is called GM Protection Plan, for pricing and coverage info, go to GMPP's website. You can read the contracts there, be sure you know exactly what you are getting.
The bottom of the brackets have an LH and RH on them, and mine were on the wrong sides. So, I reversed them.
Just a reminder Dean, many of the crossbars were made with the RH or LH reversed! GM actually sent out instructions on the correct alignment and placement of the bars to reduce noise. For the record they should have the thin lower side facing the FRONT of the vehicle. (You can also look at the tie-down 'loop'). For reduction in noise the back bar should be close or at the farthest back location and the front bar just about at the front of the 'vent' glass of the rear doors....this is the position for the short not XL/EXT versions.
Hi everyone. I've been keeping up on the site, just haven't been too "type"ative lately. 24K on 2002 Envoy and still no problems. Had the Euro taillights painted black to match. Looks much better. Here's my Borla question to those who have it. Does the resonating sound mentioned earlier between 12 and 2000 rpm annoy passengers, or make it hard to hear the radio? I'm ready to install it if people riding with me don't say..." What's THAT noise". Thanks much. Tom
I thought my Envoy was a bit too loud at 1500 to 2000 RPM's. The drone was real noticeable. There is a reason that back resonator is on the vehicle. Once removed, the drone is there. I made my Envoy livable by installing about 180 sq.ft. of sound deadener on the floor and in the doors. No road noise at all now, still have a little exhaust noise, but as I say livable, and some wind noise.
SOUND DEADENER, now that sounds interesting. How did you go about doing this? Did you do it yourself or a shop do it for you? What is the cost? What kind of material did you use? I know the Rainier has the special windshield and front door window glass for wind noise, but did your sound job reduce the road noise similar to the Rainier?
I went ahead and purchased the GMPP 60/90000 on my 2004 Envoy from the dealer. I got the $100 deductible plan. That cost me a little over $1600. I should have waited a few days... There is a dealership in Penn. that sells the GMPP at a discount. I would have paid about $400 less for that save plan.
IF you are in the first 12 mo & 12000 miles, you can buy the new coverage that starts at delivery date and mileage. After that time and mileage you can purchase coverage that start when you purchase the coverage. Just looked at my price quote and there is a list for USED 0-24 mo and 0-24000 miles and another list for 24-36 and 24000-36000 that looks to be a little higher. So, you might not save money by waiting.
Black Pontic Cadillac GMoutlet. check on the web at gmoutlet dot com. I filled out a request and got an e-mail from Allen Black with a pointer to the price list.
I purchased a Chrysler extended warranty from a dealer in Iowa on the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee we just traded. Got a discount similar to what the GM one would be. Unless you are a resident of the state (Penn in this case) where you purchase, you pay NO sales tax, so I would have actually saved over $500 by buying from these folks.
I too purchased a Major Guard 4 yr 72000 mile plan 0 deductible for 2003 TB. Now I've got a bumper to bumper warranty until 6/11/08 or 95,950 miles for a total of $1,548 including a processing fee (I now have 23,950 miles on her). I went through Black in PA as posted earlier. It is best in my opinion to wait until just before 24,000 miles to buy so you can use that price group.
I've noticed that it's taking a lot longer for my 03 TB to start blowing cold air. Last year it seems like it blew cold air after just a few seconds.
Now when I turn the A/C on, it doesn't blow out of the vents it is showing on the display (have an LTZ). If it shows it coming out the top vent, it may be coming out on the floor only, cycling the modes does nothing, it's still off. I hit off and turn it off completely, then back on, and it will work right. But still get the warm air.
And the air is stinky.
What's the deal? Just curious if anyone knows before I take it in Monday.
Really bums me that it takes 11 minutes for the A/C to be blowing air that's cold (~40 degrees).
See post #14486 for my personal experience on this matter. Also, you can do a search on your title "A/C blowing warm air" and you might find more than your fare share of input.
Doh! Yeah I remember now perfectly this problem. Extensive problem on the triplet line. Dunno why I forgot it. Looks like it's going to the dealership monday. 12K miles. Thanks for the reminder on what it was.
I plan on waiting until next july when it will be 3 years old. I only have 12,000 miles and will be below the 24k for the better price. The prices are good until October http://www.gmoutlet.com/gmppfaq.html Adamjeeps was correct, read below. My 1st quote fell under (A) but it seems it is better to wait, see (B)
WHEN WILL THE PLAN EXPIRE?
A.) Brand New Vehicles "INCLUDING" vehicles less than 12 months old "AND" 12,000 miles on odometer. All plans expire when the odometer reaches the miles designated in the plan or when the months designated in the plan is reached. The months are the total months the car has been in service.
Example: A vehicle purchased new on Jan. 1, 2004. You purchase a 72 months 75,000 mile plan. The plan will expire Jan. 1, 2010 or when the odometer reaches 75,000 miles regardless of when the plan is purchased.
B.) For Vehicles over 12 months "OR" over 12,000 miles on odometer. The plan length and miles starts at the date of the GMPP purchase and at the odometer reading at time of purchase.
Example: On Jan. 1, 2004 you purchase a GMPP on your two year old vehicle with 23,507 miles on the odometer. You purchase a 24 month / 36,000 mile GMPP Major Guard. Your GMPP plan would expire on Jan 1, 2006 or 59,507 miles.
My 2004 Envoy w/ I6 exhibits some surging/slight bucking when going down a hill at 65-75 mph with the cruise control on. I think the computer is trying to brake, retard spark, or the lock up torque converter is unlocking. Before checking with my dealer, I was wondering if anyone here has similar experiences or suggestions. I have heard things like a software upgrade might fix this or this might be normal for certain GM vehicles.
Same problem here except sometimes mine feels like it is going to die. This will be the next problem for GM to fix, after they fix the non-installed Bose system. After they fix those two items, then they can start on the bouncing and rocking this vehicle exhibits. When trying to brake on a bumpy Texas road, you can get better results by using your feet.
I am waiting until just before I hit 36,000 miles to buy a 3 yr 36,000 extension. My local dealer matched the on line price from the PA dealer including sales tax, so for the same money I would rather buy it from my local dealer where I bought the Envoy. Plus, if you read the sample contract you are supposed to call the dealer where you bought the warranty before having any work done. I don't want to have to call PA before I have my local dealer do warranty work. I am paying $1065 for the additional 3/36,000 major guard with 0 deductible.
Interesting texaszeus, can you elaborate on the non-intalled Bose system? When I was looking for an Envoy, I looked at an one that had the 1SE Option package, therefore should have the Bose System, but the head unit in the dash did not say Bose on it. It appeared to have the Bose speakers in the door, but did not sound quite like the Bose system, pretty good, but maybe 85% there. Slightly short on the bass and highs. I was tuned into the Bose, since my last vehicle had the Bose. I purchased a very similar vehicle that definitely had the Bose system. Keep us posted on the Cruise surge.
Your comment about the output from that stereo definitely sounds like the non-Bose in the triplets. My TB LT doesn't have the Bose setup, and the mids are definitely much stronger than the lows or highs. Really makes me wish I'd gone for a Bose setup instead. too.
We pulled our 4000# camper again this weekend and, once again, experienced the delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift after about 20 miles of driving.
When this happens the engine just screms along at 4000-5000 rpm in first gear even as I lightly lift the gas to try to get it to upshift. Instead of upshifting, it just slows down but remains in 1st gear. So I let off the gas a little more and it finally upshifts. Same routine for the 2-3 shift. This all happens on level ground with no wind, and only after about 15-20 miles. If I don't release the gas enough for a 5mph slowdown, it will drive for miles in 1st (or 2nd) gear. For the first 15-20 miles, it runs great and shift normally.
I asked the dealer to look into this last summer, but no resolution.
I have the 04 SLT 1SD with the Nav unit. This vehicle was ordered from the factory. I noticed that the Nav unit radio had speed compensated volume and 5 EQ settings and one custom. The sound was not the Bose sound I had in my 02 Envoy. I went back to the dealer on a Monday and they played with it trying to get the Normal,Talk, Driver and Spacious settings to appear which are standard for the Bose. This was on 2/29/04. Customer care finally informed me my vehicle was not "wired" for a Bose system, even though it is required for the Nav unit. It took over 2 months for GMC to finally figure out what the problem was, and GMC still has not done anything to resolve my problem. Thank goodness I left the paperwork from Bose showing the location of all the hardware, or they would still be looking for the problem. They've tried to resolve the problem by extending my Onstar service or XM Radio service (I have no XM receiver). From what I know, mine is not the only vehicle with this problem. My radio display shows "GMC, sound by Bose", my windows sticker showed there was a Bose system, but the ears knew better.
I am considering purchasing a 2002 Bravada with 29000 miles on it. I am just concerned about the resale value on it once Oldsmobile is no longer in existance. I have looked at the Envoy and the Bravada and am having a hard time making the decision. The quality of the leather is better on the Envoy but the ride seems better in the Bravada. The particular ones that I am looking at seem to have the same features yet the Bravada is about $1500 less expensive. Just how much do you all think the value will drop in the next few years versus the Envoy?
I wouldn't worry about it depreciating any more than any other triplett. You'll still be able to get it maintained at a GM dealership and parts will still be available. Besides that, I think it's probably the nicest looking of all of them. Also, as you're buying this used, the original owner bore the brunt of the depreciation already.
Hey cameokid...I'm going to try to persuade my dealer to try and rebalance my drive shaft, but I'm not sure I followed the logic regarding the torque converter. To me, if you feel the vibration and hear the humming, then press the brake pedal to disengage the TC, and the vibration and himming goes away, that suggests that the problem lies with the torgue converter. I experimented with that this weekend and got the same results you described...once the TC is disengaged, the vibration and humming goes away until the TC re-engages. Is my logic flawed? As previously mentioned, I have had the drive shaft re-balanced once (not sure if it was done correctly or not) and it definitely changed the degree of the vibration and the humming...not nearly as noticeable now, but I can still feel/hear it. I plan on talking with a GM Regional Maintenance Manager later on this month. Hopefully I can get them to check the TC or re-balance the drive shaft and solve the problem.
Yes, your logic is not quite right. It's not likely to be a problem with the torque convertor. When the torque convertor is disengaged, the fluid coupling will absorb some of the drivetrain vibrations and mask the problem. When it is engaged, the vibrations are more pronounced because the engine and drivetrain become hard-connected. So, the torque convertor is merely the messenger in your case.
My service engine light came on a few days ago. I took it to an Autozone, as they read codes for free. As it turns out, it was simply the gas cap being too loose. I don't understand why cars can't display error messages, like "check gas cap." Seems like that would be more useful than the dreaded "Ice possible" message.
Not fully understanding the anatomy and physiology of torque converters, I'll try to respond (engineers, help me out here):
I think the the torque converter touches the drive shaft at all times, unless disengaged (i.e. when the brake is applied). Therefore, if the vibration was coming from the torque converter, the vibration would occur at all times, not just at 1500 rpm. I suspect the TC played a role in transferring the vibration to the gas pedal and the rest of the car (steering wheel, console, doors, rear-view mirror when it was really bad). It would follow then, that if the vibration were coming from the drive shaft only at 1500 rpm, when the TC was disengaged, the vibration in the car would stop, which in my case, it did. So, we went after the drive shaft as the culprit. I cannot stress enough to find a good drive shaft shop that takes pride in their work and doesn't mind you looking over their shoulder to be sure it's done right - to the specs I gave you - evidently GM has a different standard for 'acceptable' runout and balance. If you're anywhere near Washington DC I can give you the shop I went to. It has made all the difference in the world in my driving enjoyment.
Here's an informative site on torque converters in case you're interested:
I have experienced some delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, but not while towing. For me it's more when I start up and drive right away without waiting for the car to sit for a couple minutes before I start driving. I have had it to the dealer once before for klunky shifting, they did a software update, but it still does it. Hasn't been too much of a problem, as long as it doesn't get worse. Once I get going it stops doing it.
P.S. - I towed a pop-up camper last weekend loaded down with bikes (prob 2500#) didn't have any shifting problems, but seemed to have a good bit of power loss going on the uphill over bridges after about 100 miles.
cameokid...can you provide me the name of the dealer and the service manager's name or work order number so that my dealer can contact someone up there to discuss the fix.
I would also be concerned about buying a used Bravada, as it will be an "orphan". You might also consider the '03's, as they have had some of the first year's problems corrected. If you buy the '02, consider the extended warranty.
It depends how large an area needs "touching up" on your bumper. If it's a small chip or scratch you can use a paint pen customized for your paint. If it's a large area, you might have to use the spray paint (it's made flexible with rubber in it) and flexible primer, too. A still larger area would require the entire bumper repainted. I have ordered the paint pens (the color pen and a clearcoat pen) for my Envoy, and they work fine, from this place: www.paintscratch.com If you have breached the primer, you may need to order a primer pen, too. There is a lot of info and instructions on their website, so read all that before you order, and you'll know what supplies you'll need. You have to prepare the site well first. They recommend using their solvent wax remover and extra-fine sandpapers if needed. You may want a little bottle of their acrylic paint thinner to clean your paint pens or any brushes, etc; you can't use regular paint thinner. The bumper is different from the rest of the car in that it requires flexible materials if it's bigger than a paint pen repair, so you have to tell them it is for bumper. You will need to know your paint color code of course. They are also good about answering specific questions. Good luck!
I really want to be able to say that I love my 2002 envoy which i bought new two years ago but it is always in the shop for repair. I had it in 4 times for the service engine light which was finally taken care of when they replaced the gas tank. The driver's seat has been repaired 3 times. (would not move at all). A short in the electrial system caused the tail lights to go out. The radio has been replaced twice. My newest problem has been the worst. I have been left stranded now twice with no power at all to the car. First time the battery cable was corroded, today I was told by the dealer that there was no problem, that they were unable to "duplicate " the situation. The window on the passenger side fell down and would not go up. The plastic panels on the rear passenger door have come off. The head lamp washers will sporadically go off for no reason, which they also can not seem to fix. I feel safer driving my husband's 5 year old car than my 2 year old envoy. Has anyone one else had this much trouble or am I just having bad luck?
I have a 03 trailblazer and i want put a new audio system in. Now the thing i do not want is something going wrong with the electrical system. Also im thinking about putting fipk kit from k&n on also and a v-force muffler on. If anyone who has did any of these things can you give me some advice on what to expect and what to look for. And who can put on the k&n kit also thanks. ps do gm carry kits for the trailblazer/ performance mufflers
I also like the design of my 2004 Envoy. I get aggravated everytime I drive mine because I have wind noise and my brakes have a clicking sound every time I press it. When I go down a bridge fast over something bumpy, while I'm starting to press the brakes I hear a grinding kind of noise. When I bring it to the shop they probably will tell me can't duplicate concern etc. We will see. But I lack confidence in this vehicle. I regret buying it. Never before have I ever felt concern about the quality of my vehicle purchases than I do with this Envoy. I wish I would have done deeper research on the Envoy. I should have listened to my husband and bought a Yukon.
asteinman, welcome to the crowd. This forum has been our soap box for three years now. the triplets have had their share of problems plus many more. Your experience is not worst we've been exposed to. The triplets have had problems from day one. The 2002's being the newest spent the most time in the shop. The follow up post by ann1 sums it up about the best, the triplets do not instill confidence in driving. They may be fine for some but so is the guy they call W. The best thing about the triplets is you can dump them before 4 years.
Who was the dealer you bought the Chrysler Warranty from in Iowa ? I've got a 2001 Jeep GC with 37,300 mi. I'm looking for the most yrs miles I can get. I also am getting a quote from the Black Pontiac Dealer.
Come on Tidester, it's an election year! You are taking all the fun out of life if the election can't pervade each and every aspect of our lives. After all, you sure can't turn on the TV without being bombarded each day. Seriously, these forums are one place of refuge from the political onslaught. Many posters in the various forums get all bent out of shape arguing about the vehicles, so there is certainly no reason to make it worse. Only 4.6 months until the election is over, unless the Supremes have to decide it again. UGH!
The site in Iowa is chryslerwarranty dot com. Just looked and you need to be under the 36/36000 warranty to be elgible to get the Maxcare Warranty. They may have some other options...so contact them. Of course, they did not ask me for verification that I was under 36000 miles, but they can determine the in-service date from the VIN. I was at 35000+ and within 2 weeks of 24 months. They may have used the last mileage in the system from a visit to the dealer within a month or two of my purchasing the Chrysler MaxCare.
Just checked under their get a quote and there is an option for over 36/36000 ($300 surcharge), over 24/24000 is a $200 surcharge and over 12/12000 is a $100 surcharge over their sale price which looks to be maybe 75% of list.
I always envy the Canadian system - PM Martin announced the election a few weeks ago, and the results will be final in ~6 weeks total.
At least I killed my TV so I don't have to listen to the bombardment of ads (and I don't want to come here for my political news or shots at the opposition).
Let's stick to the Triplets, please - if this isn't entertaining enough, go take advantage of the gas hike.
technically speaking, my comparison between a Triplett, a man referred to as W, and a feeling of lack of confidence was an honest example of just how I feel about my 2002 TB. My ( TB ) has let me down many times, has a mind of its own and has cost a lot money to keep it going. It has not instilled driving confidence , and I will probably trade it in for a different make in a few months, unless it changes its ways. No jabs intended
I understand what you were doing but you must also realize that in the political realm what you may regard as axiomatic another will view as a cheap shot and tends to incite. It's best to stick with automotive issues here and leave political discussion for another forum. We'll all be happier.
I can understand why some may not want to see the 800 lb. gorilla ( Political realm )in the room. But the fact is the political realm has everything to do with us driving the cars of our choices. Consider that the number of SUV's purchased (n) is in part = mpg of the SUV/ price of gas. Now factor in the fact that gas prices are not totally controlled by outside sources, TEXAS and other oil states do not belong to OPEC, and that a certain political group is more closely aligned with big oil. The very group who espouses purchasing large SUV's is the same group who backs the political party which is supporting high gas prices. So, as the price of gas goes higher, the number of large SUV's purchased will drop. Fewer SUV's purchased will result in fewer Edmunds SUV forum participants. Our goal should be to perpetuate this forum, not design its demise.
You might be interested in the I don't like SUVs, why do you? discussion which is a little closer to the concerns you're expressing as opposed to vehicle specific boards like this one. You might also check out some of the discussions in the News & Views section.
Comments
Just a reminder Dean, many of the crossbars were made with the RH or LH reversed! GM actually sent out instructions on the correct alignment and placement of the bars to reduce noise. For the record they should have the thin lower side facing the FRONT of the vehicle. (You can also look at the tie-down 'loop'). For reduction in noise the back bar should be close or at the farthest back location and the front bar just about at the front of the 'vent' glass of the rear doors....this is the position for the short not XL/EXT versions.
Hope this helps,
Ray
IF you are in the first 12 mo & 12000 miles, you can buy the new coverage that starts at delivery date and mileage. After that time and mileage you can purchase coverage that start when you purchase the coverage. Just looked at my price quote and there is a list for USED 0-24 mo and 0-24000 miles and another list for 24-36 and 24000-36000 that looks to be a little higher. So, you might not save money by waiting.
Black Pontic Cadillac GMoutlet. check on the web at gmoutlet dot com. I filled out a request and got an e-mail from Allen Black with a pointer to the price list.
I purchased a Chrysler extended warranty from a dealer in Iowa on the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee we just traded. Got a discount similar to what the GM one would be. Unless you are a resident of the state (Penn in this case) where you purchase, you pay NO sales tax, so I would have actually saved over $500 by buying from these folks.
Bill
I've noticed that it's taking a lot longer for my 03 TB to start blowing cold air. Last year it seems like it blew cold air after just a few seconds.
Now when I turn the A/C on, it doesn't blow out of the vents it is showing on the display (have an LTZ). If it shows it coming out the top vent, it may be coming out on the floor only, cycling the modes does nothing, it's still off. I hit off and turn it off completely, then back on, and it will work right. But still get the warm air.
And the air is stinky.
What's the deal? Just curious if anyone knows before I take it in Monday.
Really bums me that it takes 11 minutes for the A/C to be blowing air that's cold (~40 degrees).
http://www.gmoutlet.com/gmppfaq.html
Adamjeeps was correct, read below.
My 1st quote fell under (A) but it seems it is better to wait, see (B)
WHEN WILL THE PLAN EXPIRE?
A.) Brand New Vehicles "INCLUDING" vehicles less than 12 months old "AND" 12,000 miles on odometer. All plans expire when the odometer reaches the miles designated in the plan or when the months designated in the plan is reached. The months are the total months the car has been in service.
Example: A vehicle purchased new on Jan. 1, 2004. You purchase a 72 months 75,000 mile plan. The plan will expire Jan. 1, 2010 or when the odometer reaches 75,000 miles regardless of when the plan is purchased.
B.) For Vehicles over 12 months "OR" over 12,000 miles on odometer. The plan length and miles starts at the date of the GMPP purchase and at the odometer reading at time of purchase.
Example: On Jan. 1, 2004 you purchase a GMPP on your two year old vehicle with 23,507 miles on the odometer. You purchase a 24 month / 36,000 mile GMPP Major Guard. Your GMPP plan would expire on Jan 1, 2006 or 59,507 miles.
I think the computer is trying to brake, retard spark, or the lock up torque converter is unlocking.
Before checking with my dealer, I was wondering if anyone here has similar experiences or suggestions.
I have heard things like a software upgrade might fix this or this might be normal for certain GM vehicles.
Thanks in advance.
When I was looking for an Envoy, I looked at an one that had the 1SE Option package, therefore should have the Bose System, but the head unit in the dash did not say Bose on it. It appeared to have the Bose speakers in the door, but did not sound quite like the Bose system, pretty good, but maybe 85% there. Slightly short on the bass and highs. I was tuned into the Bose, since my last vehicle had the Bose. I purchased a very similar vehicle that definitely had the Bose system.
Keep us posted on the Cruise surge.
Thanks..
We pulled our 4000# camper again this weekend and, once again, experienced the delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift after about 20 miles of driving.
When this happens the engine just screms along at 4000-5000 rpm in first gear even as I lightly lift the gas to try to get it to upshift. Instead of upshifting, it just slows down but remains in 1st gear. So I let off the gas a little more and it finally upshifts. Same routine for the 2-3 shift. This all happens on level ground with no wind, and only after about 15-20 miles. If I don't release the gas enough for a 5mph slowdown, it will drive for miles in 1st (or 2nd) gear. For the first 15-20 miles, it runs great and shift normally.
I asked the dealer to look into this last summer, but no resolution.
Anyone here have the same towing problem?
Thanks,
Dean
Also, as you're buying this used, the original owner bore the brunt of the depreciation already.
It's not likely to be a problem with the torque convertor.
When the torque convertor is disengaged, the fluid coupling will absorb some of the drivetrain vibrations and mask the problem. When it is engaged, the vibrations are more pronounced because the engine and drivetrain become hard-connected. So, the torque convertor is merely the messenger in your case.
- WPK
As it turns out, it was simply the gas cap being too loose.
I don't understand why cars can't display error messages, like "check gas cap." Seems like that would be more useful than the dreaded "Ice possible" message.
Not fully understanding the anatomy and physiology of torque converters, I'll try to respond (engineers, help me out here):
I think the the torque converter touches the drive shaft at all times, unless disengaged (i.e. when the brake is applied). Therefore, if the vibration was coming from the torque converter, the vibration would occur at all times, not just at 1500 rpm. I suspect the TC played a role in transferring the vibration to the gas pedal and the rest of the car (steering wheel, console, doors, rear-view mirror when it was really bad). It would follow then, that if the vibration were coming from the drive shaft only at 1500 rpm, when the TC was disengaged, the vibration in the car would stop, which in my case, it did. So, we went after the drive shaft as the culprit. I cannot stress enough to find a good drive shaft shop that takes pride in their work and doesn't mind you looking over their shoulder to be sure it's done right - to the specs I gave you - evidently GM has a different standard for 'acceptable' runout and balance. If you're anywhere near Washington DC I can give you the shop I went to. It has made all the difference in the world in my driving enjoyment.
Here's an informative site on torque converters in case you're interested:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter1.htm
I have experienced some delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, but not while towing. For me it's more when I start up and drive right away without waiting for the car to sit for a couple minutes before I start driving. I have had it to the dealer once before for klunky shifting, they did a software update, but it still does it. Hasn't been too much of a problem, as long as it doesn't get worse. Once I get going it stops doing it.
P.S. - I towed a pop-up camper last weekend loaded down with bikes (prob 2500#) didn't have any shifting problems, but seemed to have a good bit of power loss going on the uphill over bridges after about 100 miles.
cameokid...can you provide me the name of the dealer and the service manager's name or work order number so that my dealer can contact someone up there to discuss the fix.
Thanks,
Bertman
www.paintscratch.com
If you have breached the primer, you may need to order a primer pen, too. There is a lot of info and instructions on their website, so read all that before you order, and you'll know what supplies you'll need. You have to prepare the site well first. They recommend using their solvent wax remover and extra-fine sandpapers if needed. You may want a little bottle of their acrylic paint thinner to clean your paint pens or any brushes, etc; you can't use regular paint thinner. The bumper is different from the rest of the car in that it requires flexible materials if it's bigger than a paint pen repair, so you have to tell them it is for bumper. You will need to know your paint color code of course. They are also good about answering specific questions. Good luck!
Steve, Host
I've got a 2001 Jeep GC with 37,300 mi. I'm looking for the most yrs miles I can get. I also am getting a quote from the Black Pontiac Dealer.
Thanks
No, it's not and it's not going to become one either! :-)
tidester, host
Just checked under their get a quote and there is an option for over 36/36000 ($300 surcharge), over 24/24000 is a $200 surcharge and over 12/12000 is a $100 surcharge over their sale price which looks to be maybe 75% of list.
Bill
At least I killed my TV so I don't have to listen to the bombardment of ads (and I don't want to come here for my political news or shots at the opposition).
Let's stick to the Triplets, please - if this isn't entertaining enough, go take advantage of the gas hike.
Steve, Host
No jabs intended
tidester, host
tidester, host