Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2007+)



  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    So you didn't already know that your front overhead lights come on when you open a front door? :confuse:
  • bikemorebikemore Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a new SF Ltd two days ago. When I first drove it off the lot to head home my wife and I noticed a distinct vibration from the front end at around 50 mph. We promptly phoned the dealer and were told to bring the vehicle in the next day. After checking it out they said it was two defective tires (Bridgestone Dueler H/T). They replaced the tires and said everything was fine.

    When I picked it up this evening and drove home it was still vibrating at around 50 mph, not quite as bad but still noticeable. I'm trying to figure out what to do next. Do I insist that they change the tires to another brand of tire (I've read that people have had lots of problems with the Bridgestone Dueler) or do I ask them to change it for another car?

    The other thing is that when I drove it home tonight the TPMS light was on all the way home. So, when I got back I looked at the manual and it says that indicates a problem with the Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Could that be related to this problem? In any case, it does not inspire confidence in the dealer's service that they didn't catch this problem before sending me home with it.

    Information or advice anyone? Thanks.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    I'm no expert, but IMO there's little question that your TPMS light is on because the dealer did something incorrectly when installing the new tires. Either a sensor was incorrectly installed or a tire improperly inflated. I don't know the exact procedures that they should have followed but resolution should be quite simple for the dealer.

    As to the continuing vibration, I suspect that one or more wheels is out of balance. I suggest having the dealer perform a road force balance on all 4 wheels. (The "road force" component is very important.) There's an excellent chance that this will solve the problem. If not, see if they'll do a 4-wheel alignment.

    FWIW, I have a 2007 Limited AWD with the same tires and it's absolutely without vibration at any speed. I'm confident that yours will be made the same way. Good luck - please keep us posted. ;)

    - Mike
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    The TMS light is there to warn you that a tire is going flat I believe. Hyundai for some reason ships with tires inflated around 44 lbs. The dealers rarely correct this (mine was too)

    Suggest you check your tire pressure first (digital pressures readers are under $10 if you don't have one but a mechanical one will suffice). Set the tires cold to 30lbs as the sticker on your drivers side door post says and if no joy...back to the dealer. Just mho
    Good luck
  • bikemorebikemore Member Posts: 3

    Thanks. My wife and I took the car back this morning and met with the head of service. They took us a lot more seriously after my wife made a few phone calls to the corporate offices for Hyundai and the dealership.

    We took him for a ride in the car and he immediately noticed the vibration. They took the car in and did exactly what you suggested - a road force balance on all 4 wheels. They found two "defective" tires. Today they swapped these out with tires/wheels from another new vehicle and it will be ready to pick up tomorrow. The service guy said he test drove it and the difference was dramatic. So, that appears to have been the problem.

    My brother-in-law who owns a dealership told me that the problem was likely "flat-spotting". I live in Florida and when a vehicle sits on the lot for an extended period of time (especially in hot weather) the tires can develop flat spots. The date of manufacture on this SF was June and I purchased at the end of November - so it could have been sitting around for months.

    You're also right about the TPMS light. The tech who did the initial work did not reset the system.

    The lesson I've learned is (1) look at the door jamb date of manufacture and (2) test drive the exact vehicle you intend to purchase prior to closing the deal - we drove others and then picked this one for the trim, color and features.

    Thanks for the help!
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    That's terrific! Hopefully, they resolved the problems and you can go back to enjoying your Santa Fe. Please let us know how things turn out after you pick up your car.

    - Mike
  • bikemorebikemore Member Posts: 3

    The vibration problem appears to be fixed. The dealer did a road force balance on all 4 tires (as you suggested) - two were found to be defective and were replaced. I had a chance to get it out this weekend for a few highway miles and it was very smooth. My wife and I are very relieved that it was nothing more serious.

    We're very pleased with the car otherwise. Even the gas mileage hasn't been too bad considering how new the vehicle is and that it hasn't really been broken in yet - 23 mpg (mixed city and highway driving).

    That leads me to another question: What is the appropriate break-in routine for this car? I know that in the manual it mentions something like not going over 60 mph for the first 1200 miles! That would be pretty difficult to do on the highway when the speed limit is 75 and most people are going even faster.

    Today I tried to keep it under 65 and that was manageable. Right now I'm up to 400 miles. When is it okay to begin to drive as you normally would? What about changing the oil soon? I've read online the theory that early on a new engine may shed small metal fragments as it breaks in and that doing the first 1 or 2 oil changes sooner may help protect it in the long run. Any truth to this?

  • zebzeb Member Posts: 57

    My 2007 SF SE FWD is about 2 months old (I posted a bit about my indecision in what kind of car to buy on this forum) - I've been happy with it so far, but this morning I noticed a pretty loud chirping noise when I was stopped at a light. At first I thought it was the car next to me, and then realized it was me!

    Does anyone know what this might be? It's a disappointment seeing as the car is so new.

  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    have dealer check belt condition and tension and also the cooling fan - my fan makes a squeaking noise that is only audible when you shut off the car and are walking away - couldn't reproduce it at the dealer but now i know why - it spins clockwise facing it from the front - they were spinning it the other way and it didn't squeak that way - but i have the 3.3 awd limited...
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    Is it constant, or just when idling? Has it been snowing or icy where you are?

    I had a similar noise on another vehicle (not a Santa Fe)which turned out to be a small leak on the water pump that dripped on to the serpentine belt /pulley which caused the characteristic "chirping" when the engine is idling. If you accelerate , you can qalso hear it squeal as the belt slips.

    It may also be just a loose or slipping belt, a bad pulley bearing, or the automatic radiator fan blades hitting something when they are turning.

    If it was just water or ice that caused it, then it will go away when the engine is warm. If it continues get it checked out.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    exactly - running thru deeep water or just having some splash onto the pullyes and/or belts will cause a temporary chirp too...
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635

    Fortunately, Hyundai does not require a formal break-in process. The info on page 1-3 of the owner's manual is "recommendations", not requirements. Having said that, I've always felt it best to follow them as best I could in order to give myself the best shot at no problems down the road, especially:

    Don't exceed 55 MPH. This is clearly a tough one. The risk here isn't so much the engine as it is the transmission and differential gears. Keeping the speed down until they wear in reduces the chances of noisy ("whiney") gears down the road.

    Keep RPMs under 4000. This one's pretty easy.

    Accelerate and brake moderately. Another easy one.

    Vary engine speed frequently. This allows the piston rings to seat properly without scoring cylinder walls.

    As for oil changes, I suggest just checking it regularly (at every gas fill-up) at first. If you're not burning any oil, I don't see a reason to change it early (before 7500 miles under normal driving conditions, 3000 under "severe" conditions). I consider most of my driving to be under "normal" conditions and did my first oil change at 3750 miles.
  • wolf62wolf62 Member Posts: 5
    Greetings, has any Canadian owners of 07 Santa Fe's had their dome light replaced by their dealers as some of our US members have? My dealership rep. is not even aware that this is being repaired by some dealers in the USA, with kits provided by Hyundai. I've also had a issue with the tailgate "garnish",also known as the thin piece of plastic that holds the rear licence plate light.The right edge of the "garnish" is contacting the tailgate and is removing the paint.The dealer is willing to repair the paint and to stop the "garnish" from contacting the tailgate with a foam adhesive kit from Hyundai (TSB 07-60-004). Anyone else had these issues, and had them repaired in Canada?
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    i think i read about the tsb - but haven't had the problem - in US tho'
  • dz302dz302 Member Posts: 26
    The only "garnish" I know of is ketchup and mustard. I better have a look at my tailgate to see if there is an issue here. Thanks for that tip.
    I've had my interior lights "upgraded" to the new system here in Hamilton, ON, at Mountain Hyundai no problem. The do the change over for free, and it works like a charm. They can also set up your door locks to lock at 20 kph, if you like too. This is free also. Your dealer should know about this stuff. It's all on their computers as a service bulletin. Hope this helps.
    This is a good blog for this sort of stuff. I found out about the lights and locks through this site.
  • wolf62wolf62 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info on the lights. I'll have to go after the dealer again to get the "upgrade" done. Do you happen to know the service bulletin number ?
    I did find out about the locks from this site when we first got the SF, and had it done, it sure is a great resource to have.
  • wolf62wolf62 Member Posts: 5
    I have had this problem with the rear hatch lock not wanting to unlock. I have also had the auto door lock feature activated. Did you figure out why this is happening? Is it related to the auto door locking feature being activated?
  • drwoodrdrwoodr Member Posts: 88
    I don't know if it is directly related to the auto door lock feature or not, but it only happens occasionally. I've learned to just lock and unlock with the key fob if it happens.
  • drwoodrdrwoodr Member Posts: 88
    Driving home tonight, the SF starting running rough, and the check engine light started to flash. I pulled over and restarted the engine. Engine ran smooth, but now the check engine light is on, but no longer blinking. Manual says this indicates an emission problem, and from past experience this often means the gas cap was not on tight. I took off the cap and cleaned the opening, but light is still on (but maybe it will take a while before it goes out). Guess I'll be heading into the dealer this week if it doesn't go out tomorrow. Anyone else experience this?
  • roudy1roudy1 Member Posts: 36
    The same thing happened to me last week. I called the Service Manager and explained it to him. He said that a flashing 'check engine' light generally means there were some misfires which triggered the light; if the light stops flashing but stays on and the engine is running smoothly and there is no odor of anything overheating, it's OK to drive. I've got an appointment set up for Thursday so they can check it out. I've driven about a hundred and fifty miles since the light came on with no problem.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    just make sure they give you a good explanation.... get the tsb # and/or the code they retrieve when they diagnose with the computer... that way you can let this community know what the deal was with yours....
  • drwoodrdrwoodr Member Posts: 88
    Must have been the gas cap. Check engine light went out after a few short trips today. Dealer suspected the gas cap when I called this morning.
  • roudy1roudy1 Member Posts: 36
    The error code was P0300--a random misfire. The Service Manager said if it was related to a specific cylinder, it would have shown as P0301, P0302, etc. Since it was random, it might have been a misfire due to hard acceleration before the engine was up to operating temperature, which is about what happened. He said there were two ECM upgrades (07-36-007 and 008) which he programmed in and told me to bring it back if there were further problems.
    They also found evidence of seepage from the hoses connecting to the power steering cooler. Since they couldn't determine if the seepage was from the hoses or cooler, they ordered both and will install them under warranty.
    Have I mentioned that I receive great support from the Service Manager at Bob Hall's Hyundai in Yakima?
  • angel20angel20 Member Posts: 22
    regarding check engine light coming on...IT IS NOT YOUR GAS CAP. Unlike you I do not have a dealer capable of determining the correct problem, so after 6 engine lights coming on, I had to get Hyundai involved. It is a misfire, but they have to do a computer upgrade to your system. They should now know about this problem after all those who have had many similar situations. your dealer should contact Hyundai and ask specifically about this. All your details were actacully like mine...
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    i think the misfire problem has been had by several people in this forum - but different solutions were found to remedy the problem....
  • bannodbannod Member Posts: 24
    What do y'all use on the black parts on the exterior of your SF? I used wax on my old Honda and ended up with a whitish haze that I never could get rid of.

    I'm thinking about ordering the Weathertech floor liners and cargo liner. Does the liner give you access to the tiedowns? Also, how easy is it to get to the storage compartment underneath with the cargo liner in place?
  • kmangionekmangione Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I own a 2007 Sante Fe GLS AWD. I would like to add steering wheel audio controls. The salesman said that they could add them (he was pretty sure the hook up for them was already there) for me but I have a feeling that it would be pretty expensive. Has anyone bought the kit and installed it themselves? If so, where did you get the kit from? Thanks !
  • stelmoqnstelmoqn Member Posts: 34
    I can answer the Weathertech Liners question. I am SO glad I bought the full liners for the front, back seat & cargo area since I have the light beige carpet and live in a snowy climate. Even my husband commented the other day how this carpet would be completely trashed after all the snow we've already had this winter.

    As for the rear cargo liner, you can go two ways. The first is to just plop it in and get into your storage compartment as you need to (without any trouble I might add)


    2. The liner has small squares where you can actually cut out the square in the area of the tiedowns so that the hooks are easily accessible.

    I opted for not cutting out the squares in mine, but that is a personal preference.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    I'm certainly not an expert on this but I highly doubt that the addition of steering wheel controls could be done for less than mega-$$$. My bet is that you'd have to change not only the steering wheel but also one or more of the car's computers. It could well end up a long string of components that ultimately need to be replaced since there are so many that communicate to each other in today's cars. If you find out otherwise, let us know.
  • dlfisher1dlfisher1 Member Posts: 10
    There is FINALLY an update for this problem. My 2007 Santa Fe has had this problem for months. For no apparent reason, the Check Engine light would start flashing and then eventually turn to a solid light. It seemed to be worse when the gas tank was low on fuel. I would take it to the dealer and Advance Auto Parts to code the engine while the light was flashing. It would code P0300 which is a random engine misfire but since it was never specific about which cylinder, the dealer could not correct the problem. Today when I went in for an oil change, I mentioned that it was continuing the problem at random intervals and was told that Hyundai had issued an update to solve the problem. They performed the update. Time will tell whether or not this was effective.
  • bramble1bramble1 Member Posts: 6
    We purchased our 2007 Santa Fe AWD 3.3L in June 2007 from a dealer in Toronto Ontario. We just loved it and even drove 6000 km in one week in July down to South Carolina, then all the way to Quebec, and back home to Toronto! The car has been great up until just before Christmas and has been a nightmare ever since. It started one night when I was driving on an expressway - suddenly, the Check Engine Light came on, the AWD sensor started flashing, and the ESC sensor started flashing and the car went into Limphome mode and would not go over 10 KM/hour. I pulled over and turned the engine off. I restarted the car and the car drove normally but the Check Engine light stayed on. I took it to a Hyundai dealer the next morning - they said they lubricated some wires and that it should be ok.
    One week later, it happened again - I took it to the dealer and he ran some diagnostics and said it should be OK. On Jan 1, we were retuning from our cottage
    in a snowstorm and it happened again on a narrow highway with terrible visibility because of blowing snow. Because it went into limphome mode, the car behind us almost rearended us. I took it to the dealer again and he replaced the AWD sensor and said it should be OK but to bring it back if the problem persists.
    Yesterday, it went into limphome mode 5 times within 3 KM. In all cases, I would shut the engine off and would restart it.. Every time, it wouuld be fine for several hundred yards and then go into limphome mode again. In complete frustration, I limped the car back to the dealer and said I do not want to see this car again until they can prove it is fixed once and for all.because it has become a serious safety issue. Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated!
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    what is the update? any documentaion offered with an explanation?
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    what was the code they got when they diagnosed?

    off the top of my head - i would say problem with speed sensors...
  • bhunter82bhunter82 Member Posts: 1
    Today I went through the same frustrating situation with my Santa Fe. If you find the type of sleeve wrench that fits, please post where you found it. Tried 2 auto stores today with no luck. I did howerver find that K&N sells a filter with a nut welded to the bottom. I will try that filter next change. Outside of this issue I have been pleased with the car.
  • lucky15lucky15 Member Posts: 72
    My first oil change was a nightmare as I stated in a previous post, I just finnished my second oil change plus filter, it was a breeze compared to the first, I was able to free the filter with my hand this time and knowing there was going to be some oil spilled I was careful not to get much on my hand and arm this time, I again used the Fram (sure grip) oil filter, it does make a difference in getting a good hold on the filter. I have read in here that I should be using a felt washer when putting the drain plug back in, there was no washer on the drain plug from the factory, and I have had no leaks since or before. can someone here enlighten me on this.
  • bramble1bramble1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply.Today I got the car back. They had codes P2106 1296 2135
    C1611 0120. They replaced the throttle body sensor and car seems to be running fine. I will keep you posted. Are speed sensors the same as the throttle body sensor? If so, you diagnosed problem "off the top of your head" and it took them three weeks to diagnose problem.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    i think that would be the electronic throttle control - did they say it was a tsb? i think someone else had the same problem... but different symptoms... let's be cautiously optimitstic ;)
  • btj1btj1 Member Posts: 6
    Question? My owners manual says in Ca belt replacement is recommended, but not required. Does this void my warranty if I choose not to replace? I bought the extended bumper to bumper 100k warranty. I get mixed answers from the service dep. at the dealership??? Help me please!!!!!
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    ooo - could be the throttle position sensor too - but they should have told you what was malfunctioning....
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    if you can afford to do it - get it done before any problems occur - if there is any problem and you didn't do it - then the dealer will be like "shame on you" - all maintenance is recommended.... if they list it as recommended and there is no listing for required - just do it at the recommended schedule... and if the required is after the warranty is up - even more the reason to get it done...
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get the dealer to fix the rear seat covers on my Limited, ever since I bought it on 4/30/07. They do not fit properly because the edge does not attach to the bottom of the seat frame as it should, as the connecting strip is on the wrong side. Unfortunately I missed it when I went through the initial inspection.

    They have taken pictures, admitted it is wrong, supposedly sent 2 e-mails to Hyundai HQ and after all this time, and me asking over 6 or 7 times to fix the damn thing, nothing.

    The whole bottom edge on both rear seats is literally hanging down unattached.

    I have checked other vehicles and some also had the same problem where the edges would not attach.I have read many posts where there are also bad dealers like mine who simply aren't interested in dealing with "grey areas".

    Anyone else had this problem???
  • grutzagrutza Member Posts: 52
    I have this problem on the drivers side only. I have an appointment for Monday. Haven't mentioned it to the dealer yet, we bought at the end of October.
  • isaboisabo Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if anyone else out there had this problem. I bought my Santa Fe in November of 07...the first time the temp dipped below freezing the engine light came on upon starting and it also misfired and ran horribly. Since then I have gone through two catalytic converters (replaced by hyundai service) after being left stranded on the freeway and the Santa Fe has been in the service department more than it has been in my garage. The service department just can't seem to find a fix for it.

    I'm becoming increasingly frustrated. :mad:
  • juzojuzo Member Posts: 3
    Do you have any occurence again with your codes after the sensor replacement? My Santa-Fe 2007 was at the dealer today for the 2nd time this month for codes P2106,1295,2135: a check-engine after very cold temperatures, no power at all, vehicule is OFF-ROAD! They filled the computer and TPS connectors with ''wurth stuf'' (???). Today, they have done the same with the throttle body connector. I am not confident about their solution...
  • grutzagrutza Member Posts: 52
    I had the seat fixed today, but didn't ask what the solution was because I picked it up after service hours. Sorry I didn't get the answer but it is fixed.
  • angel20angel20 Member Posts: 22
    TO the engine light problem... yes I have also had this problem MANY times... and after practically begging the Hyundai service to take me vehicle and just fix it.. Never getting a solution... finally calling LEMON LAW Hyundai CORP came and inspected it...said it was only a computer upgrade...not converters, plugs, gas cap, ... Yeah i heard it all... still in the workings with lemon law...GET IN TOUCH WITH HYUNDAI! :lemon:
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    with the amount of these problems - wonder why no tsb - or recall...
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    How many miles do you have? You have the 2.7 enginer right so it is a belt? There may be two belts to replace by the way. The 3.3 engine has a chain.
  • btj1btj1 Member Posts: 6
    I have 3.5 V-6. The warranty says timing belt in California"Recommended" not "Required" at 60k in California. So to me that reads and was told by the previous dealership "shine it at 60k as if it breaks it WILL be covered by warranty including any damage as it is NOT a required maintenance service in California" However I don't want to void the warranty on a tech issue? The new dealership that took over says I have to do it. Do I? I just do it but it's a money issue since I lost my job.
  • bramble1bramble1 Member Posts: 6
    Your codes were identical to mine. Since they replaced the throttle body sensor it has been driving with no problems whatsoever. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Good luck!
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