Dodge Dakota - IV

bigal31

That good news,finally.How about the 4x4's mine has to go higher 4"-6" at least.Still waiting on a kit.
Allen-

bookitty

Allen, be careful how high you raise your truck. You could end up in Watertown. Sorry folks. New York State joke.

Bookitty

bookitty

Tim, my niece met me in Philadelphia today while we visited my Mom in the hospital. She raises llamas at her farm in MD. She also has exotic goats and sheep. She and her husband have "Goosedown Farm." Small world. If you ever want to exchange information, let me know and I will forward her email address. The llamas are really sweet until they decide to spit.

Bookitty

PS My email address is on my profile.

spike50

Getting ready to do 20-25 miles on Appalachian Trail - Carlisle, PA area with the Boy Scouts. Quad is great for this. Crew of 5 up front with equipment in bed. And in the end all of the smelly nasty stuff goes in the bed except for us. End up going back old logging roads sometimes so higher clearance and big tires make it easier. Only draw back is leaving a new truck sit in the woods for a weekend. At least its not hunting season.

andy_jordan

Towing a 3000lb trailer isn't going to be a problem for the 4.7 regardless of the rear end. Therefore it comes down to personal preference - 3.92 will give more zip off the line, 3.55 will give better fuel economy. The larger tires factor into it to some degree - but the benefit is felt equally on both rear ends - the 3.92 becomes close to a 3.55 with standard tires, but the 3.55 will become the equivalent of a 3.20 - 3.30 (I can't be bothered to do the math) with standard tires.

If fuel economy is the main driver then I would go with the 3.55.

ted61

Sorry, wasn't bragging about my gas mileage just wanted some of the future owners know
what to expect if they get a set up like I have.
That was with about 1000 lbs load.
In Cleveland, Ohio, rush hour traffic,especially in the winter time with a standard trans , the clutch is in more than it is out, and it does take it's toll on your left leg.

bpeebles

(spike50) Please reference page 8E-3 in BOB to read the following;
"The programmable indicator lamps for this model include the cruse-on indicator lamp, the overdrive-off indicator lamp, the transmission oil temp. warning lamp and the upshift-indicator lamp."

As for the DRL 'module' in the BOB, iowabigguy
is correct... the DRL system uses a simple relay 'module' to perform its function.

A quick synopsys of the wiring to the DRL 'module' in the BOB shows me that it simply sends power to the low-beams while the ignition is 'ON'. A fog-lamp 'disable' is included in the module. I could design one on a napkin with a pencil in about 3 minutes... ;-)

bpeebles

As many of you know, I was the first to report the 'white foam' buildup within the oil-fill tube of the 4.7L V8. DC has since issued a 'technical Service Bulletin' about this 'concern'

I, as many of us, have switched to using synthetic oil instead of the dino-oil. The build-up has all but gone away with the synth oil.

NEW PROBLEM:
I have found that the O-ring on my oil-fill cap has started to 'decompose' and become sticky. My oil-fill cap has become VERY difficult to remove.
Liberal amounts of silicone grease has been only a 'band-aid' and not a real fix. I suspect that the "white foam" (Which is really an oil-water emulsion that is very acidic) attacked the O-ring and caused this problem. My dealer has ordered a new cap (The o-ring is not available separately) under warrantee.

QUESTION:
HAS ANYONE ELSE ENCOUNTERED THIS PROBLEM?

themacguy

Yep. That emulsion you're referring to is H2S or hydrogen sulfide based. It stems from the sulfur in the base stocks of the petroleum based oils 'releasing' into the filler tube and foaming up. It definitely forms an acid when mixed with water - sulfuric in its nature. I was wondering why the #$&% cap was getting so hard to get off. Thanks.

By the way, nearly all refined products for your auto / truck are 'sour crude' not sweet or light crude based. These sour crudes - for which I get paid abour $5 - $7 per barrel LESS than the oil (futures) prices you see plastered all over the evening news - are EXTREMELY high in sulfur & H2S content. And that crap eats steel (especially stainless) and most plastics and rubber for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Should've figured it out before... <:-&

spike50

bpeebles - When the sun comes up, I'll check out the page you referenced. I think I read that the DRL module also reduces the light's output by 50%. So its a relay plus a resistor?

Both the parts and service dept at the dealer noted that they have never upgraded a Dodge system to have DRL's and don't think that they could order the "Canadian" module. They said that fleet orders for the state government (PA) do come in already equipped with DRL's (required).

I agree that the module design must be simple and the wiring schematics don't look complicated either if I had a source. Maybe a Canadian brother could get a price quote on the DRL module and the associated jack and post it here. I might just give it up if its too high priced.

newquad

I just purchased the fender flares for my white Quad 4X2. Any tips or things to be careful of when installing them?? How long does it take usually to install? Thanks.

themacguy

I'm assuming you have the 8" or wider wheels - the stock 7's look pretty shabby with the flairs. The only caveat is 'trial & error' installing. Try to get the flairs lined up before you peel the tape off. DON'T put them on & take them off if you can help it or you'll definitely leave scratches above the wheel well arches if you decide you don't like them. They are quite easy to install.

themacguy

flares, not flairs. Oh, whatever: so byte me.

96g11

Gotta see web site, www.coltron.com/renpia/Dakotapage.html
hope this is right. really cool pictures of a totally tricked out 4x4 with 5 1/2 inch lift and some great links. Allen needs to see this one. just a little over done for me but has some great ideas.

wbourne

I had this problem with the original factory fill.
Since I've been changing oil myself, the problem has not reoccurred.

newquad

Thanks themacguy for the info. My truck has the Tire and Handling package, so the wheels are wider than the fender wells right now. Tired of the dirt flying onto the body of the truck. Thanks for the help.

bigal31

Thanks for the link.You are correct it's up my alley alright.Believe it or not I've been in contact with him.That truck has a 5 1/2" lift from "Tuff Country".I talked with them too they have a Quad prototype(spelling?)but are having problems with our new rack-in-pinion steering(that is the trouble with buying a truck that drives like a town car)so I'm still waiting patiently.
Allen-

q8740

What kind of mileage are people getting with the R/T

towcrazy2

Trivial, but interesting...

I've checked the overhead thermometer readout in my Quad against that in my '95 Ram several times, under all conditions, in and out of the sun. The Quad consistently reads 3 degrees lower than the Ram.

I suspect this has something to do with location of the temperature sensor... Though I prefer to feel, simply, that the Quad is a cooler truck!

towcrazy2

Q:
Can't help you on the R/T mileage. But for what it's worth, my QC with 5.9 got 14.3 mpg at last fill-up (1,011 miles on clock).

Since the R/T is quite a bit lighter and a 2WD, I suspect that it would get something around 15+- mpg.

myersed

I caught you note as I attempted to catch up with 2 months of messages- What a task!!!

I noticed the ratcheting sound every morning since the second day I purchased the truck in December. Initially it concerned me but I decided not to react, thinking it related to the design of the unit. Typically I hear it when the window is down. At home, it is easy for me to hear as the sound bounces off the garage walls (mentioned by another member as well).

I now have almost 10,000 miles on the truck and the tranny operates flawlessly so, I will just monitor the forum.

BTW- I continue to track and plot my fuel economy, since purchase. My overall average MPG (over the 9700 miles)is at 17.6 and continues to rise due to the fact that I currently average 18 plus. (3:55 axle and 255 Tires)

njt15

I just received my special order kit Friday and installed it yesterday. They tell me that I have the first Flowmaster Cat-back kit for the 2000 Dakota. I installed it yesterday and it sounds great. There is a little rumble below 2000 rpm and an ample amount of rumble from 2001 - 5000 rpm; (read moderate to hard acceleration). It has a nice deep mellow rumble. The Flowmaster technology in the muffler really works in terms of keeping the sound outside of the truck and keeping the resonance to a minimum. The rumble is only slightly detectable at highway speeds as when it is in fifth gear, the rpm are in the low 2000's.

I will have to report back on the mpg and performance. With the K & N filter, Mobil 1& Flowmaster, I believe that I have more H.P. and torque, probably about 15 +/- 5? Since I drive it every day it is hard to tell. My dad drove it when it was brand new and then again yesterday; he seemed to feel a great deal more power. It sure sound great, though. Hopefully I'll see it in MPG! That is of course a function of how far I push down on my right foot

yooper_romad

Have a Forrest Green Dakota Quad Cab Sport 4X4, 4.7, 5spd, 3.92 limited slip, 4w antilock, tow package, skidplates, Tire and handling package, cruise & tilt, power window & locks, keyless entry, 6x9 power mirrors, AM/FM/Cassette/CD and engine block heater. Ordered it mid Jan and picked it up March 14. Bought it through Benny Boyd in Lampasas, worked with Pam and Brigitte in Internet, Fleet and Commercial sales. The best time I ever had buying a car! No hassles or mind games. Just great service. 1% over dealer cost and then the $500 Farm Beuro discount.
This is the second Dakota, in 90 bought a V-6 Club Cab w/5spd and AM/FM Cassette, limited slip and not much else. Still have it and still racking up the miles. It has served us well with only a few minor problems. The worst was the transmission going out as we were driving down Autoban 3 heading home from Frankfurt. Chrysler Europe rep had a new one overnight UPSed to the Chrysler garage in Grafenwhor, all under the 70,000 mi powertrain warranty. I do all my own maintenance and with 180,000 mi of changing oil and filters at 4,000 mi we still are not using any oil.
Two reasons for new Dakota, they are ages 17 and 13 and not getting any smaller. Looked at the Durango, nice. But pricey and would have to put the cattle dogs inside with the people(hair everywhere). The Quad Cab fits our lifestyle much better. So far have added a Diamond liner spray on over the rail liner, an ARE CX cap (nice cap!)and just put in a new CB. Things to come; Flowmaster muffler w/dual tail pipes exiting in the stock location, switching all fluids to synthetics, grill guard and winch, safari rack for the cap and for the wife a Shaker hood from Pro Finish Pro Glass (available for the 4.7 this fall).
So far no problems in the 6800 miles we have put on it. Everything is nice and tight. Ride is great and the stereo is kicka__. Four doors for the youngins and guys at work. Room for the dogs and hauling capacity for my '73 'cuda. Fixin to take a long trip in July and looking forward to it. So far averaging 16+ mpg, mostly short trips. 14-15 around town with my heavy foot, haven't had an Amurican V-8 in a truck for a while. Been watching for the yellow gunk in the filler neck but none so far. Thanks for putting up with this long post, just enthusiastic about my truck.

bookitty

NJ, does your flowmaster package have single or dual exhaust outlets? Can you supply the kit number? How simple or complicated was the installation? Would really appreciate some input.
Thanks.

Bookitty

q8740

I just picked up my new R/T club cab and I want to put a bed liner in which one would be the best, spray on or plastic drop in type...?


Thanks

Scott

themacguy

ed - glad you're back - you were dissed a lot - oops! - missed a lot... ;-)

yooper - Pam & Brigitte are GREAT to deal with! Glad you chose em.

q8740 - I bought the factory bed liner (drop-in). But only go this route if you can get a discount (mine was just $200 installed by selling dealer), like the 'quick' solution and need to slide furniture or washer & dryer combos a bunch. The sprayed-ins look better and work well for most everything else, but are a bit pricier and seem to require sanding or etching the bed to install.

towcrazy2

Like Boo, I'm also interested in the possibility of a Flowmaster install... From the information supplied at their site, because I haul a trailer occasionally, it looks as though the single outlet (stock position) is the route I should take.

Anxious to hear about your installation, pricing, etc.!

96g11

I have had a flowmaster muffler on my quad since the first 50 miles. If you want to go the really cheap rout try this. Just pick up an offset in/out 2 1/2 inch id flowmaster muffler. Mine cost $67.00. add (1) 10 inch 2 1/2 inch id to 2 1/2 inch od extension. 1 heavy duty muffler clamp. Simply cut out the old muffler and install the flowmaster in it's place under the existing heat shield. Took me about 45 mins to complete and MAN does it sound great. I plan to add a black crinkle finish dual "monza" tip soon with a resonator just to take the edge off moderate excelleration. I know I sound cheap but I don't really want duals out the back and decided to use the money saved for other "toys" for the quad. By the way, I sold the stock muffler (it's stainless steel by the way) for $45 and offset the cost of the flowmaster. Wow, I really am cheap!

bookitty

96, you're not cheap, just smart. Great moves.

Bookitty

bpeebles

(96g11) I too have been thinking of just replacing the muffler on my rig. I will hold on the the removed one (Stainless steel) because I KNOW that a regular muffler only lasts about 3-5 years in Vermont.... I may be needing it again later.

Are you saying that the original muffler is 'one peice' with the piping and HAS to be cut out?

Does Flowmaster offer any stainless mufflers that may provide a longer life in cold wetather/ short trips?