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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    Assemblers, inspectors and your dealer prep. employees are incompetent.
  • ilovecars1ilovecars1 Posts: 119
    Is toyota really becoming JUNK nowadays? I am really pissed off now. :mad:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    beautifully documented.
  • Your dealer will definitely have a PO# for the car you purchased. I'd call and DEMAND it. :)
  • Toyota gave me a 4cyl Camry to drive while my V6 XLE's trans/torque converter are being replaced. I haven't noticed this in the rental and I "drive" it. I've passed plenty of cars and gotten to cruising speed on the freeway with no problems. I'm actually surprised at the poop this little 4-banger has. Cruise control works fine too. I can't wait to get my XLE back though. It's quiet and fast. I'm use to driving cars with horsepower to spare and am impressed with the XLE's HP. Weird to get use to torque steer though on a FWD car when use to RWD.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,319
    The FWD shouldn't have much torque steer these days if they're engineered well. How much does it show?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • dougb10dougb10 Burlington, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 185
    My guess is that this is not an assembly line problem.
    The car could have been damaged in transit, and was repaired by the dealer....someone screwed up and put on the wrong bumper.
  • lahirilahiri Posts: 394
    Not a good deal. A friend of mine got 100% money back - his Corolla was 11000 miles old. This happened 4 years back.
  • lahirilahiri Posts: 394
    I didn't buy the extended warranty from HondaCare. I bought a 7 year/ 100,000 mile ($250 deductible) on my new CR-V from GEICO for just $2.50/ month for 7 years (total $210). If Toyota offers a replacement, take it - then buy a cheap warranty from GEICO :-D
  • lahirilahiri Posts: 394
    WOW!!! Great photo. I never look under the body or bumper. Time for me to wake up and take a look :(
  • ilovecars1ilovecars1 Posts: 119
    DAMON34 and others with the hesitation problems in cars, Could you please explain me when the first time you saw the hesitation problem? Was it the first day? Also, what kind of gas mileage you are getting? I need to make a decision very soon whether I let go my $500 deposit and not take the car. :mad:
  • lahirilahiri Posts: 394
    If you buy something else from the same dealer such as a Corolla or a RAV4, you should not lose your deposit.
  • ilovecars1ilovecars1 Posts: 119
    If I show them the problems that other people are having, they should give me the deposit back. Isn't that? Otherwise, I will try to do a credit card dispute. Let's see.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Specifically on the cruise control problem.....

    For the first 1K miles until broken in, I avoided even driving the car on interstates, taking one of our other cars instead. So once past the break in period, then started doing some interstate and 55MPH+ driving. First trip we took wife set the cruise control, and problem was immediately evident. Even on moderate interstate grades, the car will not hold the target speed with downshifting to 4th and sometimes to 3rd. When it downshifts to 3rd, the revs jump substantially. If you drive without cruise control and a soft gas pedal, you can easily avoid transmission shifts.

    I would suspect if you took the brand new vehicle for an interstate test drive and traffic wasn't packed so you could use the cruise, it would be immediately evident. It didn't show in my case since I waited post 1K break in period before driving over 50.
  • lahirilahiri Posts: 394
    I don't think they'll. All new models have teething problems and that's probably not reason enough. Dealer would insist that you buy something new from them to save your deposit. If you're very worried, you can consider close alternatives like Avalon. Avalon may not have the nice mpg rating of a 4 cyl Camry. However, Avalon has a strong engine and the base model doesn't cost that much more than a Camry.
  • ilovecars1ilovecars1 Posts: 119
    Thanks for the description. Do you have the hesitation problem as described by damon34?
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    A reporter seeks to interview current and former Texans with opinions about the recent Toyota recalls. Please reply to by Tuesday, August 8, 2006 with your daytime contact info, a description of your Texas connection and a few words about whether you think the Toyota recalls will affect the Toyota brand.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    It didn't show in my case since I waited post 1K break in period before driving over 50.

    This wasn't the best procedure to follow during breakin. Note that in your manual there is nothing there about 'babying' it until over 1000 mile. The only thing it does say is don't tow anything initially.

    Actually the best procedure during the breakin period is just to drive normally; city, highway, stop and go, 75 mph+, both with and without cruise. The babying procedure may have exacerbated your subsequent problems.
  • Hello:

    I believe there is a difference between cars "Made in America" (even if this is a transplant car) and those made 100% (or close to that; like 95% parts from Japan), then those in the states of the same model. All vehicles made in Japan will have a VIN# beginning with a "J" rather then a 1 or 2. I bought a 2007 Toyota Camry and it was made in Japan. I love mine. When the dealer did a search and brought up some of the "available" models in the area, I seen the VIN# listed on the options printout. I picked the one with the "J". That doesn't mean there won't be a bad one in the bunch, but look in Consumer Reports. Seems the majority of the most reliable cars are those made ENTIRELY (or a good percentage of the parts) from Japan. Good Luck!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The Break-in period instructions (p 286) actually states:

    Drive gently and avoid high speeds. (Bold in the manual)
    Your vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But following a few simple tips for the first 1600 km (1000 miles) can add to the future economy and long life of your vehicle:
    - Avoid full throttle accelerations when starting and driving
    - Avoid racing the engine
    - Try to avoid hard stops during the first 300km (200 miles)
    - Do not drive slowly with the manual transmission in a high gear
    - Do not drive for a long time at any single speed, either fast or slow
    - Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 miles)

    I am aware of many differing opinions from all the different to the best way to break in engines, transmissions, and brakes. I've personally always broken in all my new cars by driving easy (except one Honda back in 1975), and have had extremely reliable high mileage vehicles. They run the full gamut of 4 cylinders to 8 cylinders, 2 seaters to 8 seaters, manuals/automatics, sports/luxury/trucks/vans/compacts/SUV's/etc.

    The manual doesn't say anything that you can't baby the car initially, and I think anyone would be hard pressed to claim because we drove this in city traffic first 1k miles that it didn't break-in correctly. Again, the first line in manual w/Bold font......"Drive gently and avoid high speeds"
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    Something is very wrong with these images. A 4-cylinder Camry's exhaust is on the right hand side of the bumper. Surely, you should have noticed the bumper alignment and exhaust problem prior to delivery of your V6. Normally, the salesperson and the buyer conducts a walk-around inspection prior to delivery. Moreover, the dealer's PDI was obviously pretty much non-existent. I would be "all over" my salesperson on this one, but ultimately you share some responsibility for not noticing these problems at delivery. At least I know I visually scrutinize every new car I purchase before signing the final papers and driving off the lot.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    >>>I believe there is a difference between cars "Made in America" . . . and those made 100% (or close to that; like 95% parts from Japan), then those in the states of the same model.

    Have you looked at the certificate of origin glued on the window of each new Camry? If not, you're in for a surprise. Cars assembled in Japan come from 75% made-in-America parts(!)-- exactly the same percentage as in Camrys assembled in Kentucky.

    I suppose one can't rule out a difference in the quality of assembly, but the parts, they are the same.
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    Although the OP wasn't perfectly clear, I think the real implication was of quality of assembly. And, here he/she may have a very valid point. This has been an on-going argument for imports built here in the USA for some time. Is the build quality of a Georgetown-built Camry equal to that of a Japanese-built Camry? Toyota USA says "yes," and so do the dealers, but I really wonder.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    ......"Drive gently and avoid high speeds

    I guess it's a difference in interpretation. In the US now 70+ mph is the standard highway speed. Note that from prior models they dropped the recommendation not to go over 55 mph during breakin.

    I interpret the guidance from the manual as meaning don't race anybody off the line thereby over-revving the engine or, within the limits of safety, come to a screeching stop.

    Gentle but normal acceleration is the key, IMO. Consider though that if the vehicle is 'attempting' to learn the driving pattern of the new owner, and over the first 1000 miles one type of driving is done but then thereafter a different type of driving is done the AI systems can become skewed.

    I'd take the guidance from the manual to be drive in your normal way and let the systems become accustomed to your patterns.
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    Try driving 70+ in most of Illinois - of course, the Chicagoland area is another matter - and in most areas of Ohio and Pennsylvania, you will be paying serious speeding ticket fines. This is especially true in Ohio. Ohio state police monitor speeds on their interstates with great vigor.
  • flyingjflyingj Posts: 7
    I brought my 07 Camry back today and I am getting 100% refund. I will be getting a new Carolla soon.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    On most of the E Coast except in the heavily congested areas the 'normal' speed is 70-80. On I95 and I85, 85 mph is hardly unusual ( Jersey Tpke and south of Richmond ).
  • edsamedsam Posts: 14
    The dealer called this morning and promised a replacement bumper will be waiting for me on Wed (today is Mon). It took another Toyota dealer over a week to secure a replacement front bumper for my Highlander in June. Red non-SE V6's are not very common around here. Hmmm ...

    I'll update the forum again after the repair.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    Am I wrong that the Lexus ES350 engine and transmission are essentially identical to the Camry V6? If so, why don't I find complaints posted on CarSpace message boards about hesitation in the ES350?

    There is a board devoted to ES transmission problems. But the comments all refer back to earlier models. So far, new ES buyers seem to be very happy with their cars.

    What's going on here? I might jump on the "Lexus is made in Japan" bandwagon if I didn't recall reading some complaints about Camrys assembled in Japan. It's something else I think.
  • ilovecars1ilovecars1 Posts: 119
    could you please explain your problems?
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