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Infiniti G37 Lease Questions

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Comments

  • Hi zooch76. Unfortunately, I don't believe that there is a set amount that banks' money factors increase by from credit tier to credit tier. It varies from bank to bank and likely from model to model.

    Car_man
    Host
    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • ric14ric14 Posts: 4
    I purchased an FX35 in February, at that time, if you had a current Infiniti Lease, they were offering $2k loyalty. We were coming out of Cadillac lease, so did not qualify.
    Car Man, do you know if that is still an offering now?
    My husbands lease on his Cadillac STS is up, and since GMAC is still not offering leasing, we might be interested in leasing a G37 convertible.
    In addtion to the lease loyalty question;
    -are there lease rates available on the convertible?
    -lease residual & MF on 36 mos, 10k or 12k per yr.
    -buy down of MF rate using multiple security deposits
    if you have any of this info, would be greatly appreciated.
  • alcatrazt2alcatrazt2 Posts: 70
    Hello everyone,

    I'm looking into leasing my third Infiniti vehicle as the lease on my current 2006 G35 Sedan is coming to an end in October, 2009.

    I recently purchased a 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan/Journey/Premium/Tire & Wheel package and am paying $356 per month w/ $2800 down which included the first payment. What do you think about the following lease deal I got?

    A couple of days ago I received a letter about a special 'Vehicle Buy Back event.' The letter states that Glendale Infiniti is 'looking to acquire your [my] 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan and any other 2007 and older vehicles in your [my] household.' As a result, they would like for me to 'exchange your [my] 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan for a new 2009 Infiniti car.'

    What does this necessarily mean? Do I stop making payments until October, 2009 on the 2006 and get myself into a new one without any strings attached? Or will the remainder of what I have to pay off slap on to the price of the new one they're so willingly offering?

    Thanks in advance.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Posts: 750
    What does this necessarily mean?

    It's a way to get you into the dealership. I got those letters even on the car that I trade-in 2 years back.
  • nickr1nickr1 Posts: 51
    I have a simple question(s), why is almost every lease deal so different?

    Why are "special offers" (lease prices) on Infiniti dealer sites different than special offers on Infiniti's site? Why is there no standardization?

    Why does everyone always ask the same question: "is this a good deal?" Doesn't even one person unequivocally know what a good lease price is?

    Does this confusion, or complexity, put the dealer at a great advantage? In other words, are dealers happy no one knows what a good lease deal is?

    Isn't the total price you pay the dealer, down payment plus total monthly payments the only number that really matters? How does any other number or percentage or MF or residual or even total cost of the car help anyone understand anything if you have no intention of buying the car when the lease ends? Add your total down payment to 39 months of payments, that's it, it doesn't need to be more complicated than that, right? So why does it sound soooo complicated when you read this forum.

    Isn't it true that you can be quoted a low msrp and low invoice but still be snaked by a high lease payment? If so, then doesn't that mean the price of the car is often or sometimes used as a manipulation to get the down and the monthly higher? In other words, the quoted price almost doesn't matter and isn't the guiding force of your total lease payments, it's your total paid to the dealer that matters.

    I like the 09 G37x coupe but for the life of me I can't figure out the lease price even after reading all these posts. I also don't understand why the Nav is so incredibly expensive, aren't great portable Nav's around $200? Sorry, I guess I have sticker shock on that one, someday soon though I bet car dealers will start offering Navs at half the price of what it is now, you know, as an incentive to buy their brand. I mean really, how can just a Nav cost nearly 20% of the entire 39 month lease cost?

    Anyway, I see dealers offering on their websites a 2009 G37x coupe for $399 a month for 39 months and 10,000 miles but they don't say the price, or how it's equipped or what the down payment is, so really, I know it's not going to be just $399 a month. I know I can ask a dealer, it's just that I want to go in with a firm idea first. It can be embarrassing talking to a dealer on the lot about a lease, I had one actually say to me, we can get your monthly lower, you just have to make a bigger down payment upfront, as if that was saving me money, it was not an Infiniti dealer.

    So, I guess on a simple level, has anyone leased a 2009 G37x coupe with Nav, and if so what was your down payment, your monthly and your miles? Thanks if you know. Sorry for the meandering, I actually am trying to simplify the process, you know, sort of like Obama and the credit card nonsense.
  • nickr1nickr1 Posts: 51
    Hi, thanks for the info but I'm not clear on your deal. You said:

    "The only money I put down was a $500 loyalty credit from Infiniti"

    Does that mean all other charges including tax was folded into your monthly payments? Then you wrote:

    " I put the $595 bank fee, $45 documentation fee and 8.625% sales tax (suffolk county NY) in the payment." Do you mean in the monthly payments? Then you wrote:

    "My payment was $539.39 including tax" do you mean monthly payment for 39 months? If so, how many miles, 10,000? Then you wrote:

    "I only paid like $680 total out the door." But you had said it was $500 loyalty payment, so was it 500 or 680, or was it both added together?

    It sounds like you are saying:
    Virtually loaded G37xS sedan
    39 months
    10,000 miles?
    Down payment total $500
    Monthly payment $539.39

    Please correct me if I am wrong.

    If this is correct, then your total cost for leasing for 39 months is $21,536.21

    I would be interested in hearing if anyone else leased the same spec and got a different total. Thanks.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    I won't even try to address most of your questions on variances in deals (short answer: supply and demand in different geographic and economic conditions), but regarding the nav...

    This is something that bugs me as well with manufacturers. Maybe eight years ago, $2k for a nav system was fairly priced, but nowadays, when you see a "base" model already having a 7-inch LCD screen used for radio displays, offering a $2k GPS option, there's clearly a healthy profit margin in there.

    That said, at least with the G37, you get not only a GPS, but a very good one by all accounts, including lane guidance and 3-d building graphics, XM traffic integration, a rearview camera monitor for backing up, voice recognition for common functions, and the 9GB "music box" for storing thousands of songs. So, yes, they're still making a profit on it, but I don't think the $2k price tag is so egregious for what you're getting.
  • sjaievesjaieve Posts: 252
    These were priced the same as 3 yr leases not too long ago, is this trend dead? I need to upgrade my 08 to the G37 but with the Direct injection around the corner I dont was to tie myself in for 3 years.
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    nickr1, sorry for the confusion. Let me clear things up.

    When I said "the only money I put down was the $500 loyalty credit from Infiniti" that means I didn't pay any other down payments. So yes, all the other charges (except the DMV fees), the $595 bank fee, 8.625% sales tax and $45 doc fee were folded into my monthly payment. So my monthly payment was $539.39 for 39 months on a 10K miles per year lease. The April 2009 residual percentage on a 39 month 10K miles per year lease was 58%.

    When I say I paid $680 out the door, that was my first payment of $539.39 plus the DMV fees. The $500 loyalty credit is worked into the lease calculation. They don't give you a $500 check for the loyalty credit to use as you wish. You must apply it to the new lease so they include the $500 loyalty credit in the lease calculation. So on paper it looks like I paid $1180 (first payment + DMV fees + an additional $500 down payment) but I only paid $680 out of my pocket because of the $500 loyalty credit. So like I said the $500 loyalty credit was used as a cap cost reduction.

    Yes, you're correct, my total cost for leasing for 39 months is $21,536.21 if you count the $500 loyalty credit as part of the cost. I'm only paying $21,036.21 out my pocket.

    It looks like people should probably get slightly better monthly payments for leases this month because the loyalty credit was increased to $1000. On a 39 month 10k miles per year lease, I believe the residuals dropped by 1% to 57% and the money factor is lower as well which offsets the lower residual so once you factor in the increase in loyalty credit, I think the monthly payment will be lower.
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    nickr1, let me try to answer some of questions.

    Why is almost every lease deal so different?
    For several reasons. First the monthly payment in the lease depends on the MSRP of the car, negotiated price, money factor and residual percentage. When car dealers advertise leases, you always have to pay taxes and fees up front and some sort of down payment to bring the payment down to the nice round number they advertise. IMHO, that's how dealers take advantage of consumers. I always tell my friends, I can lease a $100K Mercedes for $300/month with a big enough down payment. The only way to figure out if you got a good deal or not is to get the negotiated price (i.e. cap cost) used in the lease calulation. If you read the edmunds.com leasing guide, it tells you to negotiate the selling price of the car (i.e. cap cost) because that's the only number you can change in the lease calulation. The MSRP, term (length of the lease), money factor and residual percentage are fixed numbers. Of course the money factor is determined by your credit score but you or the dealer can't do anything to change it.

    Why are "special offers" (lease prices) on Infiniti dealer sites different than special offers on Infiniti's site? Why is there no standardization?
    Again, this is based on how much of a discount each dealer is willing to give on a particular car. Many of these special offers apply to a specific car they have in stock or a car equipped a certain options. Also, individual dealers can make their own deals with banks to lease cars with different leasing terms from Infiniti Financial Services. If a dealer gets a bank to do the lease instead of Infiniti Financial Services, they can usually use the cash incentives that Infiniti was only offering on purchases such as the $2K marketing support cash to dealer on the G37 sedan/coupe right now. When you lease through a bank instead of IFS, the bank is buying the car and leasing it to you so any incentives that Infiniti is offering on purchases could be passed onto you by the dealer. Depending on the residual percentage and money factor offered by the bank, that could make it cheaper to lease through a bank but banks will be much more strict about the condition of the car at the end of the lease than IFS so you might have to pay for any minor scratches to the car that IFS would forgive.

    Why does everyone always ask the same question: "is this a good deal?" Doesn't even one person unequivocally know what a good lease price is?
    I think this is because people don't want to take the time to do the research and calculate the lease payment themselves. The real simple way to find out if you got a good deal or not is to know the selling price (i.e. cap cost) used in the lease calculation. You can't simply use monthly payment as a determination because obviously the more money you put down, the lower the monthly payment.

    Does this confusion, or complexity, put the dealer at a great advantage? In other words, are dealers happy no one knows what a good lease deal is?
    Yes, most people don't take the time to educate themselves or understand how lease calculations work so I think dealers are happy that people can't tell what a good lease deal is. Ads that say $299/month or $399/month to lease a certain vehicle sound good until you look at how much money you have to put down. Like I said, you can make your monthly payment as low as you want with enough of a down payment.

    Isn't the total price you pay the dealer, down payment plus total monthly payments the only number that really matters? How does any other number or percentage or MF or residual or even total cost of the car help anyone understand anything if you have no intention of buying the car when the lease ends? Add your total down payment to 39 months of payments, that's it, it doesn't need to be more complicated than that, right? So why does it sound soooo complicated when you read this forum.
    No, because your total cost will always be lower the more money you put down because you're financing less money in the lease so you're paying less interest over the term of the lease with a larger down payment. It all depends on how much money you want to put into the lease up front. The cheapest way to lease would be to pay all the money up front and not borrow anything but that's very risky and I'll explain why. When you're leasing, the leasing company owns the car, not you. So if the car it totalled or stolen, your insurance company pays off the amount owned on the car to the leasing company (i.e. IFS or bank), not you. If you pay the taxes up front, you don't get that money back either. That's why I pay as little money up front as possible including folding the taxes into the lease because I don't want to risk losing that money. Obviously I'll be paying more interest over the term of the lease which will make my total cost higher but I don't risk losing my money if my car is totalled or stolen. I can offset that by taking the money that I didn't put into the car and putting it in a CD or money money account or whatever and earn some interest income back. Plus I have access to my cash if I ever need it in an emergency.

    Isn't it true that you can be quoted a low msrp and low invoice but still be snaked by a high lease payment? If so, then doesn't that mean the price of the car is often or sometimes used as a manipulation to get the down and the monthly higher? In other words, the quoted price almost doesn't matter and isn't the guiding force of your total lease payments, it's your total paid to the dealer that matters.
    That's completely wrong. The money factor and residual percentage are set by the bank or leasing company based on the term (i.e. 24 or 36 or 39 or 48 months). Those are fixed. The MSRP of the car is also fixed because that is printed on the window sticker. The only number in the lease calculation that can change is the negotiated price (i.e. sale price/cap cost) of the car. Sometimes payments are higher because dealers add it high fees like $300 in documentation fees or other things like glass protection into the amount you're financing. Again, the total amount paid to the dealer will be lowest if you don't borrow anything because you'll be paying no interest so you can't use that to evaluate a lease deal. Then the best way to lease would be to pay everything up front. Again, that's putting your money at risk.
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    My response continued, since it got cut off.

    I like the 09 G37x coupe but for the life of me I can't figure out the lease price even after reading all these posts. I also don't understand why the Nav is so incredibly expensive, aren't great portable Nav's around $200? Sorry, I guess I have sticker shock on that one, someday soon though I bet car dealers will start offering Navs at half the price of what it is now, you know, as an incentive to buy their brand. I mean really, how can just a Nav cost nearly 20% of the entire 39 month lease cost?
    20% of the entire 39 month lease cost for a nav option doesn't sound right. When you're leasing, you're essentially paying for the depreciation of the car. Let's say the residual percentage on your lease is 57%, then you'll be paying 43% of the cost of any options you add in the lease (assuming that you're getting the same percentage discount off MSRP on a car without navigation as a car with navigation). So you should be financing 43% of the $2150 navigation option in the lease which is about $925. That shouldn't add 20% to the cost of the lease. I'm simplifying things in the lease calculation but if you were to run the numbers for a car with and without navigation (assuming you get the same percentage discount off of MSRP), it shouldn't be that much money even with the extra interest that you'll be paying for the extra cost.
  • nickr1nickr1 Posts: 51
    Thanks Sam, that was very helpful. I recently got a lease quote from a friendly, local dealer for a 2009 G37x coupe with premium package and Nav, nothing else. Here it is:

    39 months
    10,000 miles a year
    msrp: $44,826
    Inv: $41,160
    price: $42,185 (price dealer offered)
    Down: $2,900 includes DMV, doc fees, sales tax, bank fee, first month fee
    Monthly: $566

    total paid to dealer over life of lease: $24,974

    This deal is almost exactly what Edmunds says it is, and what others are paying. I have not yet tried to negotiate, but when I do where and how do you think I can make some reductions in price? Thanks.
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    Essentially the dealer offered you the car at $1025 over invoice ($42,185 selling price - $41,160 invoice price) and you should be able to do better than that. I would say the selling price should be at most $500 over invoice and if their documentation fee is $200 or $300 like some dealers I spoke to in NY and NJ, then I would definitely try to get the selling price less than $500 over invoice. Those documentation fees really annoy me because all they do is pad the dealer profit. Lucky for me that NY has laws limited documentation fees to $45 or something like that.

    I would also ask to see the breakdown of the lease calculation from their system because your monthly payment seems a little high considering you're paying the taxes and bank fee up front. You should be able to plug the numbers in the edmunds.com lease calculator and come up with the same monthly payment. If you live in NY, the way tax is calculated on a lease is different from other states. NY state requires the taxes up front so the tax in the lease payment is calculated a little differently when you include the tax in the monthly payment so the edmunds.com lease payment calculator will come up with a slightly different monthly payment amount.
  • bashinbashin Posts: 26
    I am trying to get a 39 month lease on the G37X at 12,000 miles/year. I want the premium, tech, and navi packages. I am not putting anything down aside from first month's payment. What is my expected price? I am in the DC area. Am I going to come closer to $500 per month, as opposed to $600? Also, is it worth waiting until next month for a better price?

    Thanks!

    This forum never fails...
  • nickr1nickr1 Posts: 51
    Thanks, and you hit on exactly what I don't understand about lease prices, that is, how does he figure my monthly payment? The way it should work is that you should be given a total lease price for the car for 39 months, then you decide how much to pay up front and how much to pay monthly to get that total. But in his case, he tells what the up front costs are and calls them "minimum down" but he doesn't explain why it's $566 a month, or why it might be $500, or $600, how am I supposed to know how he is calculating this, how do I know his profit is not hidden in my monthly payment?
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    nickr1,

    You can ask the dealer to show you the screen or a printout from the Infiniti system showing the lease calculation. If it's not obvious what each number represents, he should be able to explain each number on the printout. Again, the total lease price (as you called it) will fluctuate depending on how much you put down because the more you put down the less you're borrowing and therefore the less interest you'll pay. The only way to negotiate a lease is based on the selling price of the car (i.e. the capitalized cost of the car going into the lease calculation). You need to get that total lease price or total lease cost out of your head because that's not the way you should be evaluating your lease deal.

    Think of it this way. Let's say you were going to buy a car for $40K. If you put down $10K and take out a $30K loan, you'll pay more interest than if you put down $15K and take out a $25K loan because the more you borrow, the more interest you'll pay. The same rule applies to leasing so obviously the total amount you spend on the car will be higher if you borrow more money.

    The dealer should also disclose all the costs to you in detail and then you should be able to calculate the same lease payment as him. If you don't want to get ripped off you need to take the time and understand how leases are calculated.

    Here's a link to Edmunds.com lease calculator.
    http://www.edmunds.com/apps/calc/CalculatorController?pmtcalAction=lease_calc

    I actually created my own lease calculator Excel spreadsheet and put it in my Blackberry so I could verify the monthly payment that each dealer was telling me based on the figures they told me were going into the lease calculation. You only need 7 figures to calculate a lease - MSPR of the car, negotiated price (i.e. cap cost), additional costs in the lease (i.e. fees, taxes, etc), down payment amount (i.e. cap cost reduction), term (length of the lease), money factor and residual percentage. You can only influence the negotiated price and you determine the down payment. The rest of those numbers cannot be changed.

    You should read Edmunds.com articles on leasing at the following link.
    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/index.html

    You should especially read this article on how to spot a good lease deal.
    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/102826/article.html
  • sam_ksam_k Posts: 117
    Just realized a mistake in the post that this reply is for. The doc fee was between $200 and $300 at some dealers in NJ and CT, not NY.
  • richardnvarichardnva Richmond, VirginiaPosts: 89
    Hi Car man,
    I know it's late in the month, but can you confirm the money factor and residuals for a G37 Sedan with 10,000 and 12,000 miles? Also, is there any difference in the lease terms between the two-wheel and all-wheel (x) models? I noticed that you stated that there's a difference between coupes and sedans, was wondering if the same applied to the base 2-wheel vs. 4-wheel drive models. Thanks!
  • brewbockbrewbock Posts: 8
    This is the week I start looking to lease a G37x AWD with navigation. This forum helped me immensely when I leased my Acura MDX and it's helpful now. I have already e-mailed several dealerships and they have started responding like crazy. I will post numbers, once they start coming in.Hopefully I can return the favor and get someone else a good deal, like I got last time. Here's to not getting ripped off! lol
  • bashinbashin Posts: 26
    Brewbock: are you negotiating any other cars? I am in the same market and would be interested to share information. Send me an email at bashin (at) gmail.com
  • tlhughes30tlhughes30 Posts: 3
    Dealer in Oklahoma has agreed to $27,500 (before TTL) on 08 Journey Sedan (G35). $2,000 higher on premium equipped version.

    Deal ? Where does one located a valid invoice price on the now year-old 08s? And can anyone refresh as to any dealer incentives on the 08s. Thanks in advance.
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    The invoice price doesn't budge as time progresses, but the market value of the car certainly does. You should, therefore, compare it to used car values because, as far as the market is concerned, it is a used car. Granted, one with virtually no miles and a new-car warranty, but not a current model year. (That said, $27.5k is probably a good deal, but be sure to price it out through Edmunds)
  • richardnvarichardnva Richmond, VirginiaPosts: 89
    Brewbock,
    I'm in the same place as you. I was just quoted $37,770 for a G37x with:
    Navigation
    Premium
    Wood
    Splash guards
    Trunk matts
    cargo net
    The price includes the $2000 incentive, but no taxes, tags, etc.
    Edmunds shows the invoice on this at $38509 and TMV at $39,000.
    What are you getting quoted?
  • brewbockbrewbock Posts: 8
    The numbers I'm getting right now from the dealerships are primarily through e-mail. I'm basically getting a monthly payment, down payment, but not much more than that. I have requested ALL the pertinent leasing numbers, but they seem hesitant to send them (or they're just ignoring my request). I plan on test driving next week and will post numbers as I get them.

    Brew
  • kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Posts: 1,051
    I have found that there are a lot of old school salesmen on the "Internet desks" at dealerships. They hate doing business via email, and only want to get you on the phone or in the dealership where they can work their magic. Its really a self fulfilling prophecy for them, they hate doing business via email, so they do a crappy job on it. They then turn around and say that they never make any sales via the Internet so why bother to do a good job at it.

    You just need to tell them that if they don't give you all of the information you have asked for you are crossing them off your list. Also let them know you are ready to buy, not just window shopping. I wouldn't mention the test drive at this part, since that means a hesitancy to buy a G.
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
  • richardnvarichardnva Richmond, VirginiaPosts: 89
    a question about getting the best deal???
    Everything I read states that you should negotiate the price of the car, BEFORE negotiating the lease contract. I've been working on getting the best price on the car without any incentives since many of the incentives are contingent on using their financing or aren't eligible if you lease. I'm not even mentioning that I want to lease yet, just focusing on the best bottom line price. Is this the right approach? I'm fearful that once we agree on a price and I then tell them that I want to lease that they'll back out and want to renegotiate the sales price. I have all of the Infiniti leasing info for May, so I know what my monthly payment will be based on the price I'm negotiating. Any tips on this approach? Should I let them know ahead of time that I'm going to lease?
  • kingpcgeekkingpcgeek Posts: 1,051
    There is nothing wrong with telling them you are leasing. In the case of the G you really need to since the dealer cash is not available with a lease.

    This is the sample email I have used in the past:

    I am looking for a G35 Sedan with premium package. If you could please provide all of the following information it would be greatly appreciated. Please do not respond with a "give me a call so we can discuss this" email, nor an email with a monthly payment only.

    MSRP
    Selling price
    Dealer doc fees
    Dealer Add ons
    Residual for 36 months/12,000 miles
    Money factor for 36 months/12,000 miles
    Registration/Plates
    2005 G35 Sedan
    2007 G35 Sedan
    2008 G37 Sedan
    2010 G37 Coupe
    2012 G37 Sedan
    2014 Q50 RWD

    2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
    2018 QX60 RWD
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    I've seen that same advice, and think it might be more applicable when there aren't any current lease deals the manufacturing is promoting. The past couple of cars I've leased (both Hondas during lease specials), I simply asked for the best lease deal they could offer (comparing apples to apples with respect to miles/year, money out-the-door, etc.), and then negotiating the same way you would a bottom line.

    I think it's just too confusing with all the variables involved in a lease; you may end up getting a great "deal" on the sales price, but they may then try to squeeze on the residual, the money factor, etc.
  • The problem with leasing, is that once you let them know you're leasing only, it gets much more difficult to bring down the sale price of the car. They prefer to hit the other numbers first.

    So, in the G's case, say that you're financing the car either through the current 0.9 APR or private financing. Ask them price the car as if you were going 0.9 APR and would take the $2000 CASH off if going private financing. Get preapproved from a local CU for a 36 and 60 month.

    So...go online query armed with the those items and haggle for best pricing, and determine lease/finance/cash afterwards. Don't work backwards on the numbers....they are the professionals on the flip...you aren't.

    Only after you are comfortable with the purchase price, go over the financing options. Ask about the leasing opportunities and costs. Key items MF (Money Factor) x24 = APR roughly. Last offer last month was .0022 for my G37 on 36month at 12k/yr. Assume 12k on the initial offer.

    No Capital Cost Reduction! Don't do that. If they require a cap reduction, make them reduce the MF.

    The last key thing is: Credit Score. This is all based on the premise that your credit score is >720 these days to get the best financing deals. If not...best to have the CU back you up in the first place and go Cash deal with long financing.
  • richardnvarichardnva Richmond, VirginiaPosts: 89
    I know some dealers are closed on Sundays so this might not matter to some of you, but I was just quoted the following:
    G37x, with Navigation, Premium, and wood
    MSRP $41775
    Sale price $38,950
    36 month lease @12,000 miles/year
    $1000 down
    $522 a month

    Anyone quoted a better offer?
    Thanks,
    Richard
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