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Comments
I was wondering how much a mildly optioned T-Bird would go for if it was in good condition in a nice color for that era (like red, baby blue, or muted yellow)? I'm more interested in "show" rather than "go" so I could skip the hardtop, wire wheels, big engine, etc. I'd just want a nice driver with no issues.
I have to warn you though they aren't much fun to drive at speed...it's stricly a putt-putt in the sun type of car on a not-too-warm day. Atrocious handling, great looks, plenty of engine and transmission heat wafting through the firewall.
All of these things are correctable of course if you don't mind mild modifications which are completely reversible.
Some good shocks, radial tires, stiffer springs, Dyna-mat under the carpeting and a brake overhaul with dual-master-cylinder system would all be very very advisable.
Also I don't recommend the 3-speed manual floorshift.
The engine was recently replaced and it looks brand new under the hood, inside, and even underneath.
But $2,300 sounds fair enough for a nice clean car of ANY make model or year.
Sometimes I wish my tastes ran toward more expensive cars. That way I could go into debt over one Hemi Cuda or something, and just be done with it!
I forget, how many miles does that blue New Yorker have on it and how many are currently on the Fifth Avenue?
My '79 5th Ave has about 92,000 miles on it, and the blue one has about 64,000. I probably should have bought that blue 1980 NYer we saw at the 2006 Mopar Nats. It was just about flawless and I think it only had 34,000 miles on it. I think the seller wanted $4300 for it. There's no way I'd be able to get either one of my New Yorkers looking that good for $4300.
The only thing I didn't like about that '80 is that it only had a 318-2bbl, with all of 120 hp. My '79's really aren't all that fast with the 150 hp 360-2bbl, so I can't imagine how slow one of these would be with 30 less hp and probably 40+ fewer ft-lb of torque.
Supposedly the '80 R-bodies were much better-built than the 1979's, too.
one thing, though:
GOOD POWER, GREAT STEERING AND TIGHT FRONT END ALONG WITH EXCELLENT BRAKES
Sooo... that means its better now than when it was factory new? ;b
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
$9K--$12K is all the real money for these cars.
This might have character
"Dual axel" -- obviously he means dual rear wheels. I can't stand it when people name their cars or call them "she."
56 Chieftain -- seems a bit high considering its condition and the fact that it's a wagon and a base model. I like the colors though!
I think it would look better in Plum Crazy (Mopar purple).
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/car/372397948.html
Pontiac and Chevy were both on the corporate "A" body platform, just with different wheelbases, but I'm not sure where they stuck on the extra length for the Pontiacs. Once they started making the pricier Pontiacs bigger than the cheap ones, in 1955, they usually just stuck on the extra length in the rear deck on 2- and 4-door models. The passenger cabin was the same, but the rear quarter panels were stretched out, and either the trunk lid was longer, or the spacer panel between the rear window and the decklid was longer. But you can't do that with a wagon, so wagons usually shared the same wheelbase and body.
I guess with the Chevy versus the Pontiac, maybe they tacked on the extra length ahead of the firewall? Basically just resulting in a longer hood and fenders?
"It currently is not running because of an electrical problem" - you can guess the nationality and maybe even the make of this car from that statement alone
My grandparents had an '82 Malibu Classic wagon with that engine, the Chevy 229, and it was a dog. But maybe with no a/c, a few more hp (the '80 had 115, versus 110 for the '82), and the stick shift, that 80 might not be too bad.
FWIW, I didn't think my '80 coupe, which had the 229, was bad at the time. But I'm sure if I had to go back to driving something that slow, I'd hate it today!
You can fix an MGB with debris you find on the side of the road. I can't imagine why finding an electrical problem on this car could be hard. We are talking 1925 technology here.
Repeat after me: "Lucas, Prince of Darkness ..."
Wish it were closer to me.
I do notice the car is wearing the old style plates, which were mandated out about 10 years ago. That might mean the car has been laid up for a long time.
I always tell MG owners that the first thing you do when you buy one is replace a)the battery cables and b) the fuses. Bingo---90% of your electrical problems are gone.
I always tell MG owners that the first thing you do when you buy one is replace a)the battery cables and b) the fuses. Bingo---90% of your electrical problems are gone.
We bought that painless wiring GM harness thing. It was kind of fun to have windshield wipers, lights, and radio...wait... all at the same time.
Nah, that never happens.