Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
For those concerned about exposure to CO gases with the rear lid partially open, ensure positive front to rear air flow.
Prospective Sedona buyer looking for anyone in S.Fla area who has a Sedona and has had it serviced. Looking for your experience at the service center, good or bad.
Sedona is a no brainer for the money and warranty offered. Concerned (like others who have posted here) on reliability and local dealer service. Undecided between the Sedona and the MPV. Test driven both and am very impressed with both.
Leaning towards the sedona but....
Over all there have been some annoying little things go wrong, I haven't taken in the Paint/ primer issues to the dealer yet but I think he will look after me as he has in the past,
so far I'd give it a 7 out of 10
I just rotated the tires on my Passat this weekend and I used the spare in the rotation. I only rotated front to back and used one of the back tires (had much less wear) as the spare now.
The Passat manual states to only rotate front to back! But, it then states that you can rotate side to side if you see any unusual wear patterns.
Who knows!
4-tire plan:
Move the front 2 to the back, keeping them on the same side of vehicle (LF to LR, RF to RR). Move the rear 2 up front, but switch sides (LR to RF, RR to LF).
5-tire plan:
Move front 2 to the back, keeping them on the same side of vehicle. Move one of the rears to the opposite front corner (LR to RF, or RR to LF). Insert the spare tire into the other spot up front.
I called and left a message that was in a very serious tone.... They have the van again and hopefully this will be resolved... Oh and we also could hear a helecopter like thumping from what seemed to be the tires at 40 mph with the window down. I hope we didnt get a crappy van....
The back power outlets work sporadically while driving.
The door locks sometimes need to be locked individually.
There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to any of these problems.
The service dept says they can't do anything if these problems don't happen to be occurring when I take it in. The closest dealer is 230 miles away, which is a long drive for nothing.
Any advice?
Thanks.
We did have an electrical problem that took out the interior lights, door locks, etc. I posted this about two months ago. The reported problem was a "pinched wire", that was causing some heat issues in the circuit (supposedly -- I never really accepted that as an explanation). The repair also included replacement of ETASC COMP UNIT, according to the service invoice and the explanation that the pinched wire, even though the technician isolated it and "unpinched" it, contributed to frying that component.
Are all of these problems fixing themselves? (e.g., between starts, or just over bumps?)
In our case, I had to reset three fuses in the engine compartment (not the driver access panel) in the proper sequence, using the owners manual to correlate the affected systems to the relevant fuses.
Look forward to your response.
Of course, your experience may vary.
How is the remote supposed to work? Are the lights supposed to flash at lock? Are they supposed to flash at unlokc?
In addition -- what range are people experiencing with their remotes? Mine is about 7 feet.
I'll have to do that this evening.
I have noticed that the remote seems to have issues on hot days in the direct sun (don't ask me why -- seems to be reluctant on hot days).
Other than that it works.
I think I'm reaching middle age -- I'm getting more and more picky about my cars and how they work. So far the Kia is ok. We are enjoying the leather, the driving, the sunroof -- all the options!
Picky in NY.
I am buying my first car and am looking for advice.
Was quoted around $19,800 for a base model sedona LX, this includes tax, delivery, etc.
I have my own financing set up.
From here, I am not quite sure how to bargain down.
Thanks
ps I must say buying you first car is stressful.
I was quoted a $16,995 msrp (this included a $1000 rebate).
This is with no options.
Plus tax, license, destination etc. It came out to around $19,500.
Including tax, delivery etc, what is a realistic goal for my negotiation? Is it crazy for me to think that I can get out around $17,000.
Thanks for your help
If I were shopping for an LX right now, I'd shoot for as close to $18,000 as possible. $18k even might be pushing it, but $18,500 shouldn't require too much dickering. It gives the dealer a decent profit and they should be eager to sell you a van at this price. That is BEFORE taxes and BEFORE the rebate. So add tax to a price of $18,500 and then subtract the $1,000 rebate. I'm not sure what your state or local income tax rates are, but you'll probably be a little < $20k before rebate. After subtracting the rebate, you should be < $19k.
The price after rebate but before taxes is the price that I think people should be discussing, because it's a common denominator (taxes differ by state and sometimes city). This number for you would be around $17,500: $18,500 negotiated price minus $1,000 rebate.
As a general rule, you should bargain UP from the invoice price and not DOWN from the sticker price (aka MSRP). Check Edmunds to see if their invoice figures are the same as, or close to, Carpoint's. If they are, then it's safe to feel you have the correct info. Ask the dealer what their invoice price is. Many dealers are becoming more willing to share this information with customers, since they know it's very easy for the customers to get the information on their own. The invoice price is not the mysterious piece of information that it once was.
Also, try sending a request for quote to several Kia dealers. You can do this via the Kia web site or via many others. Some will respond, and some won't. But this will give you additional bargaining reference points.
I didn't miss type however.
The dealer quoted me a $17,995 minus $100 rebate for an msrp of $16,995 for no option LX.
So is this a steal?
Is $19,500 including tax, license, destination, etc a good deal? Or can I get it for $18,500.
Thanks
In addition to the great advice you're getting here, check out some of our Advice articles. There should be lots of dealers in your area too, so unless there's some pressing need for a new car immediately, you can take your time and shop around for a great deal.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
akinla, please clarify if the $16,995 price includes destination, or if the dealer is adding the $595 destination on to the 16,995. What are the taxes in your area? I'd like to see a breakdown of the items that are moving the quote of $16,995 up to $19,500. Right now, it's hard to tell exactly how good the deal is, but in general it does seem pretty fair.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you !!
You're correct, your first paragraph registered with me but unfortunately your second did not. My apologies. I too would be interested to know how the dealer gets from $16995 to $19500, though I can imagine a number of scenarios where that would be possible. In Ontario, of course, that would be simplicity itself since we have a total of 15% taxes, but hey that's the price you have to pay to live here.
* Which 'additional' charges (advertising, etc.) most dealers are adding to the Sedona's invoice price
* Which of these additional charges customers are accepting as part of the deal, because it appears these are legitimate costs to the dealers.
I'm helping my parents in a vehicle search, and I hope to convince them that Sedona is their best choice. If Sedona offered all-wheel drive, their minds would be made up - lots of snow in West Michigan winters. When we bought our Sedona in Feb. 2002, demand was much higher so I simply targeted $1,000 off MSRP as our final price. I knew the invoice price, but didn't bother to bargain up from there as I normally would. Therefore, these questionable additional charges such as advertising fees were never discussed during our buying experience.
Invoice on a loaded EX is $21,400 including destination. My target is around $22,000 BEFORE rebate, which leaves the dealer with a decent profit. Edmunds' True Market Value is $22,411 which is a good price, but a savvy customer can probably do better. After the $1,000 rebate, the price should be around $21,000. What concerns me is if the dealer says, 'yes our invoice is $21,400 but we also have $xxx marketing fee and $yyy regional advertising fee and $zzz other fees, so the REAL invoice is $xx,xxx.'
Feedback is appreciated.
If your price is reasonable (which your's sounds very reasonable) then you should have no issue.
Whenever the dealer starts with the "well, we have $$ in other fees and the pin stripe costs $$$, etc." it's my queue to do one of two things. 1. Tell him good for him but this is what I'm offering and walk if it doesn't work for him. 2. Offer my condolences and detail the additional subtractions I have to come up with (time to deal, etc. -- petty of me).
The question isn't how much he paid for it. You don't care how much he paid for it. The question is at what price will he sell it to you. Keep the question clear and move on.
This is 100% true. However, I DO care what the dealer paid for the vehicle. The price at which the dealer will sell the vehicle is pretty dependent on the price the dealer paid to acquire the vehicle. At least it should be the buyer's goal to make it so. My goal as a buyer is to get the vehicle for the lowest possible price and make sure that the dealer earns a fair but small profit. This is obviously somewhere above the dealer's cost to acquire the vehicle, or the dealer would not remain in business.
Bottom line: if you aren't keenly aware of what the dealer paid to get the vehicle, then you must bargain without a key piece of information. This often results in people spending more than they need to.
Example: I purchased my 1998 Dodge Caravan at ~1500 below their alledged cost (per Carpoint and Edmunds -- well below TMV). This isn't counting the rebate. This was a new purchase. I'd be hard pressed to believe that the dealer did NOT make a profit since it only took a few hours of negotiating.
Example2: I purchased my 2002 Kia Sedona at ~500 or so below alledged cost as well -- (per Carpoint and Edmunds -- below TMV of course as well) not counting the rebate (i.e.: deduct the rebate afterwards). This too was a pleasant experience and the dealer seemed pleased to make the sale -- so I've got to believe he made money on it as well.
Do your research. Find out what you think his base is. Don't be insulting but decide what you want to pay. If the dealer can meet it great. His profit margin is the least of your worries.
Although I must admit I have had some worries regarding having paid too much for the vans outlined above (too easy???) I did get the price I wanted, it wasn't significantly more than anyone else was paying and both vehicles are a good deal at that price.
Last Friday, my wife (who has only put 600 miles on the car) went out to start it and dead battery!! I had her call free tow in service and found that I would be towed to the closest dealer. Since I live between two dealers the one I bought my car from and the "other one", of course the "other one" was about a half mile closer.
When the car got to the "other one" they informed me that the battery was dead! Amazing. Anyway, the service manager stated that they had received a letter from KIA regarding faulty lumbar switches in some cars that would stick open and slowllllllyyyyyyy drain the battery. They recharged the battery and said that they would have to order the part and it would be in five days later. Also, he said we did not drive the car enough to keep the battery charged up?? How much is required? I didn't notice anything in the owners manual or during the dealers new owner indoctrination spiel that mentioned "you must drive your new KIA for a minimum of x minutes per day to keep your battery charged".
Anyway, we brought the car home on Friday afternoon, it sat idle Friday night, all day Saturday and around noon on Sunday we hopped in our new KIA and decided to go to the movies. RRRRRRRRR! would not start.
Monday morning, (you can't get anybody to talk to on Sunday) we had the car towed back again.
Guess what. The battery was dead. Well now we can E-Order the part and get it this afternoon. Tuesday morning the part was still not there. Tuesday afternoon, it finally came and was installed, the battery was recharged and we were sent home.
It started yesterday (Wednesday) and this morning.
I have yet to feel like the switch was that bad.
To all of you who have not had this problem yet, beware of not driving your KIA every day. I think all the dealers are aware of this lumbar problem, but I don't know if the cars have been recalled. I don't know if it is all Sedonas or only those manufactured in certain months.
I'm sure I saw another post regarding this problem.
Keep you informed.
Also, have there been any updates on the 2003 Sedona? Last I heard they were pushed back until the end of September.