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I have a couple thoughts on this and I hope it pays off for GM, but I don't think it will. First off, GM has improved quality, but they are still behind the quality of several competitors. By selling vehicles that don't work like they should, they will further lose customers. Also, the prices they are offering now are going to make more people hold off for that "big discount" instead of buying earlier in the year.
GM is starting to look desperate. I am now kicking the idea around of buying another vehicle. I'd like to buy another TB, but will the wife want to drive our 2004 or our 2005? We will see ...
-gmfan
THANKS
tidester, host
It's not difficult, but a special socket is needed that has a slot for the wire.
You're right - it's too low. I'd take it to a different dealer.
-gmfan
Cary :confuse:
-gmfan
This is probably the tightest engine I've ever owned as it has never needed oil added between changes and with the synthetic I go 7K or more.
I ususally watch the oil change reading in the DIC and allow it to reach 40% or so
Anyway, this is off subject. I use Mobil 1, 5W30, in all four of my vehicles exclusively.
Steve
If the seats are redone, do they have sufficient side bolster in the bottom and back to hold the body relatively in place if the seat is leather covered like mine? While I always have used my seatbelts and shoulder harnesses in the vehicles I have had, I would prefer not to have to use them to just hold me in position behind the steering wheel like I do in the Envoy. I just don't think that engineers put enough thought in the seat design in vehicles, not just American but most manufacturers, and the seat is where people spend their time in vehicles. It is kind of like the term "Where the rubber meets the road" when talking about tires. Instead, this is "Where the body meets the vehicle" and it can make a lot of difference, particularly the older one gets.
Out of curiosity, I will go by the GMC dealer near the house and look at the seats.
Thanks,
Steve
-gmfan
It could be an oxygen sensor or the gas cap not being on good.
The air filter is most likely a coincidence. No magic here - there's no sensor
that tells when the air filter is dirty.
Also,a loose gas cap will always cause an SES light on these trucks.
-gmfan
-gmfan
I doubt replacing it will effect the cooling when it's hot though. Has it ever just quit cooling after it's been cooling for a while, like on a long drive? That would indicate a sticking switch. That low pressure switch cycles the compressor off when the low side goes below a certain pressure to keep the evaporator from freezing up. More likely what is happening during a hot cool down is the high pressure sensor is reaching it's programmed limit and cutting out the compressor to keep pressures from going too high. That's what mine does. Once it gets past the initial cool down cycling, it will get on down to 40-45° out of the center vent.
Thanks for the info. Is there a solution to the high pressure sensor? Where is it located and would I need to evacuate the system to replace this item? I think you make better sense with what is going on. It is like something is faked out. Don't get me wrong, once it starts cooling, it cools well and stays cool. No, it has never quit cooling after it has been cooling for a while. It is just a little embarrasing when you have clients or employees in getting in a hot vehicle after it has sit in the sun, and everyone suffering for a good two or three minutes before it kicks in. Heat and humidity here in the south is starting to show the system up!
-gmfan
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I am going to talk to my dealer about a rust prob, and would like to know the # just in case. It is in the door jams, and under the hood, also on the liftgate hinges.It is an 02 Envoy with 40K miles, I do have the xt warrenty, but it states...no rust coverage.
Thanks..Bill
Yes I know what you mean about the heat and humidity. Currently we are at about 92° with a 68° dew point. If an A/C unit is trying to cool that air, it won't blow much colder than the dew point. The rest of your cooling is pouring out on the street as cold water - condensation. So...make sure you have it in recirculate mode. A lot easier for it to cool down hot dry interior air than it is hot humid air from outside. Putting tint film on the front windows to be closer to the factory rear window tint helps a little too.
For another picture visit my website.
http://home.nycap.rr.com/luckyjdr/TB_bridge_hit.html
Wonder if I can get the rims and tires off it?
Can anyone help to explain, it does not make sense to me. I work for an automotive manufacturer and I know that vehicles are different from side to side, it would seem that there really is something wrong with my vehicle. It drives great and rides great, but is there anything to worry about?
Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks :confuse:
at 1-800-222-1020. Tell them about the rust and get it on record.
If we get enough people to call they might do something.
Thanks