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Nissan Maxima



  • frank, you are beginning to sound like whacko, except he does a much better job at humor, lol...

    Short trips are always hard on the engine, you can find about it in every manual. And shutting off an engine that has not been warmed up is harder yet. I am wondering if that's what you wanted to know, though...
  • Frank,

    I would not know the answer to this question! You will have to ask Joe, how he comes up with this TECHNICAL information. I don't work for Nissan and I can only tell you from my past experiences. I do work on my cars but when it gets really technical, I am smart enough to know when it is out of my league. Cause I sure in the heck don't know it all, and have not problem saying it.


    I have read (and yes, this is what Motortrend says, and they could be wrong)that in 2003 model that the Max will be much bigger. Also, as the car gets bigger they are going to put a bigger engine in it like the 3.5 liter. I guess Nissan is going to bump the Altima up to the current size of the Max now and give it the Max's engine. Again this is what you can check out if you go to Motortrend and check out the "future cars section" I believe it is on page 2. As far as the back end of the car....well I don't know. When I was at the Chicago auto show and asked the Nissan people, I could have gotten a better answer from a BOX OF ROCKS!
  • Did anyone else experience this problem? I have just balanced my tires, and at speeds of 70mph I feel a slight side to side shaking. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes. sometimes I do not feel anything but the road. I was wondering whether it could be a tire or the axel or steering wheel. The dealership they did look at the front end, could it be a alignment?? email me with direct solutions to
  • The information you're asking about can be found in 2 separate TSB's.
    The first is TSB# 96-103 (Oct 96) "Intermit. hard start"
    And TSB# 95090 (Sep 95) "Hard Cranking"...Both TSB's will explain the 60 sec. warm up procedure, and why it is suggested.

  • I have a '98 Maxima and love it dearly. I'm sick with the flu so I decided to see how much my car is worth. I found this message board through Edmunds and decided to read ALL 1237 messages, yes I said all 1237 messages! Glad to see Edmunds allows us to post these messages so everyone knows what's going on with your car.

    What was so suprising was the soap opera that has been happening between joenissan and everyone else. At times it made me laugh and other times mad. It seems everyone has an opinion and its not always nice. I'm glad there is some monitoring, but its to bad L8_Apex can't just delete that person right off the system....something to think about. Surely Edmunds has control over this content and besides you had to agree to their terms before you could post anything.

    Well on with my problem. My 1998 Maxima is dark green, loaded and has 45,000 miles on it. The hood on the car will not stay up. I have to use a board to hold it up. Has others had this problem. Is it covered under the warranty? I've not been to the dealer yet but since I was here I thought I'd ask. Has other year cars had this problem?

    I also had a problem where in the morning I would crank the car up and it wouldn't start. But after a few tries and pumping the gas it cranked up. This only happen in the morning. Evenn after sitting for 9 hours at work, it would crank right up. Only in the morning would this happen. (Its kept in a garage too) The dealer replaced the fuel filter and adjusted the throttle. At times I did run the fuel tank down so the light would come on telling you to get gas, but this has not happen any more. (post #'s 1228,1230,1233)

    I also have the problem with a noise coming from the fan when its in a low speed. Thanks joenissan for the TSB (NTB99017A) so I can get that fixed.

    To sum up, thanks for everyone's insight in the world of the Maxima and how things can go wrong, but most importantly, how to get them fixed!!

  • I've seen quite a few of the same hood problems but, mostly on the 95 and 96 models. Not because they're any different in design but, because they're a bit older. You need to have the two hood struts replaced and with 45k on the car, you probably will have to pay for them yourself. Hopefully you've had the problem since before the warranty was up, and can insist they cover it (It does work sometimes). If not, they're about $80 EACH!, and not at all fun to get the old ones off. Once the old ones come off, the new ones just snap right on. This will cure the hood problem...Good Luck. And please excuse the so-called drama in you may have noticed, I don't even respond's become too far below me to bother.

  • Scroll back and read the posts regarding the hard start problem. They pertain to pre 2k Maximas. It's possible the "problem" has been rectified in the newer models as previously stated. The reason I say it's possibly been rectified is due to the lack of any TSB for the same problem in the 2k-01 Maximas. What you asked for is what I gave you, and those TSB's will explain the 60 sec. warm-up procedure as requested.
    It simply stands to reason that anyone who may find their newer maximas doing the same thing, should follow this procedure. An earlier post did, I believe, mention this happening to a 2k or 01 Maxima, in which the tow-truck driver did what's recommended in the pre 2k TSB's, and the car started.

  • mhammy84mhammy84 Posts: 167
    First 1997 Infiniti I30 makes a low squeak noise that I can feel in the seats when I start the car COLD every morning (when its 30 degrees and lower). I read some posts on the Maxima Problems board and found that someone posted something that may be the same as my problem...but his description wasnt clear. The squeak (which is quite loud) lasts for a second RIGHT after the car starts. What is this!!!

    Also, I have the tan leather interior in my car, and there's a whole bunch of black spots and stains all over the seats and on the vinyl side armrests etc. What is a GOOD, QUICK and EASY cleaner to remove this without causing long-term harm to these surfaces?? Any suggestions? Thanks!
  • The squeak sounds like a loose belt, and after a few seconds it grabs and the squeak goes away...try having the belt tension checked.
    Good ole' saddle soap is safe and has always worked quite well. It's even good for getting that heavy use gunk off the leather steering wheel rim.

  • mhammy84mhammy84 Posts: 167
    thanks for the reply...i originally thought of the loose belt problem, but the dealer already checked twice and said all tension was okay. They THINK it could be related to a possible hairline fracture I already have in my exhaust manifold, for which they ordered the parts for. Could this be likely, or can I suggest something different? I wouldnt argue that possibility.

    Also, can you suggest any BRANDS of stuff I could use to clean off the nasty marks from the car interior surfaces? Thanks!
  • I've never experienced a cracked exhaust manifold that would cause a squeaking noise ..but hey...stranger things have happened. I guess you'll find out for sure when they replace the cracked one.

    What kind of marks, and on what surfaces ?

  • mhammy84mhammy84 Posts: 167
    there are black stains left on and around the door handles (mostly from mechanics hands), there are also a few small black scuff marks on the leather portions of the seating surfaces. I am mostly concerned with the black marks on the doorhandles, and also the scuff marks from shoes kicking the front speakers on the front doors. It really shows up on the tan interior! A friend of mine at the local "instant carwash" place used some "Tar Remover" and said if he didnt clean it off with water afterwards, long-term destruction of the plastic would occur. I DEFINATELY did not want him to use this stuff on my leather! There must be something out there thats gentle yet effective...thanks!
  • Thanks for the update on the Hood Struts. I'll see what the dealer has to say and let everyone know.

  • For the leather, any good leather cleaner, as long as the leather isn't actually gauged, will can try using regular saddle soap, which is what I use on works pretty good.

    For the doors, any kind of degreaser should work if it's grease...any actual scuff marks, depending on how bad and deep they are...may be permanent. Try good ole Armour All on'll sometimes lessen the appearence of scuffs.
    Do be careful, and DO NOT use tar remover on plastics or leather. It will discolor and/or melt plastic. You may have to try a few different things seeing as different types of marks and scuffs react differenly to different products.

  • Does anyone know if the 2000 Maxima factory installed in-dash DC player is capable of playing CD-R and/or CD-RW discs?


  • You can play a CD-R but I don't think CD-RWs will play in the car. But why would you burn music on a CD-RW?!
  • jimxojimxo Posts: 423
    I was considering extending my 3/36 mile warranty. I currently have 35.500 miles on my SE. I have only one problem so far, the passenger door sticks and lube has not worked. I have owned several Toyota's with little problems. I happy so far, but this is my first Nissan and I wondering if I should spring for the additional coverage (7/100).

    1. Should I buy the Nissan plan? How much?
    2. Should I go with e-z care? Less money
    3. Should I do nothing?

    I welcome any comments.
  • Strooper,

    My factory CD player works great with CD-R audio recorded discs. It will not play CD-RW audio discs. A gereral statement would be that almost all CD players should be able to play CD-R audio discs with some exceptions. Another general statement would be that almost all CD players will not be able to play CD-RW recorded discs with some exceptions. The CD-RW discs are recorded in a different format that most CD players can't play. The CD-RW recorded discs usually can be played back using newer CD-Rom drives in computers. More often CD-RW discs are used for data storage.

  • It really depends on how long you plan on keeping the car, how good you are at maintaining your car. Personally, I think what we charge is a rip-off. You already have 5/60 powertrain coverage, which also covers front struts. Unless you plan on putting WELL over 100k on the car, I'd save the money and if you need to have any out of warranty repairs'll probably be less than what you'd pay for the extended warr. anyhow. Just my opinion.

    Strooper....As mentioned before, No....CD-RW's will not play in the factory CD player, as well as most others...even home CD players.

  • jimxojimxo Posts: 423
    Thanks, I was thinking the same. My dealer gave me a price of $1,166.00 6/100. I will sell around 60K. $1200.00 can go along way in repairs with a local repair shop.
  • If you're going to sell the car at 60k...don't bother. Save the $$$, and use it as part of a down payment on the new

  • My '01 GLE came with a slight mettalic rattle or ringing that occurs primarily when the car is cold and I hit a bump. It sounds as if it comes from below and behind the heating and AC control panel. Reluctant to ask dealer to remove front panel. Anyone have similar problem?
  • Had the strangest thing happen lat night. Driving home on the at about 55 mph, in 5th (have a 5spd), want to overtake someone, so I change lanes and mash the gas pedal, rpms shoot up by about 300-400 rpms but the car doesn't accelerate then suddenly rpms come back down 300 rpms and car starts acclerating hard. I didn't touch the clutch. Just to check if it was me tried this in 4th and same thing happened. Happened a total of four different occassions. Never happenend until last night. What is going on??? Is it the TPS??? The clutch??? Happen to anyone else in their 5spds???
    Want to be armed when I go see the dealer.
  • I currently own a 2000 Maxima GXE with 28,000 miles. It is currently in service because the brakes are grinding and squeaking in the front of the car. The dealership claims that this is normal and I have to just live with it!

    Anyone else out there have this problem?
  • I would say your clutch is starting to slip a bit. A clutch test is usually performed by trying to accelerate in high gear/low rpm, exactly the situation you were in. If the dealer replaces the clutch, ask them to use high quality replacement parts (not the Nissan Key Value line).
  • Assuming, by your name, that you have a 2001 Maxima, there's no way you should be experiencing that much clutch wear so soon. That's not to say that that isn't the problem...because that's what it sounds like. How many miles are on the car ? If it's found to be the clutch, you shouldn't have to pay for the fix. We don't offer anything but OEM replacement parts for clutches stated by 96i30, you may want to ask.

    Path....Some minor squealing can be normal but, not grinding. If you also find that they are warped, demand replacement rotors. There have been some trouble with improperly torqued lugnuts that can cause the rotors to warp. You'd know this by a pulsation in the brake pedal when you apply the brakes.

  • jimxojimxo Posts: 423
    I have a 2000 SE. My first brake issue came at 8k miles. I was getting a grinding noise at moderate braking (front). My dealer said it was some kind of foreign matter on the pads and cleaned everything up at no charge. Around 10k miles the problem came back, more foreign matter---not.

    They said to be 100% sure, I should cut the rotors and eliminate the roughness or any unevenness and I agreed. They grinding that was originally coming from the front had disappeared, however I felt that the braking power was significantly reduced. I now have 36K miles and need brakes (front). If you cut the rotors you may as well do pads at the same time. My dealer gets 179.00 for this. With 28k miles your at least due for pads.

    I very happy with this car, but every car foreign or domestic can have brakes that squeak and its a common problem.
  • Thanks for the responses. And yes Joe I have a 2001 SE, with only 4600 miles. So, I am concerned about the problem considering I drive mostly highway miles, with little or no bumper to bumper traffic. I'll let you guys know what the dealer says.

    Thanks, again
  • atuzaiatuzai Posts: 47
    I found a 99 Maxima SE, 22000mi, AT, only ask 15K. I think it is a great deal. But feel too good to be true. I will meet the seller ( private) this afternoon. Any suggestion what I should pay attention to when checking the car? Somebody suggest me to check it with Pep Boys, is that worth? I think it is still under warentty, should be no problem, right? Do not know much about car, really need your help! Thanks.
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    I wish I'd asked the question before I bought my 00 GLE last August. I was coming off bad experience (from a maintenance perspective) with a Ford so I bought the warranty. At today's shop rates, if one thing goes wrong, the expense should cover the cost. However, I know I got the warranty for a good price, but I still think I'd rather have a new set of Titleist irons (lol). : )
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