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I just LOVE driving these old rigs. I thought the mileage was OK until I discovered I have a THIRTY gallon tank. Ouch. I still wish it was a stick, though ;->
I do not want to talk about blind spots.
-Mathias
I had the opposite experience of that with my truck back in college. Well, back then it was grandmom's truck. Granddad had passed away fairly recently, but Grandmom held onto it for a few years before giving it to my Mom. Anyway, before this '85, Granddad had a '76 GMC Crew Cab, and I remember it had dual 20 gallon saddle tanks. So I just figured the '85 had 20 gallon tanks, too. Back then, it usually got about 15 mpg in local driving, and I don't know how we managed this in retrospect, but we were able to break 20 on highway trips.
Well, one day, the gas gauge was reading low, but doing the math in my head (15 mpg x 20 gallon tank) I figured I still had a plenty of fuel left before needing to switch tanks. Then, going home from college, the thing just died about 500 feet from a Shell station. I couldn't get it re-started, and finally gave up and went down to the Shell station to see if they'd tow it home for me.
The tow truck driver checked it out, and said he thought it was just out of gas. So I switched tanks, and it fired right up! That little lesson cost me a $20 service call.
The next time I saw my uncle and told him about what happened, he just looked at me like I lost my mind. "What made you think that truck has 20 gallon tanks?" he asked. They're only 16. D'oh! :surprise:
My weekend driver is a 1995 Cannondale Super-V 1000 (with the Carbon Fiber swingarm) or '95 R1000.
There is a big following for the VW campers up through the "Realta" conversions to motorhomes. The Sychro campers are kind of rare (and have an interesting and $$ assembly process) and of course have a cult like following. I don't know if craigslist is going to get it done for that guy, but eBay or thesamba might be a better venue.
Other then the acceleration was on par with watching paint dry and they could be a little tricky in strong crosswinds, they are easy to drive, have a pretty good turning circle, and can hold a lot of mountain bikes/gear.
I know motorhomes can be pretty powerful with the right Diesel engine, but I imagine that forcing a 440 engine to pull around 4+ tons is every bit as painful as forcing the VW camper's little engine to move its bulk around?
I've also heard that smaller RV's, like the VW, or many van conversions, are VERY expensive to repair/restore, because all the components inside are miniaturized. I mean, they're miniaturized on a "real" motorhome as well, but tend to be shrunk down even further for the van conversions.
I kinda liked the layout of that Travco I looked at, though. As small as it was, 22 feet, it still had a private bedroom squite in back. The main area where the compromised space was that the passenger seat up front was reversible. Either you could face forward, or flip it and it would become part of the dinette.
I really like driving the Vanagon, but I'd stay away from the 4wd ones... the whole thing is a great "spare car", just so long as you have a good daily driver...
-Mathias
That old Dodge van just needs some good tires a wheel alignment and probably a few fancy tie rod ends and you'd have a whole new van there....
The problem with the VW vans is that you can stuff more into them then they are really capable of hauling...their mouth is bigger than their muscles, and so----KABOOM! for that poor engine.
I'm currently violating my rule of "if a beater, then have ANOTHER beater", so the van is my only ride.
I did expect problems with an '85 that had been sitting for a while, and I have not been disappointed... No sooner was my '07 Silverado sold than the following problem cropped up:
When the ignition is on -- even with the engine off -- there is a clicking noise somewhere under the dash and the voltage dips, then comes back up immediately.
Upon popping the hood, there are actually two noises; a "pop" kind of noise, like a tiny explosion from around the alternator, simultaneous with (perhaps a split second later) a "sproingy" kind of noise, like a bimetal strip letting go, or a plucked spring. Thhis noise comes from around the dashboard, between the steering column and the left side of the car, somewhere near the firewall.
The voltmeter dips to "around 8 Volts", and I measure 12.5 down to 10 right at the battery terminals with a fluke meter. All lights dim for a moment when this happens.
This happens every 3-to-8 seconds when the car is cold, and sometimes goes away for a while when everything is warmed up.
The big clue has to be that the engine doesn't have to be running. The battery is handling it so far, so I'm gonna let it go until after my vacation (leaving Tuesday).
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
-Mathias
I have a tiny window to buy it if I want to. I haven't even seen it yet but will be able to see it sometime next week. It has 71,000 miles on it and is black. The VIN is
WBSBG9333XEY82298
The only thing I remember about M3s from that era is either sub frame mounts or rear diff mounts flex and brake if abused and the engine can be a hand grenade.
Anything else I am forgeting?
And you are interested in this BMW because?
This isn't all that mysterious, seeing as how Porsche and VW were part of the same company at the time; the details escape me, but they certainly worked cheek-by-jowl. The Vanagon engine is related to the 914 engine in some way; I forget the details.
Nebulously yours,
-Mathias
Yes you COULD put a Porsche engine in a VW camper or whatever, but your engine would be worth about three times as much as your van, so that's kind of weird. Also you'd have to improve braking and suspension with disc brakes, sway bars, better shocks, tires and wheels, etc or you will definitely kill yourself. I've seen brake conversions done. A friend just did it. Maybe I can find some pix. He's going to put a Porsche 996 and tiptronic into his Camper. But he owns a Porsche shop, so he knows what he's doing. The engine and trans both come out of wrecks, of which there are plenty around.
Volksbaru
There are a couple of companies that make motor mounts and changeover kits that allow basically anything imaginable crammed back there.
Rear lower control arms...they are a maintenance item but if not taken care of they can lead to those frame issues (the E36 M3 has bracing to prevent that though).
I really haven't hard of issues with the 3.2 M3 motors, and my friends torture them. If you add a supercharger, the rear end gets annoyed.
It is very easy to swap instrument clusters, so if something seems like it has low mileage, I would at the very least run carfax. My guess is being in the biz, you know how to spot that.
Hmm, oh yeah one more thing...remember to enjoy being able to run with the last generation RX7s while being able to transport 4 passengers comfortably and getting better fuel economy.
I'm jealous, although I would be more so if it was a sedan.
I just wasn't sure what other idiosyncrasies there were on that body M3.
i think i need to bounce some problems around here. I actually drove the Alfa to work this morning after finally getting the chance to finish my rear spring install. It did not cure the problem I was hoping it would, which is a nice grinding/clunking sound that seems to come from under me everytime I start off from a dead stop. I believe the new springs, however, have made me notice another problem I never noticed before. Now the car seems to pull a bit to the right each time I take up a new gear. hmmmm... This isn't possibly a differential problem is it?? That is, if these 2 things are at all related.
Other issue is a strange whining/rattling/grinding noise that comes from ... well, i believe the tranny ... whenever there is no load on the drivetrain. So if, for instance, on level ground, I let off the gas a bit. Throwout bearing??
Oh, while I'm at it, anyone happen to know what size allen key fits the differential and tranny check plugs? The largest one I have is not big enough. And, to give a frame of reference, a 3/8" drive ratchet can also fit into this allen hole, but not snug enough to make me want to try turning it.
I'm getting really really tempted to drop this off at a specialty shop and just let them tell me everything that is wrong. I could have them change all the fluids, at the very least. When you only have a few hours every weekend to spare, it is pretty much impossible to do what you need to do on a project car.
and a couple of those hours this weekend were spent on the bimmer. It failed emissions, by the way.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry I didn't respond sooner, but electronics is not my strong point. I know enough about it to know that it can hurt you if you touch it in the wrong place, but that's about it.
If you do find out what the problem is though, let me know, in case my '85 ever does the same thing!
The only electronic/electrical problem I had with the truck was with the distributor and the ECU. You can still get the distributor from the dealer, but it's really expensive, like $700. I had a local repair shop replace mine back in 2004, something like 3 or 4 times! They just kept getting a run of crappy aftermarket/rebuilt units. I remember them telling me that they put one on, and it fried the first time they started the truck up!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Is that an '80s pop singer?
ya know, I wanna says its 4-wheel independent ... but now that I think about it, I'm not even sure. Seems to me its a solid axle housing back there. yes, yes, it is. I put the jack under the differential and it all goes up in the air together.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Dion_tube
Rare thing
Jaguar XJ-S: Well for $2,000 you can just drive it until it breaks...you know, for about a week or two....umm....I always have to ask: if something is an "easy fix" why didn't you fix it? Here's a safety pin, will that work?
And you could always sell the Chevy engine to somebody with a pickup truck.
But as Shifty mentions, it looks pretty messy, a labor of love if one is to restore it.
It's kind of a cute little oddity.
2500 dollar Explorer
Besides the wheel bearings what do I need to watch out for?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
To answer more seriously, stay away from any high mileage Explorer. 99,000 miles is DONE unless it's a throw-away price.
I give them 120k miles, personally.
So one with 73k still has a good amount of life for $2500, IMHO. Still needs to be inspected closely, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a buddy who has a mid/late 90's Explorer, but I have no idea how many miles he has on it. I'll have to ask him the next time I see him. I have another friend who also had one that had pretty high mileage...well up into the mid 150,000 range. He totaled it trying to drive it in 2wd mode in the snow.
Exploders use a 4.0 V-6, don't they? Is that derived from that infamous 3.8 "Essex", which tended to blow head gaskets, or is it a different design?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The 4.6 is supposed to be a good engine, but the only personal anecdote I have relating to them is a friend of mine who had a 1995 Grand Marquis GS. It had about 55,000 miles when he bought it summer of 1999, and about 175,000 when he traded it, summer of 2004, for a Crown Vic LX from CarMax. By that time, it was getting tired. The SES light was on, and it was blowing a bit of smoke, and tended to clatter on acceleration. But, it served its purpose.
The '04 Crown Vic had about 9800 miles on it when he bought it, and I think he's around 90,000 now.