-Matic suggests to me, given the mileage, and the car's location, and also giving him some bonus points for upgrades, that about $7500 is fair market on the car.
Don't even think about registering this one in California.
Question with older M3s is always:
Did the owner thrash the hell out of it
What condition is the motor in (not the strongest link in the chain..er...drivetrain).
Thanks for that appraisal. The current owner has auto-crossed it, but it ran really well. Of course, 200K miles is still 200K miles... and, it's never going to be less..
I was amazed at the condition... It's had way more money put into it than it's worth... Which I guess is what you want, but still 205K miles. It ran really well, and the cosmetics are really great.. But, this wouldn't be a toy... My son would be driving it as his only car.
If it had 120K miles, the asking price would be closer to $12K. The current owner says he bought the car from an engineer in Arizona, who did most of the work. The paint job is gorgeous. I'm just not sure I want to get back into keeping an old BMW fixed up. We did that with the E30, and it just got to be more than I wanted to deal with.
I feel sure I could get it for $8000-$8500.. but, I keep coming back to the miles..
The problems you are likely to have on a BMW that old with that many miles will be highly irritating if it's a weekend car and will quickly drive you and/or your son insane if it's a daily driver. That said, the list of repairs already done on that one is impressive.
Nice looking car. Montreal Blue is a gorgeous color, although not an ///M Color. Regardless, with 205K on the clock, you never know. Just in case, could you find a donor engine if the inevitable happens?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
It's not the drivetrain that would bother me if it was my only car, with 200+ on the clock. It would be the stuff like how weak are the cross members with that sort of use? How about the airbags? How long will they remain "safe"? I know for a while, manufacturers were talking about them having to be replaced after a period of time to make sure they worked correctly.
Window lifts? What's the life span of those?
Those are the things that don't get serviced.....at all. Those are the things that I would worry about.
Weekend car? Track car? I'd be all over it (albeit at closer to $7K). Daily driver? I'd have to pass, as that $7K car has a 50-50 shot at turning into a $15K car in short order.
Basically, in theory I mean, a car with 200K on it is, statistically speaking, pretty much used up. It's worth very little as a transportation product----it is no different than a 20 year old vacuum cleaner in that respect, or an old fridge. It's "done its job".
So what you're buying then is performance, or collectibility, or looks--but as a "thing", it's pretty much worn out---it may function and all that, but you have to deduct a substantial amount of money for that amount of mileage. You aren't just deducting for say 100,000 miles, --you are deducting for the SECOND 100,000 miles.
No doubt that some of the car's life has been extended, but not everything has been restored on the car, and taken as a whole complex system, it's still risky IMO.
Case in point: I'd pay $20K for a 2001 Porsche 996 Carrera with low miles, but I wouldn't pay any more than $12,000 for the same car with 150,000 miles. And at 200K, less than $10K.
@Mr_Shiftright said:
Basically, in theory I mean, a car with 200K on it is, statistically speaking, pretty much used up. It's worth very little as a transportation product----it is no different than a 20 year old vacuum cleaner in that respect, or an old fridge. It's "done its job".
Back in the 50's and 60's, you could install new engines and transmissions and if the frame was strong -- keep it going. Don't think anyone will be dropping a new engine into anything these days. A bit expensive and the neighborhood mechanic would be an unlikely resource.
Yes, that's true. Most new cars will be throwaways if the engine blows up after 10 years (or in some cases, right out of warranty). There are plenty of nice cars running around today that would be totaled if the engines gave out. This makes buying miled-up old luxury cars extremely risky unless the price is really right.
There are some newer cars where replacing the transmission would be more expensive than replacing the engine. And in some cases (older Cadillacs come to mind), electrical gremlins can drive you into bankruptcy.
All in all, I don't really want to have anything to do with a vehicle with 200k miles on it.
I've got a document with all the parts that have been bought for the car in the last three years... It's stunning.
Let's put it this way.. Structure, cosmetics, fiddly interior bits, suspension, transmission body... None of those will be an issue, due to age, because almost everything has been replaced. Suspension? Re-done with better than new. Exhaust? Replaced and upgraded. Cooling system? Completely re-done with better than factory parts. Body? Spotless, with brand new paint.
Worries? Transmission/driveshaft/clutch replaced with 6-speed unit from an E46.. While having the 6th gear is great, and a lot less miles than the original, mods like that always worry me.. The guy paid $3000 just for the used parts for that. Engine? It has 205K miles.. Sounds and feels tight, but who knows. Didn't see any records for a top-end overhaul.
Really... it's in as good a shape, overall, as any other E36 M3 that I've seen. But, I know what it takes to keep old BMWs in tip top shape, and it's a lot.. no matter what shape they are, when you start. The 205K miles has knocked about $4K off the entry fee, so you get to drive a lot of car for the money... Just not sure I want to go down that road, again.
I have to get a car by the end of October, one way or the other. I can still get something for me, and pass my BMW down to my son... Or, find something cheap for him.. Or, something!! LOL
Went to pick up my 535 this morning - as part of the sale, they agreed to repair a few cosmetic things - wheel rash on one wheel, a couple of marks on each bumper and a couple of door dings.
Well, the "fix" for the front and rear bumper marks was little more than dabbing some touch-up paint, which I could have done myself. After the service advisor claimed that was the best that could be done, I had the sales manager take a look at it, and he agreed he had expected more to be done to fix the blemishes.
So, I'm still driving around in the 428i - I think I may have put more miles on the loaner than my actual car!
Couple of questions for the more mechanically/technical savvy here:
When I dropped my 535i off last week, I noticed a nail in the tire, about 1-2 inches from the sidewall. The service advisor said it simply had to be replaced, as there may have been damage to the sidewall. So I paid the $400 for the tire to be replaced . Question is, I've read varying things on the 'net about the RFT - is that requirement for it to be replaced consistent with your experience?
Also, my wife is taking her son and mother on a road trip to California next week, driving the Odyssey. It's at about 75k miles, so I want to make sure all maintenance is up to date. At my recent oil change, the dealer recommended the following services: 1) Power steering fluid replacement, 2) Brake system fluid exchange, 3) Fuel induction service and 4) Auto trannie fluid service.
Unlike the old days, I can't seem to find a strict schedule of miles/years for these services. With a little research, it seems to me the brake system fluid is legit (3 years/30k miles), and the auto trannie fluid may be premature, but is not a bad idea. But the power steering fluid is supposedly "lifetime" per Honda (though I could see that being a 100k mile thing) and the fuel induction service is just a money maker. Thoughts?
I agree. Tranny fluid is cheap insurance. Brake fluid also, and Honda does require it.
Induction probably fluff. And my odyssey had about 3 PS pumps replaced, and a new crack, so the fluid never had a chance to get old. I would pass on that.
@breld said:
Couple of questions for the more mechanically/technical savvy here:
When I dropped my 535i off last week, I noticed a nail in the tire, about 1-2 inches from the sidewall. The service advisor said it simply had to be replaced, as there may have been damage to the sidewall. So I paid the $400 for the tire to be replaced . Question is, I've read varying things on the 'net about the RFT - is that requirement for it to be replaced consistent with your experience?
Also, my wife is taking her son and mother on a road trip to California next week, driving the Odyssey. It's at about 75k miles, so I want to make sure all maintenance is up to date. At my recent oil change, the dealer recommended the following services: 1) Power steering fluid replacement, 2) Brake system fluid exchange, 3) Fuel induction service and 4) Auto trannie fluid service.
Unlike the old days, I can't seem to find a strict schedule of miles/years for these services. With a little research, it seems to me the brake system fluid is legit (3 years/30k miles), and the auto trannie fluid may be premature, but is not a bad idea. But the power steering fluid is supposedly "lifetime" per Honda (though I could see that being a 100k mile thing) and the fuel induction service is just a money maker. Thoughts?
RE: Nail in tire. I had one in the RFT on the 335i probably 2in from the sidewall. Goodyear shop said 'our policy is to replace, not patch RFT's" I got a second opinion. NTB guy looked at it and said no problem. $25 later and I'm on down the road.
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
One more thing - when I was the dealership this morning attempting to pick up my car, I looked at a 428i Gran Coupe in the showroom. This I really like!
Sleeker styling than the 3 sedan, and offers the hatchback opening in the back I like from the 3 GT, but without the somewhat awkward look of that model.
Man - so many variants of the 3 series platform! I suppose it's nice for the consumer.
Auto Tranny Fluid - Make sure you tell them you just want a "drain & fill" as opposed to their "power purge transmission service."
Brake Fluid - Can't hurt to have this done. I think Honda advises every 3 years, I did it after 2 on the Pilot.
PS Fluid - Preventative. Again, just a drain & fill. Don't go for their "power service."
You don't need the "Fuel Induction Service." Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. When you say no to that, then they'll say: "Well it will increase your gas mileage slightly.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
@breld said:
One more thing - when I was the dealership this morning attempting to pick up my car, I looked at a 428i Gran Coupe in the showroom. This I really like!
Sleeker styling than the 3 sedan, and offers the hatchback opening in the back I like from the 3 GT, but without the somewhat awkward look of that model.
Man - so many variants of the 3 series platform! I suppose it's nice for the consumer.
Completely agree. Took the 335i in for service Saturday and browsed a bit (of course!) and my dealer had one in Carbon Black over Oyster. Absolutely stunning. This one was a 435i and had a sticker of 63k. Ouch. But I must be in the minority, as of this morning its off of their website.
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
unfortunately, many places are of the "replace tire" mindset. Patching or plugging has become "old school." I honestly don't know if its for monetary reasons or litigation reasons or a combination of the two. In any case, that's why I plug them myself at home. You can get the kit from Pep Boys or probably any other auto parts chain of your liking. FYI, plugging doesn't require remove the tire from the rim; patching does. Plugs work well for any puncture wound in the tread.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks for the tips - both on the Ody service and tire replacement.
Somewhat calling their bluff, I called the dealership to see if I could have the old tire with the nail in it - thinking I could take it to a tire store and if it could be repaired, I'd have a spare. Unfortunately, they told me the tire was already gone to the recycler.
Makes me feel a bit suspicious on whether it really needed to be replaced, but at this point, I'll just let it go and learn from it.
@qbrozen said:
unfortunately, many places are of the "replace tire" mindset. Patching or plugging has become "old school." I honestly don't know if its for monetary reasons or litigation reasons or a combination of the two. In any case, that's why I plug them myself at home. You can get the kit from Pep Boys or probably any other auto parts chain of your liking. FYI, plugging doesn't require remove the tire from the rim; patching does. Plugs work well for any puncture wound in the tread.
I will sheepishly admit that I don't know what they did. I dropped in on them and I used the word 'patch' but left the car since he had to fit me in and said it would be a couple of hours. He may have 'patched' or he may have 'plugged'. Either way I was glad to not be on the hook for 1 (or 2) new Bridgestone Potenza's!
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
RFTs can be repaired like any other tire so long as a cord isn’t exposed and the puncture is in a repairable area of the tire (not the sidewall). You do need to find a tire shop willing to repair them. The trade organizations used to recommend the use of an umbrella plug on all tires, which is a combination patch/plug that is installed from inside the tire and requires removing the tire from the rim.
I would say yes on the transmission service and brake fluid service on the Odyssey. On the brake fluid, a good rule of thumb is every 2-3 years regardless of mileage. The fluid absorbs water over time, mileage shouldn’t really affect it much. Probably no on the power steering fluid and definitely no on the fuel induction service.
@breld said:
Thanks for the tips - both on the Ody service and tire replacement.
Somewhat calling their bluff, I called the dealership to see if I could have the old tire with the nail in it - thinking I could take it to a tire store and if it could be repaired, I'd have a spare. Unfortunately, they told me the tire was already gone to the recycler.
Makes me feel a bit suspicious on whether it really needed to be replaced, but at this point, I'll just let it go and learn from it.
It wasn't their tire to "give" to the recycler. It's your tire. I'm thinking I'd want $50 for the tire they "stole".
I hate when shops try to pull that...regardless of the part. The old parts are mine, not theirs to do with as they wish.
I change my brake fluid every 2 or 3 years. I don't put a lot of miles on all my cars but if I did do 12k or more I'd change it every other year. Its cheap enough.
Did you know the average motorist who drives 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year uses his brakes about 75,000 times a year?
So consider this: After three years of service, the average boiling point of the brake fluid has dropped to a potentially dangerous level because of moisture contamination and may not meet minimum federal requirements for brake fluid.
Many experts have long recommend changing the brake fluid every year or two for preventative maintenance. Their rationale is based on the fact that glycol-based brake fluid starts to absorb moisture from the moment it is put in the system. The fluid attracts moisture through microscopic pores in rubber hoses, past seals and exposure to the air. The problem is obviously worse in wet climates where humidity is high.
After only a year of service, the brake fluid in the average vehicle may contain as much as two percent water. After 18 months, the level of contamination can be as high as three percent. And after several years of service, it is not unusual to find brake fluid that contains as much as seven to eight percent water.
I know many people who never change or even think about changing there brake fluid. Most people who lease vehicles could care less about doing it.
I definitely need to do something this summer. I have discussed with the wife about culling something from the fleet. I say if one stays and one goes, keep the TL. She says keep the Volvo (newer/lower miles by 7/70). This of course is if the dump both plan fails!
anyway, I know that continuing to rely on the 175K TL might not end well, but unless I have to start using it a bunch more, probably not soon. And no guarantee a 106K 2007 Volvo lasts forever! But a big part of my thinking is that the Volvo is worth more, and the TL is cheaper to insure.
but, I discovered today after driving the Volvo around all day (my daughter had a dental procedure done, and I had to transport her for the day) that dang, I really don't want to drive that again on a regular basis. must have gotten spoiled just driving the 2 "luxury" Acuras! mostly the Volvo is really stiff, and not at all happy on rough roads. Probably could use struts, but even newer, a pretty stiff ride. also kind of slow (fine for my daughter though!)
so, practical reasons aside, that one isn't going to win I don't think. if for some reason wife insists on ditching the TL before it does something bad, they are both going (sounds like so much fun, selling 2 on CL? oh, nuts).
so, to continue, that does bring me back to the dilemma. What to replace it with? Can't be something that takes much cash. And really don't want another major loan. So I guess that leaves a cheap lease, or something else old/miley. And if I am getting a cheap old car, might as well keep the one I got.
so, my tentative vision is to sell the Volvo as soon as the princess leaves for college, and use the TL while I shop for the deal of the century. Something is going to be too good to pass up around labor day. Bradd can just shop for me too!
just have to decide on a monthly $ gap. Wonder what I can get that I won't detest for $200/month? That too little?
the hardest part? Conceding no moonroof to stay at a price point. I think I will still require a power drivers seat, Sat radio and a back up camera. And alloys.
today the options I guess are Altima and Camry. With an Accord a dark horse if prices come down. Maybe a Sonata. Malibu? I do think I want to stay relatively mid-sized.
On the induction service, I had it done on the old Civic a couple months before it was traded and I noticed immediately that it drove better...better pickup and just felt like a more powerful vehicle. Maybe it was all in my mind but it did accelerate much better and quicker and at the time, was glad I did it. Luckily I got it done when they had a good sales price. I know the majority of folks say no, but at least for my Honda, it made a world of difference!
Funny, now that I have a bigger 4 cylinder engine, I just love the extra power and everything that goes with it. Whenever I get into a Civic now, either a 2013 or 2014, I wonder how I ever was content with it all those years? Getting in and out of these compact and sub compacts is more painful than I remember and for that alone, I am very happy that I did move into a slightly larger vehicle. The Tuscon seems to be about the same length as the Civic but a bit wider...from what I've read, it's been called "an Elantra on tip toes" and that about sums it up. I still use the same "X" on the garage wall when I pull in but when the wife's Mazda is already in, it's a bit harder to get out because it's that much closer to it. And I got the smallest cuv out there I suspect...I know if I had gotten that Escape I wanted, things would be different now as it was longer and wider than the Tuscon. Again, the only complaint is with the mileage but I knew this going in and I can live with that especially since I've changed my work schedule a bit...down to only one job and working Saturday's on a rotational basis now. I've definitely seen the weekly mileage numbers go down plus I fill it up less often also. Not a bad thing really as on my n/s days, I tend to stay around the house a lot more and make sure I have a few errands to do once I do go out instead of just going to do just one thing. And since we now put our vehicle purchases on dedicated credit cards, I can keep a closer view on our transportation expenses. As usual, I tend to like to live "below" our means and don't need the best or the newest...there's no one I need to keep up with!
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
A few weeks ago I struck up a conversation with a gentleman in a Passat TDI while refueling our Pilot. He turned out to be a sales dude @ the local VW dealership.
Fast forward to this afternoon. I call him up, leave a message, & he calls me back within 10 minutes. "I'll have a car outside ready for you to drive when I get here." So far, so good.
I show up, and immediately recognize the guy from the gas station. "Hey Bradd. Thanks for coming. I've got a car outside ready to go. Let me grab a plate and let's go for a ride."
The Passat is very well finished. Passes the "bang on the dashboard test" with flying colors. It is definitely a big car inside. Especially since I came from the Prelude. I settle into the leather with suede insert seats nicely.
He took me on a pretty extensive test drive on roads that I am very familiar with. It was a good mix of city & highway driving as well as curvy back roads. I was genuinely impressed with the Passat. It is very smooth and soaks up bumps and potholes very nicely. There is a Mercedes-esq rid quality to it.
The Diesel engine is smooth and quiet. You have to really try and listen for the clatter at idle. I felt the DSG drove very much like a conventional automatic.
I told the salesman my timeline (Labor Day Weekend), color, trim, & that I'd send my wife down to test drive the car.
A few notes about some cars I saw on the lot. A black/black used Audi RS5. This thing is sick. Mr. Bond, here is your new car.
A still brand new 2013 GTI Driver's Edition with DSG. Love the thickly bolstered seats. $31K sticker. I wonder how much buys that?
Stay tuned for more. Same bat time. Same bat channel.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
@breld said:
One more thing - when I was the dealership this morning attempting to pick up my car, I looked at a 428i Gran Coupe in the showroom. This I really like!
Sleeker styling than the 3 sedan, and offers the hatchback opening in the back I like from the 3 GT, but without the somewhat awkward look of that model.
Man - so many variants of the 3 series platform! I suppose it's nice for the consumer.
My son and I checked out a 435i M Sport Gran Coupe today- very kewl!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Fezo knows this already, but I had a slight fender-bender in the Mazda @3 weeks ago. Primarily cosmetic, but luckily the Mazda dealer in the southwest end of the county has an excellent body shop. It really looks nice. Once I get the rear bar installed I think it will take something extremely impressive to get me to part with the old sled. The added power, decent damping, and aggressive summer rubber have really transformed the car. I think I'd have to spend north of $35k to find something I'd like better- a CPO E92 M3, M235i, Boss 302, etc.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Just my pride; a guy in front of me was turning left and decided to stop in mid turn for no reason whatsoever and I tagged him. On the brighter side, the shop allowed me to bring them a couple of new xenon bulbs to install while they were replacing the front bumper cover. On a Mazda 3 you have to remove the front cover to replace the Xenons. Like BMW, Mazda wants around $200 per bulb; I got a pair of Philips bulbs from Amazon for $84. At seven years and 138,000 miles I knew they were liable to fail at any time.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
@roadburner said:
Just my pride; a guy in front of me was turning left and decided to stop in mid turn for no reason whatsoever and I tagged him. On the brighter side, the shop allowed me to bring them a couple of new xenon bulbs to install while they were replacing the front bumper cover. On a Mazda 3 you have to remove the front cover to replace the Xenons. Like BMW, Mazda wants around $200 per bulb; I got a pair of Philips bulbs from Amazon for $84. At seven years and 138,000 miles I knew they were liable to fail at any time.
Restating Bradd's comment, glad you're OK.
I find it infuriating that people, for no apparent reason, seem to stop, with no thought given to what is going on around them. Sounds like you experienced this, too.
Not sure, but it seems I'm using my horn a whole lot more than I used to these days.
I've said it many times (usually to myself as I'm driving), if you're afraid to drive, for any reason, weather, sunshine, traffic, it's a Wednesday, you need to text, you need to suck down a Big Mac....ANY REASON, stay off the road. This includes those innane folks who insist they must play a movie on a teeny, tiny screen in their minivan/SUV/truck/car. Turn that stuff off when you're driving...even if it's only in the back seat. It's bad for your eyes to watch that sort of stuff in a moving vehicle anyway.
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Nah, I get to see it all the time. My friend bought it. What a good little car! She now has 74,000 miles on it, and so far, zero repairs of any sort except some tires and windshield wiper blades and the usual oil and filter changes. She still gets 35 mpg, too.
Sometimes I think I should have kept it and made a Mini-Cooper out of it---turbo, new suspension, bigger wheels, CAI, headers---but California emissions would have been a formidable obstacle. As it sits, the Mini just humiliates the Scion xA in speed and handling---but NOT in reliability!
Well, they were both designed by the guy who was responsible for the likes of the '58 Mopar Wedge V-8, the Slant Six, and the 273/318/340/360 smallblock. The 2.2/2.5 that were used in K-cars too, but we won't hold that against him.
The engine started off as the 3.3, which was initially used in the likes of the Dodge Dynasty, Chrysler New Yorker, etc in 1990. Soon a 3.8 version was added. They also used it as the basis for the 3.5 OHC engine that debuted in the 1993 Intrepid, Concorde, etc. The 3.5 did have some problems in its early years, but the troubles were soon worked out. The 4.0 is another SOHC, based on the 3.5.
One problem with the 3.5, in later years at least, was that while the hp and torque numbers looked pretty good, the engine didn't have a very broad power curve, and it was rather peaky. As a result, a Mopar 3.5 with ~250 hp wasn't really any quicker than a GM/Buick 3.8 pushrod with the 200 hp setup. I think the 4.0 helped fix that problem. IIRC it didn't have much more peak hp than the 3.5, but power was better across a broader rpm range, and torque was much improved.
I found a 2005 Scion xA for sale at a used car place in Phoenix and we're heading to Tucson and Phoenix in a couple of weeks. I like the 5-speed in those, I test drove a 2006 Polar White Scion xA in Feb.2006 and took our son along for the ride. I loved the easy shifting - that was stellar. The car made you feel like you were going faster than you really were.
Wish I would have traded the 2001 Kia Sportage 4X4 for it. It was only $14,195 - pretty fair price for all you get. Had the fogs, MP3, steering wheel audio controls. This one is Phoenix looks pretty solid. 102,000 miles but these cars go 275, 000 miles. They want $5,800 for it - just what Kelley Blue Book says my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS is worth! I doubt a used car dealer would want to trade straight across, but if I do this, that would be my deal. No out-of-pocket expenses on my part or I walk. I would be interested in the Scion xA for it's 5-speed stick, silver color with nice alloys it already has on it and better gas mileage. Don't get me wrong, the '08 Lancer GTS has been a great car but I want better gas mileage. The Lancer GTS gets 25 city and 31 on the highway and handles like a dream. The ad says the 2005 Scion xA gets 31 city 37 highway. I want to know if it gets worse mileage when the compressor is on for the A/C, the Lancer only gets 26 mpg on the highway when the A/C is on. And it gets so hot down here in the desert SW - you see my point.
The xA is smaller, gets better gas mileage and has that great 1.5L engine Toyota put in those cars. Interesting thought, we're driving up to Phoenix to take our son home after spending the weekend with us in Tucson July 11-13. So we'll see if I'm still pining for this in a coupla weeks.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Being in Cali it probably isn't an issue but the Ranger and I presume the identical B2600 Mazda have serious rust issues in the rear frame & underbody in the salt belt. And of course the older Toyota Tacomas were recalled for similar issues.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
yeah we don't have rust issues. Rangers do have their issues, though. Wouldn't be my first choice. The problem with used Toyota pickups is that they carry a very strong premium price here.
convertible with a Christmas tree dashboard.
This is the 4th elderly BMW that we've owned and I STILL haven't learned how vexatious these little Teutonic sweethearts can be.
It is a beautiful car that doesn't have as much as a parking lot ding. I showed it to a friend last night and he just could not believe it's a 1997.
Still, it's a BMW. The Check Engine light is now off but I expect it'll reappear. It managed to pass it's smog test. Only the air bag light is on now and from time to time the message center
tells me I have a Brake Light Circuit Problem. The brake lights work just fine.
All this because in my effort to find a 2000.00 car for a sweet 72 year old widow who is broke and has bone cancer, I just happened to spot the BMW on CL ten minutes after he posted the ad.
Of course I was heading out for a haircut and the BMW just HAPPENED fo be a half mile from the barber shop.
Went to look at this one, today..
http://images.craigslist.org/00n0n_8oldyx1CNfM_600x450.jpg
And, this is the full ad..
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4506523050.html
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Honestly, the 3.8 was so incredibly antiquated by the time we got into Chryslers (started with an '05 Pacifica) that I always avoided it. The big reason for seeking out a Limited 2008 van was for the 4.0 but also, more importantly, the 6-speed trans. The other models were still using the old unreliable 4-speed.
The new 3.6 is smoother, quieter, and has a broader curve.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well he certainly has addressed all the 90s BMW weak spots, which can be a pretty long list. He knew what to look for, gotta say that.
My Price-O-Matic suggests to me, given the mileage, and the car's location, and also giving him some bonus points for upgrades, that about $7500 is fair market on the car.
Don't even think about registering this one in California.
Question with older M3s is always:
I had a first year design on the "round" Voyager (1995 I think) that had the 3.3L. Only about 150 HP IIRC, but decent torque. Plenty of power for anything I ever needed it to do.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
And since us minivan drivers are regularly hitting triple digits, that's a big reason to go with the 4.0l.
AND???
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks for that appraisal. The current owner has auto-crossed it, but it ran really well. Of course, 200K miles is still 200K miles... and, it's never going to be less..
I was amazed at the condition... It's had way more money put into it than it's worth... Which I guess is what you want, but still 205K miles. It ran really well, and the cosmetics are really great.. But, this wouldn't be a toy... My son would be driving it as his only car.
If it had 120K miles, the asking price would be closer to $12K. The current owner says he bought the car from an engineer in Arizona, who did most of the work. The paint job is gorgeous. I'm just not sure I want to get back into keeping an old BMW fixed up. We did that with the E30, and it just got to be more than I wanted to deal with.
I feel sure I could get it for $8000-$8500.. but, I keep coming back to the miles..
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I know.. mulling it over.. lol
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For $7,500 if it was by me I might do it. Of course it would be my low mile semi-toy so miles not a big deal. Heck my DD has 175k now!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The problems you are likely to have on a BMW that old with that many miles will be highly irritating if it's a weekend car and will quickly drive you and/or your son insane if it's a daily driver. That said, the list of repairs already done on that one is impressive.
@kyfdx
Nice looking car. Montreal Blue is a gorgeous color, although not an ///M Color. Regardless, with 205K on the clock, you never know. Just in case, could you find a donor engine if the inevitable happens?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
It's not the drivetrain that would bother me if it was my only car, with 200+ on the clock. It would be the stuff like how weak are the cross members with that sort of use? How about the airbags? How long will they remain "safe"? I know for a while, manufacturers were talking about them having to be replaced after a period of time to make sure they worked correctly.
Window lifts? What's the life span of those?
Those are the things that don't get serviced.....at all. Those are the things that I would worry about.
Weekend car? Track car? I'd be all over it (albeit at closer to $7K). Daily driver? I'd have to pass, as that $7K car has a 50-50 shot at turning into a $15K car in short order.
Basically, in theory I mean, a car with 200K on it is, statistically speaking, pretty much used up. It's worth very little as a transportation product----it is no different than a 20 year old vacuum cleaner in that respect, or an old fridge. It's "done its job".
So what you're buying then is performance, or collectibility, or looks--but as a "thing", it's pretty much worn out---it may function and all that, but you have to deduct a substantial amount of money for that amount of mileage. You aren't just deducting for say 100,000 miles, --you are deducting for the SECOND 100,000 miles.
No doubt that some of the car's life has been extended, but not everything has been restored on the car, and taken as a whole complex system, it's still risky IMO.
Case in point: I'd pay $20K for a 2001 Porsche 996 Carrera with low miles, but I wouldn't pay any more than $12,000 for the same car with 150,000 miles. And at 200K, less than $10K.
Back in the 50's and 60's, you could install new engines and transmissions and if the frame was strong -- keep it going. Don't think anyone will be dropping a new engine into anything these days. A bit expensive and the neighborhood mechanic would be an unlikely resource.
Yes, that's true. Most new cars will be throwaways if the engine blows up after 10 years (or in some cases, right out of warranty). There are plenty of nice cars running around today that would be totaled if the engines gave out. This makes buying miled-up old luxury cars extremely risky unless the price is really right.
There are some newer cars where replacing the transmission would be more expensive than replacing the engine. And in some cases (older Cadillacs come to mind), electrical gremlins can drive you into bankruptcy.
All in all, I don't really want to have anything to do with a vehicle with 200k miles on it.
I've got a document with all the parts that have been bought for the car in the last three years... It's stunning.
Let's put it this way.. Structure, cosmetics, fiddly interior bits, suspension, transmission body... None of those will be an issue, due to age, because almost everything has been replaced. Suspension? Re-done with better than new. Exhaust? Replaced and upgraded. Cooling system? Completely re-done with better than factory parts. Body? Spotless, with brand new paint.
Worries? Transmission/driveshaft/clutch replaced with 6-speed unit from an E46.. While having the 6th gear is great, and a lot less miles than the original, mods like that always worry me.. The guy paid $3000 just for the used parts for that. Engine? It has 205K miles.. Sounds and feels tight, but who knows. Didn't see any records for a top-end overhaul.
Really... it's in as good a shape, overall, as any other E36 M3 that I've seen. But, I know what it takes to keep old BMWs in tip top shape, and it's a lot.. no matter what shape they are, when you start. The 205K miles has knocked about $4K off the entry fee, so you get to drive a lot of car for the money... Just not sure I want to go down that road, again.
I have to get a car by the end of October, one way or the other. I can still get something for me, and pass my BMW down to my son... Or, find something cheap for him.. Or, something!! LOL
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205K is a lot of miles for an M3 engine.
No argument there..
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Went to pick up my 535 this morning - as part of the sale, they agreed to repair a few cosmetic things - wheel rash on one wheel, a couple of marks on each bumper and a couple of door dings.
Well, the "fix" for the front and rear bumper marks was little more than dabbing some touch-up paint, which I could have done myself. After the service advisor claimed that was the best that could be done, I had the sales manager take a look at it, and he agreed he had expected more to be done to fix the blemishes.
So, I'm still driving around in the 428i - I think I may have put more miles on the loaner than my actual car!
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
Couple of questions for the more mechanically/technical savvy here:
When I dropped my 535i off last week, I noticed a nail in the tire, about 1-2 inches from the sidewall. The service advisor said it simply had to be replaced, as there may have been damage to the sidewall. So I paid the $400 for the tire to be replaced
. Question is, I've read varying things on the 'net about the RFT - is that requirement for it to be replaced consistent with your experience?
Also, my wife is taking her son and mother on a road trip to California next week, driving the Odyssey. It's at about 75k miles, so I want to make sure all maintenance is up to date. At my recent oil change, the dealer recommended the following services: 1) Power steering fluid replacement, 2) Brake system fluid exchange, 3) Fuel induction service and 4) Auto trannie fluid service.
Unlike the old days, I can't seem to find a strict schedule of miles/years for these services. With a little research, it seems to me the brake system fluid is legit (3 years/30k miles), and the auto trannie fluid may be premature, but is not a bad idea. But the power steering fluid is supposedly "lifetime" per Honda (though I could see that being a 100k mile thing) and the fuel induction service is just a money maker. Thoughts?
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
I agree. Tranny fluid is cheap insurance. Brake fluid also, and Honda does require it.
Induction probably fluff. And my odyssey had about 3 PS pumps replaced, and a new crack, so the fluid never had a chance to get old. I would pass on that.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
RE: Nail in tire. I had one in the RFT on the 335i probably 2in from the sidewall. Goodyear shop said 'our policy is to replace, not patch RFT's" I got a second opinion. NTB guy looked at it and said no problem. $25 later and I'm on down the road.
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
One more thing - when I was the dealership this morning attempting to pick up my car, I looked at a 428i Gran Coupe in the showroom. This I really like!
Sleeker styling than the 3 sedan, and offers the hatchback opening in the back I like from the 3 GT, but without the somewhat awkward look of that model.
Man - so many variants of the 3 series platform! I suppose it's nice for the consumer.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
@breld
Auto Tranny Fluid - Make sure you tell them you just want a "drain & fill" as opposed to their "power purge transmission service."
Brake Fluid - Can't hurt to have this done. I think Honda advises every 3 years, I did it after 2 on the Pilot.
PS Fluid - Preventative. Again, just a drain & fill. Don't go for their "power service."
You don't need the "Fuel Induction Service." Sounds like a bunch of BS to me. When you say no to that, then they'll say: "Well it will increase your gas mileage slightly.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Completely agree. Took the 335i in for service Saturday and browsed a bit (of course!) and my dealer had one in Carbon Black over Oyster. Absolutely stunning. This one was a 435i and had a sticker of 63k. Ouch. But I must be in the minority, as of this morning its off of their website.
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
unfortunately, many places are of the "replace tire" mindset. Patching or plugging has become "old school." I honestly don't know if its for monetary reasons or litigation reasons or a combination of the two. In any case, that's why I plug them myself at home. You can get the kit from Pep Boys or probably any other auto parts chain of your liking. FYI, plugging doesn't require remove the tire from the rim; patching does. Plugs work well for any puncture wound in the tread.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks for the tips - both on the Ody service and tire replacement.
Somewhat calling their bluff, I called the dealership to see if I could have the old tire with the nail in it - thinking I could take it to a tire store and if it could be repaired, I'd have a spare. Unfortunately, they told me the tire was already gone to the recycler.
Makes me feel a bit suspicious on whether it really needed to be replaced, but at this point, I'll just let it go and learn from it.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
Two 2015 GTI reviews - manual trans & DSG:
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/hatchbacks/1406_2015_volkswagen_golf_gti_first_test/
Still not test driven 1 . . .
I will sheepishly admit that I don't know what they did. I dropped in on them and I used the word 'patch' but left the car since he had to fit me in and said it would be a couple of hours. He may have 'patched' or he may have 'plugged'. Either way I was glad to not be on the hook for 1 (or 2) new Bridgestone Potenza's!
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Limited Velvet Red over Wicker Beige
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
RFTs can be repaired like any other tire so long as a cord isn’t exposed and the puncture is in a repairable area of the tire (not the sidewall). You do need to find a tire shop willing to repair them. The trade organizations used to recommend the use of an umbrella plug on all tires, which is a combination patch/plug that is installed from inside the tire and requires removing the tire from the rim.
I would say yes on the transmission service and brake fluid service on the Odyssey. On the brake fluid, a good rule of thumb is every 2-3 years regardless of mileage. The fluid absorbs water over time, mileage shouldn’t really affect it much. Probably no on the power steering fluid and definitely no on the fuel induction service.
It wasn't their tire to "give" to the recycler. It's your tire. I'm thinking I'd want $50 for the tire they "stole".
I hate when shops try to pull that...regardless of the part. The old parts are mine, not theirs to do with as they wish.
I change my brake fluid every 2 or 3 years. I don't put a lot of miles on all my cars but if I did do 12k or more I'd change it every other year. Its cheap enough.
Did you know the average motorist who drives 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year uses his brakes about 75,000 times a year?
So consider this: After three years of service, the average boiling point of the brake fluid has dropped to a potentially dangerous level because of moisture contamination and may not meet minimum federal requirements for brake fluid.
Many experts have long recommend changing the brake fluid every year or two for preventative maintenance. Their rationale is based on the fact that glycol-based brake fluid starts to absorb moisture from the moment it is put in the system. The fluid attracts moisture through microscopic pores in rubber hoses, past seals and exposure to the air. The problem is obviously worse in wet climates where humidity is high.
After only a year of service, the brake fluid in the average vehicle may contain as much as two percent water. After 18 months, the level of contamination can be as high as three percent. And after several years of service, it is not unusual to find brake fluid that contains as much as seven to eight percent water.
I know many people who never change or even think about changing there brake fluid. Most people who lease vehicles could care less about doing it.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I definitely need to do something this summer. I have discussed with the wife about culling something from the fleet. I say if one stays and one goes, keep the TL. She says keep the Volvo (newer/lower miles by 7/70). This of course is if the dump both plan fails!
anyway, I know that continuing to rely on the 175K TL might not end well, but unless I have to start using it a bunch more, probably not soon. And no guarantee a 106K 2007 Volvo lasts forever! But a big part of my thinking is that the Volvo is worth more, and the TL is cheaper to insure.
but, I discovered today after driving the Volvo around all day (my daughter had a dental procedure done, and I had to transport her for the day) that dang, I really don't want to drive that again on a regular basis. must have gotten spoiled just driving the 2 "luxury" Acuras! mostly the Volvo is really stiff, and not at all happy on rough roads. Probably could use struts, but even newer, a pretty stiff ride. also kind of slow (fine for my daughter though!)
so, practical reasons aside, that one isn't going to win I don't think. if for some reason wife insists on ditching the TL before it does something bad, they are both going (sounds like so much fun, selling 2 on CL? oh, nuts).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
so, to continue, that does bring me back to the dilemma. What to replace it with? Can't be something that takes much cash. And really don't want another major loan. So I guess that leaves a cheap lease, or something else old/miley. And if I am getting a cheap old car, might as well keep the one I got.
so, my tentative vision is to sell the Volvo as soon as the princess leaves for college, and use the TL while I shop for the deal of the century. Something is going to be too good to pass up around labor day. Bradd can just shop for me too!
just have to decide on a monthly $ gap. Wonder what I can get that I won't detest for $200/month? That too little?
the hardest part? Conceding no moonroof to stay at a price point. I think I will still require a power drivers seat, Sat radio and a back up camera. And alloys.
today the options I guess are Altima and Camry. With an Accord a dark horse if prices come down. Maybe a Sonata. Malibu? I do think I want to stay relatively mid-sized.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
On the induction service, I had it done on the old Civic a couple months before it was traded and I noticed immediately that it drove better...better pickup and just felt like a more powerful vehicle. Maybe it was all in my mind but it did accelerate much better and quicker and at the time, was glad I did it. Luckily I got it done when they had a good sales price. I know the majority of folks say no, but at least for my Honda, it made a world of difference!
Funny, now that I have a bigger 4 cylinder engine, I just love the extra power and everything that goes with it. Whenever I get into a Civic now, either a 2013 or 2014, I wonder how I ever was content with it all those years? Getting in and out of these compact and sub compacts is more painful than I remember and for that alone, I am very happy that I did move into a slightly larger vehicle. The Tuscon seems to be about the same length as the Civic but a bit wider...from what I've read, it's been called "an Elantra on tip toes" and that about sums it up. I still use the same "X" on the garage wall when I pull in but when the wife's Mazda is already in, it's a bit harder to get out because it's that much closer to it. And I got the smallest cuv out there I suspect...I know if I had gotten that Escape I wanted, things would be different now as it was longer and wider than the Tuscon. Again, the only complaint is with the mileage but I knew this going in and I can live with that especially since I've changed my work schedule a bit...down to only one job and working Saturday's on a rotational basis now. I've definitely seen the weekly mileage numbers go down plus I fill it up less often also. Not a bad thing really as on my n/s days, I tend to stay around the house a lot more and make sure I have a few errands to do once I do go out instead of just going to do just one thing. And since we now put our vehicle purchases on dedicated credit cards, I can keep a closer view on our transportation expenses. As usual, I tend to like to live "below" our means and don't need the best or the newest...there's no one I need to keep up with!
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
CCBA Test Drive: 2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL
A few weeks ago I struck up a conversation with a gentleman in a Passat TDI while refueling our Pilot. He turned out to be a sales dude @ the local VW dealership.
Fast forward to this afternoon. I call him up, leave a message, & he calls me back within 10 minutes. "I'll have a car outside ready for you to drive when I get here." So far, so good.
I show up, and immediately recognize the guy from the gas station. "Hey Bradd. Thanks for coming. I've got a car outside ready to go. Let me grab a plate and let's go for a ride."
The Passat is very well finished. Passes the "bang on the dashboard test" with flying colors. It is definitely a big car inside. Especially since I came from the Prelude. I settle into the leather with suede insert seats nicely.
He took me on a pretty extensive test drive on roads that I am very familiar with. It was a good mix of city & highway driving as well as curvy back roads. I was genuinely impressed with the Passat. It is very smooth and soaks up bumps and potholes very nicely. There is a Mercedes-esq rid quality to it.
The Diesel engine is smooth and quiet. You have to really try and listen for the clatter at idle. I felt the DSG drove very much like a conventional automatic.
I told the salesman my timeline (Labor Day Weekend), color, trim, & that I'd send my wife down to test drive the car.
A few notes about some cars I saw on the lot. A black/black used Audi RS5. This thing is sick. Mr. Bond, here is your new car.
A still brand new 2013 GTI Driver's Edition with DSG. Love the thickly bolstered seats. $31K sticker. I wonder how much buys that?
Stay tuned for more. Same bat time. Same bat channel.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
My son and I checked out a 435i M Sport Gran Coupe today- very kewl!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Fezo knows this already, but I had a slight fender-bender in the Mazda @3 weeks ago. Primarily cosmetic, but luckily the Mazda dealer in the southwest end of the county has an excellent body shop. It really looks nice. Once I get the rear bar installed I think it will take something extremely impressive to get me to part with the old sled. The added power, decent damping, and aggressive summer rubber have really transformed the car. I think I'd have to spend north of $35k to find something I'd like better- a CPO E92 M3, M235i, Boss 302, etc.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Obviously you weren't hurt. Glad you are OK and the car is back on the road again.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Just my pride; a guy in front of me was turning left and decided to stop in mid turn for no reason whatsoever and I tagged him. On the brighter side, the shop allowed me to bring them a couple of new xenon bulbs to install while they were replacing the front bumper cover. On a Mazda 3 you have to remove the front cover to replace the Xenons. Like BMW, Mazda wants around $200 per bulb; I got a pair of Philips bulbs from Amazon for $84. At seven years and 138,000 miles I knew they were liable to fail at any time.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Restating Bradd's comment, glad you're OK.
I find it infuriating that people, for no apparent reason, seem to stop, with no thought given to what is going on around them. Sounds like you experienced this, too.
Not sure, but it seems I'm using my horn a whole lot more than I used to these days.
I've said it many times (usually to myself as I'm driving), if you're afraid to drive, for any reason, weather, sunshine, traffic, it's a Wednesday, you need to text, you need to suck down a Big Mac....ANY REASON, stay off the road. This includes those innane folks who insist they must play a movie on a teeny, tiny screen in their minivan/SUV/truck/car. Turn that stuff off when you're driving...even if it's only in the back seat. It's bad for your eyes to watch that sort of stuff in a moving vehicle anyway.
Rant over!
On a somewhat different note
http://www.businessweek.com/news/2014-06-24/bmw-tops-porsche-corvette-in-consumer-reports-review
= Ray
DID drive a M235i - twice, in fact....
And? Did you agree with business week?