Berth Smith is probably worst (or second worst, they are fighting for that position with Kuhn)
I have to say, once we got through with the nonsense, the rest went pretty well. They sent what looks like an offer to purchase, though it is different from any purchase offer I have ever seen, with a price plus extras and it all looks to be in order.
I read customer reviews for Khun and Lockey and Khun did seem worse and Lockey was slightly better. Boast is in Bradenton but it is a difficult to get there, a long drive through lots of traffic.
It is pretty sad when none of the dealers gets a lot of praise. All I can say is I got a fair price, so I am satisfied so far, we'll see how the rest goes. Since we are only going to do about 3000 miles a year on this car I don't expect to spend too much time in their shop. The dealer in Brandonis probably the easiest to get to, and the salesman and owner seemed very nice, but the reviews were the worst - so I just didn't want to go there.
One thing is, few people give great reviews, most people only write a review when they have a complaint.
There are two sides to the story and I think we don't know the whole story. You don't hear about engines going at 37K, unless it is after a JMonroe oil change.
Just joking JM........
I know you’re joking but you are distorting the facts. The XG350 didn’t blow up until the dealer did the LAST oil change about a month before the car blew up. That was the 15 th oil change that car had in approximately 43K miles. I did 13 of the previous 14 oil changes myself. The only other oil change that was not done by me was done by a tire shop that I used to buy from and I had a valid receipt showing when that oil change was done (May 2010, I think).
If you remember, the problem arose when the dealer questioned one of my entries on my oil log sheet. That was the technicality that was used to deny warranty work.
FWIW, the dealer did not use the prescribed 10W30 oil they used 5W20, at least that is what the windshield sticker said. Now, was that the cause of the engine blowup, who knows but my gut feeling is it was not but I’ve been wrong before.
I don’t know what I’d give to know for sure if the 5W20 oil was the cause of the engine failure a month later with only 500 miles put on the car.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Basically boils down to personal experience with a person. I'm sure no dealer is really immune to nonsense and bad reviews. It is inherent to their business. There will always be somebody unhappy with the price or service and those are more likely to write a review.
Just about every car I've owned since 2006 recommends 10,000 mile intervals between oil changes (100% synthetic of course). I've asked mechanics about waiting 10,000 miles (1 oil change per year based on my driving) between oil changes and they all responded that the new synthetics protect the engine adequately for about 10,000-12,000 miles. I am from the old school where I change my oil, even synthetic, every 5,000 miles.
What is your take on oil changes? Is 10,000 miles acceptable or should it be changed more frequently and under what conditions?
I am from the old school where I change my oil, even synthetic, every 5,000 miles.
What is your take on oil changes? Is 10,000 miles acceptable or should it be changed more frequently and under what conditions?
If you want my opinion, I say 5000 miles for synthetic is overkill unless the manufacture says otherwise. I'm pretty conservative myself but I'd go 7500/8000 miles with synthetic, again, unless the manufacture says otherwise.
Under what conditions? The way a normal person would drive and I'd say the regulars here are normal, at least in that respect. :surprise:
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Well, I did get out driving today and for a while had the top down. Would have kept it down but the sun was strong and one of the things I have to do now is not get burned.
I'm beginning to think I may pull through this.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
I don’t know what I’d give to know for sure if the 5W20 oil was the cause of the engine failure a month later with only 500 miles put on the car.
Just an uneducated guess, but I don't think the 5W20 oil or even if you missed an oil change which I know you didn't, caused the engine to blow.
People miss oil changes and don't do that kind of damage. It had to be an engine failure or malfunction, or the oil leaked out somewhere, or maybe they didn't even fill the car up, or overfilled it which is just as bad.
Your situation is just so wierd, a person who goes above and beyond to do the right thing then gets caught up in beauracratic red tape and gets blamed for making a minor recording error. I know, it just seemed appropriate to tie it in with the poor guy and his Audi.
Basically boils down to personal experience with a person
We will see how it goes. They seem to have stopped playing games and have been very nice to me. If this all goes without a hitch they may even get a good report from me. It is odd, the bill of sale just lists the price and extras with a total. It doesn't say what color or interior color. I have sent that to them, they may have it from earlier emails, but it isn't on the bill of sale.
We'll see how it goes, the initial problems were pretty bad, but hopefully the rest will go fine.
I am from the old school where I change my oil, even synthetic, every 5,000 miles
Why use synthetic if you change it every 5000 miles. The 535 goes 15K miles between oil changes and BMW won't do them earlier. If it is needed before that the car probably calculates that. If you change oil more often then needed you are wasting your money and natural recourses.
Maybe you feel better, like giving a kid candy to spoil them, but I think you are over doing it. I'll go the limit, greater minds than mine study this stuff and if the car maker figures out how long the oil will last I will go along with that.
They study this stuff and spend big bucks to figure it all out. I wouldn't use the old guidlines we use to use which made sense then, you have to trust the new technology at some points. Changing oil every 5000 miles is like looking back to make sure nothing is behind you when backing up, when you can use the rear view camera.
BTW, the Audi has a lane change flasher. If you signal a lane change and a car is in your blindspot a light on the mirrow flickers. I find it incredible the things they are thinking of. So, I would drive to the limit as far as oil changes, or pretty close to it (within 1000 or 2000 miles at least).
When I had my 535i's, oil changes were every 15,000 miles or every year, whichever came first. BMW dealer changed my oil as part of the maintenance as you also have, but they insisted that the oil be changed at least once a year, no matter how little mileage the car had been driven. I guess they changed the oil requirements since 2008.
I use synthetic because it is required. Lexus pays for the first tire rotation at 5000 miles and then pays for the first oil change at 10,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. My Mercedes had an interval of 10,000 miles also for oil changes, but they also had a stipulation that the oil had to be changed at least once a year, no matter hoe little the car is driven.
5W30 oil and the engine problem (jmonroe)
I doubt very much that an engine would blow because 5W30 was used instead of 10w30 or even 20W30 oil. There had to have been a defect in a piston or valve to have an engine blow after only being driven 500 miles after an oil change. Definitely an engine defect.
Consensus seems to be to change synthetic oil as prescribed by the manufacturer (10,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first)!
So I will change oil only when recommended by the manufacturer.
Thanks for all your input - it helped me change my old dogie ideas about oil changes!
It had to be an engine failure or malfunction, or the oil leaked out somewhere, or maybe they didn't even fill the car up, or overfilled it which is just as bad.
I'd be willing to bet that it was just a fluke and the engine just had a random failure. I'm sure Hyundai knew it but didn't want to fix it because, with the technicality, they didn't think they had to.
As for over filling or under filling; since it's my car I do checks of other peoples work when someone other than me touches my car. When Mrs. j came home from the dealer after they did the oil change she left the car in the driveway because she knew I'd be checking the oil when I got home. The oil level was just a hair over the full mark (not even 8 or 10 oz, if I had to guess) and I attribute that to the bulk fill that they do from a hose.
After Mrs. j called to tell me that she had a problem (remember, at first she thought she hit something) I met her at the gas station right where she had the problem before the tow truck got there. I'd say she didn't move the car more than 150 after the rod went through the block. I could see a small trail of oil from the road to where she parked it after getting it off the road. I checked the oil level 3 times before the tow truck got there. The oil level was not down more than a pint. So even then it had plenty of oil. It just made a LOT of noise when I stated it up one time.
I know the importance of oil changes and it's ironic that something like this happened to me. My fellow workers said, "you, of all people, had something like this happen, so I know it can happen to me". That didn't make me feel any better but I know damn well it had nothing to do with me doing the oil changes.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
What is your take on oil changes? Is 10,000 miles acceptable or should it be changed more frequently and under what conditions?
On my BMWs and Mazda I have the used oil analyzed in order to determine the appropriate oil change interval(OCI). Here's what I have learned:
The direct injected and turbocharged Mazda engine is notoriously hard on oil, yet Mobil 1 5W-30 is good for at least 7,500 miles- but I wouldn't want to run it much longer than that. Here is what Blackstone Labs said about my latest 7,500 mile sample:
Your Speed3 has crossed the 100,000-mile point and it's still wearing like a champ. In fact, this is some of the lowest wear we've seen from your engine recently and you didn't have to shorten your oil run to get it. Sometimes we see a little fuel in the oil with this engine, but even that really hasn't been an issue. The trace amount here isn't anything harmful and is probably just from taking the sample cold or just driving around town. The TBN was 1.9, which is getting low, but there's still some active additive here. Looking good at 107,152 miles
The X3's M54 motor totally depletes the additive package by 10,000 miles. No way would I run a 15,000 mile OCI. I've tried oil that meets BMW's LL-01 spec and I've also run heavy-duty synthetics designed for turbo diesel commercial engines- same result. Blackstone's latest comment at 132,000 miles(Using 5W-40 Rotella T6):
Universal averages for BMW's M54 I-6 are based on about 6,400 miles on the oil. You ran this oil 8,352 miles, and wear read at or below average across the board. That's the best indication we know of that an engine is in good mechanical shape internally.
Last of all, my 1995 318ti track rat. I change it when the car tells me to- at @8,000 miles. It's funny how BMW OCIs doubled at just about the same time BMW started paying for maintenance. Here's Blackstone again, the oil used was Mobil 1 0W-40:
Your BMW's engine appears to be doing quite well at 125,244 miles. Our universal averages show normal wear for the M42 4-cylinder after 3,800 miles of oil use. You ran this 0W/40 oil well past that mark(8,242 miles), so it was nice to see all metals reading close to or below average. They were also in balance to one another and that shows normally wearing parts and no mechanical problems brewing. The oil's TBN was 5.7, meaning there was lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 means it is too low. Air and oil filtration (see silicon/insolubles) were normal.
Bottom line: I think a 10,000 mile OCI is fine if you use a quality synthetic, but I wouldn't exceed that mileage without having the oil analyzed.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I like Hyundais, I think they represent very good value on the market and honestly I like the Elantras better than the Civics. Just more bang for the buck.
I personally drive a BMW anyways, not a Hyundai, and probably wouldn't trade it for anything (really fell in love with the way it drives, nothing really compares....that I found yet :shades: ) but that's personal preference. If I were personally shopping for a new car, Hyundai would be on top of my list.
insisted that the oil be changed at least once a year, no matter how little mileage the car had been driven.
Oh yes, I forgot to mention that. Oil, even synthetic gets degraded over time, maybe even more when not being used, so it should definitely be changed once a year.
That means the Passat will probably get an oil change once a year at about 2500 miles!!!!!!! I hear synthetic oil changes can cost about $140.
On the Audi they will do that and warranty any problems for 4 years for $750. The sales manager said it's a good deal, with the cost of parts etc that could easily cost double, but they want you to come back to the dealer for work on the car. So, that is one warranty we will do. Audi is also 10000 miles.
Going for 10000 miles before oil change will be fine.
It's funny how BMW OCIs doubled at just about the same time BMW started paying for maintenance.
I think that is just a coincidence and that is only a personal opinion. BMW will gladly sell you an extended warranty and I don't think they want the engines breaking down because the oil wasn't changed enough.
I don't think they come up with a number like 15K miles to save themselves some money and risk engines failing. Most people don't buy a BMW because it can go that far between oil changes. The changes in engines and in the oil itself allow the car to go 15000 between oil changes.
The oil's TBN was 5.7, meaning there was lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 means it is too low.
Wouldn't that mean you could have gone a lot further with the oil you had?
It seems your cars may be driven harder than average, I don't know for sure, so you may want to get your oil changed more often than manufacturer recommends, but for the average person, it is probably fine to go the limit.
I personally drive a BMW anyways, not a Hyundai, and probably wouldn't trade it for anything
How about a good sales story....you must have something after all this time.
Our Audi salesman, who is the best salesman I have ever dealt with, said he loves selling Audis and that is why he works there. He said if he was to switch brands he would want to sell Hyundais....that would be the most fun and he likes to sell cars he really believes in.
I think like you, he wouldn't necessarily buy one, but he likes to sell cars that people will enjoy and that give real value for the buyer.
On my '06 Saturn ION, I usually go about 7-8K between changes. The car is equipped with an oil life monitor, plus I get monthly reports from OnStar. The last few changes were with a semi-synthetic, but on my most recent oil change last week I switched to a 'high mileage' blend.
The wife's 2010 Mazda CX-7, however, gets full synthetic every 5000 miles. This is the same engine as in RB's Speed3, but there are known issues with failures so I'm having all work done at the dealer. BTW, I'm charged around $50 for a full synthetic oil change.
My daughter's 2010 MINI goes in once a year for an oil change .. since she doesn't drive that much, it's based on time more than mileage (we've had the car 28 months and it's got about 16K on it).
The wife's 2010 Mazda CX-7, however, gets full synthetic every 5000 miles.
IMHO, your oil change times make sense. I was curious to know the recommended interval for the mini...probably 10K. But doing it once a year if it is driven less than that would be wise.
On the Mazda, since there are issues 5K miles is probably prudent, especially since the oil change costs just $50.
I haven't looked it up but I would think, if the oil companies could sell you more oil they would, and they would be the first to recommend having your oil changed sooner than the manufacturer.
Here is some good non partial information about the frequency of changing your oil; When to Change Your Oil
One thing I don't think was mentioned was the long lineups, and the pat down or scanners they use to search and accost innocent victims. Some time ago I got this TSA report for the month of January. Unfortunately, I had to remove some of the things the TSA found (this is just for fun).
January Statistics On Airport Screening From The Department Of Homeland Security:
Current BMWs have condition-based schedule, where the car tells you when to change oil and other major fluids. Can't imagine they'd on purpose program it to be wrong just to save a few dollars on maintenance schedule.
BTW, mine so far shows me change at 16K. I just crossed 12K and the programs says 4K remaining - the countdown was every 1000 miles (12000, 11000, etc.) up to 5000 remaining, now it is every 100 miles (4900, 4800, etc.). Kind of validates my feelings my previous cars did not need to go through "severe" schedules due to driving conditions (my commuting is majority highway at speeds 60-70 mph and about 20% city - plus city/errands on weekends and occasional longer trips).
There's a little cottage airline at what was, at one time, going to be Cincinnati Airport (kyfdx would know this as Lunken Field). While not far reaching, any time I need to get to NYC or Chicago in a hurry, they have private jets that go in and out.
What used to be expensive, now isn't so bad since the major carriers nickel and dime you to death. Plus, I park right at the terminal. No security lines to go through. No hassle with luggage fees, fuel surcharges, some of this fee, more of that fee.
Too bad they don't fly to other places. But, they have a nice little business. I think they're expanding to the Carolinas, too. Plus, if you need a last minute flight, they're actually cheaper than Delta, United, etc.
In an attempt to segue into car sales, once again, don't surprise your customers with extra fees, or attempt to charge them for every little possible thing, you'll secure your customer's loyalty.
dino....I just had my oil changed in my 335i a couple of months ago. Mileage was 11K and change. But, as you point out, the "oil minder" is condition based....OR....every year, whichever comes first (in order to comply with BMW's free maintenance plan). I should have looked at how many more miles to go before the "oil minder" said I would need a change. I forgot to look.
Another point, BMW requires synthetic oil, which extends oil change intervals pretty dramatically.
reminds me that I should probably get the oil changed on the volvo soon. The Acura dealer I bought it from said they did it, so based on that , it is up to about 5K on it. 6 would be my max.
I actually use my Odyssey as a guide. That is the only car we have with an oil minder, and in normal use it ends up consistently being right around 6K intervals it calls for. So I used that for my Accord too (at the max).
>What used to be expensive, now isn't so bad since the major carriers nickel and dime you to death. Plus, I park right at the terminal. No security lines to go through. No hassle with luggage fees, fuel surcharges, some of this fee, more of that fee.
Plus they have leather seating. I hear the commercials all the time while listening to 550 or 700. Interesting to know they're cheaper on last minute booking. I checked for seats on a flight my sister-in-law (a United flight attendant) was coming into Dayton on to see if she should be able to get on or if all seats were filled. United offered me $750 for that flight from Chicago to Dayton.
Can't imagine they'd on purpose program it to be wrong just to save a few dollars on maintenance schedule
Exactly, when you bought cars that needed oil changes every 3K miles it is hard to accept that they can engineer cars to go 10K or 15K between changes. I tried to take my last BMW in for an oil change early because 15K sounded like a lot of miles, but they wouldn't do it until it was close to when the car showed it needed it.
Remember when long distance cost about $1 a minute to call 50 miles away, and you would call person-to-person and ask for the person so you wouldn't have to pay for the call, but you could make sure someone arrived? Now you can call around the world for 4 cents a minute.
What's interesting is that the MINI does have a service indicator which activated a couple months ago. Scheduled the service with the dealer and they almost didn't want to do it as the miles were so low. However, when they looked at the time interval they were OK with setting the appointment.
Like BMW, MINI service is free for the first 4 years or 50K. Daughter ponied up some money when we bought the car to extend that out to 7 years (can't remember the mileage limit but it doesn't matter since it gets driven so little).
There is a thread here on Edmunds about CX-7 engine woes .. lots of folks on the hook for a new engine or top-end rebuild. I got a letter from Mazda that extends my warranty out to 7 years or 70K. I'm not taking any chances and will continue to get my oil changes done at the dealer.
In fact, I probably need to set up an appointment in the next few weeks to have that done. The CX-7 isn't getting driven as much lately (wife and daughter commute to work together and they usually take the MINI as it gets better mileage).
. I got a letter from Mazda that extends my warranty out to 7 years or 70K.
That makes me wonder whether that Mazda will be worth very much in 7 years. It seems to me Mazda should be more responsible than that, or give you something in exchange for an engine that could have a fault.
I sure wouldn't want to take the chance on a used Mazda that is out of warranty, if they have a problem that could come up at any time.
Driver, could you refresh me on your cars owned, waiting and anticipated?
The Driver Fleet...I should get a fleet insurance rate. My current car is 2012 BMW 535 Wife has a 2008 BMW 335 but will have a 2013 Audi A4 Wednesday afternoon next week (both cars are manuals) Just put $1000 down on a 2013 VW Passat to be licensed, used and kept in Florida (this will be a manual)
Actually, you have a good memory. Hope that helps. Life is getting confusing....but, in a good way, not complaining.
Sales stories? Yeah i got a ton since from the past 2.5 years since I took a break from edmunds.
Here's a good one, and it involves Land Rover. Now from personal experience, any used Land Rover I came across at any of the dealers I worked at always had issues. Issues that would randomly pop up and randomly go away on their own.
So when I was an Assistant Sales Mgr at a Nissan dealer, this customer came in with his Freelander he bought from that store before I started working there. Long story short he owned it for about a year and was having nothing but issues with it. He wanted to see if we'd buy it back from him for the same price (not a chance), or at least if he can get another car. I think he bought it for $8-$10k from us.
Anyways he came in and told me he'd go for a used Altima or Maxima and asked me to see what I can do. I asked him for the keys to his Freelander and went out to appraise it. Took it for a 10 minute drive, made sure all the electricals worked (they did) and came back.
I told him the only thing we can do is take it on trade for wholesale market value at about $3500-$4000. He became furious, flipped out, started yelling at me argued for a few minutes took his keys back and went out to his Freelander. But the Freelander didn't want to start for no particular reason. So now this agitated guy comes back in even more ticked off and yells "what the eff did you do to my car?" :mad:
I told him straight up, do you think I disabled your car in some way so I could have you in my showroom yelling at me?
I ended up getting a technician from the back to play around with the ignition and finally finally after 30 minutes the car started and the customer left.
Anyways another lesson for me why I wouldn't touch older Land Rovers.
I told him the only thing we can do is take it on trade for wholesale market value at about $3500-$4000.
A used Freelander would make a very nice vehicle, for $6000 or $7000 on the market. I wouldn't have the patience dealing with those kind of issues though.
That guy has to use the Driver method of cost averaging. If he bought it for $8K and could get $4K out of it it cost him $4000 a year to drive (plus repairs, but that is the penalty for not doing his homework).
That is why I would prefer to buy new. If you can get the initial down payment he could probably be driving a new Sonata for that kind of money....and know it is going to have a warranty and get him where he wants to go.
Hey Boom, you can use that line for selling cars if you want to....just tell potential customers to use the "Driver Method of Dollar Cost Averaging". DMDCA
Here are a few quotes from Mike Miller, who answers tech questions for the readers of BMW CCA's Roundel magazine as well as Bimmer:
Once BMW began paying for scheduled maintenance, lo and behold the schedule was continually revised to eliminate maintenance items. Today, according to BMW, the cars hardly need any maintenance at all. The 1,200-mile break-in service was done away with except for M cars. Engine oil suddenly lasts 15,000 miles (dealers are supposed to use BMW synthetic oil). Manual gearbox and differential oil? Now BMW says they never need to be changed on the non-M cars; it’s “lifetime fill.” Brake fluid and coolant service intervals were doubled with no change in the original BMW brake fluid and anti-freeze dealers are supposed to use. As of 2005, coolant is now “lifetime fill” as well – with no change in the actual coolant.
BMW recommends their Castrol 5W-30 synthetic motor oil in all BMWs except contemporary M cars, for which they recommend their Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 synthetic motor oil. BMW recommends Castrol SLX Professional OE 5W-30 for the Efficient Dynamics diesel engines (but not the E28 524td). The factory oil change interval is controlled electronically, but is presently about every 15,000 miles. If you are running BMW’s oil, I recommend oil and filter change intervals of 7,500 miles at the most, depending upon the results of oil analysis.
Oil analysis is really the only way to validate your oil choice and your drain interval.
FYI, I forgot to mention that my 318ti consumes oil at the rate of 2,500-3,000 miles per quart -and has done so since new- so the UOA that I referred to includes three quarts of oil that were added over the OCI- 57 % of the 5.25 quart capacity of the engine. The added three quarts replenishes the additive package, which explains the high TBN.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
They might be ok when they work. Otherwise they'll age you about 10 years in one year due to the stress and frustration
I wouldn't mind having a later Discovery II, but there's no way you could even give me a Freelander. The slushboxes are extremely short-lived and the rest of the truck is no geat shakes either. Some LR dealers won't even take them in trade...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Michaell - smart move getting those oil changes done at the dealer, especially if there are engine failure issues.
I use the Maintenance Minder schedule on my wife's Pilot. I take it in when the oild life is down to about 15%. I have the dealership use full synthetic oil. The Pilot has had 3 oil changes in the 22,000 + miles we've owned it (1 year & 3 months.
I just went out to check the maintenance minder on my BMW. Current mileage is 7,261 (5 months). The car says it is due for an oil service in 9,000 miles.
Update on my friend's Audi. Apparently there were some very significant rain storms last week in South Florida. My friend drove through some standing water in the right lane without even thinking twice. His CEL illuminated for a split second & then went off. He drove to dinner, the car started up right away afterwards, & drove home. Sunday AM he started the car up & drove. Right before he's about to get on the FLA Turnpike, his dash lights up like a Christmas Tree, the car sputters & stops, then he smells oil. Dealer says the engine failure is due to hydro-lock. He's filed an insurance claim. They are most likely going to total out the car.
Audi has offered him $1500 toward the purchase of a new Audi. He's contacted a dealer to see if there's a 2012 A4 that fits his wants. Between the $1500, there's a lot of rebates & loyalty bonuses. I'll post the sales story when it happens.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I'm still trying to figure driver's germ free car. If you could get all the germs out of it (something I'm all in favor of - especially these days of compromised immune system). My question is how would you prevent the germs from taking things right back over? They are everywhere!
Maybe you have to periodically boil the car...
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
Hydrolocked? After a puddle and then subsequent driving? Doesn't make sense to me, but if insurance agrees then run with it. That was a fortunate turn of events. If the engine truly self destructed from standing water that didn't flood the passenger compartment, I'd be asking some tough questions of Audi about where they place the air intakes.
Edit: I wonder if the water pooled in an intake pipe low spot or bend, and then released all at once? Strange that it took so long to manifest.
Anyways another lesson for me why I wouldn't touch older Land Rovers.
I know somebody who wouldn’t touch a new one.
Mrs. j has a long time high school friend that has a small family business that has made this family quite well off. The father started the biz and build it to something pretty good. The girl married a guy who now runs the biz and he has maintained the health of it and is about to pass it down to their sons. They are both very nice down to earth people but for some reason she thought that they should get a Land Rover because of its utility of use for some of the trinkets they buy for the biz and part of the justification was it could be used as a business expense. The guy didn’t want the thing but he gave in. He still kicks himself for buying it vs. leasing it but that is another story.
I can’t tell you how many horror stories he told me about that beast. For fear of people running into it in the winter, when the snow was on the ground, he just left it in the garage. He didn’t like the idea of diminished value when he got rid of it. He knew it was going to be bad enough as it was and didn’t want to compound the problem. After 3 years of wondering how much rack time it would get in any given month he unloaded it and I mean he damn near gave it away. He bought a Toyota Highlander and said, “I almost forgot what it felt like to own a vehicle where you didn’t have to hold your breath and wonder is this the day it won’t start, is this the day some widget acts up, is this the day I’ll be late because it just stopped dead on the road and then after a while it starts and everything is OK again, is this the day the tail gate acts up, is this the ?”
You couldn’t give that a guy any model of a Land Rover new or used.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
RB...that makes me think.....2013 Audi S4 (3.0L 6 cyl Supercharged)....recommended oil change interval is 5K miles.
BMW 335i with 3.0L 6 cyl, dual scroll turbo, 15K-16K miles oil change intervals.
NYC......that must have been something more than a puddle that your friend drove through to cause hydro lock. That's too bad for him. But, insurance should cover it.
As an aside, the Audi regional manager called me this a.m. wondering if everything was sorted out to my satisfaction regarding the GF's S4. I told him that, "yes", all's well". We chatted for about 20-30 minutes about customer service, his dealerships (he's based in Detroit and covers Ohio, too), and having the car serviced at the local dealerships who were so unwilling to help earlier. He assured me I'd get top notch treatment and to call him when before I took the car in for service so he could personally track it. Sounds like a plan to me.
Will he personally track it? I dunno. Maybe he just makes a quick phone call asking about the service for me. But, still nice to know.
Again, just like the airlines, car companies and their dealerships see to have forgotten how much good customer service means to their business.
Once more, I buy a lot of new cars (for an individual). You would think I'm the bullseye of the kind of customer any dealership would kill for.
Would you pay $350 to have your car completely cleaned, and the interior of the car would be certified 99% completely germ free?
No. Is this some type of new marketing approach used to attract germ-o-phobe buyers? I think $350 is too much.
If you were buying a used car, would you pay $200 more, to get the car cleaned...
No. Dealerships already charge 500 bucks to clean and prep a used car. I would want to know what the dealership does to claim cars "certified germ free" after treating it.... spray a can of Lysol inside the interior? Pass.
If really interested, make an offer based on what you feel service is worth. I'd guess mark-up from 50-75%.
I think Mike's opinions are 4 years old, before engines were improved. He may also have OCD (Obsessive compulsive disorder) and just like to do things more often than he really has to.
Even he said: The fact that my opinions may differ from those of others does not mean anyone is necessarily right or wrong. You will get a different answer from every person you ask about routine vehicle maintenance.
That to me says opinions vary, I don't know what makes him more knowledgeable than BMW Corporation. He has an agenda too, to make him standout as the knowledgeable BMW guy. Almost sounds like a conspiracy theory, BMW now provides free maintenance so they are saving a few bucks and cutting back on the requirements. I dunno???
Then he says:
You should also know that in my work I have observed the most common reason for BMW drivability problems in contemporary cars with over 100,000 miles is that they need a tune up – spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filter.
So, oil doesn't seem to be much of a problem.
I am not convinced, I'll do what the manufacturer recommends. Right now I have 12K miles on the 535 and it says the next oil change should be at 6000 miles more. So the car calculates I can go 18K miles before an oil change....that's OK with me.
My question is how would you prevent the germs from taking things right back over? They are everywhere! Maybe you have to periodically boil the car...
It's like Lestoil or something. A used car comes in, who knows what has been going on in the car, and by the way, one article I read said a steering wheel has more germs on it than a toilet seat. People eat while driving and never clean the steering wheel. So germs multiply.
This stuff kills all the germs in the car, it is as good as a new car. Of course, it won't last forever, but you get a fresh new start.
My friend thinks it could be a big thing. Dealerships would bring their used cars in and people would buy a certified germ free car.
Comments
got the cheap seats. Next time I asked for first class and got better seats, but
wondered what went on behind the smoked glass doors. Last two times I said
I want in the smoked glass car seats. She said "Oh, That's First-First Class" I
said yes, that's what I want. Wow. Nice. Recliner chairs with American movies
with Japanese subtitles and Frank Sinatra on the seat speakers when the
movie was done.
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
I have to say, once we got through with the nonsense, the rest went pretty well. They sent what looks like an offer to purchase, though it is different from any purchase offer I have ever seen, with a price plus extras and it all looks to be in order.
I read customer reviews for Khun and Lockey and Khun did seem worse and Lockey was slightly better. Boast is in Bradenton but it is a difficult to get there, a long drive through lots of traffic.
It is pretty sad when none of the dealers gets a lot of praise. All I can say is I got a fair price, so I am satisfied so far, we'll see how the rest goes. Since we are only going to do about 3000 miles a year on this car I don't expect to spend too much time in their shop. The dealer in Brandonis probably the easiest to get to, and the salesman and owner seemed very nice, but the reviews were the worst - so I just didn't want to go there.
One thing is, few people give great reviews, most people only write a review when they have a complaint.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Just joking JM........
I know you’re joking but you are distorting the facts. The XG350 didn’t blow up until the dealer did the LAST oil change about a month before the car blew up. That was the 15 th oil change that car had in approximately 43K miles. I did 13 of the previous 14 oil changes myself. The only other oil change that was not done by me was done by a tire shop that I used to buy from and I had a valid receipt showing when that oil change was done (May 2010, I think).
If you remember, the problem arose when the dealer questioned one of my entries on my oil log sheet. That was the technicality that was used to deny warranty work.
FWIW, the dealer did not use the prescribed 10W30 oil they used 5W20, at least that is what the windshield sticker said. Now, was that the cause of the engine blowup, who knows but my gut feeling is it was not but I’ve been wrong before.
I don’t know what I’d give to know for sure if the 5W20 oil was the cause of the engine failure a month later with only 500 miles put on the car.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
2018 430i Gran Coupe
What is your take on oil changes? Is 10,000 miles acceptable or should it be changed more frequently and under what conditions?
2024 Genesis G90 Super-Charger
What is your take on oil changes? Is 10,000 miles acceptable or should it be changed more frequently and under what conditions?
If you want my opinion, I say 5000 miles for synthetic is overkill unless the manufacture says otherwise. I'm pretty conservative myself but I'd go 7500/8000 miles with synthetic, again, unless the manufacture says otherwise.
Under what conditions? The way a normal person would drive and I'd say the regulars here are normal, at least in that respect. :surprise:
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
2,400 miles on it. I'll do my changes per the monitor since it warns you
in yellow when it hits 5% and in red when it hits 0%.
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
I'm beginning to think I may pull through this.
That was very FUNNY!
So, *jmonroe, around 8000 miles. Sounds good to me.
2024 Genesis G90 Super-Charger
Just an uneducated guess, but I don't think the 5W20 oil or even if you missed an oil change which I know you didn't, caused the engine to blow.
People miss oil changes and don't do that kind of damage. It had to be an engine failure or malfunction, or the oil leaked out somewhere, or maybe they didn't even fill the car up, or overfilled it which is just as bad.
Your situation is just so wierd, a person who goes above and beyond to do the right thing then gets caught up in beauracratic red tape and gets blamed for making a minor recording error. I know, it just seemed appropriate to tie it in with the poor guy and his Audi.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
We will see how it goes. They seem to have stopped playing games and have been very nice to me. If this all goes without a hitch they may even get a good report from me. It is odd, the bill of sale just lists the price and extras with a total. It doesn't say what color or interior color. I have sent that to them, they may have it from earlier emails, but it isn't on the bill of sale.
We'll see how it goes, the initial problems were pretty bad, but hopefully the rest will go fine.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Why use synthetic if you change it every 5000 miles. The 535 goes 15K miles between oil changes and BMW won't do them earlier. If it is needed before that the car probably calculates that. If you change oil more often then needed you are wasting your money and natural recourses.
Maybe you feel better, like giving a kid candy to spoil them, but I think you are over doing it. I'll go the limit, greater minds than mine study this stuff and if the car maker figures out how long the oil will last I will go along with that.
They study this stuff and spend big bucks to figure it all out. I wouldn't use the old guidlines we use to use which made sense then, you have to trust the new technology at some points. Changing oil every 5000 miles is like looking back to make sure nothing is behind you when backing up, when you can use the rear view camera.
BTW, the Audi has a lane change flasher. If you signal a lane change and a car is in your blindspot a light on the mirrow flickers. I find it incredible the things they are thinking of. So, I would drive to the limit as far as oil changes, or pretty close to it (within 1000 or 2000 miles at least).
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
When I had my 535i's, oil changes were every 15,000 miles or every year, whichever came first. BMW dealer changed my oil as part of the maintenance as you also have, but they insisted that the oil be changed at least once a year, no matter how little mileage the car had been driven. I guess they changed the oil requirements since 2008.
I use synthetic because it is required. Lexus pays for the first tire rotation at 5000 miles and then pays for the first oil change at 10,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. My Mercedes had an interval of 10,000 miles also for oil changes, but they also had a stipulation that the oil had to be changed at least once a year, no matter hoe little the car is driven.
5W30 oil and the engine problem (jmonroe)
I doubt very much that an engine would blow because 5W30 was used instead of 10w30 or even 20W30 oil. There had to have been a defect in a piston or valve to have an engine blow after only being driven 500 miles after an oil change. Definitely an engine defect.
Consensus seems to be to change synthetic oil as prescribed by the manufacturer (10,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first)!
So I will change oil only when recommended by the manufacturer.
Thanks for all your input - it helped me change my old dogie ideas about oil changes!
2024 Genesis G90 Super-Charger
I'd be willing to bet that it was just a fluke and the engine just had a random failure. I'm sure Hyundai knew it but didn't want to fix it because, with the technicality, they didn't think they had to.
As for over filling or under filling; since it's my car I do checks of other peoples work when someone other than me touches my car. When Mrs. j came home from the dealer after they did the oil change she left the car in the driveway because she knew I'd be checking the oil when I got home. The oil level was just a hair over the full mark (not even 8 or 10 oz, if I had to guess) and I attribute that to the bulk fill that they do from a hose.
After Mrs. j called to tell me that she had a problem (remember, at first she thought she hit something) I met her at the gas station right where she had the problem before the tow truck got there. I'd say she didn't move the car more than 150 after the rod went through the block. I could see a small trail of oil from the road to where she parked it after getting it off the road. I checked the oil level 3 times before the tow truck got there. The oil level was not down more than a pint. So even then it had plenty of oil. It just made a LOT of noise when I stated it up one time.
I know the importance of oil changes and it's ironic that something like this happened to me. My fellow workers said, "you, of all people, had something like this happen, so I know it can happen to me". That didn't make me feel any better but I know damn well it had nothing to do with me doing the oil changes.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
On my BMWs and Mazda I have the used oil analyzed in order to determine the appropriate oil change interval(OCI). Here's what I have learned:
The direct injected and turbocharged Mazda engine is notoriously hard on oil, yet Mobil 1 5W-30 is good for at least 7,500 miles- but I wouldn't want to run it much longer than that. Here is what Blackstone Labs said about my latest 7,500 mile sample:
Your Speed3 has crossed the 100,000-mile point and it's still wearing like a champ. In fact, this is some of the lowest wear we've seen from your engine recently and you didn't have to shorten your oil run to get it. Sometimes we see a little fuel in the oil with this engine, but even that really hasn't been an issue. The trace amount here isn't anything harmful and is probably just from taking the sample cold or just driving around town. The TBN was 1.9, which is getting low, but there's still some active additive here. Looking good at 107,152 miles
The X3's M54 motor totally depletes the additive package by 10,000 miles. No way would I run a 15,000 mile OCI. I've tried oil that meets BMW's LL-01 spec and I've also run heavy-duty synthetics designed for turbo diesel commercial engines- same result. Blackstone's latest comment at 132,000 miles(Using 5W-40 Rotella T6):
Universal averages for BMW's M54 I-6 are based on about 6,400 miles on the oil. You ran this oil 8,352 miles, and wear read at or below average across the board. That's the best indication we know of that an engine is in good mechanical shape internally.
Last of all, my 1995 318ti track rat. I change it when the car tells me to- at @8,000 miles. It's funny how BMW OCIs doubled at just about the same time BMW started paying for maintenance. Here's Blackstone again, the oil used was Mobil 1 0W-40:
Your BMW's engine appears to be doing quite well at 125,244 miles. Our universal averages show normal wear for the M42 4-cylinder after 3,800 miles of oil use. You ran this 0W/40 oil well past that mark(8,242 miles), so it was nice to see all metals reading close to or below average. They were also in balance to one another and that shows normally wearing parts and no mechanical problems brewing. The oil's TBN was 5.7, meaning there was lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 means it is too low. Air and oil filtration (see silicon/insolubles) were normal.
Bottom line: I think a 10,000 mile OCI is fine if you use a quality synthetic, but I wouldn't exceed that mileage without having the oil analyzed.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I like Hyundais, I think they represent very good value on the market and honestly I like the Elantras better than the Civics. Just more bang for the buck.
I personally drive a BMW anyways, not a Hyundai, and probably wouldn't trade it for anything (really fell in love with the way it drives, nothing really compares....that I found yet :shades: ) but that's personal preference. If I were personally shopping for a new car, Hyundai would be on top of my list.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Oh yes, I forgot to mention that. Oil, even synthetic gets degraded over time, maybe even more when not being used, so it should definitely be changed once a year.
That means the Passat will probably get an oil change once a year at about 2500 miles!!!!!!! I hear synthetic oil changes can cost about $140.
On the Audi they will do that and warranty any problems for 4 years for $750. The sales manager said it's a good deal, with the cost of parts etc that could easily cost double, but they want you to come back to the dealer for work on the car. So, that is one warranty we will do. Audi is also 10000 miles.
Going for 10000 miles before oil change will be fine.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
I think that is just a coincidence and that is only a personal opinion. BMW will gladly sell you an extended warranty and I don't think they want the engines breaking down because the oil wasn't changed enough.
I don't think they come up with a number like 15K miles to save themselves some money and risk engines failing. Most people don't buy a BMW because it can go that far between oil changes. The changes in engines and in the oil itself allow the car to go 15000 between oil changes.
The oil's TBN was 5.7, meaning there was lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 means it is too low.
Wouldn't that mean you could have gone a lot further with the oil you had?
It seems your cars may be driven harder than average, I don't know for sure, so you may want to get your oil changed more often than manufacturer recommends, but for the average person, it is probably fine to go the limit.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Great, hope you enjoyed the day!
Stick around, we miss your comments.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
How about a good sales story....you must have something after all this time.
Our Audi salesman, who is the best salesman I have ever dealt with, said he loves selling Audis and that is why he works there. He said if he was to switch brands he would want to sell Hyundais....that would be the most fun and he likes to sell cars he really believes in.
I think like you, he wouldn't necessarily buy one, but he likes to sell cars that people will enjoy and that give real value for the buyer.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
On my '06 Saturn ION, I usually go about 7-8K between changes. The car is equipped with an oil life monitor, plus I get monthly reports from OnStar. The last few changes were with a semi-synthetic, but on my most recent oil change last week I switched to a 'high mileage' blend.
The wife's 2010 Mazda CX-7, however, gets full synthetic every 5000 miles. This is the same engine as in RB's Speed3, but there are known issues with failures so I'm having all work done at the dealer. BTW, I'm charged around $50 for a full synthetic oil change.
My daughter's 2010 MINI goes in once a year for an oil change .. since she doesn't drive that much, it's based on time more than mileage (we've had the car 28 months and it's got about 16K on it).
IMHO, your oil change times make sense. I was curious to know the recommended interval for the mini...probably 10K. But doing it once a year if it is driven less than that would be wise.
On the Mazda, since there are issues 5K miles is probably prudent, especially since the oil change costs just $50.
I haven't looked it up but I would think, if the oil companies could sell you more oil they would, and they would be the first to recommend having your oil changed sooner than the manufacturer.
Here is some good non partial information about the frequency of changing your oil;
When to Change Your Oil
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
January Statistics On Airport Screening From The Department Of Homeland Security:
Terrorists Discovered 0
Politicians with nothing to hide 0
Transvestites 133
Hernias 1,485
Hemorrhoid Cases 3,172
Enlarged Prostates 8,249
Honest Lawyers 0
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
BTW, mine so far shows me change at 16K. I just crossed 12K and the programs says 4K remaining - the countdown was every 1000 miles (12000, 11000, etc.) up to 5000 remaining, now it is every 100 miles (4900, 4800, etc.). Kind of validates my feelings my previous cars did not need to go through "severe" schedules due to driving conditions (my commuting is majority highway at speeds 60-70 mph and about 20% city - plus city/errands on weekends and occasional longer trips).
2018 430i Gran Coupe
There's a little cottage airline at what was, at one time, going to be Cincinnati Airport (kyfdx would know this as Lunken Field). While not far reaching, any time I need to get to NYC or Chicago in a hurry, they have private jets that go in and out.
What used to be expensive, now isn't so bad since the major carriers nickel and dime you to death. Plus, I park right at the terminal. No security lines to go through. No hassle with luggage fees, fuel surcharges, some of this fee, more of that fee.
Too bad they don't fly to other places. But, they have a nice little business. I think they're expanding to the Carolinas, too. Plus, if you need a last minute flight, they're actually cheaper than Delta, United, etc.
In an attempt to segue into car sales, once again, don't surprise your customers with extra fees, or attempt to charge them for every little possible thing, you'll secure your customer's loyalty.
Another point, BMW requires synthetic oil, which extends oil change intervals pretty dramatically.
I actually use my Odyssey as a guide. That is the only car we have with an oil minder, and in normal use it ends up consistently being right around 6K intervals it calls for. So I used that for my Accord too (at the max).
we do a lot of local driving, so hard on the oil.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Plus they have leather seating. I hear the commercials all the time while listening to 550 or 700. Interesting to know they're cheaper on last minute booking. I checked for seats on a flight my sister-in-law (a United flight attendant) was coming into Dayton on to see if she should be able to get on or if all seats were filled. United offered me $750 for that flight from Chicago to Dayton.
$750! For that I could rent a car and drive.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Exactly, when you bought cars that needed oil changes every 3K miles it is hard to accept that they can engineer cars to go 10K or 15K between changes. I tried to take my last BMW in for an oil change early because 15K sounded like a lot of miles, but they wouldn't do it until it was close to when the car showed it needed it.
Remember when long distance cost about $1 a minute to call 50 miles away, and you would call person-to-person and ask for the person so you wouldn't have to pay for the call, but you could make sure someone arrived? Now you can call around the world for 4 cents a minute.
The world is changing rapidly.................
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Like BMW, MINI service is free for the first 4 years or 50K. Daughter ponied up some money when we bought the car to extend that out to 7 years (can't remember the mileage limit but it doesn't matter since it gets driven so little).
There is a thread here on Edmunds about CX-7 engine woes .. lots of folks on the hook for a new engine or top-end rebuild. I got a letter from Mazda that extends my warranty out to 7 years or 70K. I'm not taking any chances and will continue to get my oil changes done at the dealer.
In fact, I probably need to set up an appointment in the next few weeks to have that done. The CX-7 isn't getting driven as much lately (wife and daughter commute to work together and they usually take the MINI as it gets better mileage).
That makes me wonder whether that Mazda will be worth very much in 7 years. It seems to me Mazda should be more responsible than that, or give you something in exchange for an engine that could have a fault.
I sure wouldn't want to take the chance on a used Mazda that is out of warranty, if they have a problem that could come up at any time.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
If you were buying a used car, would you pay $200 more, to get the car cleaned, and certified germ free?
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
I've lost track with you talking Audi, BMW and Volkswagen and who knows
what's getting traded. BMW5 series is yours, BMW 3 series is wifey's, I
forget if the Audi A4 is yours yet or if the dealer still has it and the VW ?
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
The Driver Fleet...I should get a fleet insurance rate.
My current car is 2012 BMW 535
Wife has a 2008 BMW 335 but will have a 2013 Audi A4 Wednesday afternoon next week (both cars are manuals)
Just put $1000 down on a 2013 VW Passat to be licensed, used and kept in Florida (this will be a manual)
Actually, you have a good memory. Hope that helps. Life is getting confusing....but, in a good way, not complaining.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Here's a good one, and it involves Land Rover. Now from personal experience, any used Land Rover I came across at any of the dealers I worked at always had issues. Issues that would randomly pop up and randomly go away on their own.
So when I was an Assistant Sales Mgr at a Nissan dealer, this customer came in with his Freelander he bought from that store before I started working there. Long story short he owned it for about a year and was having nothing but issues with it. He wanted to see if we'd buy it back from him for the same price (not a chance), or at least if he can get another car. I think he bought it for $8-$10k from us.
Anyways he came in and told me he'd go for a used Altima or Maxima and asked me to see what I can do. I asked him for the keys to his Freelander and went out to appraise it. Took it for a 10 minute drive, made sure all the electricals worked (they did) and came back.
I told him the only thing we can do is take it on trade for wholesale market value at about $3500-$4000. He became furious, flipped out, started yelling at me argued for a few minutes took his keys back and went out to his Freelander. But the Freelander didn't want to start for no particular reason. So now this agitated guy comes back in even more ticked off and yells "what the eff did you do to my car?" :mad:
I told him straight up, do you think I disabled your car in some way so I could have you in my showroom yelling at me?
I ended up getting a technician from the back to play around with the ignition and finally finally after 30 minutes the car started and the customer left.
Anyways another lesson for me why I wouldn't touch older Land Rovers.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
A used Freelander would make a very nice vehicle, for $6000 or $7000 on the market. I wouldn't have the patience dealing with those kind of issues though.
That guy has to use the Driver method of cost averaging. If he bought it for $8K and could get $4K out of it it cost him $4000 a year to drive (plus repairs, but that is the penalty for not doing his homework).
That is why I would prefer to buy new. If you can get the initial down payment he could probably be driving a new Sonata for that kind of money....and know it is going to have a warranty and get him where he wants to go.
Hey Boom, you can use that line for selling cars if you want to....just tell potential customers to use the "Driver Method of Dollar Cost Averaging".
DMDCA
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Once BMW began paying for scheduled maintenance, lo and behold the schedule was continually revised to eliminate maintenance items. Today, according to BMW, the cars hardly need any maintenance at all. The 1,200-mile break-in service was done away with except for M cars. Engine oil
suddenly lasts 15,000 miles (dealers are supposed to use BMW synthetic oil). Manual gearbox and differential oil? Now BMW says they never need to be changed on the non-M cars; it’s “lifetime fill.” Brake fluid and coolant service intervals were doubled with no change in the original BMW brake fluid and anti-freeze dealers are supposed to use. As of 2005, coolant is now “lifetime fill” as well – with no change in the actual coolant.
BMW recommends their Castrol 5W-30 synthetic motor oil in all BMWs except contemporary M cars, for which they recommend their Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 synthetic motor oil. BMW recommends Castrol SLX Professional OE 5W-30 for the Efficient Dynamics diesel engines (but not the E28 524td). The factory oil change interval is controlled electronically, but is presently about every 15,000 miles. If you are running BMW’s oil, I recommend oil and filter change intervals of 7,500 miles at the most, depending upon the results of oil analysis.
Oil analysis is really the only way to validate your oil choice and your drain interval.
FYI, I forgot to mention that my 318ti consumes oil at the rate of 2,500-3,000 miles per quart -and has done so since new- so the UOA that I referred to includes three quarts of oil that were added over the OCI- 57 % of the 5.25 quart capacity of the engine. The added three quarts replenishes the additive package, which explains the high TBN.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I wouldn't mind having a later Discovery II, but there's no way you could even give me a Freelander. The slushboxes are extremely short-lived and the rest of the truck is no geat shakes either. Some LR dealers won't even take them in trade...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I use the Maintenance Minder schedule on my wife's Pilot. I take it in when the oild life is down to about 15%. I have the dealership use full synthetic oil. The Pilot has had 3 oil changes in the 22,000 + miles we've owned it (1 year & 3 months.
I just went out to check the maintenance minder on my BMW. Current mileage is 7,261 (5 months). The car says it is due for an oil service in 9,000 miles.
Update on my friend's Audi. Apparently there were some very significant rain storms last week in South Florida. My friend drove through some standing water in the right lane without even thinking twice. His CEL illuminated for a split second & then went off. He drove to dinner, the car started up right away afterwards, & drove home. Sunday AM he started the car up & drove. Right before he's about to get on the FLA Turnpike, his dash lights up like a Christmas Tree, the car sputters & stops, then he smells oil. Dealer says the engine failure is due to hydro-lock. He's filed an insurance claim. They are most likely going to total out the car.
Audi has offered him $1500 toward the purchase of a new Audi. He's contacted a dealer to see if there's a 2012 A4 that fits his wants. Between the $1500, there's a lot of rebates & loyalty bonuses. I'll post the sales story when it happens.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Maybe you have to periodically boil the car...
Edit: I wonder if the water pooled in an intake pipe low spot or bend, and then released all at once? Strange that it took so long to manifest.
but yeah, if he can get insurance to cover it, consider it a miracle and take the money and run. especially if Audi still gives him a gift!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
This is who I use......
https://www.ultimateairshuttle.com/
These guys make Delta, United, et al look like criminals, with their pricing and total lack of customer service.
I know somebody who wouldn’t touch a new one.
Mrs. j has a long time high school friend that has a small family business that has made this family quite well off. The father started the biz and build it to something pretty good. The girl married a guy who now runs the biz and he has maintained the health of it and is about to pass it down to their sons. They are both very nice down to earth people but for some reason she thought that they should get a Land Rover because of its utility of use for some of the trinkets they buy for the biz and part of the justification was it could be used as a business expense. The guy didn’t want the thing but he gave in. He still kicks himself for buying it vs. leasing it but that is another story.
I can’t tell you how many horror stories he told me about that beast. For fear of people running into it in the winter, when the snow was on the ground, he just left it in the garage. He didn’t like the idea of diminished value when he got rid of it. He knew it was going to be bad enough as it was and didn’t want to compound the problem. After 3 years of wondering how much rack time it would get in any given month he unloaded it and I mean he damn near gave it away. He bought a Toyota Highlander and said, “I almost forgot what it felt like to own a vehicle where you didn’t have to hold your breath and wonder is this the day it won’t start, is this the day some widget acts up, is this the day I’ll be late because it just stopped dead on the road and then after a while it starts and everything is OK again, is this the day the tail gate acts up, is this the ?”
You couldn’t give that a guy any model of a Land Rover new or used.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
BMW 335i with 3.0L 6 cyl, dual scroll turbo, 15K-16K miles oil change intervals.
NYC......that must have been something more than a puddle that your friend drove through to cause hydro lock. That's too bad for him. But, insurance should cover it.
As an aside, the Audi regional manager called me this a.m. wondering if everything was sorted out to my satisfaction regarding the GF's S4. I told him that, "yes", all's well". We chatted for about 20-30 minutes about customer service, his dealerships (he's based in Detroit and covers Ohio, too), and having the car serviced at the local dealerships who were so unwilling to help earlier. He assured me I'd get top notch treatment and to call him when before I took the car in for service so he could personally track it. Sounds like a plan to me.
Will he personally track it? I dunno. Maybe he just makes a quick phone call asking about the service for me. But, still nice to know.
Again, just like the airlines, car companies and their dealerships see to have forgotten how much good customer service means to their business.
Once more, I buy a lot of new cars (for an individual). You would think I'm the bullseye of the kind of customer any dealership would kill for.
No. Is this some type of new marketing approach used to attract germ-o-phobe buyers? I think $350 is too much.
If you were buying a used car, would you pay $200 more, to get the car cleaned...
No. Dealerships already charge 500 bucks to clean and prep a used car. I would want to know what the dealership does to claim cars "certified germ free" after treating it.... spray a can of Lysol inside the interior? Pass.
If really interested, make an offer based on what you feel service is worth. I'd guess mark-up from 50-75%.
Even he said:
The fact that my opinions may differ from those of others does not mean anyone is necessarily right or wrong. You will get a different answer from every person you ask about routine vehicle maintenance.
That to me says opinions vary, I don't know what makes him more knowledgeable than BMW Corporation. He has an agenda too, to make him standout as the knowledgeable BMW guy. Almost sounds like a conspiracy theory, BMW now provides free maintenance so they are saving a few bucks and cutting back on the requirements. I dunno???
Then he says:
You should also know that in my work I have observed the most common reason for BMW drivability problems in contemporary cars with over 100,000 miles is that they need a tune up – spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filter.
So, oil doesn't seem to be much of a problem.
I am not convinced, I'll do what the manufacturer recommends. Right now I have 12K miles on the 535 and it says the next oil change should be at 6000 miles more. So the car calculates I can go 18K miles before an oil change....that's OK with me.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Maybe you have to periodically boil the car...
It's like Lestoil or something. A used car comes in, who knows what has been going on in the car, and by the way, one article I read said a steering wheel has more germs on it than a toilet seat. People eat while driving and never clean the steering wheel. So germs multiply.
This stuff kills all the germs in the car, it is as good as a new car. Of course, it won't last forever, but you get a fresh new start.
My friend thinks it could be a big thing. Dealerships would bring their used cars in and people would buy a certified germ free car.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250