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Also the salesperson told me that it is not necessary to use premium fuel, contrary to what the brochure's advise. I'd like to hear what some of you owners have to say about this too.
Thanks!
Don
Leon
msobotkin@aol.com
Now that I've had the fuel-cut TSB performed and parts are on order to cover the exposed fuel filler line which will by covered by Nissan NA, I'm really enjoying my new Maxima - Black, SE, 5-speed, loaded minus 6-disk CD changer. I have 750 miles on the clock and I've filled up twice. First full tank returned 16.5 mpg, second tank 18.5 - with more highway driving. I hope I get to 20 mpg!!! The numbers on the window sticker never seem to be accurate. Hopefully you realize this before you buy the car or aren't buying it for the mileage - VW makes some great Deisel cars - really.
And, I always use Exxon Super (93 octane). The extra money buys you more power and better detergents! Ask a mechanic, this is important and worth the money. Fuel injectors and related parts stay cleaner.
Break-in Period:
I think the "break-in" period is more for the driver than the car. It's more important for the average driver to learn how to properly drive their new car than it is likely that they will somehow damage it by driving it too hard.
Think about it, are cars that sensitive or is more likely that you'll loose control due to the 222hp or a car they're not accustomed to driving? My last car was an MR2, and I can tell you, everyone is lucky I'm taking my time to get used to this one. It has over 100 more horsepower, is much quicker and handles well, but in a different way than the MR2.
I think "break-in" refers to us. Has anyone ever been able to attribute a problem with a car to "improper break-in"?! Ridiculous. Do you know how new car purchasers or how lot boys or car trailer truckers drive these new cars? They beat the crap out of every car - didn't you beat on every car you test drove? I even beat on the SE that I bought during the 20 mile test drive...that's what a "test" drive is.
My first MR2 was a demonstrator at a Toyota dealership, it was eventually purchased after 3500 "demo" miles. Do you think the salesmen (circa 1986), were gentle for the first 1000 miles or so?! I was the second owner at 17K miles. I had it for the next two years until it was stolen. It never had one problem.
Color Selection:
I have black with black leather - well Nissan calls is black actually it's dark gray. Anyway, I wouldn't take a car with a light interior. This is my fourth black car with a dark interior. Light colored interiors get filthy and look used very quickly. With 750 miles on my car, the only dirty part is where the seatbelt rests between the windows while it is unbuckled. It is a light color there and every time your hand grabs the seatbelt it brushes this light trim and it gets dirty. Imagine the entire interior of the car that color! I've been in light interior colored Maxima's after one year and the seats, trim and rugs are a mess. As it is, I'm concerned that the medium gray rugs that came in my car will show too much dirt.
Black is hotter. It certainly is. It also looks better and stays cleaner looking. Try using the air conditioning and closing the sunshade when it's summertime.
Deals too good to be true:
Read the small print (if you can), it may say after 3K down or a demo. If not, take the ad into the dealership and request to purchase (or drive) that car. If they say it's sold, ask them to produce proof. It is still illegal to advertise falsely. They must have one (or have just sold it.)
The cheap car is often called the "ad" car. The golden rule at the dealership is never sell the ad car - lead the customer to another, more expensive car. However, you can demand to see it and purchase it.
The ad car gets people to call or come in. Having one car that they actually loose 1 or 2 or 3 thousand dollars on is no big deal. Do you have any idea how much just one newspaper ad costs? A radio commercial? A TV commercial? Thousands and thousands. The ad car always works and is relatively inexpensive.
One more thing, usually the ad car is undesirable in some way - color, options, demo with miles, stick-shift (my favorite), anyway, for the best deal - buy the ad car.
Maxima's are really sweet. Enjoy the ride.
We get 4 bikes up there regularly (2 Adult & 2 Kid size) and you should see what happens to the gas mileage with all that wind resistance up there. It also can be removed/reinstalled completely in about 15-20 minutes.
It's not cheap to purchase but it does last a long time!!
Fully loaded 2 K Super Black/ Blk lethr int., 17's, 5 Speed Maxima SE.
Note on Regular vs Premium debate. Gas prices were approaching 2.00 a gallon here in NY. Last week I thought that I would save 12 cents a gallon by using regular 87 octane Mobile since I 'm doing a lot of highway driving. Well in that 10 percent in normal city traffic, the car knocked badly on starting from a stop until the timing was reduced by the ECM.
I think I learned a lesson and decided to spend the extra 2.00 each fillup to avoid this. I fill up once a week, thats around a hundred bucks more a year, BFD. Remember, that slight knock is preignition and its the rods and pistons rattling because its actually trying to combust and expand before the piston is TDC. This is not good. Besides if the timing is being retarded, it reduces the performance characteristics of the Max, and thats why we bought a Max, for its performance.
So...Get Premium..its worth it in the long run.
-Beanboy
95 maxima GlE with 88K miles in Minneapolis area. Pearlized white/tan leather. Power everything, sunroof, heated seats, CD, spoiler, splash guard, New AC, new tires, new timing belt. Very good maintaince. The seller ask for about 10k, I think it's possible for me to get it at $8800.
Do you guys think it is a good bargain? Thank you for your help. I am kinda concerning about the high milage. It's gonna hit the 100k within a year. Other than the milege, I've heard about the problem related to gas cap, spark, and tranny, wondering how bad they will be with car like 95 GLE and 88k miles
Thank you all.
While my father was willing to co-sign the lease with me since I was making grad school TA money, the finance manager went ahead and ran the application through with just me on it to avoid all the paperwork involved with my fahter co-signing from 2000 miles away. I was approved on my own (don't ask me how that happened making a $1000 grad school stipend) and drove off that night. They even let me take it home while waiting on some paperwork regarding my trade-in (whihc my fahter also co-owned).
I don't know if it made a difference that my father is in "the business," he manages car dealerships in Arizona, but they treated me well.
I bought my second Nissan, a Maxima GLE a couple of years ago now that I am in Houston from one a Nissan salesman that used to hang out here (He may still, I am not sure). That purhcase was pleasant as well. I did most of it through e-mail and phone and just filled out the short creidt form when I picked up the car.
Also, when you lease, NMAC is very eager for you to lease another car from them at the end of your term and will pre-approve you for a set amount above what you are currently paying. That made it very easy to get a new Maxima in 1999.
Hope this helps!
Kelly
The reasons were:
Infiniti has a longer warranty (4yr/60000 miles), loaner car even you jsut go in to do an oil change. Options that are available only on Infiniti-Navigation, Xenon headlights, rear sunshade. On my I30t, dealer also throw in the wood kit for free.
Also, what's the best way to sell a '95 Protege stick w/120K miles?
Now have 2200 miles on my '01 SE (all options) and mileage is climbing steadily. Started at about 18 cty/23 hwy and now am running 20 cty/27 hwy.
Took it on a 750 mile round trip this past weekend and got 27 mpg on all Interstate driving at 77 mph...into a strong wind...and with the A/C on. Premium may run 2.02 a gallon, but this mileage and performance are worth it!
Seth
'01 SE Grey Lustre
Sticker $30,080. and I paid $26,300.
The decision to go with the Black leather interior over the Frost leather won out. I'll start off using premium gas also, as it does help with the performance as was mentioned from owners of that vehicle.
Thanks..
Bought it at Kelly Nissan of Lynnfield MA.
Sticker $30,080. and I paid $26,300.
The decision to go with the Black leather interior over the Frost leather won out. Also, I'll start off using premium gas also, as it does help with the performance as was mentioned from owners of that vehicle.
Bought it at Kelly Nissan of Lynnfield MA.
The dealers here seem really hesitant to discuss
cash incentives for some reason. From what I can
figure, 3.9% financing for up to 60 mos is the
only incentive currently offered for the Maxima.
Does anyone know different? It seems like the
previous posters are getting around invoice price
for their cars, sometimes less. That is good to
know. If I can get that kind of price with 3.9%
financing I will definately buy.
$25,877 sounds like a great price for a loaded
GLE. I was pricing some out earlier today and
that is less than what it said invoice price was.
I don't believe there are any manufacturer
cash rebates either, so I would think that is a
good deal.
this is a false/incorrect statement
a car must go through the break in period
refer to your manual or any knowledgable/specialized person regarding this matter.
qx4
Mechanical Engineering
There was a $500. regional dealer cash program at the time which didn't show up in Edmunds. They were very easy to do business with on the front end. Haven't used them for service as I'm on the north side . Round Rock has given me great service on my '97 Altima. Good Luck.
For what it's worth, I live in Chevy Chase DC and bought my 95 Maxima DE from VOB after shopping numerous dealers, including out of state. For the first 4 years (i.. through 1999) the service experience at VOB was superb and extremely price competitive. A new red team service manager came on board in 1999 and, perhaps coincidentally, the routine service prices seem to have gone up, although the service itself is still very good.
A few friends and colleagues have bought from VOB and several other dealerships in the area and, in general, VOB seems to be the best choice. They seem to get to the right price without a lot of B.S. and the after purchase experience is the best of the bunch. I have heard that Passport is a dealership to avoid.
If you can wait a few months for the 2002 model with the 3.5 liter engine upgrade, let me know and we can negotiate a two for the price of one deal!! I hear it will be available in September.
Good luck.
P.S. Red Flag to "happy_daniel" considering purchasing a 1995 GLE: My 1995 SE has a timing chain. If the service records for the car you are considering shows a timing belt replacement, check for other discrepancies.
Mechanical engineer or not and in the manual or not, you still can't believe everthing you read. I say the break-in period is bogus. Some owner's guides recommend changing oil every 10K miles - would you listen to that? I've never heard or read about a problem attributed to improper break-in - has anyone? Could you image the manufacturer putting something this "critical" in the hands of the consumer? Millions of consumers? Please. The break-in period is so a new owner can get adjusted to the car and not hurt themselves or others.
The under invoice prices mentioned above are very good. I bought my car at VOB, too. The price was several hundred dollars under invoice, no doc. fee and the salesman and finance guy were excellent - no pressure on warranty, no funny business with interest rates - 3.9% was nice. The service team has been equally good for the TSB and now the fuel protector.
And of course, as each month goes by, Maximas (almost all cars) will cost less. We're heading into a recession, interest rates are dropping, a new model year is coming out, Nissan has updated the Altima...
If you need a car, you already know you can't beat the Maxima - don't worry about another $500. Just leave off the 6-disk CD changer until later.
Has anyone noticed how the Maxima looks a lot like the LS300/400/430's? Nice company to keep.
Ed A. a.k.a. Altavista
2001 Maxima SE, Black on Black, 5-speed
Ed, I have to disagree w/you about who the break-in period is for, in my opinion any new pieces of metal rubbing should be done slowly, engine parts, wheels, bearings, brakes (semi-metallic pads and rotors, etc. and your car runs really nice , I am jealous!
Mark A
Part #: 74844P (1 Piece – Fuel line cover thing)
Part #: 74305F (4 Pieces – Plastic screw/retainer things)
INV#RD(not sure if "D" "O" OR "O")47654
NI01553-09321 CLIP
NI17290-2Y000 PROTECTOR-FILLE
Part #: 74844P (1 Piece – Fuel line cover thing)
Part #: 74305F (4 Pieces – Plastic screw/retainer things)
Thanks in advance,
Reg
All of the 3rd generation maximas from 89-91 and the max GXE's only from 92-94 have the 160 HP SOHC engine which don't require premium. I know that the 95-2001 all require premium. Not sure about the 92-94 SE model (these have 190 HP).
I burn regular in my 92 GXE in the winter and mid-grade in the summer.
Hope this helps...
As as 2000 Max SE owner (my second Maxima), I don't like the idea of buying a $15,000 4-cyl and adding $10,000+ worth of options. I hope they don't make the Max too big. If they do, I hope the 2003 Infiniti XVL is a desirable option.
and i'm sure the moderator will be more than happy to refer you to some refrence material regarding break-in period.
mechanical engineer or not the car needs to break in. design a component and put it in an assembly and you'll understand.
i'm not hear to start argument. you stated your opinion and i stated mine. i'm not changing my opinion and you probably won't change yours. so let the others interput it the way they like to.
moving on to a new subject.
I guess if the Altima is being redesigned and getting more hp, then they have to do something to distinguish the Max for the higher price. I like the all of the features that the Maxima offers, it sounds like a great car on paper, although I haven't driven one yet to experience it firsthand. I'm just not wild about the current exterior styling which is why I'm curious about when the next redesign is planned. I don't think it looks anything like the LS400 or the new LS430 which are both beautiful cars. But that's my opinion. To each his own, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess.
The folks at www.freshalloy.com are speculating that the 2002 max, in addition to the 260HP engine, will get HID headlights, 6-speed manny tranny, 6 disc in-dash changer, optional navigation system (maybe), etc. This doesn't surprise me since all of these options are/will be offered on other Nissan products in 2002.
Also, I'm hearing that the 2002 may be THE max to get since it'll have the same engine as the bigger (hence heavier 2003 max). Interesting. If Nissan keeps the price right and offers these options, then the 2002 max will compete nicely with TL's, TL-S', and GS300's of the world.
The Acura "S" engine with supposedly 260 horsepower is within 30 of an NSX (the original NSX only had 270 hp). If the Acura Type S, with a supposedly 70 h.p. advantage, is quicker than my 95 Maxima, the difference is very marginal. It's definately no NSX.
Edmunds own recent test of 4 coupes puts the BMW 330ci at the head of the pack in performance in spite of the lowest horsepower rating of the bunch (beat Mercedes 275 hp V-8).
I know vehicle weight, torque curve and a few other factors can explain some of the differences. But I really think the manufacturers are radically different in terms of the size of their "horses". BMW gets my appreciation for apparantly using Clydesdales. Most Japanese manufacturers appear to have gone to an Asian version of the Shetland.
At 3.5 liters and 260 horsepower, the 2002 Maxima should on paper be able to run with (or outrun) the previous generation BMW M3 (240 hp). The higher output ratings of the Maxima should fully compensate for the 200 +/- lb. weight disadvantage. I'll be interested to what the real world results turn up when the car gets here.
Any thoughts?
P.S. Lest I give the wrong impression, in the "real world" I am not an agressive driver or drag racer. The whole horsepower rating thing just entertains me.
I do feel that many cars get a little quicker, get better mileage and shift more smoothly after some time, but I don't think drivers have much to do with it. It just doesn't make much sense.
How can a manufacturer even offer a 10 year warranty (or a 2 year) if so much depends on the driver? With the crankshaft spinning at 3K rpm or more, what affect do I really have on my engine? It can't be much. The pistons are already moving at a blinding speed and the engine is already at a high temperature with computers monitoring vital systems. Pressing the gas too hard or not pressing it enough is going to somehow damage the car?
If drivers played such a crucial role, the manufacturer could do several things to assist with proper "break-in";
1) inlcude programming that didn't allow high reving, high speeds, fast shifts, etc. until 1,000 miles (or whatever the magic number is)
2) use a computer to track the driving for the initial break-in period and void the warranty if improperly driven
3) drive the car for 1,000 miles before sending to the dealer!
4) monitor test-drives more closely!!!
5) don't even get me started on fleet sales, rental or lease returns...
And finally, what should someone do in this situation...
Crossing an intersection with a new car, someone is heading toward you about to blow a red light, the only way out is to hit the gas hard - or definitely get hit? What do you do? Well, I guess it doesn't matter too much, either way you just damaged your car.
Simply ridiculous.
The first time a car engine fires up, it's more broken-in than anything we will do to it - short of not maintaining it.
This is my opinion.
The cylinders on a new car have been honed or whatever method they use to make them smooth. However, the piston rings do have a tendency to not completely fit the cylinders. Therefore they have to make so many Millions of cycles to fit themselves to a greater degree. The car manufacturers spend lots of money to figure out the number of cycles - then they approximate the mileage that the average driver needs to go to reach that number of cycles.
Now, the harder you drive, the bigger the forces that interact between the pistons, rings and the cylinders. If they are properly seated, the forces get spread, so the wear (gouging) will be uniform and small. If they are not seated, the forces will make the parts gouge each other more! That is, in my mechanical engineer's opinion, the long and short of why break-in is important.
My personal experience with my y2k Max has been this: Drove it as a baby the first 1000 as directed. Drove it hard (70+ mph on cruise control) for the second 1000 miles. The gas consumption: 27 mpg on the second 1000. Now (at about 10,000 miles) I have a hard time beating 21 mpg, city or highway. Ie, my gas consumption is way up!!!
Does that mean that with today's harder surfaces, the break-in period should be more than 1000 miles? What is your take on this, guys and gals?
I read somewhere that an engine isn't truly "broken In" until about 30,000 miles, thats when your suppose to get the best mileage and most power from the engine. I think thats when I'll start using synthetic oil. Someother automotive magazine reccomended that you should't use syntheic oil until its broken in or at around 15,00 miles or so.
I babied my Max under 50 mph for the first 1000 miles and under 65 for the next 2000 miles. But thats what I chose to do. Also I didn't want to open her up until I performed the first oil change at 3000 miles. The thought of the original oil contaminated with small minute metallic particles from the bearings seating helped me keep my regimine. Hey, Nascar engine builders all break-in their engines before going racing, so their got to be something to it. However, you do what you feel is right.. break'n it in or not.