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Comments
When I picked it up this evening and drove home it was still vibrating at around 50 mph, not quite as bad but still noticeable. I'm trying to figure out what to do next. Do I insist that they change the tires to another brand of tire (I've read that people have had lots of problems with the Bridgestone Dueler) or do I ask them to change it for another car?
The other thing is that when I drove it home tonight the TPMS light was on all the way home. So, when I got back I looked at the manual and it says that indicates a problem with the Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Could that be related to this problem? In any case, it does not inspire confidence in the dealer's service that they didn't catch this problem before sending me home with it.
Information or advice anyone? Thanks.
As to the continuing vibration, I suspect that one or more wheels is out of balance. I suggest having the dealer perform a road force balance on all 4 wheels. (The "road force" component is very important.) There's an excellent chance that this will solve the problem. If not, see if they'll do a 4-wheel alignment.
FWIW, I have a 2007 Limited AWD with the same tires and it's absolutely without vibration at any speed. I'm confident that yours will be made the same way. Good luck - please keep us posted.
- Mike
Suggest you check your tire pressure first (digital pressures readers are under $10 if you don't have one but a mechanical one will suffice). Set the tires cold to 30lbs as the sticker on your drivers side door post says and if no joy...back to the dealer. Just mho
Good luck
Jeff
Thanks. My wife and I took the car back this morning and met with the head of service. They took us a lot more seriously after my wife made a few phone calls to the corporate offices for Hyundai and the dealership.
We took him for a ride in the car and he immediately noticed the vibration. They took the car in and did exactly what you suggested - a road force balance on all 4 wheels. They found two "defective" tires. Today they swapped these out with tires/wheels from another new vehicle and it will be ready to pick up tomorrow. The service guy said he test drove it and the difference was dramatic. So, that appears to have been the problem.
My brother-in-law who owns a dealership told me that the problem was likely "flat-spotting". I live in Florida and when a vehicle sits on the lot for an extended period of time (especially in hot weather) the tires can develop flat spots. The date of manufacture on this SF was June and I purchased at the end of November - so it could have been sitting around for months.
You're also right about the TPMS light. The tech who did the initial work did not reset the system.
The lesson I've learned is (1) look at the door jamb date of manufacture and (2) test drive the exact vehicle you intend to purchase prior to closing the deal - we drove others and then picked this one for the trim, color and features.
Thanks for the help!
- Mike
The vibration problem appears to be fixed. The dealer did a road force balance on all 4 tires (as you suggested) - two were found to be defective and were replaced. I had a chance to get it out this weekend for a few highway miles and it was very smooth. My wife and I are very relieved that it was nothing more serious.
We're very pleased with the car otherwise. Even the gas mileage hasn't been too bad considering how new the vehicle is and that it hasn't really been broken in yet - 23 mpg (mixed city and highway driving).
That leads me to another question: What is the appropriate break-in routine for this car? I know that in the manual it mentions something like not going over 60 mph for the first 1200 miles! That would be pretty difficult to do on the highway when the speed limit is 75 and most people are going even faster.
Today I tried to keep it under 65 and that was manageable. Right now I'm up to 400 miles. When is it okay to begin to drive as you normally would? What about changing the oil soon? I've read online the theory that early on a new engine may shed small metal fragments as it breaks in and that doing the first 1 or 2 oil changes sooner may help protect it in the long run. Any truth to this?
Cheers,
Ken
My 2007 SF SE FWD is about 2 months old (I posted a bit about my indecision in what kind of car to buy on this forum) - I've been happy with it so far, but this morning I noticed a pretty loud chirping noise when I was stopped at a light. At first I thought it was the car next to me, and then realized it was me!
Does anyone know what this might be? It's a disappointment seeing as the car is so new.
Thanks,
-Sarah
I had a similar noise on another vehicle (not a Santa Fe)which turned out to be a small leak on the water pump that dripped on to the serpentine belt /pulley which caused the characteristic "chirping" when the engine is idling. If you accelerate , you can qalso hear it squeal as the belt slips.
It may also be just a loose or slipping belt, a bad pulley bearing, or the automatic radiator fan blades hitting something when they are turning.
If it was just water or ice that caused it, then it will go away when the engine is warm. If it continues get it checked out.
Fortunately, Hyundai does not require a formal break-in process. The info on page 1-3 of the owner's manual is "recommendations", not requirements. Having said that, I've always felt it best to follow them as best I could in order to give myself the best shot at no problems down the road, especially:
Don't exceed 55 MPH. This is clearly a tough one. The risk here isn't so much the engine as it is the transmission and differential gears. Keeping the speed down until they wear in reduces the chances of noisy ("whiney") gears down the road.
Keep RPMs under 4000. This one's pretty easy.
Accelerate and brake moderately. Another easy one.
Vary engine speed frequently. This allows the piston rings to seat properly without scoring cylinder walls.
As for oil changes, I suggest just checking it regularly (at every gas fill-up) at first. If you're not burning any oil, I don't see a reason to change it early (before 7500 miles under normal driving conditions, 3000 under "severe" conditions). I consider most of my driving to be under "normal" conditions and did my first oil change at 3750 miles.
I've had my interior lights "upgraded" to the new system here in Hamilton, ON, at Mountain Hyundai no problem. The do the change over for free, and it works like a charm. They can also set up your door locks to lock at 20 kph, if you like too. This is free also. Your dealer should know about this stuff. It's all on their computers as a service bulletin. Hope this helps.
This is a good blog for this sort of stuff. I found out about the lights and locks through this site.
I did find out about the locks from this site when we first got the SF, and had it done, it sure is a great resource to have.
I have had this problem with the rear hatch lock not wanting to unlock. I have also had the auto door lock feature activated. Did you figure out why this is happening? Is it related to the auto door locking feature being activated?
They also found evidence of seepage from the hoses connecting to the power steering cooler. Since they couldn't determine if the seepage was from the hoses or cooler, they ordered both and will install them under warranty.
Have I mentioned that I receive great support from the Service Manager at Bob Hall's Hyundai in Yakima?
I'm thinking about ordering the Weathertech floor liners and cargo liner. Does the liner give you access to the tiedowns? Also, how easy is it to get to the storage compartment underneath with the cargo liner in place?
As for the rear cargo liner, you can go two ways. The first is to just plop it in and get into your storage compartment as you need to (without any trouble I might add)
or
2. The liner has small squares where you can actually cut out the square in the area of the tiedowns so that the hooks are easily accessible.
I opted for not cutting out the squares in mine, but that is a personal preference.
One week later, it happened again - I took it to the dealer and he ran some diagnostics and said it should be OK. On Jan 1, we were retuning from our cottage
in a snowstorm and it happened again on a narrow highway with terrible visibility because of blowing snow. Because it went into limphome mode, the car behind us almost rearended us. I took it to the dealer again and he replaced the AWD sensor and said it should be OK but to bring it back if the problem persists.
Yesterday, it went into limphome mode 5 times within 3 KM. In all cases, I would shut the engine off and would restart it.. Every time, it wouuld be fine for several hundred yards and then go into limphome mode again. In complete frustration, I limped the car back to the dealer and said I do not want to see this car again until they can prove it is fixed once and for all.because it has become a serious safety issue. Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated!
off the top of my head - i would say problem with speed sensors...
C1611 0120. They replaced the throttle body sensor and car seems to be running fine. I will keep you posted. Are speed sensors the same as the throttle body sensor? If so, you diagnosed problem "off the top of your head" and it took them three weeks to diagnose problem.
They have taken pictures, admitted it is wrong, supposedly sent 2 e-mails to Hyundai HQ and after all this time, and me asking over 6 or 7 times to fix the damn thing, nothing.
The whole bottom edge on both rear seats is literally hanging down unattached.
I have checked other vehicles and some also had the same problem where the edges would not attach.I have read many posts where there are also bad dealers like mine who simply aren't interested in dealing with "grey areas".
Anyone else had this problem???
I'm becoming increasingly frustrated. :mad:
Thanks!