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Ford Super Duty Continued - VII
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Comments
'You'll have to be a little sneaky when talking to the yard or the haul away carrier cause they don't like taking calls from the public'
Oh, we need real truck info in our posts. uh, my SD averages about 15 to 16 mpg. mixed driving..
Y2K F250 XLT SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS
When my truck was "stuck at the yard" I went to Yahoo yellow pages...typed in railroad..for the city I knew the railhead was in....and voila...there was the number to the yard. I called.....pretended I was my salesman....said I had a VERY important client..he he....and had my truck on the transport that day. Just takes a little investigation and a little b*lls.....
Saw a new F150 SuperCrew Lariat on the lot yesterday.....$34,000....CAN YOU BELIEVE IT???!!!
I knew them things would be expensive....a hot item......
Get it replaced! I just sent my stereo out of my 98 Ranger in for repair because the display lights were out. The warranty is barely expired for mileage and it cost me $220! I've heard of alot of other problems with Ford factory radios.
Send me some of that 55 MPG while you're at it...my V-10 is keeping OPEC in business!!
In the 99' book I saw the ratios for all of the gears for both the 5sp, 6sp and auto tranny.
On both the 5sp and 6sp, the lowest gear (1st on the 5sp, and Low on the 6sp) is a creeeper designed to get a heavy load rolling.
The next gear (2nd on the 5sp, and 1st on the 6sp), is still a much higher ratio than 1st on the auto tranny. I which I still had the booklet (for the 99 superduty) and I would post the ratios.
Also, at the factory they drive every truck off the line starting in... 2nd gear..
Note that the SD tranny is designed different than light truck (like a Ranger) and car manual tranny's, which don't have 'creeper' low gears designed for towing.
I also hear the clunking much louder on the rare occasions I've used first.. And its difficult to get a smooth shift from 1st to 2nd because one tends to over rev in 1st.
I believe the 'clunking' we are hearing is within the tranny itself, and is likely more prevalent in 1st/2nd because the difference in meshing gear sizes is the greatest then.
I think this is normal for a truck the size of the Superduty. It's certainly not a car or my old Ranger.
Go to another and see if you can find a 5sp w/ the 5.4L or V10 to drive. You'll hear the same thing..
Speaking of hearing things. You hearing the 'exhaust flutter' which sounds a little like an engine ping when you accelerate in 3rd/4th/od?
I ordered an F350 CC in January, still a have not, and wondered exactly what the privacy glass option gets me? My understanding is that the two rear windows and the rear sliding window will be a heavy tint, which I expect. My question is does the front windshield differ with this option? Does the front windshield have that annoying heavy tint at the first 6 or 8 inches that is on many American cars? I am over 6' and have found on many vehicles that I am looking right into that heavy tint. I noticed an F150 in a parking lot that had the tint bar and it made me wonder if the SuperDuties have it. Anyone know or have the same problem?
off topic.. you looking at Linux at all? the stuff over there is all open source! the problem is not many app development tools but Corel is about to change that with the purchase of Inprise. this upgrade thing with MS is getting just a little bit ludicrous (I see them as nothing but revenue "generators" for MS with very little useful added functionality). these OS's ought to be faster & more robust... not clunkier, & more resource hungry than ever with suspect robustness (compared to desktop OS's like OS/2). if you've any comment on this send to email (it's on my profile).
djpstman... the tint options don't affect the front seat side windows or windshield so the shield does NOT have the "gradient" tint that you're describing.
Windshield/tint
I'm 6'4" and hate those top tinted windshields, too. This is not a problem on my 250 SD. No top tint and the roof is NOT in the way. Maybe it's a regional thing? The rear privacy glass is about 35% (limited by law in GA) and you get the rear slider, too. I can see great out the windshield.
CD: I had mine replaced within a week of delivery. Same symptoms: No eject, error message, stop and re start. Interesting that the owner's manual says to check for hot conditions. They pulled it and replaced it in 5 minutes. Go for it, you paid several hundred bucks for that thing.
Clunking: I've got the V10 and auto. No clunking, but when I go in or out of a driveway too fast, I get a gawd awful clunk from the suspension. I suspect that I still expect it to sound like my old 150 with front coil springs. This beast has four leaf springs. Massive, but it moves slow. If I remember this is a truck, not a toy, I don't get a sound.
Changed the oil at 1,000 miles. Figured if it's good enough for Mercedes, it's good enough for the SD. Interesting tiny crud left in the bottom of the drain pan when I recycled the old oil. Looked like tiny shavings. Glad I got them out.
I've looked high and low for low sided floor mats. The closest I could find were those from Fox Enterprises, but I just didn't want to pay $100 to wipe my feet. I finally found some trim to fits from Kraco at K-Mart that are almost just right for $30. Right color, too. Close enough.
Getting 13 mpg consistly in mixed driving with 14.5 on the road. Gas here northeast of Atlanta was $1.29 today at QT.
I like this truck. It looks just the right size after a month, but it's a pain to park. (250 CC,SB) Pity the CC LB owner. :-)
Long post, but I had to catch up.
incidentally, the bnsf has apparently unloaded my truck in naperville, ill (which i can't find on a map). now lets hope that the darn thing doesn't get distracted by some slick sportscar and miss it's ride here...
I have had a power chip installed. MPG was 22.5 at 70 MPH for 60 miles. I couldn't belive it. There are about 10 PS in my area and all of the owners are saying there milage increase considerably.
I've noticed that several people have changed their oil before 3,000 mi on the first change. I have always understood that one should leave the break-in oil in long enough to seat the rings properly. Changing it out early may cause the motor to use more oil later on. I may be wrong about that.
sorry
5spd - 1st 5.72 - 2nd 2.94 - 3rd 1.61 - 4th 1.00 - 5th 0.76
6spd - low 5.79 - 1st 3.31 - 2nd 2.10 - 3rd 1.31 - 4th 1.00 - 5th 0.72
auto - 1st 2.71 - 2nd 1.54 - 3rd 1.00 - 4th 0.71
I drive a v10 5spd and always start in 2nd when unloaded. the only time 1st gets used is loaded or when I want to creep in traffic instead of riding the clutch.
Powerstroke, as for your rough idle when backing and turning... I'VE GOT THAT TOO!!! Ford change the rear carrier and shims but its still there!
Cold start, backing up slowly and usually turning the wheel... Thump, shudder, shudder, shake. That too is driving me bonkers. I'm losing my mind litlle by little and I didn't have a lot to start with.
Any IDEAS Guys???
I financed my 92 truck via Alaska USA Federal Credit Union. My job transferred me out of state in 93. I bought my Superduty from a dealership in Oklahoma when I lived in Dallas and I financed it through Alaska USA. I financed my camper on the same loan, wrapping them both up in a RV loan. I had Alaska USA send the camper dealer payment in full, and then the balance of the loan to the truck dealer. I carried a cashier's check to the dealer to close the deal, but they already had a good chunk of the money before I got there. They also had a written commitment to Alaska USA to sell me the exact truck with the exact VIN before Alaska USA would give them the check, so there was no chance they could sell the truck to someone else after I flew up to get the truck.
Alaska USA will take care of your tags and registration also. Make sure that the out-of-state dealer knows that you will not be paying their local sales tax. As long as your registering the truck in Alaska, you pay our sales tax, which of course is zero. When I bought my truck in Oklahoma, I paid my local sales tax in Texas, not the OK tax.
snowey,
I have a 4,000 pound slide-in camper. I have frame mounts for my tie-downs and wouldn't have it any other way. The camper dealer put them on as part of the installation. As far as the sag, I have a dually and my truck squats a bit. It looks level, but it is definitely sitting back a bit. I've got close to 29,000 on the truck, with about 10,000 of that with the camper on. I'm probably going to put air bags on the truck in May so it rides at the level it was designed to operate most efficiently. I haven't had any handling problems without the air bags, though.
northpole,
I can't believe Walmart in Wasilla or Anchorage didn't have one. I wonder if Home Depot, Fred Meyer or Eagle Hardware would have had one? Did you know they were planning to expand the Wasilla Walmart and one is opening up in Eagle River in a month or so?
I can relate to your dirty truck. I rotated my tires yesterday and the guy looked at my truck and asked if it was black. I knew our February and March were to mild to be true. We got dumped on with about six inches of snow in town on Monday and the Hillside area got over a foot. I suspect it will be gone next week. We do have over 12 hours of daylight now and it's getting brighter every day. It's almost time to dust off the fishing gear and vacuum sealer.
Sherwoodfor, my truck arived at the rail in Mesquite on a thrusday, and was at the dealer on monday. Good luck! I do feal like Indiana Jones when I am driving the truck, it is great!!!
Lewac, what you describe is exactly what I am hearing. It does clunk, not clank, and it does not do it without jerking. Driving habits have really changed. Have to wait for a clearence every time I pull out. Won't race any mustangs with this thing. I will still try to drive another, just to ease my pain. I'll e-mail you about the linux.
When I get the "that's the way it's supposed to sound" from the dealer, it reminds me of how people must feel when I tell them they have to reboot ther PC's. I guess the best way is research the stuff yourself, and ya'll have made that much easier for me.
Thanks!!!!
If your in 1st or 2nd rolling along at idle, then push the clutch in.. There's a little extra thud that occurs..
Heres my theory of whats happening: simply gear mesh.. Prior to pushing the clutch in, the tranny is driving the wheels (driveshaft). When you push the clutch in, the wheels (drivshaft) is driving the tranny. At that instant, the load switches from one side of the mesh to the other.. This is the clunk..
The reason you don't hear it at high speed:
- The tranny is spinning much faster, so the transition isn't as harsh (clutch out to clutch in)
- At speed theres more road noise to hide it.
- Gear mesh might be a little cleaner..
Sorry, I don't mean to beat this subject to death.
Hopefully it makes dwucher feel a little better..
The first oil is the same weight as the later oil, in this case, 5W30 as recommended by the factory. No special break in oil is used. Why not get the trash out that doesn't wind up in the filter as soon as possible? The first oil is obviously washing the insides of the engine down. It was pretty filthy. Oil doesn't lose it's lubricating properties until it begins to break down at the molecular level and separate out, and the reason it starts out clean and gets dark is that the additives in the oil are catching the carbon, and other crud and taking them away from the vital spots in suspension.
So I can't really see that waiting does anything particularly good for the engine and early change may not help,but it won't hurt either. My $.02.
Tom169, haven't heard of any complains with cold backups before. (And I back in almost everyplace so any cold moving I do is forward.) You might check www.ford-diesel.com and see if anyone there knows whats going on or has any ideas...
They're molded to fit the trans humps and anchor to the factory carpet. I really like mine; we still have a lot of snow and other assorted debris and so far they've been bulletproof.
Ordered: 1/20
Order "cancelled" by Ford: 2/15
Order submitted to factory: 3/7
Build date: 3/27
ETA: week of 4/17
'00 F250 SC SB V-10 auto 4X4 4.3LS Lariat Dk. Toreador Red.
When I ordered my salesman said their average had been 10-12 weeks for a truck order. So far they are right on the money. Kallis Ford, Belfast, ME. Great, honest folks.
koakey-I didn't know about the black light tracer fluid, you are just a veritable FOUNT of information! I'm still in awe. :-) (I just gotta ask, what's your occupation? )
As big Elmo used to say, "Boy, you'll learn something new every day if you pay attention."
lilelmo, check also www.performanceproducts.com . Don't know if they have the Catch-Alls yet on their web page but in their latest catalog they're in there. If you order 2 (in my case, fronts and backs) you get 10% off. I had the stock floor mats in my truck less than 12 hours (overnight). The Catch-alls were waiting for it to come home and I'm very pleased with them.
As for the 'fount of information' I'd like to take the credit but I've learned almost all of it from www.ford-diesel.com . That place is an incredible collection of knowledge (that's where I learned about the Snugtop, Catch-alls, and glow-in-the-black-light googum in the factory oil (plus tons of other things
Me? I'm a software engineer...
When I got home last night I had a message that my truck is schedule for build the week of April 24th. VORA dated January 31. F350 XLT 4x4 CC LWB V10. Is it about 4 weeks after build for delivery? I am trying to time selling my current 93 F250. Plus, the salesman told me that he didn't have all the VIN #'s yet. He did tell me it starts with 1F. Should he know all the numbers now? I have looked at the info on this website and thought that once I have a build date, I'm serialized, and should have a VIN #. Am I assuming too much?
Thanks for the advice !!!
However, once you're serialized, you should have the full VIN. I'd also be thinking that if you have a "partial" VIN that the full VIN should be available unless your sls rep is pulling your leg and hoping that the truck will be built at KTP and give you the VIN starting with '1'.
As I sit here and try to remember, I *think* I got the VIN before the build date...
anyway, thanks again for the perfect info.
what config did you get?
all: i have looked for the darn ford-diesel site which has the checklist for picking up your rig, but can't find it. even went back to post #300 in sdvi, and still can't find it. does anyone have that thread easily at hand? much appreciated if you could post it.
2000 F250SD CC LB Lariat 4x4 v10 auto 3.73LS green/gold tow etc
ordered 12/21, built and released 3/16
LineX, RollNLock, undercoating/rustproofing, Ford molded splash guards and Wraparound bug shield planned, 6.99% Auto Equity Loan expected
sherwoodfor, http://www.ford-diesel.com/faq/1999faq/General-NVC.htm
djptsman, i was serialized 2 days before i got my build date, and the dealer was able to get the number as soon as it happened.
looks like y'all have the F-250SD, V-10's in 4x4 (just what I'm gonna get) and it appears the mileage is about 10-13 mpg with this engine. Any body have heavy trailer towing experience with these engines? I've heard they turn into real gas guzzlers and dogs when hooked to trailers.
I'm opting for the diesel if this is true.
Is this the same problem you both mention, or is mine a different problem? I am going to call the dealer Monday and have them check it out.
John