Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair

texsubaru

I find the cargo net pretty handy, though it could be a little more useful. I've wondered about drilling a second set of holes with hooks a little over halfway into the cargo compartment so you could place the net in a position where it could help keep items (more or bigger than you could actually fit into the net itself) from rolling around by keeping them corraled into only half the compartment. Just a thought ...

c_hunter

About 3-4 of us here have experienced the front end rattle/knock. Subaru attributes it to the steering rack, but I don't think it's the same noise. It only happens over sharp bumps at low speed, like when entering driveways or driving on a washboard surface, and is independent of steering wheel angle. The knock has a sort of sproing-y tone to it, leading me to think it's a spring or sway bar. There was some talk of re-designed stabilizer links solving the problem, but no concrete info.

If you have a 2000 OB, I'd be curious to know how your front end sounds over sharp bumps at about 10mph. I don't think it's the struts, because the car otherwise rides fine. I do feel like it's hard to keep the car going straight sometimes (seems to require constant correction), and the steering wheel feels numb on-center. The dealer checked the alignment, and it was OK. I suspect the tires, as they seem to have rather sloppy response.

Craig

torek

I have the cargo net but I hardly ever use it myself. I find most stuff stays in place without the net anyway. Occasionally I will have "small stuff" and stick it inside the net, and then it works fine.

I agree with texsubaru: if you could set it up in at least one different position -- preferably, any of several different positions -- to divide up the cargo area, that would be ideal. Of course, moving it around would be a bit of a pain.

Say, that gives me an idea: perhaps a slide-adjustable "net on rails", as it were. Squeeze a couple of clips, slide the net-hooks forward or back in the cargo area on either side, let go of the clips and the spring (inside the clip) clamps onto the rail. Voila, instant moveable nettting. You put your packages into the cargo area pressed against the rear seat-backs, slide the netting back until it holds it in place, and drive! Upon reaching your destination, you slide the netting all the way back to the rear, and unload.

(Say, can I get a patent on this? :-) )

Chris

p0926

I think it's great. It holds a 1/2 dozen of those plastic grocery bags and prevents the contents from scattering all over the cargo floor during "spirited" driving. Hey, if I'm the one buying groceries then I'm entitled to having a little fun right?

-Frank P.

subearu

As far as I can tell, I only get the front end rattle during turns over certain bumps. So, it sounds like it fits the 'steering rack' anomaly. This noise to me is nothing compared to all the racket coming from the rear end of our OB.

After I get the rear struts replaced, I'll focus more on the steering rack noise.

Any way to get the redesigned stabilizer links retro-fitted on '00 models?

-brian/subearu

ateixeira

Frank nailed it - it's great for plastic grocery bags that would otherwise tip over.

Let's not get into the paper-or-plastic debate!

They call for a full alignment when you swap for performance gas struts, but I'm not sure about an OE swap. Can't hurt, I guess.

-juice

2ndwnd

Does anyone know if there are aftermarket air filters availible anywhere yet for 2000 Legacies? Auto Zone doesn't have any. I thought someone here once said K&N had one, and I'd probably get one of those if I could find it. I found an online parts store that sold K&N but they didn't have it for my Sube. I couldn't find the official web site of K&N, although I could have sworn I had been there in the past. Anyway I don't want to have to pay a Subaru Dealer for an original equipment filter, as I'm sure it will be over priced compared to what you can get elsewhere. Thank you for your support.

Dave

subearu

Called the dealer (after not hearing from them in over a week). My left rear strut is still on order. Apparently, they are supplied from Peru and do not know when they will receive it.

I have a strange suspicion that they'll end up replacing the right one as well. But, they won't do that until they 'decide' it's defective as well - when I bring it in to get the left one replaced - hopefully next week.

-brian/subearu

paisan

From my limited knowledge struts/shocks/springs must be replaced in pairs. I'd be super pissed if they didn't replace both of em.

-mike

subearu

I also have heard of replacing them in pairs - especially on FWD cars.

It was originally the left rear having the squeak/rattle. It has now migrated to the right as well.

I haven't been very happy with the service I've received. But, I guess I'm not happy since it's not fixed yet. It's not fixed yet since they're waiting for a part. We love our OB - we just hate having it broken.

My only remaining question is how a strut 'goes bad' in the first place?

-brian/subearu

locke2c

Seals are blown. Usually hitting a pothole or similar traumatic event blows a strut, but if it's a mfg defect it can go through normal use. Oil weeping down the strut body is a common sign of a blown strut.

-Colin

patdad

We've had our 2001 Outback just 5 weeks. During a check of the fluid levels, I figure I'll get adventurous and see if I can actually reach that manual transmission oil dipstick. I don't have arms like an orangutan but, yes I manage to reach it. Much to my surprise, the gear oil is just below the Low mark. Hmmm.. maybe I should check it after it's warmed up. So I drive it and check it hot. Same reading.

So I want to top it off. But with what? I call my selling dealer, and I'm told that they just put in whatever gear oil they have in their big drum. Same story at other dealers (one told me they use 30w motor oil). But I want to add to the factory gear oil with the same stuff. I call the trusty 1-800 SoA number and they tell me that in fact Subaru sells a specific gear oil, part number SOA635007. Call the dealers again, nobody stocks it. I call Darlene at Qsubaru and she tells me that the SoA gear oil is in fact Havoline from Texaco, 80-90w.
Call SoA again, confirm that the factory oil is in fact Texaco supplied (just checking...). Score one for Darlene vs. local dealers.

Anyway I'll go find some Havoline to top off my transmission. But here's my question: should I switch to synthetic? If so, when? Now? After 1000 miles? At a later mileage? And of course, which one will prolong the longevity of my transmission bearings and synchros AND will improve shifting a bit?

patdad

I should have mentioned that I don't intend to add synthetic to the factory oil. If I swicth, I'll drain the factory oil first (if I can figure out where the transmission drain plug is)

paisan

I'd be flipping if it was down that much already in 1000 miles. I'd be screaming bloody murder to my selling dealer. That's just me though.

-mike

subearu

I'd have to guess it's a mfg defect. Our '00 OB only has just over 3000 miles since we took delivery at the end of this July.

When I did a visual of the suspension parts (when I first noticed the problem), I did see what appeared to be seepage on the strut piston (or whatever it's called). So, again, I'd say these are just defective from the start.

Anyway, once these get replaced, I'm sure I'll be just as happy as the day we took delivery.

-brian/subearu

katie00

I'm new to this town conference so I hope I'm doing this right. I bought my 2000 Impreza Wagon (not outback) in January 2000. Since then it was in the shop for 2 weeks because I couldn't get more than 50 cents of gasoline in the tank - I was told there was a rag in the tank that had to be cut out. My rear window went up too far and I couldn't close the door without the window sticking over the rubber gasket. My newest problem is the wheel bearings. At 5000 miles I took it in for state inspection and after that I heard a whining noise in the back. They told me the right wheel bearing was bad, then they discovered the left was bad also - this took a week to fix. They told me the reason it took so long is that this is a new car so the parts are not easily available. Is this true? Now at 7500 miles the rear left wheel bearing is bad again. They're going to replace it and the spindle too (whatever that is). I don't know how long this will take. Am I alone with these problems? Everyone else I talk with that has a subaru loves it. It's nice they give me a loaner car but it's not the same as having my own car. Are subaru parts that hard to get?

c_hunter

I believe there is a known issue with rear bearings on the Forester, and maybe it applies to the Impreza wagon too (since they are offshoots of the same platform). These boards are kind of deserted now, but if you wait a day or two, somebody will know for sure!

BTW, the current Impreza wagon has been around for eons, so parts should not be that hard to come by. Maybe they are using this as an excuse.

Craig

patdad

> I'd be flipping if it was down that much already > in 1000 miles. I'd be screaming bloody murder to > my selling dealer. That's just me though.

I'm thinking it was filled low at the factory. It's not leaking as far as I can tell.

grahampeters

Katie

#1151 of 1153: Wheel Bearings (katie00) Fri 03 Nov '00 (06:27 PM)

Sounds odd. Most posts on these boards are of far more mundane problems although the wheel bearing one has come up before. Patti from SOA looks in on the Subaru Crew - Meet The Members (Topic #20) board very regularly and appears to have an excellent track record on sorting problems (bless her).

Mind you even the best reputed manufaturers have occasional problems. I had a real Monday or Friday car previously (German made) and it was a constant worry.

Hope you get things sorted

Cheers

Graham

rowlandj

I already do my own oil/filter changes on my 2000OB. Since I am coming up on the transmission and spark plug change mileage I am wondering how easy it is to perform this work on this model.

Anyone with any experience willing to share comments and observations?

Thanks to all,

John R.

hammersley

Don't know how much it relates to more current models, but I used AmsOil in the manual box in my '78 Sube Coupe, and noticed 2-3mpg improvement, as well as substantially easier shifting in cold weather... sounds like a good opportunity to try synthetic, since it's low already... soon as it stops raining, I may go check mine too!

Cheers!
Paul

lark6

Hi,

Katie and c_hunter: Yes, there's a known problem on Forester rear bearings. I've had mine replaced twice in 13,xxx miles. Part of the problem (if not most of it) is how they're installed - if they're torqued down too tightly they get mashed and malformed, leading to premature failure. Darlene at Qsubaru alerted me to it, I filed a complaint with SoA, and Patti and crew worked directly with the dealer to supervise the correct installation of the new bearings. 1,500 miles later and no problems; I just hope it stays that way or else fails while still under warranty.

My 2 cents,
Ed

hammersley

is:
www.knfilters.com


Schuck's Auto Supply has 'em... if you have a Schucks!

Cheers!
Paul

2ndwnd

>>Schuck's Auto Supply has 'em... if you have a
Schucks!<<


No Schucks Auto Stores, but we do have Schnucks Super Markets. Guess I'll have to buy online.

Dave

patdad

Juice,

Yep, we're practically neighbors here in the DC burbs.

I've already got 1K on the clock, I'll see if I can find a definitive recommendation for when to switch to synthetic.

Why do you think the manual transmission oil change on the Outback will be more difficult than on a Miata?

paisan

My throttle response on the Trooper is just as fast as the one on my non-drive-by-wire '97 Rodeo. It may even be a hair faster!

-mike

ateixeira

James: I believe it was ramon that told me that. He saw the instructions for the Miata and said they seemed much easier than his swap to synthetic on an OBS.

I imagine the Soob trannies are very similar from one model to the other.

Hey - you can be the first and then let us know!

-juice

ateixeira

That's pretty cool, bit.

I just use a piece of pressure treated wood with a channel cut in it, but the saddle is probably safer. Always use jack stands for safety.

-juice

subearu

Today, our dealer replaced both rear struts on our OB. Both had begun leaking at the tops of the strut pistons. And the ride was becoming very bouncy.

Now it rides very quietly and the ride is firm/solid. No rattles or squeaks.

They originally were going to replace just the left one, but I mentioned the right one had started having the same symptoms. Luckily, they had another strut in stock and replaced both. It's the first he's seen of this problem.

I can only think that this defective set of struts has been slowly progressing (from bad to worse) during our 3 months of ownership. It must have been subtle at first, but it was during the last month or so that it became really noticeable to us. I don't remember it riding as nice as it does now!

Anyway, we're happy with our wagon again. Also talked to the service manager about the occasional brake squeal/squeak some of us have heard. He did the cleaning and also recommended an occasional hard stop now and then. He mentioned that the pads are glazing and that's causing the noise. I'll have to further research that since my brakes are not making the noise at this time.

-brian/subearu

locke2c

How to un-glaze pads:

Remove wheels. Remove pad. Sand lightly on pad with paper or smooth file. (DO NOT BREATHE PAD DUST. It's probably not asbestos but it's still not a good idea.) Reinstall.

Drive out slowly and make SURE brakes work. After this is confirmed, find an open stretch of unused road. Accelerate to 30MPH and panic stop. Do NOT keep foot on brake pedal after coming to a complete stop-- rotors will cool unevenly and warp. Repeat until brakes are VERY stinky and some pad fade is felt.

Drive home carefully and park for at least 4 hours. Pads are now bedded in.

-Colin

ateixeira

Brian: glad to here the saga is resolved.

Springs actually absorb impact, while shocks or struts control the spring's motion. Bad struts won't do that, so the spring will keep rebounding, and it'll feel more or less like a Buick!

Colin: is that what shops call "scruffing" the pads?

My Miata's pads have plenty of life, but they squeek a bit. Think that'll help?

-juice

c_hunter

Hey guys,

Here's a tip from a trusty old mechanic I used to know: a quick way to clean out brakes is to get going in reverse at a pretty good clip, and then hit the brakes hard. If your brakes are squeeking due to dust build up, this should take care of it. It's especially useful for drum brakes. Won't help if the pads are glazed though.

Craig

tropicalaurs

both washer pumps are dead - front and back. Dealer who said they would order ($110+) has not followed up in three months.

Any source recommendation appreciated. Willing to buy from online supplier.

--Need front & read Windshield Washer Pumps for '98 Outback.

Tropicalaurs@hotmail.com

texsubaru

Somewhat off-topic since it involves our '91 Mazda 626 and not our Subaru, but thought I'd check in with you guys first: Our 626 started idly extremely roughly, with the "Check Engine" light sometimes winking on while at stoplights. We took it to the shop Friday and ended up only getting a short message after the close of business that we needed a new throttle body and that it (apparently just the part alone, but the message didn't really specify) cost a whopping $780. It sounds reasonable, given the symptoms, that the throttle would be involved, but I've never had any problem with a throttle body before, so I'm hazy on what I'm dealing with here. So:
1) Just what the heck is a "throttle body" and what exactly does it do?
2) How difficult should one be to replace?
3) Does $780 sound as ridiculously high to anyone else as it does to me?
4) Can anyone recommend a Mazda equivalent to Darlene at QSubaru to contact for a parts quote?
5) And if anyone has better suggestions for where to post these questions, I'd be interested in those.

texsubaru

Well, since posting that I found a short but decent throttle-body-for-dummies explanation in an old Cartalk column. Makes a lot of sense. Not sure exactly how much it helps me, though, since the column's specific problem -- a Mazda 626 idling way too fast -- was the precise opposite of ours.

paisan

If I recall correctly, a throttle body is basically a cross between a carburator and fuel injection. I know carbs are around $400 so $780 for a throttle body isn't out of the question.

-mike

ateixeira

http://www.roebuckmazda.com/ is the Darlene-equivalent for Mazda. Well, not quite the same level of service, and they do charge for shipping.

There is a 626 topic under Sedans, but it's not nearly as active as the Crew.

I'm not an expert on throttle bodies, since I've never had to touch one. Our 626 had a major power loss, and it turned out the fuel injectors were clogged. We cleaned those, changed the plug wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and it was resolved for under $400.

-juice

miksmi

tex, I'm not a mechanic so take these words with a grain of salt. My wife's 91 Legacy L wagon idled cyclicly -- rev to 2,000rpm, drop to 500rpm, almost stall, rev to 2K, then repeat (800rpm was nominal). The IACV, or idle air control valve, became gummed up by fuel impurities. Upon the suggestion of Matt Scicchitano (shik) on Ultimate Subaru Message Board (he's also on i Club), I sprayed an entire can of carburator cleaner into the IACV. This helped for a while but eventually the IACV must be replaced. It's more pronounced in winter (mild in DC).

What does this have to do with your throttle body? Perhaps it too has become gummed up with fuel deposits. You might be able to clean it but I wouldn't be suprised if you have to replace it in the end (again, I'm guessing). In the 00 GT, I add a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner to the fuel (whenever I think of it -- haven't come up with a regular interval but I think once a quarter would be good). Hopefully someone mechanically enabled will have a suggestion for you. (Also try searching USMB, link above).

..Mike

ateixeira

Use techron or a similar fuel injector cleaner at least every 30k miles, though you may want to use it at every oil change if the gas you use doesn't have a good detergent.

-juice

rangerron7

Hi All,
I've got a '00 OB with about 4500 miles on it and I love it so far. The only problem I have with it is the paint. I just got back from a weekend trip and put about 450 miles on it that were mostly interstate driving. Although, I tried to distance myself from the big 18-wheelers I have 4 paint chips (obviously from stones kicked up) on the front downward sloping section of the hood. This is the painted METAL section of the hood and not the vinyl cladding on the front bumper.
My question is if anyone has the vinyl hood protector that's shown in the OB Accessories pamphlet? I'm not interested in the full bumper and hood covering "bra" but just the piece that is separately sold to protect the front part of the hood. Anyone have any thoughts whether good or bad? I'm probably order from Darlene if it's a worthwhile purchase.
Thanks,
RangerRon

ateixeira

RR: I've seen Garry's (SCOA pres), though his is an earlier Legacy.

It fastens to the bottom with self-tapping screws (they may be torx types) and uses spacers to keep from scratching the hood. It had a good OE fit to it, too.

-juice

paisan

I swear by the bug deflector/stone guards that attach to the hood. I've had em on my Rodeo and Trooper and they've saved me from major scratches on both of them. OEM ones are the best bet.

-mike

dalelynn

Just passing along some tips on tire care:

Evaluate the need for snow or ice tires. All-season and all-terrain tires do not perform well in all conditions. To be most effective, snow tires should be mounted on all four wheels.

Keep tires properly inflated as specified in the owner's manual. Use a quality gauge (not the one at the gas station) and check tires when they are cold -- pressure can increase up to 8 psi when tires are warm from driving.

Check the spare tire to make sure it is inflated properly; make sure your lug wrench is in the trunk; and carry a tripod-type jack for safer tire changes on slippery surfaces.

ateixeira

That's right. You lose 1 psi for every 10 degree drop in temperature.

That means that a Forester properly set at 29/29 psi for the summer (92 degrees) can drop dangerously low to 23/23 psi in freezing weather (32 degrees).

Mine was fine, but the wife's car was way low, down to 22psi on a very cold morning! I'm glad I checked!

-juice

aussieroo

recommend a bottle of Subaru (of course)fuel additive every 6000km.

Is it the same in the states??

gus

rangerron7

So I take it that the hood protector actually FASTENS to the hood? I thought it was secured with elastic like some of the old car "bras" that were sold which did not require drilling holes. Juice, Do you have any concerns about drilling self-tapping screws into the hood? I'm a little leary.
Thanks again

paisan

On my two troopers, there are pre-drilled holes in the underside of the hood where you insert a rubber grommet and then screw the screws into them, and they tighten up. It was a "No drilling" method. Bras on cars wear the paint away like sand paper unless you clean it weekly.

-mike

subearu

I installed one on our OB in September. It requires no drilling. The plastic screws it uses mount to existing pre-drilled holes in the hood. Look for yourself - they're about 3 inches in from the front of the hood, just over the head lights.

The rest of the installation is a snap, literally. The spot between the headlights and the grill gets snapped into place with a plastic fastener.

Rubber/plastic 'bumpons' are provided for the deflector. They prevent the deflector from actually coming in contact with the hood. 3M plastic tape is provided to place on the hood itself directly under where the 'bumpons' are.

As far as driving with it: I've driven at speeds of 80 MPH with it and haven't seen it wiggle at all. It is a tad hard to clean under it with it installed, but a cloth with fit beneath it. It also can be removed in about 2 minutes if you need to. Since it's fastened under the hood, you need not worry about it being stolen - unless they open your hood.

-brian/subearu

crashton6

My rule of thumb. Bottle of Techron with each oil change.
Chuck

texsubaru

Yeah, we use Techron pretty regularly. I don't think the 626's current ills are clogged injectors, anyway.
FYI: Best price quote on a 626 throttle body so far was $630 from www.mazdadiscountparts.com, based in Cincinnati, Ohio. (About $50 less than Roebucks).