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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bigcmanbigcman Member Posts: 3
    First check your fuses. More than likely though it's your headlight switch. Easy change out, you can get them easily aftermarket.
  • twrenchtwrench Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 97 Ranger for my daughter and I am working on the brake system to bring it up to teenager requirements. My problem is the dirt and water shields on the front rotors are gone , completely rusted away. I have tried every salvage yard within 50 miles to no avail. Does anyone know of aftermarket shields that may be available. Ford wants 63 bucks apiece.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    I had this problem and it turned out to be the distributor cap had a crack in it. Your truck may have ignition coils which could be the problem. Moisture is affecting some portion of your electrical starting system. When the truck is warm, that moisture has dissipated.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    I had a similar problem with my 97 Ranger. I cleaned the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner and the power came back. It has been about six months and now it has started doing it again. I cleaned the sensor about two weeks ago and the problem is presenting itself again. I think I am going to replace the MAF sensor completely. Try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if it helps.
  • spyder123spyder123 Member Posts: 5
    This truck shudders in the rear when the brakes are applied. Replaced both rear pads and hardware this summer. Was told by techs that the wheel cylinders where sticking and needed replaced. Did that. Still a real bad shudder in the rear when braking. Could it be the rear differential? Wheel bearings? :confuse: Suggestions anyone?
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    You should be getting 16mpg city and 22mpg highway at 55 mph. Higher highway speeds will reduce your mpg. There is TWICE the wind resistance on the front of the truck at 70 mph than at 50 mph.If you are close to 16/22mpg, well, that's the way it is with the ranger 4.0. (The ranger is a rolling brick. The most aerodynamic pick-up truck sold in the USA today is the Dodge Dakota. But the Dakota is bigger and heavier and its gas mileage isn't great either.)-----Check your tire pressures, remove any excess "junk" you are carrying around in the bed or behind the seat, make sure your brakes are not hanging up and the parking brake is fully releasing,in the summer leave the sliding rear window open if you have one,having a tonneau cover helps to increase mpg, and close that tailgate. There is a common erroneous misconception that driving with the tailgate open results in better gas mileage when in fact an open tailgate reduces gas mileage. The air flow around a moving pick-up at the tailgate position is from the back to the front, resulting in higher air pressure on the back of the tailgate and lower air pressure on the inside of the tailgate which creates a state advantageous to better fuel mileage. (That is why pick-up truck manufacturers do not produce tailgates with grilles in them). Winter gasoline formulations are now being sold which result in poorer gas mileage than "summer" gas.The grease throughout the truck,(wheel bearings etc.)gets thicker in the winter and results in more rolling resistance. The already thick differential oil gets thicker in the winter.---- You didn't state what mileage you are getting, but 16/22 should be about right.
  • herehere Member Posts: 2
    iv got a 94 Ranger 4x4 that has a 4.0 engine with auto trans. i have been driving it every day and it has started fine! the other day i took my son to a restraint, and when i came out to go home, it will only crank over, but not start! :mad:
    Anyone had this problem before, or have any suggestion on what to check?
  • rackerracker Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like you need new tail lite bulbs
  • spyder123spyder123 Member Posts: 5
    Yes I had a similar problem. Mine started once then died. Then it wouldn't start. Check your vacuum lines near the valve cover on the drivers side. There is a coupling that several vacuum lines connect to. One fitting does not have an actual vacuum line. Instead it has a rubber "boot" that covers the fitting. Something caused mine to blow off(still don't know what) in which I put it back on and the engine started and ran fine. If thats not the problem look to see if you're getting spark and/or fuel.
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    I got my 4x4 light to stop flashing. It was just a blown fuse, What a relief. Now back to just the high idle. I wonder if it is possible that I purchased a bad idle air control valve from autozone and that is really my problem. If that is the case, I sure have had a lot of loss time and money looking for the problem elsewhere.
  • humminghumming Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 98 Ford Ranger with/ 70,000 miles on it about a week ago. It passed California smog test and everything seems to be fine until after I took it for an oil change two days ago. Now every time it starts up, excessive white smoke comes out from exhaust pipe, and it smells awful. I have also noticed some oil deposit in the exhaust pipe. Can anyone give me some suggestion on what's the problem? I also hear running water sound under the hood after engine stops. Is this normal? Thank you for your help!
  • fadedfordfadedford Member Posts: 4
    I have an 84 ranger with a 6cylthat is doing the same thing, specially when going up hill.
  • namdraynamdray Member Posts: 1
    I thought for my first post someone might help me know whether 96 Rangers' ABS is 2whl, 4whl, or could it be either? I bought mine just recently and original owner still had the scraped off dealer sticker stating just "Anti lock brake system" under "Preferred equipment pkg. 856B". Thanks in advance for any possible help!
  • fadedfordfadedford Member Posts: 4
    I have an 84 ranger 6cyl 4wd that has a cluncking sound when moving until I push in on the clutch and just recently the brakes are starting to lock up. I checked the master cylinder and it has full fluid, any help or advice would be appreciated.
  • kcconcretekcconcrete Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Ranger with a 3.0 v6. The vehicle has a salvage title but appears to be repaired well. It idles and runs smooth. Heres the problem, once it's warmed up, at around 3500 rpm's it hesitates and drops between 200-500 rpms. As long as I shift at 3000 rpms and keep it at 3000 rpms or less, it runs perfectly. So far I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and wires with no success. The check engine light does not come on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a bad head gasket. Is your coolant level dropping as well? Other possibility is that you are sucking brake fluid into the intake manifold, but I don't know your vehicle well enough to suggest how this happens on your engine.

    Might be time for a cylinder leakdown test and also keep your eye on coolant level and brake fluid level. Was this car smogged on a dynomometer type of testing machine?
  • mrp1mrp1 Member Posts: 3
    My 99 Ranger has developed the following problem: it will drop out of 4wd after a minute or so of use. It behaves the same whether in 4wL or 4wH, high or low speed. It does this under all conditions, even when driving in a straight line on a snow covered road (this past week). The tires are in good condition and have been rotated regularly. When it drops out, the dash indicator lights do not change. I had the automatic locking hubs replaced this past year. It may/may not be related, but the ABS will also fail periodically. Especially, when the truck is first used on a snowy or rainy day, the brakes will be very sensitive and it is difficult to brake and not lock the left rear wheel. No ABS dash indicator light will come on. Perhaps the wheel rotation sensors are the culprit for one or both of the problems??

    Hope to hear from someone. Thanks, MP
  • mdi1985mdi1985 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1988 carburated 2 liter ranger that drains power and wont idle at all dont know where to begin
  • wfj1998wfj1998 Member Posts: 9
    Has anyone experienced jerky clutch engagement and or short clutch life on their 88 Ranger 2.9 5 speed?
  • lscottlscott Member Posts: 2
    Desperate for an answer! 1992 Ford Ranger extended cab,4x4, 6cyl, 4.0. Woo is me, my poor truck. First, my air conditioning unit kept running every 5 seconds then turning off, causing the motor to surge. My husband disconnected it. Now, lost power. Battery drained, battery light did come on. Replaced the battery, still lost all power. Replaced the alternator. Still lost power after driving it 66 miles, engine quit. I read somewhere that the positive battery cable can cause this by corrosion. If anyone is out there that can give a bit of advise, please, I am desperate. Gotta go to work! Hubby thinks it's the voltage regulator but we just replaced the alternator! :cry: :sick:
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    I read somewhere that I may need to purchase a motorcraft Idle Air Control Valve because it may be tuned specifically for my truck and one from Auto Zone my be tuned to fit many applications. This seems like it could be logical in that my problem is not to severe. Any opinions out there? I may try it. I just need to find out how much one cost.
  • davidp6davidp6 Member Posts: 1
    I am rebuilding a 1985 2.8 liter V6 (Carb not fuel injected) I am looking for diagrams or photos which show how the alternator & air pump brackets mount to the timing gear cover
  • rudy8rudy8 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 2WD Ranger 3.0l automatic transmission shift lever does not engage. Truck apparent remains in neutral. Any suggests as to what the problem might be?
  • 95rang95rang Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 1995 ford ranger XLT, v6, automatic, 4L. I has 169,000 miles.
    Had transmission rebuilt last year.
    Problem is first thing in morning when i pull out the trans. slips and "spins" for 2 to 5 seconds then catches. It does it in the afternoon also. Only does it once maybe twice in morn. and in afternoon, then no problems rest of time.
    Took to local shop, of course would not repeat problem even sitting overnight. Mechanic said 1 band was too loose(I think the between 1 and 2nd)another too tight(3 and 4th) and adjusted them. Saw no other problems ,fluid good etc.
    Problem is still happening. Very annoying because I can not pull out if any vehicle is within 200yards.
    Any info would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • pbowpbow Member Posts: 1
    Bent the harmonic pulley trying to pull a balencer off a 93 ranger 6cyl . Any reason it's so stuck on? Is there a heavier duty puller on the market? My knuckle's hurt!!! :mad:
  • cniemanncniemann Member Posts: 9
    I've got a question. Has anyone had a problem with their 3.0 liter flex fuel engine clattering at speed, pulling trailers,going up hills ? Mine has been doing it since I bought the truck with 27,000 miles on it, and now with 98,000 it's sounding worse. I've tried injector flushing, high octane gas and it will still clatter. Just wondering if anyone had a solution to the problem.

    Chris
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you mean "pinging" I(sounds like a chain dragging), you'd better get that checked out really quick if it's getting worse. If high octane fuel didn't cure it, there's either a lot of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers or you may have an engine timing problem or knock sensor problem.
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    I am having a problem with my motor right now. I get a high pitch noise that i can feel vibrate in my air filter box and air intake hose. This noise comes and goes. When it starts i put in neutral it goes away, but as soon as i put it in drive it comes back. anyone have an idea what this might be? help would be great
    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    3L's are well known to 'ping'. Even when new. But mid-grade or top-grade gas usually reduces or eliminates this. You might have something else wrong. On 4L's, if the lower intake bolts are loose, they will ping. I've never heard of this problem happening on 3L's, but you might see if these bolts are loose.

    Ford sometimes replaces the coil pack with one that is supposedly more powerful (or something). On many motors this doesn't help much. There is also a SPRUG connector, or something like this, that can be unplugged to help. This basically retards the timing, which also reduces power. (I don't know where this connector is at, can't help with doing this yourself.)
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You IAC (Idle Air Control) valve is causing this. It is a chrome and black canister, the diameter of a 35mm file canistor but longer, on the left side on the intake manifold. With a 2 wire connector going into it. This controls the idle RPM of the motor. If it is bad it can cause this hum/vibration. It will also cause the idle to 'surge' up and down.

    There are 2 bolts that hold this on. Be careful with the gasket behind it, do not mess it up. Remove the electric connector. This basically is an electrical solonoid valve that bleeds air into the intake manifold. The valve part gets clogged with carbon and gas gunk. It can be carefully cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT GET CLEANER INTO THE ELECTRICAL END OF THIS, it will eat up the coil and ruin it.

    If you don't want to try to clean it, aftermarket parts houses sell these. About $65 or so?
  • burkhalterburkhalter Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem,im looking for euro/alteza taillights for 99 stepside and all/most say wont fit. Im curious to know what you found out
  • cniemanncniemann Member Posts: 9
    High octane fuel helps out some but you can still hear it.
    I've thought about the timing problem and talked to a ford dealer and they wont me to give them $70 to hook it up on their computer just to see if they have an update for the problem. Didn't think about the knock sensor though,, i'll have to check into that. Thanks for the ideas.
  • jacekwjacekw Member Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem, no solution. The 'richer fuel' suggestion never worked for mine. My truck had 68k on it, now has 148k, and it's only there when I'm pulling heavy loads, up hills or accelerating. IE - whenever the engine is pushed harder.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well light "pinging" for abbreviated amounts of time isn't really harmful...what I caution folks about is heavy prolonged pinging that goes on most of the time or that is heavy WHILE the engine is working very hard. This can be dangerous, as the "ping" is actually the internal parts of your engine rattling around in there, under stress.
  • rangerbobrangerbob Member Posts: 1
    The ping is actually pre-ignition. It happens when the cylinder and combustion portion of the head is very hot. When the timing and mixture is set correctly, the ping should go away. Ford sets the timing and mixture right at the point of a slight ping. This is the cleanest the engine will run. I had a pinging problem with my 1999 Ranger (3.0), you could just touch the throttle and hear a ping which turned into a full blown rattle. The Ford dealer said it was normal. Well it got worse and I took it back. They used a later program for the computer and it stopped. I still have the truck and it does not ping on regular gas under heavy load.
  • joeg98joeg98 Member Posts: 1
    MY OD LIGHT WAS FLASHING IS THAT AN INDICATION THAT THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM?
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    My 99 2.5L 4 cyl ranger has been getting about 17 mpg average, so I had a friend diagnose the problem, and it was my O2 sensor. I was wondering how you can find out whch O2 sensor is the faulty one, and if I can fix it myself. I'm open to any sugestions, thanks.
  • spyder123spyder123 Member Posts: 5
    :cry: :mad: I'm in the middle of replacing the drag link on a '94 4x4 4.0 and I stripped the nut on the adjusting sleeve. I am at wits end trying to figure out how to remove this bleeping nut. Any suggestions?
  • spyder123spyder123 Member Posts: 5
    if it's the back brakes locking up your wheel cylinders may need replaced.
  • delyla312delyla312 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my rear brakes in the wintertime. It is still under warranty but I dont know if this would be covered. I had a problem last winter where the back brakes froze up after they got wet the night before and then the next morning, I couldn't get the back to move, had to put in 4 wheel drive, the back just dragged and wouldn't break loose. I finally threw hot water between the slots of the rims and gave it gas and it broke loose. It happened again this past month but broke free without throwing water on it. Has anyone had a problem with this or any suggestions? Thanks :confuse:
  • smurphsmurph Member Posts: 1
    Hey wats up in new. I have a 2002 Ford RangerV6 3.0 with the edge package. Its an automatic and everytime it switches gears it jumps. Id also like to mod it slightly but not lift or lower it. Any suggestions??
  • tkunicktkunick Member Posts: 1
    I was driving down the highway yesterday and the truck just died eventually coasting to a stop. The timing belt is still in tact. All the electrical works (lights, directional, etc.) and the truck turns over fine but just won't start. Need help.
  • dangeranger1dangeranger1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello fellow Ford Ranger Owners!! I have a 93 2.3 XL. I reacently changed the thermostat to try to ale the problem, but no dice, still no heat... Or very little heat. I tried the piece of cardboard infront of the radiator trick. brings the water temp up but still no heat.. Ok here is the kicker.. the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core get to hot to touch even with the heater selector nob on high :confuse: Is this a heater core problem.. Is it bad or just cloged?? Please help cause its real cold here!!! Thanks
  • dc5dc5 Member Posts: 1
    Scott, my transmission in my 2000 ranger (automatic) started slipping yesterday. It's currently in the garage needing replaced or rebuilt, and I've been looking for info online as to the cause. Here's one possible reason that may shed some light in your case too:

    According to reviews I've read, the wiring harness under the driver's seat is susceptible to corrosion. This wiring problem has caused ABS light problems, gauges, and other electrical mischief, and has been known to cause incorrect shifting of the transmission.

    I've been seeing the symptoms with the gauges and dashboard lights failing for a few years, and also my CD player will switch to the radio, turn on even while the car is off and parked (which caused my battery to die once while I was at work) but everytime I've had it into the Ford dealer, they "can't find a problem".

    This may explain my transmission problem. Yesterday on the way to the garage, I couldn't go over 30mph, and the engine would rev up when I pressed the gas, but go nowhere.

    Hope this info at least helps somewhat!
    --DC
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Are you sure the cold/hot control knob is working? Mine stopped working and it will not get cool.
  • dangeranger1dangeranger1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes im sure, The blend door is working properly also..
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Ok, then go for the heater core.
  • fadedfordfadedford Member Posts: 4
    thank you very much for the info about the wheel cylinders I will have them looked at.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The heater cores are easy to replace on these models.

    The cover inside can just be unbolted. A few bolts around the edges, under the passenger dash area. Remove the hoses under the hood. Pull it out inside. The core doesn't have to come from Ford, aftermarket parts have them.

    Your 4cyl might have an off/on valve in one of the heater lines under the hood. Vacumn operated. Have you checked for this and it working? If there is one of these, and it is stuck closed, no water is going to circulate thru the core and no heat.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I knocked the mirror part out of my power mirror housing backing out of my garage!! It looks like everything is in tack but I can't seem to get it back in the right way. I put it in but it only adjusts sideways not up and down??? :confuse:
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