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I'd put the 250C in the "cheap and cheerful" category of old cars---something you buy cheap, have fun with, do not invest in, and sell cheap to unload it.
Actually a far better and more practical car would be a early 1970s 220 gasser with manual transmission---by far the best version of this model.
oh... does this shift like my '91 190E did? Cause that was terribly annoying. I did cure it a bit by playing with the hidden vacuum adjustment dials on the side of the tranny. Does this have that option as well or no?
As for the A/C, a rebuilt compressor is $162. So that doesn't bother me all that much.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
For some time now I have gotten into a habit of shifting for myself a lot - better shift points for performance, and smoother...but it really wears on the linkage.
I'd much rather replace an A/C system than have to deal with bodywork, personally. Rotted A/C I can handle. Rotted rockers? Not so much.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I wonder if people who lust after those T-birds think they're going to get something sportier and more comfortable than what they really are, only to discover the thing is cramped inside and despite the small size and sporty looks, handles about as clumsy as anything else out there.
I have a feeling the ride isn't so hot either, with that short wheelbase, and the seat being so close to the back axle. Sure, you're going to get that in just about any sportscar of the era, but at least there, you got the handling.
So, just a theory here, but maybe people get all excited about the glamour and intrigue of the original T-bird, but when they actually buy it, they find out it's not all that, tire of it, and then sell it?
Personally, I like 'em, but I'd have to pass because they're so cramped inside. Just the thought of squeezing into one makes my knee flare up and my tendonitis twitch!
It was hot in the cabin, even with the flip out vents they put on the 56's. Way to young to drive, but my dad will tell you to this day that the handling stunk on that car. And he had a 65 and 66 Mustang along with the T-Bird to compare it to.
Pretty, pretty car though. Sort of a Canary Yellow and he had all of the chrome redone so it sparkled really nice.
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4xe Granite Crystal over Saddle
2024 Audi Q5 Premium Plus Daytona Gray over Beige
2017 BMW X1 Jet Black over Mocha
I guess it depends on the options---if you get p/s, automatic, AC, and if you take the time to insulate the firewall and put on good tires and shocks and somehow control body roll, so that you don't carve your doorhandles off in a turn---then it might be a very pleasant daytime cruiser, or as we call them with only a hint of condescension: "boulevardiers".
But you'd never have a problem finding 50 of them for sale anywhere, anytime, in your local metro area.
Also their value seems to stagnate, except for the rare models,which can be quite valuable (supercharged, etc).
As one critic said: "It's the car a corrupt senator buys for his chorus girl mistress in Las Vegas"
Ouch! :shades:
On the other hand, some guys did race them when they came out---not very successfully, but then in '55 the only serious sports cars were furrin'.
I didn't know that they ever existed before this:
There's also an E-Bird, with 2X4 carburetors.
Pretty!:
I test drove a new supercharged 1989 Cougar XR-7 and really liked it. It was all black/black trim with red leather interior, sun(moon?)roof, full power. After the test drive the salesman shook hands with me on a price but when we went inside to sign paper the new car sales manager rewrote the deal--up another $3000. I didn't like it that much but it was a great car and they can always ask whatever they want for it. I think Cougar only got the supercharged engine for '89 and '90.
One more funny thing about that day...Before going inside to get the deal "done" the salesman pointed at a flatbed truck loading a Merkur XR4Ti and said, "It's a brand new '88 and we can't give it away..." :shades:
It was fairly perfect, maybe the best W111 engine I have ever seen, everything done, owner probably had 35-40K into the restoration. It was really a sight. Funny thing though, his wife bought him the car and he had it restored just to do it - not a huge enthusiast, just had more money than he knew what to do with, and wanted to have a car fixed up. I asked him if it had dual circuit brakes, he had no idea. Also didn't know if it was a Euro car (very rare 4 speed, likely is). I'd love to have my car put into that condition, but it seemed funny that the owner didn't learn anything about the car.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
The coupe to have would be a 280SE with the 3.5 / V8, circa 1970. That's also called a W111, but a variant (E35?)
I found this a little tempting at first. Then I read up on the specs. Only about as quick as my GTI in a straight line and with far far less usable space.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
MONDIAL -- you may recall that to service the engine timing belt, etc., you have to pull it out (yes, the entire engine/transaxle assembly) every 30K or so. That's not cheap.
Check it out:
http://www.cs.unc.edu/~keller/cars/Repair.html
" Like all CV boot covers, they tear over time. And, unfortunately, I haven't found any of those simple split boots that fit. So, you are gong to have to drop the axle. It is a quite a job but it is in the manual. Make sure you have lots of shop rage because there is a lot of grease there."
I have a feeling you'll have all the 'rage' you need by the time your done doing that job!
From an old ad I dug up:
"Made exclusively for Pontiac by Knudsen Automotive, Inc., this is a 1986 Limited Edition Pontiac Tojan. This car is one of only 300 produced between 1985 and 1991."
So it's not exactly a "kit car"---more like a dream gone horribly wrong.
I am just in awe over that Pontiac. I mean, seriously, is there truly a level of blindness that still allows you to drive yet is bad enough that you think that looks like any kind of ferrari???
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Anyone want a 1970 Catalina 4 door sedan (I always thought it was more like a '68, but certainly not my specialty). Does run (I heard him start it up) but definitely not a restored motor! Body wise, looks to be original panels and paint, a bit beat up but little to no (that I noticed) rust on it. SO sound/beater maybe? Interior I did not get a close look at, but similar condition.
400CI engine I do know from the sign.
Overall, a well used car in essentially original condition, all for the princely sum of $800. Proving, I guess, how little interest there is in a FS 1970 4 door Pontiac!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If it were a 4D HT I might be more on the fence, but a 4D sedan--definitely, part it out IMO. It can live on in other vehicles!
I'd almost be tempted by this car, as I don't like the idea of anything that might still have some useful life left in it being sacrificed. But, at the same time, I'm trying to get out of the habit of rescuing those old mutts. If I ever do get another old car, I'm trying to hold out for something like a nice '61 or '62 Cadillac!
If this '70 was a really nice 4-door sedan, I'd argue against it getting parted out. But, if it's getting rough around the edges, no big loss in the overall scheme of things, I guess.
Plus, I've already owned a '69 Bonneville 4-door hardtop and still have a '67 Catalina convertible. I probably should go for a little more variety, in life!
On the subject of old mutts, I finally got this thing to move under its own power, after not messing with it for about 3 or 4 months...
The battery, which has always been a bit marginal, was totally dead, so I pulled the battery out of my 5th Ave, which is in dry-dock until I get around to messing with the power steering pump.
It was a little cranky getting started, and the back brakes are grabby from sitting for so long, I guess. Once warmed up, it would stall out every time I put it in gear unless I kept one foot on the gas and one on the brake. Today, I played around with the idle, and think I've fixed that problem.
I cleaned out the trunk a bit...found an ant nest in it! It doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere, but I kept it open for a few hours, just to let it air out.
Depending on how daring I feel, I might try driving it to work on Tuesday! In the past, it usually got me to work okay, but would then refuse to start for the trip home. The next morning I'd drive something else to work, and the NY'er would fire up just fine.
These days, I'm only 2.5 miles from work (although in the past I wasn't much further, at 3.5) So, if it leaves me stuck at work, it's not too much of a walk home. Might be good exercise, if nothing else!
You don't want to end up like the crazy woman down the street with 65 cats. :P
what's the difference, no center 'B" pillar?
I could drive past it tomorrow to find out I guess.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Also check out that nice-looking 1976 Cadillac Sedan DeVille in the background!
Yeah, no B-pillar is the most obvious cue of a hardtop versus a regular sedan. The hardtop also has no frames around the door windows, although there is still a thin chrome strip attached to the front of the rear door window, which serves as a seal between it and the front door window. The roofline of the hardtop is also about an inch or so lower than the sedan, but that's not readily obvious unless you see the two side by side. It's sort of a subtle detail that makes the hardtop appear longer and sleeker.
This always lead to an interesting dilemma when you wanted to get out of OD while descending a long steep hill.
The British offered a much slicker overdrive, electrically operated, called a Laycock, and all you did there was flick a small lever on the steering stalk. These could be fussy however, and if you forgot to take it out of OD and went into reverse, the results could be disastrous for the sprag gear inside.
The American version of OD in those days, typically for us, was simpler, cruder and much sturdier. The only weak link in the American system was the solenoid, which was outside the transmission and prone to getting wet, knocked off in a ditch, etc.
Are you sure the OD was engaged with a handle on the T-Bird, and not by releasing the accelerator, as with the other Ford cars? I don't know for sure because I never drove or rode in a 2-seater T-Bird. Maybe the handle was to permit OD to be engaged (by releasing the accelerator pedal)
http://forum.love-fords.org/content.php?117-1953-Ford-Overdrive
Perhaps the driver of the car you were in already had it pushed in when starting out, and in that case, yes, you just let off the gas. Overdrive must be engaged by the driver on a standard shift car, either manually or electronically. Modern automatics use computer speed sensors and solenoids to do this.
Also it makes no sense to try for first overdrive, since a '53 Ford would be screaming in first gear at 27 mph in order to engage overdrive.