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Dodge Dakota - IV

1468910

Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) Nothing special is needed on the Dakota to get DRLs. It is PROGRAMMABLE! According to the shop manual, there are several "programmable" features within the Dakota computer system. These include enabling the UPSHIFT LIGHT and the DRLs.

    Your dealer can enable theses features using the shop computer that communicates with the Dakota.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Hate to disagree with you but the shop manual states "The Daytime Running Lights (Headlamps) System is installed on vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada only. A separate module, mounted on the cowl, controls the DRL." Wiring diagrams are on pages 8W-50-6, 7 & 8. If the connector is present all it may take is plugging in the DRL module. Connector and module are behind left headlamp and battery. Wife has my truck so I can't verify if the connector is present on mine. Rick
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Keep forgetting that I should look in the "Big Orange Book" (BOB) first. One can see the placement of the DRL Module on page 8L-18. Just looked at that spot in the Quad and there doesn't appear to be an unused wire and jack for a DRLM. If the dealer is open today, I'll get their spin on retrofitting this into the system (splicing wires) and that all important cost.

    bpeebles - When you mentioned that the dealer could re-program things such as the "Up-Shift" light, I can't readily find a section on re-programming in the BOB. At present, the "Up-Shift" light appears to be either disabled or non-existent. Upon engine start-up, no arrow light is tested as are all of the other system lights.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    The upshift light only applies to the wimpy, er I mean lower torque motors, the 4.7 does not have one per "Orange Book" Rick
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Posts: 765
    This is a repost (with one typo corrected) from the latest quad cab topic for anyone who doesn't populate both Dakota topics:

    Macguy (Jack), Bonnie and I had a very positive
    e-mail conversation yesterday, we should see some
    progress this week. One of the reasons for the
    delay is that Edmunds are trying to get the brand
    manager or equivalent to become involved.

    Let me say that again. Edmunds are trying to get
    the DC Dakota brand manager, or an equivalent
    person to be a part of the owners' forum. WOW!!!!

    I don't know what progress has been made so far,
    but if this isn't a sign of the commitment that
    Edmunds has then I don't know what is.

    So now we are close to getting our own club, and
    we are close to having a voice that will really be
    heard where it matters. This is our opportunity, I
    am sure that the oft referred to respect and
    helpful attitude taken by posters has helped our
    cause, but there are other views out there that
    need to be heard.

    This is a call to all the lurkers - come post on
    these boards, you know from reading that you will
    get a great welcome, and if you haven't yet signed
    up to Edmunds then that will help their statistics
    - so come on in guys and gals - the water's
    lovely!!
  • astaasta Posts: 122
    Hey guys - looks like I'm finally going to make a decision regarding this nearly one year pursuit of a new truck. And the winner is: The Quad Cab! Don't ask how I finally came to this decision after I was mere minutes away from putting down a deposit on a Supercrew. Call it a gut feeling that the Dak is the truck for me. Or maybe I just wanna sample all of America's Big 3. First car was Ford Mustang, next cars were from GM, and now good old Chrsyler, with a Daimler in front of it. 2 Queries to all Dak owners out there: 1) What's the latest info on ordering from the factory. I want to place an order this week and I'm wondering if I'll get a 2000 or a 2001 model year truck. Should I wait another month or so for the 2001 model year to see if any adds are made to the model line?? Which brings me to my next question: really want a sunroof in this puppy. Has anybody cut one into their quad cab yet? Can you still put racks on the roof if you cut in a sunroof. How about ballpark price - the dealer I probably will order with says his dealership does it for 2K! They do good work he said, but ouch, that's way too much. thanks for any info in advance.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Thank you for your (collective) efforts in bringing forth this most needed group. You guys are doing all the work, and I for one appreciate it.

    Bookitty
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Asta, at this point in time it is too late to order a 2000 Dakota Quad (or anything). There are some available either at dealerships or units that dealers have on order that have not as yet shipped. I took my Quad in for service today (failed air bag module) and saw some Quads in their inventory. The dealership is in Eastern PA. If you are interested, email me (see my profile) and I'll let you know with whom to speak and furnish a telephone number.

    Bookitty
  • ted61ted61 Posts: 6
    4.7,4x4,auto,3.5,lsd,tow pkg,hvy duty and power.
    Just put on 4,000 miles driving thru N.M, and Colo.on vacation. 15-19 mpg, up to 75mph.
    Handles and runs as good as any truck i've ever ridden in. I can see a stick shift for off the road, or as a work truck used extensively for towing, but for day to day driving as a family vehicle, auto and cruise are for me. Anybody have any ideas as to where I can buy some leather seat covers? Grand children and ice cream and cloth seats makes for a grumpy grandpa, plus the feel of leather seems more comfortable to me.
  • 2drive2drive Posts: 90
    ted61:
    I have a similarly equipped Dakota, except for a 5-speed. Averaged 20 mpg on a 500 mile trip last weekend, 70 mph cruising. I agree about cruise, wouldn't be without it, but not so about an auto transmission. The availability of a 5-speed with the Dakota was the decision maker for me. Bought my last AT 30 years ago, and since then I'd never go back, unless someday, it comes to no choices!! It's something intangible, about "driving" the vehicle, sort of like the appeal of a sports car. But if one doesn't "feel" it, I agree, it's certainly not the way to go.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    Hey guys, help answer asta's questions ASAP - I know from his personal e:mails that he really, really agonized over his decision. I can't remember the website one of you posted on the sunroofs - I believe they had slider rear windows available as well - could someone help point him in the right direction. I believe they were about $500 raw cost + a special trim piece for the 'rippled' top strengtheners on larger roof vehicles like the Quad. I decided against the roof for 'quiet' reasons, but if I remember correctly asta is in LA or on the West Coast somewhere and those guys have to have more sun in their cabins. ;-)

    Now, if we can only save balser, etc.
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Posts: 215
    There is a roof rack for the QC in the Mopar accessory catalogue. Don't know if it would work with a sunroof, however.

    For what it's worth, I called Thule a while back and they said accessories for the Mopar rack were being looked into.
  • tpmillertpmiller Posts: 45
    I can't find that url either but I went there and they are supposedly sending me a brochure. I'm interested in the electric rear window slider, which Dodge should add as an accessory on the '01's. Will post as soon as receive.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Although I saw one in a Quad at the Harrisburg, PA Auto Show from a local dealer my dealer said its a "no-no". Said that in class, the Dakota has reinforcement steel in the roof and one shouldn't mess with it. I have no personal knowledge just second hand.
  • astaasta Posts: 122
    Hey Macguy and all - thanks for the quick replies. Macguy definitely has some juice on this board! Posters respond when he sends out an SOS for info - i love it. wish real life (i.e. bosses, managers, clients) worked as quickly and efficiently. as to the sunroof, I spoke to my dealer about it and there is a company in Santa Ana, CA (not that far from me) which is the largest sunroof installer in the country - they are called ASC. anyway, my dealer said the same thing as spike50's guy - it is a no-no because of the reinforced steel across the roof (hence, the bowed look of at the top of the cab, I assume) Rear window slider with an electric switch upfront is a 2nd option, although not as desirable as the sunroof - you're right macguy - it does get hot in LA! But we actually need those roof hatches to mount our GAM systems and take out anybody who may be coming at us from above! hah! this place really is a war zone!

    but, seriously, my dealer here in so cal said 2001 ordering should begin end of june, early july - no more 2000 orders being taken so as to fill back-up production, then begin the next model year line. He told me that he thinks there might be a sllight, and I emphasize, slight change to the look of the Dakota grill for 2001. Has anyone else heard this? Either way, I'm still stoked to order mine in a month or so - just waiting to see if they add any new colors to the 2001 line.

    I'll keep y'all posted on my progress now that I've stopped spending so much time on the supercrew board! :)
  • tswittetswitte Posts: 4
    Been lurking for several weeks and want to thank so many of you for detailed and honest info that is helping me greatly with my QC purchase decisions. Planning to buy 2000 or 2001, 4.7, auto, 4wd, plus options.

    Friends who've driven trucks forever have suggested that I'd never regret ordering the 3.92 rear end ratio in the long run for the pulling power, accelleration, etc... It also seems to compensate for the larger tires on the 4wd.

    However, I'm also watching gas prices in Chicago creep up over $2/gallon. And, the 3.55 rear ratio seems to be the only truck that area dealers have on the lot.

    Potential uses for my truck:
    Mostly - light duty on regular days. Also towing #3000 boat/trailer on weekends (300 miles, 10-15 x per year)

    I'd welcome any comments and advice. thanks.
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Posts: 215
    For what it's worth, I'm going with the 3.55s, because of the mileage. I know it probably won't make much of a difference, but I'm looking for every bit I can get (also why I'm going for 4x2). I will be towing pop-up, but it's small (about 1,800 pounds wet), and I won't be doing it too often (which is too bad in itself).

    With a 3,000 pound trailer it might be a bit different, although it's hard for me to believe that you'd have any serious problems given that your getting the 4.7.

    However, others on the board have a lot more experience than I do, which is to say they've actually driven the darn thing, so see what they say.
  • tpmillertpmiller Posts: 45
    I struggled with that decision also, occasionally haul llamas in a small 2 horse trailer. Might max out at 3.5k hauling a mule or horse. After discussions with dealers and friends who tow, opted for the 3.55. All my the towing will be local. I'll let you know if I did the right thing within the next couple months.
  • 96g1196g11 Posts: 88
    My wife was shoping at Target today and found a toy dakota quad cab. This thing is really cool! It came in a pack of three trucks, a jeep and a durango are included. The three trucks are 1/64 scale and are jacked up with big tires and really neat off road equipment. The manufacturer is Funline merchandise Co. Inc.
    Monrovia, Ca 91016
    and the item number is 9338.
    The one I found is a blue sport so out will come the airbrush to paint it white to match mine.
    The really cool trick is if you pull back on these trucks they take off and even do wheelies.!! My 5 year old and I have been racing all day! :')
  • 96g1196g11 Posts: 88
    Fabtech motorsports now offers a 3 1/2 lift kit for the 2wd quad cab dakota! The kit includes upper control arms new coil springs and shocks with add a leafs and new shocks in the rear. I did not get a price yet. The only real drawback is that the factory wheels cannot be used as 3 3/4 inch backspacing of the wheel is required.
  • bigal31bigal31 Posts: 189
    That good news,finally.How about the 4x4's mine has to go higher 4"-6" at least.Still waiting on a kit.
    Allen-
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Allen, be careful how high you raise your truck. You could end up in Watertown. Sorry folks. New York State joke.

    Bookitty
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Tim, my niece met me in Philadelphia today while we visited my Mom in the hospital. She raises llamas at her farm in MD. She also has exotic goats and sheep. She and her husband have "Goosedown Farm." Small world. If you ever want to exchange information, let me know and I will forward her email address. The llamas are really sweet until they decide to spit.

    Bookitty

    PS My email address is on my profile.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Getting ready to do 20-25 miles on Appalachian Trail - Carlisle, PA area with the Boy Scouts. Quad is great for this. Crew of 5 up front with equipment in bed. And in the end all of the smelly nasty stuff goes in the bed except for us. End up going back old logging roads sometimes so higher clearance and big tires make it easier. Only draw back is leaving a new truck sit in the woods for a weekend. At least its not hunting season.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Posts: 765
    Towing a 3000lb trailer isn't going to be a problem for the 4.7 regardless of the rear end. Therefore it comes down to personal preference - 3.92 will give more zip off the line, 3.55 will give better fuel economy. The larger tires factor into it to some degree - but the benefit is felt equally on both rear ends - the 3.92 becomes close to a 3.55 with standard tires, but the 3.55 will become the equivalent of a 3.20 - 3.30 (I can't be bothered to do the math) with standard tires.

    If fuel economy is the main driver then I would go with the 3.55.
  • ted61ted61 Posts: 6
    Sorry, wasn't bragging about my gas mileage just wanted some of the future owners know
    what to expect if they get a set up like I have.
    That was with about 1000 lbs load.
    In Cleveland, Ohio, rush hour traffic,especially in the winter time with a standard trans , the clutch is in more than it is out, and it does take it's toll on your left leg.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) Please reference page 8E-3 in BOB to read the following;
    "The programmable indicator lamps for this model include the cruse-on indicator lamp, the overdrive-off indicator lamp, the transmission oil temp. warning lamp and the upshift-indicator lamp."

    As for the DRL 'module' in the BOB, iowabigguy
    is correct... the DRL system uses a simple relay 'module' to perform its function.

    A quick synopsys of the wiring to the DRL 'module' in the BOB shows me that it simply sends power to the low-beams while the ignition is 'ON'. A fog-lamp 'disable' is included in the module. I could design one on a napkin with a pencil in about 3 minutes... ;-)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    As many of you know, I was the first to report the 'white foam' buildup within the oil-fill tube of the 4.7L V8. DC has since issued a 'technical Service Bulletin' about this 'concern'

    I, as many of us, have switched to using synthetic oil instead of the dino-oil. The build-up has all but gone away with the synth oil.

    NEW PROBLEM:
    I have found that the O-ring on my oil-fill cap has started to 'decompose' and become sticky. My oil-fill cap has become VERY difficult to remove.
    Liberal amounts of silicone grease has been only a 'band-aid' and not a real fix. I suspect that the "white foam" (Which is really an oil-water emulsion that is very acidic) attacked the O-ring and caused this problem. My dealer has ordered a new cap (The o-ring is not available separately) under warrantee.

    QUESTION:
    HAS ANYONE ELSE ENCOUNTERED THIS PROBLEM?
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    Yep. That emulsion you're referring to is H2S or hydrogen sulfide based. It stems from the sulfur in the base stocks of the petroleum based oils 'releasing' into the filler tube and foaming up. It definitely forms an acid when mixed with water - sulfuric in its nature. I was wondering why the #$&% cap was getting so hard to get off. Thanks.

    By the way, nearly all refined products for your auto / truck are 'sour crude' not sweet or light crude based. These sour crudes - for which I get paid abour $5 - $7 per barrel LESS than the oil (futures) prices you see plastered all over the evening news - are EXTREMELY high in sulfur & H2S content. And that crap eats steel (especially stainless) and most plastics and rubber for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Should've figured it out before... <:-&
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    bpeebles - When the sun comes up, I'll check out the page you referenced. I think I read that the DRL module also reduces the light's output by 50%. So its a relay plus a resistor?

    Both the parts and service dept at the dealer noted that they have never upgraded a Dodge system to have DRL's and don't think that they could order the "Canadian" module. They said that fleet orders for the state government (PA) do come in already equipped with DRL's (required).

    I agree that the module design must be simple and the wiring schematics don't look complicated either if I had a source. Maybe a Canadian brother could get a price quote on the DRL module and the associated jack and post it here. I might just give it up if its too high priced.
  • newquadnewquad Posts: 33
    I just purchased the fender flares for my white Quad 4X2. Any tips or things to be careful of when installing them?? How long does it take usually to install? Thanks.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    I'm assuming you have the 8" or wider wheels - the stock 7's look pretty shabby with the flairs. The only caveat is 'trial & error' installing. Try to get the flairs lined up before you peel the tape off. DON'T put them on & take them off if you can help it or you'll definitely leave scratches above the wheel well arches if you decide you don't like them. They are quite easy to install.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    flares, not flairs. Oh, whatever: so byte me.
  • 96g1196g11 Posts: 88
    Gotta see web site, www.coltron.com/renpia/Dakotapage.html
    hope this is right. really cool pictures of a totally tricked out 4x4 with 5 1/2 inch lift and some great links. Allen needs to see this one. just a little over done for me but has some great ideas.
  • wbournewbourne Posts: 2
    I had this problem with the original factory fill.
    Since I've been changing oil myself, the problem has not reoccurred.
  • newquadnewquad Posts: 33
    Thanks themacguy for the info. My truck has the Tire and Handling package, so the wheels are wider than the fender wells right now. Tired of the dirt flying onto the body of the truck. Thanks for the help.
  • bigal31bigal31 Posts: 189
    Thanks for the link.You are correct it's up my alley alright.Believe it or not I've been in contact with him.That truck has a 5 1/2" lift from "Tuff Country".I talked with them too they have a Quad prototype(spelling?)but are having problems with our new rack-in-pinion steering(that is the trouble with buying a truck that drives like a town car)so I'm still waiting patiently.
    Allen-
  • q8740q8740 Posts: 12
    What kind of mileage are people getting with the R/T
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Posts: 337
    Trivial, but interesting...

    I've checked the overhead thermometer readout in my Quad against that in my '95 Ram several times, under all conditions, in and out of the sun. The Quad consistently reads 3 degrees lower than the Ram.

    I suspect this has something to do with location of the temperature sensor... Though I prefer to feel, simply, that the Quad is a cooler truck!
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Posts: 337
    Q:
    Can't help you on the R/T mileage. But for what it's worth, my QC with 5.9 got 14.3 mpg at last fill-up (1,011 miles on clock).

    Since the R/T is quite a bit lighter and a 2WD, I suspect that it would get something around 15+- mpg.
  • myersedmyersed Posts: 102
    I caught you note as I attempted to catch up with 2 months of messages- What a task!!!

    I noticed the ratcheting sound every morning since the second day I purchased the truck in December. Initially it concerned me but I decided not to react, thinking it related to the design of the unit. Typically I hear it when the window is down. At home, it is easy for me to hear as the sound bounces off the garage walls (mentioned by another member as well).

    I now have almost 10,000 miles on the truck and the tranny operates flawlessly so, I will just monitor the forum.

    BTW- I continue to track and plot my fuel economy, since purchase. My overall average MPG (over the 9700 miles)is at 17.6 and continues to rise due to the fact that I currently average 18 plus. (3:55 axle and 255 Tires)
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    I just received my special order kit Friday and installed it yesterday. They tell me that I have the first Flowmaster Cat-back kit for the 2000 Dakota. I installed it yesterday and it sounds great. There is a little rumble below 2000 rpm and an ample amount of rumble from 2001 - 5000 rpm; (read moderate to hard acceleration). It has a nice deep mellow rumble. The Flowmaster technology in the muffler really works in terms of keeping the sound outside of the truck and keeping the resonance to a minimum. The rumble is only slightly detectable at highway speeds as when it is in fifth gear, the rpm are in the low 2000's.

    I will have to report back on the mpg and performance. With the K & N filter, Mobil 1& Flowmaster, I believe that I have more H.P. and torque, probably about 15 +/- 5? Since I drive it every day it is hard to tell. My dad drove it when it was brand new and then again yesterday; he seemed to feel a great deal more power. It sure sound great, though. Hopefully I'll see it in MPG! That is of course a function of how far I push down on my right foot :)
  • Have a Forrest Green Dakota Quad Cab Sport 4X4, 4.7, 5spd, 3.92 limited slip, 4w antilock, tow package, skidplates, Tire and handling package, cruise & tilt, power window & locks, keyless entry, 6x9 power mirrors, AM/FM/Cassette/CD and engine block heater. Ordered it mid Jan and picked it up March 14. Bought it through Benny Boyd in Lampasas, worked with Pam and Brigitte in Internet, Fleet and Commercial sales. The best time I ever had buying a car! No hassles or mind games. Just great service. 1% over dealer cost and then the $500 Farm Beuro discount.
    This is the second Dakota, in 90 bought a V-6 Club Cab w/5spd and AM/FM Cassette, limited slip and not much else. Still have it and still racking up the miles. It has served us well with only a few minor problems. The worst was the transmission going out as we were driving down Autoban 3 heading home from Frankfurt. Chrysler Europe rep had a new one overnight UPSed to the Chrysler garage in Grafenwhor, all under the 70,000 mi powertrain warranty. I do all my own maintenance and with 180,000 mi of changing oil and filters at 4,000 mi we still are not using any oil.
    Two reasons for new Dakota, they are ages 17 and 13 and not getting any smaller. Looked at the Durango, nice. But pricey and would have to put the cattle dogs inside with the people(hair everywhere). The Quad Cab fits our lifestyle much better. So far have added a Diamond liner spray on over the rail liner, an ARE CX cap (nice cap!)and just put in a new CB. Things to come; Flowmaster muffler w/dual tail pipes exiting in the stock location, switching all fluids to synthetics, grill guard and winch, safari rack for the cap and for the wife a Shaker hood from Pro Finish Pro Glass (available for the 4.7 this fall).
    So far no problems in the 6800 miles we have put on it. Everything is nice and tight. Ride is great and the stereo is kicka__. Four doors for the youngins and guys at work. Room for the dogs and hauling capacity for my '73 'cuda. Fixin to take a long trip in July and looking forward to it. So far averaging 16+ mpg, mostly short trips. 14-15 around town with my heavy foot, haven't had an Amurican V-8 in a truck for a while. Been watching for the yellow gunk in the filler neck but none so far. Thanks for putting up with this long post, just enthusiastic about my truck.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    NJ, does your flowmaster package have single or dual exhaust outlets? Can you supply the kit number? How simple or complicated was the installation? Would really appreciate some input.
    Thanks.

    Bookitty
  • q8740q8740 Posts: 12
    I just picked up my new R/T club cab and I want to put a bed liner in which one would be the best, spray on or plastic drop in type...?


    Thanks

    Scott
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    ed - glad you're back - you were dissed a lot - oops! - missed a lot... ;-)

    yooper - Pam & Brigitte are GREAT to deal with! Glad you chose em.

    q8740 - I bought the factory bed liner (drop-in). But only go this route if you can get a discount (mine was just $200 installed by selling dealer), like the 'quick' solution and need to slide furniture or washer & dryer combos a bunch. The sprayed-ins look better and work well for most everything else, but are a bit pricier and seem to require sanding or etching the bed to install.
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Posts: 337
    Like Boo, I'm also interested in the possibility of a Flowmaster install... From the information supplied at their site, because I haul a trailer occasionally, it looks as though the single outlet (stock position) is the route I should take.

    Anxious to hear about your installation, pricing, etc.!
  • 96g1196g11 Posts: 88
    I have had a flowmaster muffler on my quad since the first 50 miles. If you want to go the really cheap rout try this. Just pick up an offset in/out 2 1/2 inch id flowmaster muffler. Mine cost $67.00. add (1) 10 inch 2 1/2 inch id to 2 1/2 inch od extension. 1 heavy duty muffler clamp. Simply cut out the old muffler and install the flowmaster in it's place under the existing heat shield. Took me about 45 mins to complete and MAN does it sound great. I plan to add a black crinkle finish dual "monza" tip soon with a resonator just to take the edge off moderate excelleration. I know I sound cheap but I don't really want duals out the back and decided to use the money saved for other "toys" for the quad. By the way, I sold the stock muffler (it's stainless steel by the way) for $45 and offset the cost of the flowmaster. Wow, I really am cheap!
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    96, you're not cheap, just smart. Great moves.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (96g11) I too have been thinking of just replacing the muffler on my rig. I will hold on the the removed one (Stainless steel) because I KNOW that a regular muffler only lasts about 3-5 years in Vermont.... I may be needing it again later.

    Are you saying that the original muffler is 'one peice' with the piping and HAS to be cut out?

    Does Flowmaster offer any stainless mufflers that may provide a longer life in cold wetather/ short trips?
This discussion has been closed.