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Comments
And, on another note, is there any adjustment for the throttle tip-in on the 2000 Forester S. Mine is great except for the unintended jack rabbit starts I make 1 time in 4. Perhaps my feet are too big! If anyone has a cure, please let me know.
paprocki: check the fuel filter and fuel pump. It's probably in the supply. Also look at plugs and plug wires, and consider having the fuel system cleaned.
Steve: if you plan on keeping it for a long time, the water pump can't cost that much to change.
Jack rabbit starts? Got any mods under that hood?
-juice
Craig
-juice
FYI: An independent mechanic can probably diagnois and fix a problem like this far cheaper than the dealer will.
stevev1- Why are you replacing the timing belt? It's not due for replacement yet is it? Regarding the water pump- on many cars you have to take off the water pump to replace the timing belt. Since a good part of the cost associated with replacing the water pump is labor, many mechanics recommend that you go ahead and replace it with the timing belt as a way to save you some money. Also, If you still have the original pump, it's probably not going to last much longer anyway.
-Frank P.
Anyone had/have a similar problem or recommended places to look at? I don't want to keep turning the radio up. This isn't a Halloween spook is it?
Thanks,
Bruno (96 OB)
Have someone stand next to the car, outside, while you pull forward and brake, then pull back and break.
I can see the rear sway bar needing lithium grease, or something in the suspension binding. But inside? How loud?
-juice
Bit
Juice - I did the outside check and nothing doing.
The molding covering the rear shoulder belt was not snapped in tight, but after fixing that didn't seem to make a difference. I've had the rear seat up and down, still there. Does this sound like the dreaded little plastic thingy on the hatch?
Bit - I don't have a moonroof
My passenger is not able to pinpoint the problem, so that's no help, agh!
While I'm on the subject, another noise problem -
I want to disconnect the buzzer that sounds when I have the key in the ignition and the drivers door open (anoying when I'm cleaning and listening to the radio, ...) I've poked my head under the dash a few times but again can't pinpoint the exact location of the buzzer to disconnect. Where exactly is it?
Thanks again,
Bruno
Have someone else drive, and sit in the back. Then listen and try to trace the sound. To test if it's where you think it is, put pressure on it and see if that stops the noise.
It worked for him, even though it was under the hood, but it seems like yours would be easier to find in that manner.
-juice
It's usually located in the B pillar, or wherever the seatbelt spool is.
Craig
I've noticed that when I drive over small bumps quickly (ie. expansion joints on a freeway) I can hear a very light rattle coming from somewhere around the engine compartment area right in front of the front passenger seat or the right-front wheel well area.
It's barely discernable (need to turn off stereo to hear it) but it's a sounds like something is loose. I can't pinpoint if it's from within the engine compartment or from the suspension.
Even though the sound eminates from further up in the vehicle, I've checked my glove compartment to make sure there wasn't something rolling around in it. I also popped open the hood and checked for any loose hoses or clamps -- nada.
Any guesses?
Ken
YetAnotherDave
Bit
Craig
Bit
Still waiting for the replacement strut for the left rear wheel. In the meantime, I'll get our OB cleaned up for a wedding we have to go to 2 hours away from home.
-brian/subearu
Bit: try applying some lube to the moving joints of the hatch. Lithium grease is good.
Brian: hey, finally a service dept that doesn't torque the living daylights out of every bolt. I think spec is 56-75 or something like that, so they were right on.
-juice
I'll check the intake hose, but I have noticed that sound before I did my snorkusectomy.
I'm wondering if it's a loose suspension part.
Ken
It's a creak/groan when the body flexes at slow speed. My hunch is it is a body panel seem or joint. Perhaps it is the interior mounting of the roof rails. Should I bother taking this to the dealer and will they actually be able to do anything about it?
Bit
-juice
When new, the car did not do this. The chassis has "loosened up" a bit.
-Colin
Bit
Bit
This has been happening on my '00 Outback as well, since I got the car, but I never paid attention to it, because I wasn't planning to sell it.
Well the car is over a year old now, so I'm doubting my Subaru dealer will fix the rotors. I'll ask them but .. in the meantime, how much does it cost to get rotors turned?
thanks, ash
A friend of mine who owns a 00 Forester S had a similar problem where applying brakes at highway speeds caused a vibration in the steering column.
The first time he took it in, the dealer told him the rotors were warped and straightened them under warranty.
Unfortunately, the problem came back after a couple months. This time, the dealer examined the rotors and told him that they weren't warped. The dealer re-balanced the tires instead but that didn't seem to help either.
Ken
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement end cap? SOA only sells the entire unit.
CJ
Does the cargo net stretch across the back from side to side or what? Is it a useful item or something you wonder why you bought it?
The Draw-tite hitch website doesn't show a model for the Forester now. Does anyone know if it is discontinued? Has anyone put on a Hidden Hitch? The Subaru hitch is so badly priced compared to aftermarket even if I install myself which I could also do with aftermarket.
Thanks for the answers that I know will flow.
Cheers, Al
1) Hood Deflector - I think that it does prevent stone damage. I've had my Forester for 2 months now (deflector has been on for 1 month). Only 1 chip I noticed yesterday, but it was on the right door, below the mirror. Not to sure about the bug aspect, but it does seem to keep the windshield clearer. It both clips and screws, but no drilling is required and the screws hold together metal clamps the sandwitch the metal under the hood. Open your hood, see the retangular openings on each side??? Two hood deflector brackets mount there. The deflector does "rest" against the paint - small rubber tabs stuck onto the underside of the deflector rests against small clear thick plastic "tape" that is applied to the hood. Clips go near the end of the each side and clip the deflector to the hood. No wind noise (it actually eliminated a whistling I had in the left mirror. It can be easily removed for washing or you can leave it on and wash underneath (it sits about 1/4 inch above the hood. The part closest to the windshield flares upward to about an inch above the hood.
2) The cargo net does stretch across from side to side. To mount it, you have to drill two holes on the inner panels, so you can mount a hook on either side. It is useful, as it prevents small items from sliding around, although it can get in the way if you're loading and unloading stuff that is not in the net. A better net would be one that lays out flat on the floor, allowing items to be held underneath and without getting in the way when loading and unloading stuff.
-Tony
I still have a question about floor jacks and jack stands. I jacked the front (1 side at a time) by placing my floor jack under the forward end of the frame rail. But in the rear I ended up using the Soob jack as I wasn't sure where to put the floor jack or jack stands. I'm a little unsure about where to jack it up at the rear dif and even when I do where do I place the stands? And is it really okay to use the center engine crossmember as a jacking point?
I'll offer a different opinion about the wind/bug deflector. I had one for my 98 Forester, but I removed it because I felt there were more drawbacks than advantages. The deflector does protect the leading edge of your hood but not the rest of it. I found that small rocks were getting "jettisoned" on a higher trajectory due to the deflector and landing up higher on my hood.
Also, I found that the deflector was causing my side mirrors to vibrate at speeds around 80mph - a minor annoyance.
Finally, what I didn't like about the deflector is that it phyiscally clamps onto the paint on your hood. While the deflector comes with 3M tape to protect the paint, I found the tape begins to wear after several removal/attachments. I noticed that the clips actually left very light scuff marks after a while.
Ken
I use Rhino Ramps, $30 at Wal Mart, unless you need the wheels off the ground.
Then use a hydraulic jack under the rear differential. With that jack I use a short piece of 2x4 wood to prevent any damage. You can even cut a channel in the wood if you want to use the jacking points Subaru recommends, and to keep it from slipping. Regardless, ALWAYS use jack stands as well. I usually find a suspension mount.
ash: I'd expect rotors to be covered under warranty. Pads, no, but rotors, at least under normal use.
CJ: you can e-mail Darlene and ask her if she sells the part separately, or has any other ideas.
Sorry, Al, but for once I can't even offer an opinion. I don't have the hood deflector, and my cargo net is an aftermarket item (though I paid MORE than Darlene charges for the OE item, DOH!). Finally, I have the OE hitch, and haven't seen a Hidden Hitch.
-juice
-mike
-juice
I actually just sent Tom an e-mail. I'm supposed to go back to the dealer tomorrow for them to have another look at it. Since the weather cooled down, the squeak hasn't been as bad or not there at all. That has been the case for the past couple of years. It only happens when it's warm and at least a little humid.
Dennis
Craig
OE it is, then. Even with the wait.
-juice
When I tried to back out of my parking space, it dragged terribly. (I got out and looked to see if I had a flat tire.) Then when pulling forward, same thing. After backing in and out of my space I came to the conclusion that everything with the engine seems fine, it just takes alot of rpm's to get it to move, and it seemed that one side is not operating in conjunction with the other side. Most of the problem seemed to be when the wheels are cut, but I did not drive it far enough to say that for sure.
I called AAA and the Subaru dealer, who immediately gave me the third degree about my 30,000 mile transmission fluid replacement. (Which my warranty handbook calls "Inspect")
Of course, I am now waiting on a phone call to fill me in on what they think is wrong, and fear some big, costly differential or transmission expense.
Any tips? Renee
I can't see how the ATF would cause something like that.
-juice
Bit
1. There seems to be a lot of "confusion" about the spark replacement schedule and the type of plug used in this car, and I would suppose the 99 Legacy as well. My Subaru 1999 Warranty & Maintenance book calls for 60 THOUSAND MILE spark plug replacement on page 42. Go to the Subaru of America website and access the 1999 maintenance schedule. The official SOA website specifies a 30 THOUSAND MILE spark plug replacement. Go to the 1999 Forester Owner' Manual. On page 10-18 Champion RC10YC4 or NGK BKR5E-11 are specified. Why?. Neither of these plugs are platinum tipped. However my local dealer recommends platinum tipped plugs (at $72 for a set of four) owing to the extended 60 THOUSAND MILE replacement interval. Yesterday I personally replaced the spark plugs in my Forester at 57,000 miles. I found the original factory installed Champion BKR5E-11 plugs. ).
If you have a 99 Subaru you may have non-platinum tipped plugs in your engine. If that is the case, in my opinion, I would change then at 30,000 miles and install platinum tipped spark plugs. With the platinum plugs installed I would then go to a 60,000 mile mile replacement schedule.
2. The Phase I engines (98 Forester) have extremely difficult to reach spark plugs so Subaru decided to go with platinum tipped models to allow for a 60K maintenance schedule. The Phase II engines (99 and later Foresters) were redesigned with easier access so they use standard plugs.
After reading these notes I went out to check my plugs and sure enough they were the regular non-platinum plugs even after my dealer and service techs had told us when we purchased our 99 Forester that the forester came with platinum and should have to be replaced for 60,000 miles, though I wouln't wait that long any way.
I have found a dealer that sells both Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch for the Forester with no drilling required--a Class II hitch and much less eexpensive than OE.
The cargo net is not a big deal one way or the other. If you have it you might use it, if not you'll live.
Thanks to all who responded.
Cheers, Al
Oh well.. I guess smooth is better than not smooth.
-- ash
Renee
Having this repair on record probably means they will replace the rotors next time, if any problems re-occur. You can't machine them more than once or twice.
Craig
Ask her to look at the parts for the 2001 model. Those are neater, and come with a plastic surround that matches the color of the body.
Mine are functional, but the black metal doesn't blend in as well. The L-shaped "tangs" bend when you install them.
I've heard people suggest you remove the windshield washer reservoir to change the plugs!
ash: machines rotors are pretty routine. The catch is you can usually only do it once - after that you'd need new rotors. If that happens before you warranty is up, I'd be calling Patti quick!
-juice
Anyhow, it appears that the front end "knock" many of us have noticed in the 2000 Outback is gone in the 2001 model (at least based on my 2000 5-spd versus 2001 auto comparison). Subaru must have made modifications to the front suspension or done something that fixed the problem. The driveway into my local dealer has some pretty sharp 1" steps, and causes the old car's front suspension to rattle quite a bit. Another 2000 model I drove a few months ago did the same thing. The 2001 model I drove this weekend was totally quiet.
Anybody else know about this?
Craig
I get a rattle/squeak type of noise from the rear wheels. If you push down on the rear bumper, you can hear a moan/squeak noise from the struts as the car bounces. Going over certain bumps in the road cause a rattle noise (inside the cabin) from the rear wheels - like it's rapidly bouncing. I cringe as I go over bumps now because of this.
My dealer has the struts on order and will hopefully be replacing them this week.
I seem to remember that when you replace a strut (front or back) that you have to do an alignment. Is that true for our Sube's?
-brian/subearu