2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
pocahontas
Member Posts: 802
Here is the new place to discuss your f-series
Super Duty Problems.
Thanks for your participation. ;-)
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host
Super Duty Problems.
Thanks for your participation. ;-)
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host
0
This discussion has been closed.
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#4 of 4: (mikestjames) Thu 14 Dec '00 (04:46 PM)
1999 F250 SD 4x4 Powerstroke with ZF 6-speed
manual transmission. At 51,000 miles, experienced
difficulty getting into 1st from a stop. Dealer
replaced 1st/5th synchro and installed new shift
template. Now (6 months later) bigger problems with
the 6-speed: Came on VERY suddenly, working great
one minute, the next, locked in gear, then can't
get into ANY gear, then can't keep it in 5th (slips
out constatly). Constant grinding between gears
when you CAN shift at all. It's in the shop right
now. No news yet. Anyone having similar
difficulties with the 6-speed ZF? This truck has
ALL highway miles, and has never towed.
PM Tuesday. Replaying video of the truck bellowing smoke 5 times. Wednesday, Lee calls Perez to reconcile this problem and is told "I'm not doing anything for you since the story aired". Thursday, Lee got a threat on his answering machine from Ford Motor Co. "I'll just have Tom Hoff sell your new truck to someone else if you don't accept our offer". Larry Perez continues to side step this problem blaming Lee and making excuses saying ,"Lee refuses to pay up grade charges" " there is nothing wrong with the truck" " all diesels smoke" Lee said "I paid Bo Beuckman Ford $30,000 and they and Ford M
Rob Lee bought a truck. It had problems..
Bo Beuckman Ford dealership is terrible with customer service.. (everyone knows you get 1 free alignment in the first 12k miles)
FoMoCo via arbitration agreement gives him another truck with a charge $1500 additional.. (On top of the extra he is paying for additional options on the new truck). My note: Remember, this is an arbitration agreement, and not a Lemon law case at this time. Rob could have easily declined the arbitration agreement to pursue Lemon law.. It's not stated what the details are which were agreed to in the arbitration agreement, such as depreciation and mileage charges etc..
Rob Lee threatens to go to the press with the story..
FoMoCo folds, and will waive the $1500 if he doesn't go to the press..
Rob Lee runs the story anyway.. Then calls his dealer to see if the dealership will waive the $1500.. (duh)
Dealership says, FU, you aired the story..
FoMoCo says that if Rob doesn't want to pay $1500 thats fine, they can find other buyers for the truck..
Rob goes on to say something else that we can't see, oh well..
So, who is the bad guy here?? Yep, the dealership could have handled themselves better, but it also seems like Rob Lee could have handled the situation better as well..
So, let us know, how does the story end?
This truck has been at Bo Beuckman since April 6, 00 waiting for repair or replacement.
In spite of freezing temperatures Lee hads been out front of Bo Beuckman Ford with an informational picket and says, " If I can keep just one person from the many months of agony and misery Bo Beuckman Ford has caused us, standing in the cold will be worth it"
$30.000
NO TRUCK
Please call Larry Perez 636-227-5700 to show support or TV CH 4 newsroom 314-444-6333 to report a similar problem. Rob Lee 314-412-7016 L.M.
Standing Outside By Rob Lee
Larry P.
Why did you Mess With Me
I came to your store for a truck
Instead got stuck in all of your muck
Must have been some really bad luck
You said get that truck off of my lot, I'm not responsible
I said I don't see how that is possible
To settle this without a fit
I would of put in quite a bit
The press didn't give you time to buy em
Instead you got stymied by them
I guess you took it all pretty hard
I didn't even get a Christmas card
That's were we are today
Maybe this will be over by May
I hope it all comes out of your pay
I really hoped you would handle this with pride
But instead you left us standing outside
If there's one thing I've learned about situations that start to go bad... start taking lots of notes because you can at least have some satisfaction when writing to the BBB, TV stations, who ever! Those Bast***s like Bo Beuckman shouldn't be in business, but, sadly, there seem to be a lot who are.
I've been in the pains you are going through right now Rob, and can only wish you the best of luck!
Problem is, most people who havn't been through it don't understand the true pains you are going through and look at the situation and think "that's not possible!" But it is! And all too often!
No call backs... "There is nothing wrong with your truck. Come and get it off my lot!"... Trying to buy you out from airing the ad. YOU GO Rob! I'd have aired it too (not that you or I could have stopped it from running :-)". I sure hope it impacts his business, runs often, and eventually forces him into bankruptcy!
Well, enough of my sympathies, don't worry, I'll call Mr. BB and tell him what a wonderful dealership he's runnin'. Don't think he'll listen for too long though. :-)
Firewall/clutch problems on 86 F-250 by 1986f250 Jan 15, 2001 (08:42 am)
I recently bought an 86 F-250 and developed problems with the clutch. I have been told this model has a single layer of sheet metal in the firewall. When the clutch is pushed in, the firewall flexes and doesn't disengage the clutch. Is there an after-market fix for this problem or does anyone know of other solutions?
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If it is pulling to one side, first cross the front tires to see if the pull reverses. If so you have a problem with defective tires. See a tire dealer.
If it still pulls the same way, caster and camber can be corrected with an offset bushing on the upper ball joint. Ask your dealer for a printout when they check the alignment. If there are more than very small (less than 1/2 degree) differences between readings from the right and left, a vehicle usually leads toward the side with low caster or high camber.
If your problem is not pulling to one side, but a tendencey to oversteer and weave at high speed, it is most likely the proper proceedure was not followed when installing the alignment bushings, and there is a "bind" in the ball joints. The power steering has to built up more than normal pressure to move the wheels, then moves them too far. Have the dealer check the service manual. A lot of mechanics are not aware of this proceedure or the reason for it.
Harry
I'll follow your suggestions so far, please if you have any more ideas let me know. Thanks
You might want to try this first, as it is a lot easier than what I described above.
With the steering centered in the straight ahead position, loosen the lock nut on the sector adjustment ( the threaded stud with a socket for an allen wrench or slot for a screw driver on top the steering gear) . Draw a mark on the box with a marker for the direction of the screw slot, or allen wrench inserted in the adjuster so that you can return to the original adjustment if needed.
Try to loosen the adjustment one flat referencing the lock nut (1/6 turn.) If it turns easily tighten the lock nut and test drive the truck.
If it is veryhard to turn, turn the steering wheel to the right or left at least a half turn and try again. If it moves easily now, back it off one full turn and recenter the steering wheel. Tighten the adjuster slowly until you just feel resistance, hold it there and tighten the lock nut. If it is still tight "on center" after loosening one turn, try a second turn, center the wheel and slowly tighten.
Test drive again.
In the early nineties, I saw several GM S-10 trucks that the steering gears were adjusted about two flats (1/3 turn) too tight. Loosening that adjustment helped a lot. Ford had some 3/4 ton's with king pins in 84 to 86 that could not be loosened enough to stop binding. They claimed nothing was wrong, but a rebuilt gear fixed them. The way they drove, some guys around here called them "Four drink Fords" because stone cold sober you drove them as you would after four drinks.
If two turns do not releave the bind, return to the original adjustment and argue for a new gear box.
Harry
Harry
Here's the text of TB 01-03-02, hope it helps.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Article No.
01-3-2 STEERING - WANDERING/STIFF STEERING OR POOR RETURN ABILITY AFTER TURNS - 4X4 VEHICLES ONLY
SUSPENSION - WANDERING/STIFF STEERING OR POOR RETURN ABILITY AFTER TURNS - 4X4 VEHICLES ONLY
Publication Date: FEBRUARY 6, 2001
FORD: 1999-2001 SUPER DUTY I SERIES
2000-2001 EXCURSION
ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit stiff steering, wandering, or poor return ability after turns. This may be caused by alignment, steering gear mesh load, or a lower knuckle ball joint that becomes sticky and degrades steering return ability.
ACTION:
Check alignment and check steering gear mesh load or install grease able ball joint and lube every 8000 kilometers (5000 miles) or at every oil change (whichever comes first). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Verify stiff steering, wandering, or poor return ability after turns. Proceed as follows:
Check alignment and correct if not to specification.
NOTE: USE 0.75 DEGREE OR LESS CASTER SLUGS TO CHANGE THE CROSS-CASTER. IF THE CASTER REQUIRES MORE
THAN A 0.75 DEGREE CHANGE YOU MUST USE CASTER WEDGES THAT ARE INSERTED BETWEEN THE AXLE AND LEAF SPRINGS. USE IDENTICAL CASTER WEDGES ON BOTH SIDES TO CHANGE CASTER.
If alignment corrects the condition, return vehicle to customer.
If alignment does not resolve condition, continue to Step 2 (steering knuckle torque to turn test).
Perform the following steering knuckle torque to turn test:
Place vehicle on alignment rack with front wheels on low friction plates. Wheels must be pointing straight forward. Remove tie rod from steering knuckle. Install a nut and bolt into the steering arm hole and tighten.
NOTE: WHEELS MUST BE LOADED AND ON PROPERLY OPERATING TURN PLATES TO PROPERLY CHECK TURNING TORQUE.
Use a click-style torque wrench and position it on the bolt head so that the handle is pointing toward the front of the vehicle. Set the wrench at 135 N-m (100 lb-ft).
Pull on the torque wrench so that you are turning the front wheel outboard.
If the knuckles turn without the wrench clicking, then ball joint turning torque is acceptable. Return vehicle to customer.
If the wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then the torque to turn the knuckle is too high. Continue by replacing ball joints (Step 3).
Perform this procedure on both front wheels.
If the torque wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then replace the lower ball joint with the greaseable Lower Ball Joint (1C3Z-3050-AB) and replace the upper with the current replacement part (F6TZ-3049-AA). Refer to the appropriate model/year Workshop Manual for removal and installation procedures.
Follow this procedure to torque the ball joints after knuckle installation.
Torque lower ball socket nut to 47 N-m (35 lb-ft). Torque upper ball socket nut to 95 N-m (70 lb-ft), then advance nut to the next slot to line up with hole and install
cotter pin. Retorque lower ball socket nut to 190/217 N-m (140/160 lb-ft).
NOTE: THE NEW GREASEABLE LOWER BALL JOINT MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION.
SERVICE SCHEDULE FOR GREASEABLE LOWER BALL JOINT
If a greaseable lower ball joint is installed, it must be serviced per the below schedule:
At every oil change or at 8000 kilometer (5000 mile) intervals (whichever comes first)
The recommended lubricants are:
Premium Long Life Grease (XG-1-C, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C75-B)
Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease (E8TZ-19590-A, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C198-A)
Measure steering gear meshload. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for the procedure for measuring meshload. If it is less than 0.45 N-m (4 lb-in), reset to 0.56-0.68 N-m (5-6 lb-in).
NOTE: THE MESHLOAD MEASUREMENT IS THE AMOUNT OF THE TORQUE INCREASE THAT THE TORQUE WRENCH SHOWS AS THE STEERING WHEEL IS ROTATED THROUGH THE CENTER OF ITS TRAVEL (I.E., IF THE STEERING WHEEL TORQUE TO ROTATE IS MEASURED AT 0.45 N-m (4 LB-IN) ON THE ENDS, AND THEN IT MEASURES 1.13 N-m (10 LB-IN) AS IT IS ROTATED THROUGH THE CENTER, MESHLOAD = 0.68 N-m (6 LB-IN). MESHLOAD = CENTER - END (1.13 N-m - 0.45 N-m = 0.68 N-m OR 10 LB-IN - 4 LB-IN = 6 LB-IN OF MESHLOAD).
Once meshload is OK, procedure is complete. Return vehicle to customer.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
1C3Z-3050-AB Ball Joint - Lower (Greaseable Type)
F6TZ-3049-AA Ball Joint - Upper
XG-1-C Premium Long Life Grease
E8TZ-19590-A Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Servicemmy1.cfm
Use the search on the left hand side that walks you through year, make, model of vehicle.
Use 2000, Fordtruck, f350 Superduty. Look under choice of front suspension.
HIGHER STEERING EFFORTS W/SITTING STILL W/BRAKES APPLIED SOME 1999-2001 SUPER DUTY F-SERIES AND 2000-2001 EXCURSIONS MAY EXHIBIT HIGHER THAN NORMAL STEERING EFFORTS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS AT A VERY LOW SPEED OR STOPPED WITH THE BRAKES APPLIED. THIS IS A NORMAL CONDITION AND MAY BE PRESENT WITH EITHER HYDROBOOST OR VACUUM-OPERATED BRAKES; THEREFORE REPAIR ATTEMPTS SHOULD NOT BE MADE.
This engineering design lacks "quality is job one" in my opinion. I would be interested in knowing if similar owners are experiencing the same problem.
Thank you for your time and attention,
Jim433
cacovey@worldnet.att.net
Even though the truck is still in the Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty Period, Ford has stated that they will do no further warranty repairs. Obviously, this is still up for debate. I suggested that the rotors should be replaced, but that fell on deaf ears.
Look forward to any help you might offer.
dieselguy
With the exception of the trips north in Michigan in the summer and the Texas trip in December,I use the truck to go to and from work on a daily basis; about 12 miles per day at average city driving and speeds of 25 to 35. In the vacation trips I load a truck camper and tow a 22' boat, about 8,000 lbs.
I have 10,500 miles on the vehicle, and while I am not really concerned about the cost of gas, I am not sure if I should be getting better mileage. Is this mpg OK, or what kind of mileage should I be getting given the way I am driving? Can I do anything to improve it?
Sincerely,
Raul
My mileage is usually worse in winter because of winter blend gasoline.
Which rear end do you have? The 4.30 probably does a little worse than my 3.73.
I have
00' F250 xlt SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS rear.
Averaging 15.5 mpgs in mixed city/highway driving.
The V10 is slightly worse (only by 1 or 2 mpgs) when empty..
When towing 4k, I bet the V10 would get about the same mpgs as the 5.4L, maybe even better at times.
It may be that it's OK at 9.2 mpg! Other than this, I and my family enjoy the truck very much.
On another matter, is synthetic oil of MUCH value in this type of a power plant?
There are some dino oils that are actually better than some synthetics..
I'm currently using Amsoil's full synthetic 5w-30, changing the oil every 15k and the filter every 3k. This oil is rated for 25k miles or 1 year. I'm getting ready to do an oil analysis at 8k to make sure Amsoil's really working as well as it claims.
I (with a friends help) accidently dropped a 300lb+ log on the the center of the tailgate.. Granted we didn't drop it far but the whole weight of the log was on the tailgate..
I thought for sure we would have bent it, but its as straight as new.
Needless to say, when I unloaded, I took the tailgate off..
I do have a tailgate protector, like black corregated plastic, on the tailgate to keep it from getting scratched all to crap when sliding stuff in and out.. Maybe this provided a little extra cushion.
the same creaks noise I. had it in 4 times at ford
and it is not gone a way at all. and it is going
back to ford to get it fix
the same noise .Had it in the shop 4 times at ford and is not fix it is going back to ford to be fix thay can not find out what the noise is
I love the truck but not the noise
Haven't had the squeak problem yet. Only a coolant leak.
Last weekend drove 200 miles to a lake with the boat/camper combination. The trip home was hot, in the 90s. Kept the speed at a comfortable 65 mph, 2100 RPM. Soon after arriving home I noticed oil spots on the boat. My first thought was that the engine was blowing oil. Looked underneath the truck, and saw that transmission fluid (red) was dripping from the case. Before I take it to the dealer, has anyone had this experience?
By the way, the three year warranty was up 3 days ago. Lucky me.
I had an old 71 F-250 that I kept losing transmission fluid from and thought I had a bad seal. I got under it, and sure enough, there was transmission fluid on the transmission itself. Then I noticed there was also some further toward the front of the truck under the engine. I found that one of the transmission cooler lines that went to the radiator from the transmission was lying up against the engine oil pan, and, apparently, over a period of time the vibration of driving it had rubbed a small hole in it. It only leaked when it was being driven, and since the hole was against the oil pan it didn't leak much, but would leak down over a period of time. Check where the oil stains start to be sure it isn't one of your coolant lines rather than the transmission.