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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • gty62gty62 Member Posts: 25
    Just be pray the heater doesn't break. The heating element is apparently sewn directly into the seat cover, and to replace the heater one must purchase the entire lower assembly - retail value $670!!! plus labor to install . . . I was quoted over $800 for the whole job!!!

    Well done Chrysler; couple this with your inability to design brake rotors that outlast the pads - you've made a believer out of me . . . my next car will be an import.
  • jfizjfiz Member Posts: 3
    Not sure if this is the correct board for this inquiry, but it's the one with the most recent activitity on the 300M.

    I am considering buying a 2004 300M, and I was wondering what difference in headroom, if any, the sunroof will make in the car? I'm 6'5, and I need all the headroom I can get. I test drove a 300M *with* a sunroof, but I'm wondering if one without the sunroof would have any additional headroom. Anyone know?

    Thanks,

    //jfiz@yahoo.com
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    is probably pretty similar interior wise and there is plenty of headroom. The power seat can be lowered to give you even more room.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Well I am 6'4 and my age 17 son is 6'1 240 (w/about 3' shoulders) so we just bought a 300M after considerable shopping/reading vs Bonnevilles (NO headroom w/sunroof), Galant, Passat, Accord. We drove 300Ms both with and w/o sunroof and no major differences in headroom: have more than a hand's width on both of course lowering power seat. The 300M totally outclasses the rest of the sporty 4drs with their big 6s. I own a Grand Cherokee and have had 2 Caravans with fairly good luck using Chryslter products: only major probs were with 87 caravan 3L 'Mitsubishi' engine. So with discounts and the $4000 rebate I am looking fwd to the 300M, however it will be mainly my wife's car and after we get out of extended Jeep warranty we'll probably drive it more.
    Obviously I read the posts here and other consumer mags and editors reports etc. This car with the premium package looks great on the surface so I hope to say this 7-10 yrs from now as I run my vehicles into the ground. Also I much prefer the styling of this vs new 300M and need FWD due to living in the woods (yes, I have a Jeep but not going to carpool every day we get > 3in of snow in Minn). Our only decision is to get or wait on ext warranty (current plan is wait till end of first year and see how it goes...was surprised on price HIGHER than our Jeep's since 300M already has the 7/70, and I am leary of some of these Internet ext warr companys). More to come, we pick it up later this week.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    I'm positive you and your family will be very pleased with your purchase of a new 300M. I can't say it enough that I enjoy turning the key everytime in mine.

    I will add that, if you are seriously considering getting the extended warranty, you should buy it at the time of purchase. It will be considerably higher to purchase one a year from now. And you don't have to worry about buying one from the internet. Chrysler has their own factory backed extended warranty. That's what I purchased when I bought my '02 300M Special and, should I need any warranty service, I can take it to any Chrysler/Dodge dealer in the country. It's fairly inclusive coverage and all the high dollar items (engine, transmission, seat motors, window motors, etc.) are covered.
  • summersummer Member Posts: 2
    After admiring the 300M for the past few years, I finally bought myself one. I absolutely love the way it handles, and it's fun to drive. Problem: I went to pick up my Ford truck after getting it services and the mechanic walked out to the car with me. He was walking around my car admiring it, when he said "I think you have some problems". It turns out that the right side of the car and the left side don't match. The hood is uneven, the trunk lid is uneven, the drivers side doors aren't flush like the other side, the slight fender flair is much larger on one side than the other, seams from the two sides don't match, etc. and etc. I took it back to Carmax where I bought it and I'm not sure what the outcome is going to be. The service dept was not much help-wanted to send it to a body shop. In my limited knowledge of cars, I would think that no brand new car would be in need of a body shop. I told them that I did not want a new car that required body work. I was then sent to the sales floor to talk to the new car manager. The manager on duty apparently was not the right manager, and they said I have to call back tomorrow to talk to another manager. This place is 65 miles from my home, and I took time off work today, because I had to have "an appointment" for them to look at it. My appointment turned into dissapointment. Could any of you out there help me with info on this? In this situation does Chrysler take the car back? Has anybody ever bought a new car that required taking to a body shop for repairs? Carmax says they won't sell a car that has been wrecked, but wanted to send my brand new one for body work. Does that mean that they wouldn't sell it as a used car, even though they sold it to me as a new one? I have a lot of questions and would like some answers. Thanks!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Since when does Carmax sell new cars? Sounds like you got a used one that may have been in an accident. But if the car feels fine to you and handles fine, there probably isn't really a problem. Just have them realign the panels and you should be all set. If you're uncertain, go to the DMV and have them run the VIN# to check for accidents or if it's ever been totaled. You can also go to www.carFax.com and request a history on your car. It'll cost you, but the peace-of-mind might be worth it to you.

    There's ZERO chance that Chrysler is going to buy back a used car. You're stuck with having to deal with Carmax.
  • summersummer Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Carmax does sell new vehicles here in Georgia. They have dealerships for Chrysler, Jeep, and Mitsubishi that I know of. The car had 8 miles on it when I bought it. No doubt that it was brand new. They (carmax) called me today, want me to bring it in again next week, so they can 'look at it' again. I got the impression they do expect Chrysler to buy it back. It somehow got past their quality assurance people, and then Carmax missed the problems too. I'm just wondering if I should replace it with another 300M. I love this car, but after having a bad experience with Chrysler and Carmax, not sure I would ever want to do business with either of them again.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Summer--What you describe is not my experience [99M approaching 6 years old] and don't recall anyone on the big board over the last 5 years mentioning defects like you describe. Definitely a QC problem. They should be anxious to fix it not the opposite. They are holding back 300C's near the plant now nit picking for any defects on the new model before they are shipped, so you can be assured that this M must have slipped by the inspection somehow. The plant workers were very conscientious about quality when I visited the plant two years ago with the 300M Club.
  • shell01shell01 Member Posts: 1
    I have read this message board for the 1st time- I have had nothing but problems with this car. I have been told that I need tie-rods and bushings for the 3rd time. I have 122,500 miles on the car, it will be 5 years of problems on 6/22. The dealer has had to replace front door locks 2 times, oil and trans pan 3 times for leaks, I had no heat in 99 when it turned cold in Chicago- the car was only 4 months old.... When the car is cold, the air bag light appears-
    the dealer told me that there is nothing wrong with the car-, the front seat, had the recall- still jumps around. Just bought 4 brand new tires- have the loose steering again. When I hit 60 miles an hr-
    the car shimmy's - nothing wrong with the car------ Try and get a head light changed--- $105.00 bucks- they have to take off the bumper-
    Yea I love this car, like a big pimple on my nose. Never again....
  • j3studioj3studio Member Posts: 27
    Folks,

    Our 1999 300M (slate, PHP, I remember when PHP meant something, :) ) just lost the power window motor on the rear driver's side door. Does anyone know how much it will cost to get it fixed? We're probably trading it in this summer...should we just 'deal' with this problem until then?

    Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Had this done on the driver's rear window last month on my 99M. Cost here in KY, - you could be in a higher labor rate area - was part #5012545AD Motor: Window Regulator $82.70; part #6504014 Door Trim Panel $1.85; Labor $100.45; Tax and shop supplies [don't have a clue what that is] $14.62. Total: $199.66. I did this repair after using BigMikes fist to glass technique for several years to free up the glass which sometimes sticks on the molding and which the motor did not have the torque to overcome. Essentially, it entails opening the door, starting the car or turning the ignition key and having someone push the button while you take you fist, soft side to the window and pound your way around the edge of the glass, not hitting it enough to break the glass, but giving it a good rap four or five places. That got mine working a few times but I got sick of it last time and had the repair done. There is a TSB on this problem from DC, so you may be able to negotiate over the repair given as I am sure your's has been malfunctioning sporadically, as the TSB says, over time, and before it left warranty.
  • j3studioj3studio Member Posts: 27
    Thanks, BigMike!
  • muttraymuttray Member Posts: 5
    It appears that I have "blown" my front center speaker in my 2000 300M. It rattles something horrible and ruins any music that I listen to. This being Sunday, I stopped by Best Buy for input from their car stereo department (fully aware of what I was in for). As soon as I mentioned what type of car it was and the problem, they all ran screaming away as fast as they could. One of them was nice enough to say that they couldn't handle it there and strongly recommended not going to the dealer about it either. They gave me the name of a shop that is supposed to be a good place to go. Has anyone else had a problem with this speaker(s) and if so, how did you have it corrected? Since the dash will need to be pulled I am thinking of updating all the speakers that are hiding up there as long as I am paying for the labor to rip it all out and put it back in. Any comments?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Unless the 2000 M is a little different from the 2002 M, there is no need to take the dash apart to get to that speaker. Only three pieces need to be removed; the two A-pillar covers and the black panel at the base of the windshield. It takes all of, maybe, a minute and a half to pull those pieces off. I know because I had to install my RB1 navigation antenna beside the dash speaker.
  • muttraymuttray Member Posts: 5
    That would be very nice. I will check out that approach.
    Thank you!
  • muttraymuttray Member Posts: 5
    Do those three pieces just pop out or are there any hidden fasteners to remove? I am a little spooked to mess up the nice fit prying somewhere that I shouldn't be prying. I have worked on almost everything else on cars but have always shied away from pulling interior pieces loose, they always seem to not go back just as nice as they came out.

    Thanks in advance for any help!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    The pieces in question here just pop right out. No hidden screws.
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    I've got 20K on my Concorde Ltd and I get oil on my garage floor after every oil change. I have it done at the dealer. Does oil run into various cracks and crannies when draining? It stops after a few days so no real big deal but what gives?
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    When the filter is removed, oil runs onto an engine mount located on the subframe, then drips as you describe. I change my own oil and cover the mount with aluminum foil before removing the filter.
  • t2greent2green Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 M,purchased new, at 2 months over the warranty period I noticed a thin crack on the right side of the dash board. The dealer refused to repair it under warranty because I was not as he put it a loyal customer. I took it to another dealer and paid $175.00 to have it repaired. after a few months the crack appeared again, the dealer had it repaired again and now the crack is back.Has anyone had the same problem and had it resolved to their satisfaction .
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    What you describe with the dashboard was reported by several other 300M owners over the past 4 years. Go to the main board area and do a search using "dashboard" and you should turn up some stuff. My 99 M is just approaching 6 years old and knock on wood I have not had this problem. I do use a conditioner on the dash twice a year minimum, have a dash cover on it and use the window sunblock screens so maybe that has helped its longevity. Check the Club site too, and there may be a TSB listed there if the problem was widespread enough. The dealer's approach seems pretty Draconian and non-customer friendly.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    There are other vehicles that drip oil after each oil change. For example, my 95 Nissan V6 pickup has the oil filter mounted on the right lower side of the engine block. When the filter is removed and replaced, the oil flows onto exhaust header and starter and drips for about two days afterwards, so I use a large galvanized drip pan under the truck for two days after each oil change. It is slightly annoying, but so what?
  • penny2penny2 Member Posts: 1
    Today, my gas light flashed and my gas gauge went from 3/4 down to empty and back up again. It reoccurred where there was a chime, flash and gas gauge moved a few times on the way home from work. Any ideas on what the problem is or has anyone else experienced anything similar.
  • 78887888 Member Posts: 12
    I have to turn my key at least twice to start my '99, sometimes it can take up to 8 tries. but she always starts and drives wonderfully. i have taken her to the dealer twice; they cannot detect the problem because she starts every time when there. after her last visit to the dealer, she has been starting in no more than two tries and i notice my seat is also adjusting which it was not doing regularly. my airbag light came on one day but eventually went out. Has anyone experienced/resolved his problem.
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    I have noticed a shimmy in the left front when driving on some right hand curves. As the tires are new, I fear the tie rod/s are needing replacement. I will post after visiting the dealer (with my Geico extended warranty in hand).

    Silver
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    My 99 300M (Automatic Climate Control System) was not cooling properly. Brought it in for service and was told it was low on coolent. System charged to specs and worked properly for a few minutes and then went from cold to hot. Tried rebooting computer without success. Any suggestions to resolve this problem would be appreciated.
  • j3studioj3studio Member Posts: 27
    [cross-posted from 300M general]

    Folks,

    Thanks for all the help over the years. These forum (that means you folks!) got us through the first couple interesting months with our 1999 (slate, PHP) and was extraordinarily kind, understanding, and (above all) useful over the years.

    We traded in our 300M yesterday, at a little over 86 thousand (hard) miles. Niggling things were starting to happen - the air conditioning compressor was starting to fail for the second time, as was the driver's power window motor. The driver's door was also starting to stick again. We also wanted to have all wheel drive before another winter hits.

    In spite of the issues, I believe the 300M aged well, especially considering we had the first year of production. The most important components continue to function as intended - the engine still enjoys full throttle acceleration.

    :)

    I think the 300M remains one of the finest looking sedans out there. I am one of those who believe that there was a chance to go real wheel drive and go hemi while keeping the same general look. If that had happened, we would have given the 300C serious consideration.

    Thanks again!
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Muttray, I too have a blown center speaker and am wondering if you had success replacing yours? If yes I'd be eager to hear any tidbits you learned.
  • muttraymuttray Member Posts: 5
    I have the blown one removed now. It was very easy to do with the help from the good folks on this board. I popped out the left window pillar cover and used a 2" putty knife to pry up the left side of the most forward dash cover under the windshield to get access to the speaker. I used a phillips driver in a 1/4 inch ratchet to get the screws out so I wouldn't have to totally remove the cover. Just being chicken since I don't want to screw up my interior. The only thing that I screwed up was that I didn't notice that the speaker had a plug connection that I could just unplug, I cut the wires by the speaker when I removed it and then saw the plug. The plastic trim pieces went back in easily.

    I need to get a replacement speaker. I personally do not like the sound of the system with that speaker out of the loop. One bad side effect of taking that one out (for me) was that now I noticed the right side "sail" speaker doesn't work properly. I need to research the previous posts on here and get a good source and recommendation for replacements. If anyone has recent speaker recommendations, they would be appreciated!
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Muttray - Thanks for the speaker removal info - I'm going to give it a go.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Just take the speaker to one/some of your local stereo installer shops (not Best Buy, Circuit City, etc.) and ask for some recommendations. Just tell them what you want out of your speakers' performance and they can lead you in the right direction. Just try to avoid being roped into their upsale tactics.

    Good luck!
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Muttray, I've spoken to several stereo shops and they have all said the best thing to do is stick with the factory replacement center dash speaker. My dealer quoted $57 +tax. Did you have success finding an aftermarket replacement?
  • muttraymuttray Member Posts: 5
    I have been busy at work and fun stuff like that, so I have not had time to check into this any further. That doesn't sound like too bad of a price.
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    Having difficulties with my Automatic Control Unit. When outside temperatures are below 100 degrees the unit works fine, once the outside temperatures goes over 100 degrees, I am unable to get the temperature down sufficiently to cool automobile. How do I reboot the Body Control Module and the Climate Control Module?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Sounds like you need to refill your A/C coolant. What year is your M?
  • tramainersrtramainersr Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys this is my first time in this site I was told that I needed an evaporator. Has anyone else had this problem. It seems that the a/c repair shops around here are running as soon as I give the year make and model of my 2000 300m. If anyone has any advise or know anything about this part please let me know. My front 2 speakers have blown also but this is not important until I find a solution to the evaporator problem.
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    Tramainersr, I drive a 99M. Last year I had my unit checked when car would not cool off. Was told I was low on refrigerant. Unit was re charged and problem continued. Went to an Auto Air Specialist and was told that the unit was overcharged. Unit evacuated and re charged. Problem persisted. Garage re booted computer and problem was solved. Two garages told me that the evaporator needed to be changed. NOT SO.
    This year, problem of car not cooling off came up again and I made the mistake of taken my car to a mechanic that really didn't know how to handle the problem. After spending $640.00 on various experienments he conducted (so he says), my car was returned. I have air conditioning, but it does not work the way it is suppose to. When the outside temperature is above 100 degrees, I'm unable to cool my car off in an efficient manner. I've got a warranty from this garage but what good is it if they don't know how to resolve the problem. My suggestion is go to a 300M dealer, and hopefully they will properly diagnose the problem, charge you an arm and a leg and hopefully you'll have air conditioning. Good luck.
  • tramainersrtramainersr Member Posts: 2
    Thank You! I think I will get a second opinion from the dealer but they do charge an arm and a leg but I guess changing a part that doesn't need to be changed would cost me even more. Thanks for the response.
  • magn45magn45 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 300m and had the same dash speaker blown, I found a replacement speaker on Radioshack.com, it's was alot cheaper than what the dealer wanted and seems to sound just fine.
  • plantplant Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem happen to me several times. The dealer replaced the Control Power Modular(SP ?) 3 times. The 3rd time worked> No problems since.
  • htm974htm974 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 300M with 54000 miles and have the same problem plus the dealership says the dryer needs to be replaced as well. They told me it will cost about $1400 but I'm about to get another qoute elsewhere, I hope you have better luck.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    I get plumes of black smoke when I floor the accelerator. Is it carbon deposits or poor/weak spark? I've checked the plugs and they're fine. If it's carbon deposits, is there a kit or something I can buy to clean the intake (same the the dealer will do) myself on the cheap?
  • davertdavert Member Posts: 23
    Our 300M we got used - it's a 2000 model - so I just bought the weatherstripping instead of fighting it out. It's $38 per door from Pomoco CPD in Virginia Beach (mail order, about $8 shipping). You have to ask for the weatherstripping that attaches to the door.

    I'm told the vendor was fired ... ! later models don't have this problem. We didn't have wind noise, but it made little clicking/rattling noises. Don't need that.
  • dukeofdallasdukeofdallas Member Posts: 52
    Has anyone experience on their 300 or any other car a stripped drain plug? That's the news I got from the dealer when I put mine in for an oil change today. Of course they blame the last people who changed the oil. Anyway, he described a procedure of installing a threaded insert. SOunds simple enough but the damage would be $250. Is a new insert something that I can pick up at a parts store and install myself or have a local guy do?
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Enter the problem on your favorite search engine. Lots of simple solutions. Can't imagine it would cost anywhere near $250.
  • 78887888 Member Posts: 12
    i have the same identical problem going on now almost a year. i have taken my car to the mechanic once and the dealer 3 times. the first time, the mechanic changed my starter. so now i have a rebuilt starter. it happened again, so i went to the dealer. each time i take it to the dealer they call and ask me to pick it up because its starts every time for them. i am having the identical experience with my '99. i am always anxious because i don't know whether she is going to start but she always does and she runs beautifully. have you gotten any good advice. matter fact, i came on board today to find an email address for chrysler, because i met a young lady who is experiencing the same problem with her '99. i have 74,000 miles on my car. any one, some one please advise. thanks!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    I had a similar starting problem with my 99M about 3 years ago. I changed the starter/ignition relay [part #4671168] which was a $10 part, and the starter/ignition switch [part #5014176AA]$36. I did not know which one was faulty so I changed em both. The relay was easy to replace, but the switch took about 1.5 hours of labor. Total bill was parts $46.70, and labor, shop supplies?? & tax $89 for a total of about $136.29 as I recall. No problems since. Try the relay first, and then if necessary try the switch. good luck.
  • 78887888 Member Posts: 12
    THANKS bigmike5! I will certainly take your advice and have the shop replace these parts.
  • 78887888 Member Posts: 12
    BIGMIKE5 IT WORKED! WE CHANGED THE STARTER/IGNITION RELAY AND THAT WAS ALL IT TOOK. I HAVE BEEN GOING THROUGH THIS ANXIETY FOR A YEAR. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!
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