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Anyone had this problem before, or have any suggestion on what to check?
Might be time for a cylinder leakdown test and also keep your eye on coolant level and brake fluid level. Was this car smogged on a dynomometer type of testing machine?
Hope to hear from someone. Thanks, MP
I have a 1995 ford ranger XLT, v6, automatic, 4L. I has 169,000 miles.
Had transmission rebuilt last year.
Problem is first thing in morning when i pull out the trans. slips and "spins" for 2 to 5 seconds then catches. It does it in the afternoon also. Only does it once maybe twice in morn. and in afternoon, then no problems rest of time.
Took to local shop, of course would not repeat problem even sitting overnight. Mechanic said 1 band was too loose(I think the between 1 and 2nd)another too tight(3 and 4th) and adjusted them. Saw no other problems ,fluid good etc.
Problem is still happening. Very annoying because I can not pull out if any vehicle is within 200yards.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Ford sometimes replaces the coil pack with one that is supposedly more powerful (or something). On many motors this doesn't help much. There is also a SPRUG connector, or something like this, that can be unplugged to help. This basically retards the timing, which also reduces power. (I don't know where this connector is at, can't help with doing this yourself.)
There are 2 bolts that hold this on. Be careful with the gasket behind it, do not mess it up. Remove the electric connector. This basically is an electrical solonoid valve that bleeds air into the intake manifold. The valve part gets clogged with carbon and gas gunk. It can be carefully cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT GET CLEANER INTO THE ELECTRICAL END OF THIS, it will eat up the coil and ruin it.
If you don't want to try to clean it, aftermarket parts houses sell these. About $65 or so?
I've thought about the timing problem and talked to a ford dealer and they wont me to give them $70 to hook it up on their computer just to see if they have an update for the problem. Didn't think about the knock sensor though,, i'll have to check into that. Thanks for the ideas.
According to reviews I've read, the wiring harness under the driver's seat is susceptible to corrosion. This wiring problem has caused ABS light problems, gauges, and other electrical mischief, and has been known to cause incorrect shifting of the transmission.
I've been seeing the symptoms with the gauges and dashboard lights failing for a few years, and also my CD player will switch to the radio, turn on even while the car is off and parked (which caused my battery to die once while I was at work) but everytime I've had it into the Ford dealer, they "can't find a problem".
This may explain my transmission problem. Yesterday on the way to the garage, I couldn't go over 30mph, and the engine would rev up when I pressed the gas, but go nowhere.
Hope this info at least helps somewhat!
--DC
The cover inside can just be unbolted. A few bolts around the edges, under the passenger dash area. Remove the hoses under the hood. Pull it out inside. The core doesn't have to come from Ford, aftermarket parts have them.
Your 4cyl might have an off/on valve in one of the heater lines under the hood. Vacumn operated. Have you checked for this and it working? If there is one of these, and it is stuck closed, no water is going to circulate thru the core and no heat.