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Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

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Comments

  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Mixing brands of petroleum based oil from the big oil companies is safe to do, although some argument can be mounted that the additive packages may diminish each other to some degree. Consider that you might one day need to add one or two quarts at a lonely gas station in the middle of nowhere, and they don't have your brand. You buy what they sell, and you pour it in. No big deal. Your Exxon and their Quaker State will mix very nicely until the next oil change. Surely, this is not a problem!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I would have preferred the Delvac 1 as I believe it is superior to the Rotella. Could not find the Delvac in my area. But since I will compare them with an analysis it doesn't matter which I use first.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Yes, based on the data sheets Delvac 1 has an edge. That said, I'm almost certain that you can't find Delvac 1 for anywhere near the price of the Rotella Synthetic. I'm confident the Rotella will be more than adequate for the driving conditions my wife's 5er will encounter. In any event, I look forward to seeing your results of the analysis of both oils.
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    care to explain the real difference of dry sump lubrication vs wet sump lubrication, does one hold an advantage over the other?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Are you referring to 2 cycle engines where the oil is mixed with the fuel. Load is limited because of cooling and lubrication considerations in mains, big end and small end rod bearings. Thats the best I can do.
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    Well the two guys I work with have an on going argument about which is better. One owns a vw and claims its better. I have heard of dry sumps im motor cycles but not cars. Im trying to put it to rest but these guys are driving me nuts. Im the one who ends up with the head ache ha ha ha.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    who's making that one 5 w30 syntetic tech 2000 ?

    Do you think its the same supplier in Canada ?

    Thanks
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I was in West Yellowstone and a quart low. Checked in the back, and forgot that I had switched to Valvoline Synblend in that car from QS Synthetic. The only type available in the correct weight was Valvoline conventional. So the current mix has Valvoline conventional, Durablend, and Synpower in it.

    My Subaru mechanic recommends a heavier oil and last year I ran 5W-50 on the same trip and got 27 Miles Per gallon on a pure synthetic. This year I ran the 10W-40 concoction that is now mostly conventional and found that I got 30 MPG on the average. So it's clear to me that the weight of the oil definitely makes a difference on gas mileage. It's also just as clear that the engines are better protected with higher weight oils since they run much quieter since I started using the heavier weights.

    I moved to the Valvoline Blend since the 40 weight blend and synthetic oil pass the tough European tests in durability.

    I'm currently very happy with the 10W-40 combination for my Subaru. It just runs smoother with the heavier weight. Since it's a small engine it works very hard. It was a good recommendation from my Subaru specialist mechanic.

    However, my Mazda runs very well with it's recommended 5W-30 that my Mazda specialist mechanic also recommends in that one due to valve lifter issues.

    Apparently the balance is different for different vehicles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    dry sump is just a remote oil reservoir basically. Porsche has used this for years, among many other imports and of course motorcycles.

    I think dry sump offers some advantages under certain conditions regarding both ground clearance and high speed maneuver, but the average car doesn't really need it, nor would it benefit from it, that I can see.
  • chem123chem123 Member Posts: 272
    Doesn't it also reduce oil starvation in long, high-speed sweeper type situations and deliver oil more effectively?
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    Thank you, Ive been trying to clear this up for a long time. Now I can put it to rest with the know it alls I work with.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    chem--that's what I said....high speed maneuver, that's right--to forestall oil starvation.

    Yeah, caesar, just tell them that it's a good idea for those long-slung exotics pulling close to 1g on turns (or more in race cars); also on road cars eliminating the oil pan allows perhaps a lower profile for the engine compartment. So it might even have a subtle effect on styling.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    all the Wal-Marts in the U.S. have the same source for the house brand oil. So it's doubtful in Canada it would be the same as a specific U.S. wally world oil. That being said, I'm just as sure it's a good oil.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    In U.S. is made by the Specialty Petroleum plant in Shreveport. The plant was purchased by Quaker State before QS was combined with Pennzoil (soon to be Shell). Additional capacity may be handled by a Warren Petroleum plant. I understand that the group 3 syn. is made by the same plant. Someone several months ago posted old synthetic spec. sheets. The rest of us have been able to get SJ spec. sheets from Pz/QS but nothing later.

    Someone on Bobistheoilguy did testing on the SuperTech group 3 syn. and it appeared to hold up quite well. I think moly. showed up in the test. Interesting if accurate and not something left over.

    It's interesting that they still call it Tech 2000 in Canada, the name changed in the U.S. about three years ago.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    on that oil analysis with chevron supreme SL?
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Can anyone here confirm ISO 100 crankcase oil is SAE 30W non detergent oil.

    thanks
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    Thanks for the effort guys,I will stick to Mobil since it is so hard to find the roots of that wally mart
    oil...
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    the Wal-Mart synthetic is a group III base oil unlike Mobil 1. This may or may not mean something to you. It does mean that it is not what was considered a sythetic oil a few years ago to most syn users.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    You got my attention now , can you go deeper in your explanation of " It does mean that it is not what was considered a sythetic oil a few years ago to most syn users "
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I'm assuming that malachy72 is referring to the recent advances in petroleum cracking (strongly attributed to Chevron) whereby the final product that is desired is made by fracturing long petroleum molecules down to specific, desired lengths. The other way to get there is to synthesize those desired molecules-- build them up by linking together shorter chains.
    The first way is called cracking, while the second way is called synthesis. The name implies the means to the end.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    in a nutshell. Look under the synthetic oil topic on this board for the discussion explaining it all. Has mostly to due with what is referred to as base oil classification:

    Group I
    " II
    " II+
    " III
    " IV
    " V

    Check out the links to Bobistheoilguy's board for deep digging explanation.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    now that you have Chevron Supreme SL in the crankcase, are you still adding STP blue or equivalent at oil change?
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    My SL grade oils remain "downline" on the expansive lubrication shelves in my garage. >:o] I am currently pressing my way through my remaining overstock of SJ Exxon I bought before the turn of the century. Back then, AutoZone was selling it in 5 quart jugs for five bucks with a Deutsch (Champion) filter thrown in. I am "experimenting" with both STP and the Walmart equivalent that sells for half the price. So far, I have been able to determine only that I really must stop buying bargains on oil. I am out of shelf space. All other scientific conclusions remain elusive!
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    you sound like me. I just took inventory after an oil change two weeks ago. I had 60 quarts of oil in my garage, unopened.

    Roughly 48 quarts of Mobil 1 and Shell Rotella T Synthetic and the rest was Valvoline Maxlife.

    TB
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    and I thought 10 in the garage was bad. Gets hard to refuse great sales sometimes.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    about bypassing 3.5 qts of SJ oil in order to put in the Chevron Supreme SL 10-30. It will probably end up in a short drain interval on an '88 civic wagon that has been sitting for a few weeks due to lack of a/c. I might add rislone to clean up any varnish or deposits, run for 1.5 to 2k drain and refill with chevron /havoline for the winter when the car is used more often as it's AWD. Just a thought. BTW fleetwood, you seem to have more Chevron than I see when I visit Wal-Mart. It is very scarce.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    If I could just find a petrologist with a specialty in oil hoarding anxiety syndrome, I might be helped. But no sooner did I break off with the AutoZone Exxon thing, then the Checker Chevron/Havoline thing loomed up to haunt me.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Was running a bit short on oil-had a few minutes before a meeting and stopped by a Kmart and discovered somebody had put the wrong price on a whole end cap of Castrol 5-30. think it was 79 cents/quart. Grabbed a cart-loaded about 50 quarts into the cart and proceeded up front-asked the cashier to check the price-came up 1.29-got the manager and rolled the whole bit back to the end cap and got my 79 cent price. That is about a year's worth for me-take the used oil to a local car dealer who heats his garage with it-always have managed to find someone wanting the stuff to use for heating.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    It's entertaining to really shop the big outfits, and collect up meaningful supplies. My way is to pull out the Sunday advertising supplements for chain store automotive, electronic, and whatever. I consider myself to be an opportunistic buyer. You can save a lot if you buy when the price is right, and set aside the product a while, until you need it. Some would argue the point of the cost to you for spending your money ahead of time, rather than gaining interest on it. Hey, I'm talking about prices cheap enough to negate any such a counterpoint.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    those sunday ads are online now.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    as I'm now supplying the guy who does most of the work on my older cars with oil. He was paying $16+ for CAM2 and I'm bringing him Citgo Superguard for $12 a case. Part of a barter deal.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I like that! What we consider to be a "hobby" area (acquiring oil at low cost, for one) others may consider a drudgery. Good for you, figuring out a way to make a deal with that guy; and he gains by using what is likely a far better product at considerable savings. What exactly is CAM2?
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    If you put in a search on google, you'll find they even have a web site. I believe the equivalent at Sam's club is "Certified" motor oil, selling at $9.49 a case. And something deep down inside me tells me that it probably would perform just about as well as any oil given 3k changes. I'll have to see if google turns up anything on 'certified'
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    I bought for him were ESSO UNIFLO SL. It is distributed by Exxon lubricants in Virginia, but refined in Canada. Couldn't find updated specs on the SL rated oil, only the SJ. The data sheets for Imperial Oil co. in Canada were over a year old.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    oil changes on my best bud's '90 Riviera. He said he really like the Max-life 10-40 put in 3k miles ago. I suggested we go with the Pennzoil High Mileage 10-30 formula this go round. Car has about 130k on it. He keeps it pretty cherry. Any ideas?
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Suggest that he trade it in for a new WRX Subaru.(:oÞ
    Notice: This is humor!
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    machine. I've read where they can go 0 to 60 faster that an Audi Quatro with 6cyl. I could talk him into it, but I do have reservations about the Sube's quality. I owned one 20 years ago, my niece had one 15 years ago and neither had the quality of a Honda. I'll reserve judgment on this new generation until owners check in after a few years of operation. (:>
  • billflemingbillfleming Member Posts: 3
    I must admit that I know ZERO about synthetic oils. But, are there any environmental issues, pro or con for synthetics?
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    On the other hand, your friend could turn that Buick into a low rider, eh?
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    Some time back I said I would do a 5K analysis of Chevron Supreme 10W-30 SL. I changed my oil today at lunch and will send it off tomorrow and post the results here for all to comment. Supertech filter and 5,033 miles. Very curious to see the results. Back in a week or so.
  • pdalpsherpdalpsher Member Posts: 136
    Last week I also mailed in a Chevron 10/30 SL to Blackstone. This is from a Toyota V6 and the oil has 3800 miles on it. My dealer's bulk oil was shot at 2800 miles so I'm hoping providing my own oil for the changes gives me better results. I'll also post some information...this is the first time I've used Blackstone so I'm not sure what the turn-around will be.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    Any late news on the Chevron Supreme oil analysis?
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    thru all the posts to see if waldo mart super tech oil has ever been discussed.

    Seems like the 2002 version of the oil would be fine for my old 94 Camry.
    or are there quality control issues due to the low cost?
    Anyone used it for a long time?
    Consumer reports said all (API graded) oils were the same and should be purchased on price.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I would agree to the extent that all API graded oils meet certain critical standards, and any should suffice for most any application. Perhaps some of the better oils, such as Chevron/Texaco will give even more benefits. I guess it is arguable!
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    sounds like the st v other oil filters argument.

    who makes the st oil?

    My big worry would be the quality control - batch to batch, not the basic specs
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Has been discussed quite thoroughly here and on Bobistheoilguy...

    It's made by a Pennzoil/QS subsidiary called Specialty Petroleum in Shreveport. I think the base oil is Exxon-- definitely not Pennzoil since they don't have any excess capacity. To my untrained eye the specs look about as good as Quaker State, better than Wolf's Head, but not as good as Pennzoil. I use it because $11.94 is a good price for oil changes and it's bottled, hence better control and less risk of contamination than bulk oils. I always insist that a ST filter be substituted for the crap Fram.

    Here's ST SJ compared with the other PZ/QS 10W30 SL oils. I'd expect the SL specs to be slightly better:

    10W30 SuperTech Pennzoil Quaker St. Wolf's Head
    Visc. 40c 73.2 67.0 69.1 65.3
    Visc 100c 11.0 10.5 10.5 10.5
    Visc. Indx 140 160 139 138
    Flash-F 410 430 410 430
    Pour-F -29 -33 -22 -17
    Low Pumping-C -25 -30 -22 -30
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    thanks
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I really need some help here. We have all seen the coming and going of the topic concerning Ford (and Honda, as well) mandating 5W-20 oil for their new vehicles. I read the findings posted by everyone, but assumed it would not effect MY life. Wrong! I have just purchased a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 4.6L V8. It is supposed to use that oil, as I understand. Did anyone present evidence as to whether the engine really needed 5W-20, or did someone post that Ford only recommends it, while saying 5W-30 is okay? I will search the owners manual as well. Any help will be appreciated.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    There are a number of forums on this general topic @ http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
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