Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2007+)



  • lv2drvlv2drv Member Posts: 132
    I use S-100 wax. Harley Motorcycle shops sell it. I don't have much time to spend on detailing the car, and with this wax, I just apply it on with the sponge they supply and wipe it off right away. There's no drying time and if you get it on the black plastic, you can't see it. I love the stuff and a little goes a long way. My husband started using it on his motorcycle. After three months, and some trips through the no-touch car wash, it still beads.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Extended Warranties discussion for suggestions too.
  • enrouteenroute Member Posts: 17
    I've checked the board for this issue but seems no one reported same problem I've got. I got my Santa Fe 3.3L AWD last week and now it's only about 180Km. I started the engine for less than 30 times so far but encountered TWICE engine start up failure.

    The starter works fine. I can hear the normal ti-ti-ti-ti sound but the engine doesn't start up. I have to turn the key position off and turn on to start again for couple minutes and finally get it start. During the process, I didn't step on the gas paddle because I thought too much gas would make the sparking plug "too wet" and the situation worse.

    Do you think this is due to sparking plug, the fuel supply system, or anything else? I know I can drive it back to be checked but I'm sure it would be normal when it sits in the dealership. Just like to hear comments from you before driving back to them.

    By the way, I follow all the guideline on the owner's handbook so far. Thanks for any suggestion. :)
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Just for the heck of it...try turning on the key and wait until the lights on the computer display go out before starting. might be the computer is not quite ready.

    The old give it some gas prior to start does not work any more since the computer controls all fuel mixtures etc.

    Could also be bad gas, re formula for winter of who knows.

    Is it getting colder where you are?

    If no go, I am afraid you will have to leave it over night at a dealer so the problem can be reproduced (maybe)....Then of course it will not happen...these things have eyes!
  • enrouteenroute Member Posts: 17
    "Could also be bad gas, re formula for winter of who knows. "

    Temperature isn't that low in Vancouver's Autumn. It was about 20C something with direct sunshine when I was at the beach yesterday afternoon and encountered the engine start-up problem. The gas was the first tank from the dealership. Maybe I should drive to Seattle and burn out the gas then get refuel.

    I will wait a bit longer next time to start the engine after the computer get ready. I'll keep updating this issue here. Thanks for your comment.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    have you had any service done since you took it home new?
  • enrouteenroute Member Posts: 17
    "have you had any service done since you took it home new?"

    No, there's only 230Km on it after driving safely this morning to my office. :)

    I plan to change oil the first time when it hits 800Km. I always treat my new car this way.
  • slk70slk70 Member Posts: 12
    How are your battery connections? I happened to drain the battery by leaving the map lights on overnight once, and so a low battery with a bad connection (preventing recharge) could be a possibility here.
  • enrouteenroute Member Posts: 17
    I believe the battery is in very good condition since the sound of the engine starter is fast and smooth. The problem didn't come out everytime. When it was not there, I can start engine right away.

    I will add new tank of gas to it after burning out the original "complimentary gas" and see if the situation is still there.
  • skierbri10skierbri10 Member Posts: 32
    Is the gas tank the dealer has an inground tank or an above ground tank? The reason I ask is many times an above ground tank will get water in the fuel, from rain and or condensation. Maybe try a bottle of Heat in your next tank?
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    non-mechanic savvy senior, in need of advice. I have a 2003-2.7-6cyl- gsl-santa fe. Mileage is presently 21,200 miles. While it has been lightly driven, I have not had any problems with it (except a tranny "bump" about a year ago, which was corrected, under a tsb repair) and love the ride. I think it is a great vehicle, especially at the price. My concern, is the timing belt replacement. I recently recieved a notice from the dealership, that the maintance recommendation, for a timing belt change, is 48 months-60,000 miles. As I have only 21,200 miles on the vehicle, can anyone advise me, as to whether or not, I should have the timing belt replaced? and if I don't, will I negate the warranty? Thank you for your assistance. Rich
  • slateblueslateblue Member Posts: 110
    Rich, the dealer is assuming your mileage should be around 60,000 based on the year of your Santa Fe. Does your manual say anything about changing it at 48 months? If it does you could void the warrenty by not having it replaced, assuming you have followed all of the other required service to keep your warrenty in force. Personally, I would have it replaced at 60,000 miles.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    slateblue is on point - months usually do not dictate maintenance - mileage does...
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    slateblue, thanks for your reply. I was thinking along the same lines as you, thinking mileage over months. My concern is that the maintance book does say 48 months-60,000 and the 10 year-100,000 mile power train warranty would be voided, if I use the 60,ooo miles, instead of the 48 months. A call to hyundai america was no help either, as the rep I spoke with, danced around the answer.
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    somedai, thanks for the reply.
  • skierbri10skierbri10 Member Posts: 32
    Although, fluids should be changed out after a certain amount of months.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
  • bambewbambew Member Posts: 43
    I have to disagree with somedai1. You cannot go by mileage alone my friend. Auto parts, especially rubber engine parts, like timing belts, deteriorate with age. That's why the manufacturer states: 60,000 miles or 48 months whichever comes first. That's the key phrase here... whichever come first!

    Just as with your engine oil, it's 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first... It's not a one-or-the-other kinda deal.


    If you were to use the same logic as you are using for your timing belt replacement interval... "If I use the 60,000 miles instead of the 48 months" for your oil change interval... 'Well I think I'll take the 3,000 miles rather than the 3 months'. You just can't think like that my friend. What if you use your car as a grocery getter (the manufacturer doesn't know how your vehicle will be used) and you only clock 200 miles a month. Does this mean that you would only change your engine oil every 15 months? Or, similarly, if you put on 3,000 miles a month. This does not mean that you can opt for the 3 month change interval at 9,000 miles. ;)

    Take the drive train warranty for example. It's 100,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. You can't expect Hyundai to honor the warranty if your car is just 8 years old with 150,000 miles on the clock. Conversley, if your car was 20 years old with just 60,000 miles, would you really expect Hyundai to fix a drive train prob under warranty on a 20 year old vehicle? Not!

    Follow Hyundai's maintenance schedule my friend. You'll be kicking yourself in the butt if your belt snaps and Hyundai says... "We're sorry, but you didn't follow the service schedule, you warranty is VOID!" :cry:

    Why risk trashing your valves and a very costly repair, for the sake of a $500 timing belt replacement... :confuse:

  • lv2drvlv2drv Member Posts: 132
    I started to fill up my tank today. It had nearly one quarter of a tank left. The gas pump clicked off at 8.9 gallons. I kept trying to fill it up, but it would put a little more gas in and then the pump would click off. I finally put in 9.05 and when I started the SF, it wasn't quite full. I estimate I could have put in 12 gallons, or more. Has anyone else had this problem? I called the dealership and I take it in on Tuesday. Thanks for your help.
  • kjk411kjk411 Member Posts: 6
    My 2007 SF has been in the shop for 2 days now
    to repair the latch to adjust the back of the
    2nd row of seats. Dealer had to "outsource" the
    work to a local body and trim shop. After having
    it for 2 days they now found out the parts that
    were ordered were incorrect. Apparently, this
    is a big job with taking the seats out and
    more. Anyone else have this issue?
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    It is not a good idea to "top off" today's vehicles gas tanks.

    You are better off just letting it shut off by itself. Mopst of the new ones (if not all) have a "bladder type" of affair that can ruin the assembly if the bladder is overfilled. I think yopur manual even states do not overfill. ASlso gas needs expansion room if it should be hot outside! Warranty warranty warranty!!!!

    Never checked exactly on mine but I do recall there is a little "slack" between what the gauge says vs the actual amount in the tank. (emission system??/).

    I do remember that the needle does go into the full red mark though. Hint: try to have the SF on a flat surface when filling though

  • lv2drvlv2drv Member Posts: 132
    Gizzer777, thanks for your reply. My tank was about three, maybe four gallons shy of being a full tank. It only sounds like I was topping it off because that's the pump "thought" the tank was full and I was trying to fill it up. My husband was out of town yesterday, but he is checking on it today. Well, he just got home. He went to the same pump and it still wouldn't fill. He pulled into another one, and now the tank is full. He thinks the pump is sensitive. I'll wait to see what happens with the next fill and cancel the appointment for Tuesday.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Errrr ...outsourced party part/shop on a new auto? This is a latch...not material.

    I would check with another dealer 1st though about what they would do...something just sounds strange there. At the very least, I would make sure their work ticket that you get a copy of stating ("outsourced" part by dealer) from the dealer.

    If anyone follows my posts...I never give a dealer/auto company any room to squiggle out of a new car warranty! have an accident, the part is founf not to be Hyundai and is blamed for an injury to someone and you get sued? remopte but anything is possib le today!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We just had a thread about this over in the CR-V discussion. The fuel pump needs to stay cool, so it gets buried in the gas tank and the reserve gas helps keep it cool and lubricated. Having 2 or 3 gallons left when the low gas light comes on is pretty typical.

    joncar, "Honda CR-V Real World MPG" #560, 4 Oct 2007 8:17 am
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Good idea (you do not even have to wait for a fill up either...1/4-1/2 tank would check it as well)...the fact that another pump's auto shut off valve working CORRECTLYdoes make it sound like the 1st pump was a faulty one.

    3-4 gals is way too much to be off IMHO. 1/2 to one gals I could understand. My $$ would go on pump 1's mechanism being off!

    EDIT: Just noticed the other reply as I said also a bit of slack is normal but still think that 3-4 gals is a lot. My last 2 vehicles (2005 Honda and 2004 Mini Cooper would shut off at About the point where the needle got it to the red zone...AND THE OTHER POSTER IS 100% CORRECT...THAT PUMP MUST STAY COOL!
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    How did your install go? Any problems?

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Hi BCME1

    NOT a single Hitch (pun =intended ;)

    DRAWTIGHT hitch from =$120 (+ I GOT A FEW OTHER THINGS (new Ball, receiver + lock pin etc) TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE 99 CENT FGT AT $150 in purchases...hard to beat in light of the price hyundai charges

    It is heavy and i used a small jack + 2 stands and a 2x4 to position it for easy mounting of the 4 pre drilled holes.

    I shelled out the $81 for the plug and play harness which took about 15 min (mostly to properly route the cables)You need small hands....(forget the crimp on job IMHO)

    Reminder: there are 2 caps on the existing pre wired plugs that must be removed prior to pluging in the hyundai harness...harness was expensive, but you save all that labor taking out the back panels in the SF ($35 cost of the connector from etrailers version and there can be no BS on a warranty claim from Hyundai...Recommended on the hitch/harness and Vendor (very helpful on the phon e too!)
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks much. I was debating on the etrailers wiring kit. I will go with the Hyundai harness. Exactly where did you find the connectors in the wheel well? Really appreciate your help.

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Just my thoughts....but don't even think about the Etrailer kit...It seems good, seems easy to install....but getting inside the inner INTERIOR panels that must be removed, seems like a PIA...still MUCH better than the Hyundai crimp on THOUGH....For the extra $$ you have simplicity, no possibility of fumes, and no possible warranty BS from the dealer or Hyundai!!!! TRUST ME...THE XTRA $$ IS WELL SPENT!

    The connectors you want are a pair of very odd looking roundish plugs that are attached on the driver's side under the REAR fender well ) they are there just keep looking "> Z(assuming that yours has them (The "discovering" poster (kdahlquist said they all did) It is easier to lie on your back WITH A FLASHLIGHT and look up while under the fender.They are on the inner side of the fender well, (chassis side) and fairly close to the driver's side muffler If I recall the manual has them pictured wrong. THEY ARE PRETTY THICK WIRE LOOMS AND CONNECTORS TOO and exit the chassis via a pretty thick rubber type boot.

    The word on this thread from kdahlquist, was that all 07's had the pre-wiring...I do know for sure that the touring pkg equipped ones have the prewiring.

    PART NUMBER!!! A quote from kdahlquist original post with the correct part number since most dealers still do not know the harness is available by itself.

    "Hyundai has finally released a plug-in trailer wiring harness for the 07 Santa Fe. It is part number U8612-2B000. It's so new that my dealer didn't know it existed, and tried to tell me it didn't. They wanted to sell me part number U8614-2B000, which requires splicing. I told them to check with Hyundai, which they did, and surprise! I was right. The computer showed it in-stock in the warehouse, so I should have it in a few days. Retail price is $81.61."

  • stelmoqnstelmoqn Member Posts: 34
    I just had a Drawtite hitch installed and used the Hyundai harness. I was lucky and my dealer had one in stock. My husband didn't want to fool with the install so I paid a little more but it is so much nicer not to have it hanging out of the back of my vehicle like on my old SF...
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks much Jeff,
    Mine has the towing pkg so the wiring should be there.I fully agree with the PIA.I will pursue the Hyundai kit.

  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    We are thinking about getting an SE or GLS 2007 Santa FE automatic. But wondered what the requirements were to keep the warranties in full.

    As far as do they require you get those bogus 10-15k inspections etc. Also the timing chain/belt inspection or replacement requirements intervals? I mean all these inspections cost big money for really nothing. ie check belts/hoses fluids... Also I read they require you get your oil changed every 3000 miles, I would rather not have to go through that and use Mobil 1 in my current cars to keep them going strong. If you went over 3000 miles etc would they just ignore your warranties?

    I just wondered if anyone looked into these types of things? I would probally have to get what they have in writing. It may even stop me from purchasing if it gets too out of hand.

    As far as changing or inspecting a timing chain give me a break with the 60,000 mile service. That just doesnt sound right to me. I have 2 toyotas that have not had their belt changed till 100k.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    I bought an SE instead of the GLS....

    DISCLAIMER: The following are strictly my own personal beliefs...I have been around since the old DAYS..and now transitioned to the newer school...STILL DOES NOT LET ME BELIEVE THAT 10-15000 MILE OIL CHANGES ARE A GOOD THING eITHER! (like the BMW/ MINI Cooper) lOOK AT THE FINE PRINT ON TOYOTA, HONDA AND THE REST...PRETTY MUCH THE SAME!

    Oil changes are good insurance if you plan to keep he car! as are good quality fluids and filters NOT FRAM!@!!

    1st in reality, Mobile one is not a PURE Synthetic but is Dino Based,( THERE ARE DIFFERENT TIERS OF OIL THOUGH!!!...THE GOOD STUFF IS German Castroil AND Amsoil ( Both great for high performance engines!!!)(BIG LAWSUIT OVER THAT ONE A FEW YEARS AGO! and does not contrary to popular belief and marketing hype give you longer change intervals.


    Oil changes are good insurance if you plan to keep he car! as are good quality fluids and filters NOT FRAM!@!!
    Some are Bogus and some are not! Engine tolerances are very much closer today .Usually the ones on the plaquard above the writer's desk are add ons to make them $$$ . (like get an engine flush).GENERALLY...IF IT IS REQUIRED...DO IT...IF only recommended,,,DON'T...SERVICE CTRS ARE HUGE PROFIT CTRS!!!

    I strongly recommend against places like jiffylube etc...worst of all worlds...poor quality oil. filters (even if they had one)_ yes, all filters were NOT created equally (materials, # of pleats etc> and poor workmanship (like in being famous for stripping the drain plugs, and not checjking form leaks!)

    BTW: the OEM filtert is a Cannister type, not an all in one is known to be of decent quality)

    If it says REQUIRED IN THE MANUAL...I recommend you do it...IF IT SAYS "recommended"...use your own judgment (MANY OF THOSE ARE THE BOGUS ONES YOU ARE REFERRING TO I BELIEVE). Stay away from oil additives and things that claim to increase gas mileage and make sure all fluids are the spece'd out for your vehicle I definitely stay away from additives for oil (MY RULE OF THUMB IS USE OEM FILTERS (NOT FRAM/Honeywell) AND EVEN THOUGH I HATE the stuff or Quaker State/Penzoil, LET THE DEALER USE HIS BULK OIL and do the oil changes as well...THAT WAY THERE I CAN PROVE THAT THE INTERVAL WAS INDEED MET (MONTHS AND MILEAGE BOTH!!! (as well as the correct fluid weights. I insist that notations always includes "customer requests all fluids to be correct and topped off...I admit to using an occasional an of Chevron's Techron in a gas tank every once in a while...Gas these days is junk IMHO! NEVER GIVE A DEALER A SHOT AT VOIDING YOUR WARRANTY...NEVER!!!

    YOU ALSO MAKE REFERENCE TO THE TIMING BELTS/CHAINS on the 2.7 and 3.3Liter engines. I BOUGHT THE SE model with/ 3.3 Liter ENGINE, PRIMARILY TO AVOID TIMING BELTS (+ some of the nice goodies like the 5 speed auto tranny instead of the 4 speed automatics. ( (THE 2.7 uses A BELT, THE 3.3L HAS DUAL TIMING CHAINS.If you have belts and the engine has not had its belts replaced on time...I think you are a dead duck! That is expensive $6-700 to replace that belt!!! NEVER FORGET THE BELTS IF I HAVE NOT BEEN CLEAR ENOUGH
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    The 3000 mile oil change interval is only for cars that are driven in "severe" conditions, i.e. constant short trips, frequent driving in extreme temperatures, etc. (The manual spells out very clearly what constitutes "severe".) The normal interval is 7500 miles. Even for those who follow the 3000 mile schedule, it's very cheap insurance.

    As for the inspections, I've always operated on the premise that the engineers know what they're doing; as such, I follow their recommendations. A 60,000 mile timing belt interval is very common in the industry and you'd be wise to adhere to it.

    As a case in point, the car I owned longer than any other was a Volvo 940 Turbo. I bought the car new and followed the recommended maintenance schedule to the letter. I kept the car for 9 years and 245,000 miles without a single major problem. When I sold it, the engine still sounded and ran like new. Volvo knew better than anyone how their cars should be maintained; I believe Hyundai does, too.
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    If you are mechanically-inclined, and have the necessary tools and time, you can perform the majority of the routine services yourself on the Santa Fe. Just document all of your work, purchase OEM filters, etc., and keep all invoices and receipts. Hyundai is one of the best companies supporting Owner Performed Maintenance, and in fact, has a section in the Owner's Manual on this.

    I haven't had any problem whatsoever with Hyundai's warranty and with all of my self-performed maintenance done on my Hyundai. They offer a website for owners to specifically keep track and document all self-performed maintenance. Except for the major service intervals, you can substantially reduce your preventive maintenance costs in this manner.

    Although the Lambda V6 used in the Santa Fe uses a timing chain (and under normal use, shouldn't require replacement for 200K to 300K miles), it does use mechanical valve lifters with adjustment shims for valve lash adjustment, e.g. it does not use hydraulic valve lifters. Because of this, if the V6 does eventually require replacement of the shims to bring the valve adjustment back into spec, this service (out-of warranty) will be rather costly, as I believe the labor required for this is around 8 hours.

    Re. your comment on timing belt replacement . . . Hyundai's I4 engines are "interference engines." If a timing belt should break, the valves will hit the crown of the piston, possibly holing the piston, but surely bending a valve - or plural in many cases. I believe most Toyota engines are "non-interference engines" - i.e. if the timing belt should break, there is sufficient clearance for the valves to be open when the piston is at TDC (top dead center) or fully "up". Thus, if a timing belt breaks with most Toyota engines, you simply have to replace the belt - not the engine!! Hence, Toyota's longer replacement interval for their timing belt.

    The older Hyundai I4 engines were derivatives of a Mitsubishi design, and my son's Mitsubishi Galant, which uses a timing belt, went over 100K before he replaced the timing belt. No problem, but if it had broken, he would have been in big trouble, as the 2.4L Mitsubishi I4 is also an interference engine. I think Hyundai is just being conservative, as unfortunately, a fair majority of owners do not follow the recommended maintenance intervals on any make of car.
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    Thanks for the replys. I too am looking at the SE for the timing chain advantage plus the extras that come with the 1000.00 increase.

    Yes my Toyotas for the most part are non-interference shame can't be said for the Hyundai. It's really hard to determine the way to go. I can get a Highlander for a little more then a SE and not have to worry about the chain.

    The salesmen said the belt costs 500-600 to replace which I think is way to high, unless there are 2 on the GLS. Normal timing belts cost 200-250 then they usually do the seals and waterpump for another $500.00.

    As far as shims and lifter adjustments. I have a feeling when you get your timing chain/belt done at Hyundai they do not even touch those. Sorry I just think they ignore that extra stuff that probally really needs to be done.

    I also like the paint better with Toyota. Not very happy with what I have seen done on the paint jobs for Hyundai even todays models. I owned an excel in 1985 that the clear coat pealed right off during its first 36,000 miles. To me the paint is still an issue.

    I do use mobil 1 high mileage oil and high mileage filters. I run them until 7000-7500 miles. I called Mobil up and asked a bunch of questions about longevity of the oil and filter and they had no problem with running them at those intervals. 3000 miles using a synthetic makes little sense to me and would hate doing that. I do like the added protection they claim however.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    You're WAYYYYYY over-thinking this. From your posts, it sounds like you're trying to find any ways that you can to talk yourself out of buying a Santa Fe. If you're predisposed to Toyotas, then buy one; you'll probably be happier with it. Personally, though, I looked at them (as well as just about everything else in the Santa Fe's price range) and I was completely bored by them.

    IMO you need to look at the real significance of the things you're using to make a decision. Now, I don't know how much it costs to replace a timing belt (or chain) on a Santa Fe. Whether it's $250 or $500, so what? It doesn't happen but every 60,000 miles which for most owners is every 4 or 5 years. That works out to roughly a $50 difference per year, about the same as a tank of gas. Big deal! In exchange we get a 10 year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. That's a good deal if you ask me.

    As for oil changes, we've already established that the normal interval is 7500 miles, not 3000. An oil change in these vehicles runs around $35. That's insignificant if you ask me.

    You've also expressed concern over fuel economy and your notion that other makers' published numbers might be more "reliable" than Hyundai's. I get an honest 22 - 23 on the highway in my Limited (3.3 liter) AWD. Admittedly, that's not great. But even if I got 25 (which subjectively sounds like much more), at 3 mpg more that would be a difference that I'd barely notice in my pocketbook. It's just not worth worrying about.

    BTW, the paint on my Steel Gray Limited is absolutely perfect. I bought the car the day after it was delivered to the dealer. As such, it was not subjected to any abuse by test drivers or dealer lot attendants. I'd bet anything that the paint damage you're seeing was caused by abuse after the cars arrived at the dealer.
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    I agree with most of your information. I just wanted to get the nitty gritty out of the way and the best way is to ask the service attendents.

    Wive asked him about synthetic said 5000 miles which is fine with me, living in Florida they say it's harsh so I can't go by the 7500 mile rule. It's not a cost thing with the oil as much as the going to get it done every 2 months I hate doing that. When I purchase higher quality oil I expect a benefit in that I can hold off longer.

    By the way it also sounded like they may be phasing out the 2.7 liter for the 3.3 in 08 but that was from a Hyundai service tech, who could not know what is going on.

    As long as the mileage is around 21 I'm ok with it. Went through a lot of cars to get it down to the Santa FE and Highlander and just want to get the maintence issues under control now. As far as I can tell most people are vey happy with their Santa FE.

    Chain lasts life of engine: Below

    Called Hyundai said no maintence for timing chain.

    Also found this:

    Hyundai Veracruz

    Handles the road as well as you do.
    - Veracruz features a powerful, clean and modern Lambda 3.8L V6.
    - 260 horsepower and 257 lb-ft of torque help propel you and your passengers to your destination in style
    - Aluminum block and head help reduce weight and improve overall efficiency.
    - DOHC 24 valve with Continuously Variable Valve Timing (CVVT) and Variable Intake System (VIS) helps achieve 25 MPG on the highway and 18 MPG in the city.
    - Maintenance-free timing chain

    Called 3 Toyota dealerships:
    1 said timing chain last 400,000 miles may need new tensioner once in awhile for $185.00
    1 said drive it till it stops working then get it replaced or new tensioner.
    1 said never had to change a timing chain. Should last life of car.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    oil changes are every 3months or 3k miles if the car is driven in severe conditions... who will determine what is severe? It is subjective and is gray area - that's why most maintenance and repair shops always go with the 3k instead of by the other manufacturer suggested maintenance service interval. Better safe than sorry. If you're concern is meeting with warranty guidelines - then follow the service intervals suggested by the manufacturer and get the work done by your dealer. If your concern is the longevity of you vehicle beyond the warranty as pertains to oil change intervals - use synthetic oil - you will be protected beyond the 3k miles - how many miles beyond? i only know of 1 or 2 companies that guarantee the longevity of their oil by mileage - personally i use synthetic and i am ready to change it at 3k miles if i can't for whatever reason - i don't really worry but i won't let it get past 7k miles and that is withing the guidelines of the warranty and the arguement would still exist if anything went wrong with the engine... especially since i do my own oil changes.

    as far as timing chains - if you have the money - get it done when the manual says - otherwise it's a crap shoot - many cars don't even break a timing belt or have a timing belt problem b4 100k miles - chains last longer than that - but they do take a beating over time and will need to be changed - the labor time and cost to change just the tensioner is rediculous and you would be better served to do everything at once...
  • gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    From what I hear and read you shouldn't have to worry about the timing chain. You will have issues when the tensioner is out of adjustment because the chain is less taunt over time.

    I agree the labor to adjust the tensioner is out of line. But doubt you will really need it done. Basically the chain will not break it will just cause your auto to drive badley or not start as well. Which is a plus in my book (as at least it is telling you something) instead of this random 60-90k estimate they push for a belt that may or may not be going bad.

    This also Avoids the extra costs that are involved in a timing belt vs chain are worth the extra $1000.00 for the SE and the extras. Maybe that is why they may be phasing out the 2.7 liter/belt option.

    They always recommend changing the water pump/seals and other belts when you change a timing belt bringing the cost up to $1200.00 for the Santa FE at one site. Over 5 years its cheap but when you have to come up with $1200.00 bucks it's kinda hard. The 10year/100k should also cover those components as they are not a required service.

    Basically all those extra procedures are influenced by the timing belt change process. If you don't have to have it done till it really needs it all the better.

    I agree I would be more intent on doing the synthetic changes between 5-7k. Mobil 1 and Amsoil both seem to cover the extended runs. Around 5k is acceptable to me a little over no biggie.

    But one thing for sure you want to have an automatic and have it serviced when they tell you. I have read Hyundai/KIA owners I forget which, were told their manual trans went bad because they drive the stick badley. These were people that have driven manuals for 30 years, who needs that in the equation? Get an automatic do the maintainance and drive till 100k without extra costs.
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    stelmoqn or Jeff, do you have the number to your dealer? My dealer does not have enough ______ to call Hyundai for info because the wiring connector is not in their computer system.

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335

    It was not a number for a single part, but an entire map light kit depending upon your trim level (as dictated by your VIN#)There were a new dome and Map light assemblies and I believe 2 new harnesses + [non-permissible content removed]'t hardware (crimp connectors etc)

    Good luck
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks Jeff but my dome light was fixed. I was referring to the trailer light kit. It's not in my dealers system and they don't have enough know how to contact Hyundai.

  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21
    Jeff,I thought I might give your dealer a call to find out how they were able to order the kit then pass it on to mine. I can get a senior discount otherwise I'd order from yours.

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Sorry for the screw up Bill...

    Lithia Hyundai in Reno wanted $96 + fgt for their crimp on trailer oem harness!! (factory list was $81!) so I mail ordered the plug and play from Roseville Calif..there comes a point to say......bye! Will just use RENO stealership enough to keep warranty in shape!!!

    New service Mgr (his policy)...and he could not figure out why his oil chg bays were empty, I MEAN REALLY EMPTY ON A MONDay morning...PEOPLE ARE FUNNY HERE! AND They know when they are being ripped off and surprisingly people do know about bulk grade oils! (they would rather use JiffyLube than pay the stealership places!)Just make leaks and you get your old parts back (Law here if you ask) crossthreaed plugs thanks! (if they know what to do and I do have time to do it! I still want it done myself...I know it was done correctly but at the old was worth it!

    In fact, Took that funky plastic shroud off just to have a look at filter location...but is it a pleasure AND I DO KEEP RECORDS GALORE!

    Figured for $35 w/ Mobile One inc oem filter + 1 additional qt of Mobile One...ok...

    but for crummy oil (even at 3000 miles)...I'll do it myself just like the past 35 yrs! I will use the left over in my snow blower! :P It likes 20w/50 SYN too

    Their info is if you want em: 3355 Kietzke Ln. RENO, NV...Nice people but who needs em. I will pay for a little convenience BUT lets see... 6-$7 for crummy oil
    $3.00 xtra gas r/t BIG TIME HILLS)(second choice in filters would be WIX by Napa Gold and I prefer them just next to the OEM)
    My tools going to waste!!! A REAL BIGGIE!!
    Even though Mobile One is not Top tier oil that people think it is (great marketing!),,,,,, I will take it in place of that 55 gal drum stuff!the dealership uses and loosen up the interval a little bit, Will be easier on the engine this winter too

    they just raised the bulk Quaker Qrap oil chg from $32 to $37 (A FEW $$ morefor the same crummy grade oil...maybe, but Wally World is $26 for 5 qts of Mobile One (just about the same dinero w/ much better oil)...Might have to warm up the 3rd garage bay to stay in practice, drink a bi mor coffee...but.......and use the $$ to go to Mobile one...still staying with oem filters!(about $12 ea. I only do a change about 5-6 times per yr anyway since I dive so little theses days anyway

    Lithia Reno Hyundai
    Reno, NV 89502
    (775) 823-5500

    Like yours, the Map light kit was free from Hyundai Consumer Affairs and installed free.
  • stelmoqnstelmoqn Member Posts: 34

    I bought my harness (Part #U8612-2B000) at Arapahoe Hyundai in Centennial, CO (Denver suburb) for $69.37 + tax. Their service department is every bit as good as their sales department, and the phone # is (303) 539-1700. I'm sure they can help you out!
  • bcme136bcme136 Member Posts: 21

    I called Hyundai they called my dealer told them it's on the Hyundai site. I then called dealer,they went thru a spill about not being on the dealer system however they researched and found it on Hyundai's system. Amazing amount of work the dealer did for me hehe. On order $81.61. I should get 10% senior discount.

    Jeff, as for oil changes, I take my oil (mobile 1)to the dealer. Most dealer will let you bring your own oil.

    Thanks much to both of you!

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Hyundai communications is really messed... order that long number (includes the harness) and you will get the entire HITCH PKG including hitch, receiver, ball, Cover, etc

    The correct HARNESS number has not been in the system since THE HARNESS came out I guess...

    as mentioned, a lot of dealers still do not even know you can buy a P&P harness by itself without the rest of the pkg (OVER $363!)! THEN THEY WANTED OVER $100 TO SCREW THE 4 BOLTS ON AND PLUG IT IN. SENT THE WHOLE THING BACK AND ORDERED THE HARNESS FROM ROSEVILLE CALIF...





    If They could only get their act together. My dealer had just received the correct part Number (AFTER I CALLED CONSUMER AFFAIRS WITH THE XTRA MARKUP IN IT...SO I BOUGHT IT FROM A CALIF DEALER DIRECT!


    The $81.61 is the correct NUMBER though for the plug and play harness so they must have gotten it right! Do check it for the correct plugs BEFORE taking it!

    Here was then the quote from kdahlquist, original post, with the correct part number (harness only) since most dealers still did not know the harness is available by itself.

    "Hyundai has finally released a plug-in trailer wiring harness for the 07 Santa Fe. It is part number U8612-2B000. It's so new that my dealer didn't know it existed, and tried to tell me it didn't. They wanted to sell me part number U8614-2B000, which requires splicing. I told them to check with Hyundai, which they did, and surprise! I was right. The computer showed it in-stock in the warehouse, so I should have it in a few days. Retail price is $81.61."

    btw: WHENEVER I DO ANY OIL CHGS AROUND HERE (LIKE LAWNMOWERS ETC, AND NOW I GUESS THE Santa Fe ITSELF too (another great decision by Reno)....I always took it over to Kragen (less than 1/2 mile away! or Autozone...also accepted for free (they make $$ from waste oil).

    BTW: I guess that getting to 65 (senior discount) is good for something anyway....golden years my [non-permissible content removed]! The only reason to let them do it in the 1st place was so they had records and for the good was NOT for the crummy Quaker StaTe bulk stuFF for sure! BEFORE SYNTHETIC, I TOOK MY 12 QTS WITH CASTEROIL gtx TO THEM FOR DISPOSAL TOO! YEP, MY 81 PORSCHE 911 TOOK 12 QTS OF DINO! *(AND HAD A HUGE RACING SUMP AND FILTER!

  • darryl84darryl84 Member Posts: 4
    This is a trivial concern....I just bought an 07 Limited 2 weeks ago (which I love!) I received a sort of a cargo net, which is standard on the Limited, but what I got is actually a LUGGAGE net, which attaches more like a cover you'd place over items in the cargo space to preventing them from rolling around back there. What I wanted, and was expecting, is the CARGO net that hooks to both sides, as in one that keeps bags of groceries from falling over. The MSRP sticker lists CARGO NET included. I have no use for this type of net they gave me. My dealership tells me they can order an actual CARGO net for me, for an extra $50!!! I plan to go there in person today and express my dissatisfaction and hope they will just swap the 2 nets for me. I just wondered if anyone else has been deceived by this same thing?
  • clg_98taclg_98ta Member Posts: 1
    We just bought an SE. The cargo net was in a bag in the compartment where the jack and lug wrench are located. Did you look there?
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