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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • cogdillcogdill Posts: 1
    Was the service department able to fix your turn signal problem? Mine started working properly for several months but has just started malfunctioning again.
  • pvillipvilli Posts: 7
    Anybody have any info getting XM on Audi A4 that was not factory installed? Thanks
  • rapowitzrapowitz Posts: 12
    If your A4 is a "recent" year it may be pre-wired and you can get an XM module for $100 on Ebay from a variety of parts resellers. Instructions are pretty easy.

    If it's not a recent year, then any of the XM modules from Circuit City or Best Buy will work. That may be your ONKY choice. The difference among the dozen or so options is your personal preference and if you want to spend $50 or $300+ on the receiver. I have a basic "Roady" model in a 2001 A4 and it really works very well. I'd recommend the tape player audio output as opposed to the FM receiver because you'll never get fading or static. It looks a bit funkier with the exposed wire, but the tradeoff is worth it.

    Last, if you look on Ebay, you'll find cool little metal mounting brackets that work well with a variety of the XM modules. There's not a lot of great places to mount the modules, so the bracket is just the ticket.
  • I own the same year and model.

    I just replaced the left rear hub bearing.

    For $60.00 from a web site, a few hours labor and the special bearing press, it is as good as new. Wheel bearing noise gone.

  • I hava a 1996 a4 quarto>

    I am having a problem with the air conditioning. It is blowing hot though it is charged.
    Local foreign car shop wasn't able to trouble shoot.

    He mentioned that he thought there was a recal about this year. Any ideas how to test switches and trouble shoot. Does the controller go bad?


  • Hello,

    My 1996 audi a4 quattro is sticking.

    When started, it does not return to the on position, it stays in the starter engage mode. Manually you can turn it to on.

    Also, sometimes it will not shut off completely. It stays in the accesory mode.

    I am an advanced weekend mechanic. Will to diagnose and repair if any one has guidance.

  • rcmrcm Posts: 5
    I use the FM output with a Delphi module in my '02 A4. The car has the standard Symphony stereo unit (6-CD in-dash) and the XM audio quality is quite good. Not quite up to CD quality, but still remarkably good for a standard car stereo and speakers. The tape output sounded harsh to my ears, and looked absolutely awful. My only complaint about the XM unit is the antenna, which I suspect does not receive a signal as well as a factory unit.
  • kranierikranieri Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 A4 1.8 turbo. The clutch just went at 19,000 miles! My husband and I are both experienced stick shift drivers, however Audi tells us that it was "driver error."
    Funny how we have never replaced a clutch at less then 75,000 miles. Audi has done NOTHING to help us in this situation except put the blame on us. Seems like they are good at that being that I have seen similar posts about this issue. Is there any information or suggestions out there to prove that Audi makes a bad clutch? Any suggestions on how to deal with Audi will be helpful.
    I know that Audi doesn't care that they have lost yet another customer :mad:
  • kjh78kjh78 Posts: 5
    Currently I drive a BMW 330XI, however my lease is coming to an end and I was offered a GREAT deal to purchase a new 06 A4 2.0. I was going to just buy out my car (absolutley LOVE my current car-never had any problems), but it would mean I would have to finance for another 3 years. I could purchase the new A4 for $5k more but fianace for 5 yrs (plus lower payments). I feel I should take advantage of this great deal but worried about future problems/reliablity of A4. Reliablity is VERY important to me. I would appreciate any feedback/comments on experience with this car and suggestions about what I should do. Thanks!
  • kcook111kcook111 Posts: 2
    I have almost the exact posting! I have a 2005 A4 1.8T and the clutch died after 25,000 miles. To be exact, two days after having the car serviced. I have had several cars w/ standard transmissions w/out any problems. I agree, Audi is no help at all. Customer Relations will stated that they will support the decision made by the Audi Service department which blames the driver for wear & tear (surprise...surprise). I have complained twice in hopes of finding something to help recover some money. The warranty only states the clutch linings....I am not 100% sure what that means but I just had the "clutch" and "flywheel" replaced. Never mentioned anything about linings on the service receipt. Anyone out there with knowledge about clutches? Little clueless....that is why I bought a premium auto, so I could avoid these issues!
  • kranierikranieri Posts: 2
    My only finding is that it seems that when the cluch runs too hot they fail. Our flie wheel( i think that is what it is called) was cracked it two pieces. This happened when my husband was driving on the highway for an hour and a half on a very hot day. I have seen other posts about cluch problem and they seemed to have been highway driven. I believe Audi has a bad clutch!!
    Does anyone know if the A4 clutch is the same as the A3 clutch? Just wondering.
  • davidgrdavidgr Posts: 1
    I'm totally confused about using the AM/FM radio which is built into the Nav system of my 2006 A4. I like to have the Navigation map active when I drive... even if I'm not getting directions. I can turn on the radio and switch to the map and everything is fine. The problem is how do I turn of the radio but keep the map onscreen. If I turn off the power the radio shuts off, but so does the map. I can't figure out how to just turn off the radio.
    My only option, as far as I can tell, is to switch from radio to CD6 where I don't have a CD loaded, or just turn down the radio volume using the control on the steering wheel or power/volume on the Nav.

    That seems crazy! Does anyone know how I can just turn off the radio? Thanks!!
  • mapattmapatt Posts: 1
    I purchased an Audi A4 in October 2004 with a standard transmission. After 4,000 mile the clutch transmission failed. Audi claimed that this was due to driver error and insisted that I pay for it. After replacement, the clutch lasted another 10,000 miles. In 14,000 miles, I have spent over $5000.00 and lost 5 weeks of usage. Being an experieced standard transmission driver of over 30 years, I find their claims outrageous and a ploy to cover up a defective product at my, the owner’s expense. I hope you will will consider this lack of corporate integretity when making your next car purchase.
  • ian_pian_p Posts: 1
    Hi, I recommend that you keep your 330XI especially if it hasn't had any problems. I purchased my A4 new in Dec 05 (2.0T quattro w/6MT) and have had nothing but disappointing dealer service experiences since. Car has 5,700 miles on it and has been in the shop for different problems at least six times. Now the car has vibrations at 60+ mph that two different dealers in the Washington DC area can't seem to fix. They agree that there are vibrations but seem either unwilling to spend time to identify the problem and fix it or they know but don't want to deal with it. My brother has a 2002 330CI and he has had no problems either. Based on my experience, I think you are better off with your current BMW or a new one. At this point, I can't recommend Audi.
  • samueldsamueld Posts: 6
    Hay Shevi,

    Hows it going? I've been very busy and havent read any post. But now I am. Your battery issue well I have had to replace my battery also and it was all my fault I kept charging my cell phone even though the car was off not good I found out. There are other reasons why batteries die, old age, bad battery. And one of the worst is when your car has a draw, either something is draining the cars battery ie light being on in trunk seen that, or other items. Hopefully yours was just old age. As far a you check engine light my car did the same thing same code and my friend who works for a dealer replaced the vacuum line, he says it common so dont replace the MAF sensor. And if you want to fix it yourself most likely you can. e-mail me and I'll show you pictures of what happened to my car.

    over the weekend I drove alot and a nail got into my rt rear tire so all the air went out and I had to change my tire on the road at 11pm talk about a hot tire, almost burned myself I guess I shouldn't have been speeding. next morning my garage door had a mind of its own and closed on me while I was going out. so I have a good size dent on my hood oh well. changed my spare tire today that wasn't cheap and have to find someone to repair my dent. talk to you soon :shades:

    -------> David

    p.s 117000 and going strong
  • samueldsamueld Posts: 6
    Hay Ray

    Sorry been busy. Check my profile again. My email address is there...

    ----------> David
  • Hey David,
    I missed you! Glad you came back. Well anyway, that sucks about your blown tire. Dude, i was on the side of the road about a month ago, because Both of my right side tires blew when i ran over this small, round black metal thing which i Thought i had missed. I walked to the Wawa, since my cell phone is off, and i called some tow places, i Initially only saw that ONE tire was blown. I got a price of like $90 just for them to tow it about 4 miles to this Supercenter Walmart that i go to sometimes. I finally got a tow estimate that was like $70 and the guy just so happened to be in the area (Umm, actually i think i had decided to just go with a tire change, remembering that i had a spare). I got back to the car and saw that as he was messing with/lifting the car, and thats when i saw the other tire was flat, so i was like "What can i do??" since i only had One spare tire. He was like "Well theres really nothing you can do except get a tow" then he called up a few places/people he knew and apparently was trying to get a cheap estimate for me. I ended up getting a tow for about $75, which wasnt cheap, but slightly cheaper than the norm i guess. *Maybe i already told you guys this sorry...ah well* I ended up getting to the Walmart and they were saying that a they didnt even have Goodyear Assurance and that the cheapest one they could get me would be like $65 or something, then this guy thats worked on my car many times before popped up (he said he was on his lunch brake when i first got there and thats why i ddint see him) and he ended up finding that they Did have some Goodyear ones, so they just charged me as if it the tires were bought There/under warranty and i only paid about $9 for TWO new Goodyear Assurance tires. They had done something like that for me before, but in that case, i only had one tire, which wasnt Blown, but had a nail in the sidewall so it was going to have to be trashed. But this last time, my tires were Shredded. My little story was meant to make you feel better, but in maybe it didnt - seeing as how i didnt have to pay much for my tires, and you did. I have never even changed a tire...guess its a good thing to learn to do. Im sure its easy. But it seems like it would be really hard at Night (if you dont have a flashlight, etc etc). My battery did go dead again - this was about a month ago, i dont think i made a post about it..i dont know. I was outside for Forever..since im not one to flag people down...thought maybe someone would stop out of the goodness of their heart seeing as how i had the hood up, but no one did. Yeah, i think i did talk about this in a post already. So, yeah, i got the $120 something dollar battery, and the car has been starting up Just Fine since then. Its still having the shaking which actually feels/sounds like the engine is about to cut off/struggling to stay on that what Yours sounded like?? Although, maybe you fixed yours before it got to that point - mine wasnt sounding so bad the first 2 weeks to a month of it starting. I'll take your advice and not get the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I've read in this Chilton book or something, that i got from the library, thats its really easy to change the mass air flow sensor, hopefully its easy to to the vaccuum thing too.
    Sorry to hear about the dent. :( *Thinking of something that could make you feel better..* Well, my Bumper has been giving me probs again. The other day, i was out at this little shopping plaza. Im not one to pull my front bumper up on the curb anyway, but when i parked, i did go up just a little far. I glanced and it seemed like the bottom of the bumper wasnt touching the cement. But then when i got back to the car, and backed up, i heard this horrible sound, stopped the car, and saw that the bumper had amost Totally detached from the car, and the bigger/well, harder to reach problem - which i wasnt even sure if could solve by myself - was that the bottom part/cover had come down, but was still attached at the midsection. I did a series of tiny back ups/pull ups to finally get the plastic cover part from up against the cement, so that i could tuck it back under the underside of the bumper....and it looked like the sides of the bumper were going to cooperate enough and let me "snap" them back into that was good...but it took a WHILE for me to get the black cover up and back under the bumper , all the while the people at the Starbucks across the way were probably Staring at me while i was on my knees and stuff. I thought back to how this one guy, one of the Walmart mechanics, said i could use Duck/Duct tape and that would temporarily remedy the situation. Hadnt taken his advice before (partly because this one Audi dealership finally helped me out by putting some nails int he right hand side, they couldnt do the left, and that kept the right hand side up, until this bumper incident, and partly because i Really didnt see tape helping), but i decided to...and walked to the Giant or whatever the grocery store was that was out there, and got some duct tape (it was like $6! Guess thats average, buts its still kind of expensive). And it did/has helped, although, as i suspected it would, the heat has apparently aided in the tape coming loose.

    Gotta go...and i'll see about emailing you soon.

    Thanks sweetie.

  • rix66rix66 Posts: 3
    Our A4 is now 3.5 years old and I was a bit suprized at the $90 bill for an oil change and state inspection. The oil change came in at $60. $30 of that was for the synthetic oil and the balance for the filter and labor. Does that seem high? I searched this forum and in 4/05 someone was paying $30 for an oil change for a 99 A4 at an Audi dealer.

    Since I'm here, I also had a brakelight replaced. This is like the 8th or 9th brake/running/head light to go and I was whining about it and told them I was worried about paying for these when the car comes off warranty. He says "the lights go out on BMW's a lot too". Gee, thanks. Is there something up with my electrical system that they should fix while it's still under warranty? I'm going to be really whining when these are costing me $50-$100.

    And finally, I've been trying to get the fuel pump recall replacement done for 3 months. Is there really a parts shortage or is my dealing feeding me a line? Audi 800 number was denying any shortage but it's hard to have a lot of faith in either one of them..

  • chelle4chelle4 Posts: 7
    I was one of the fortunate ones (I suppose) who got Audi to replace my engine because of the oil problems, however I had to pay $543 to replace water pump, timing belt and ten rollers relay. After getting the car back, now the NEW engine has a leak! All of the coolant is leaking out and I am now being told that I need to pay another $375 to fix this problem on the new engine. They are telling me that they took an old part and placed on the new enigine and that is where the leak is coming from. I do not understand how I am responsible for a leak on the new engine. Could anyone help me with this issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! By the way, the part is $11.00 the remainder is labor.

  • rjadcrjadc Posts: 3
    Just bought a certified 03 A4. Airconditioning blows hot air, took it in and am told it meets Audi standards. This is my first Audi, do they blow cold air at all?
  • Looking for audi owners that have had cam adjuster seal leak repair work done. This repair ran me $573 and was identified when my car was brought in for a coolant flange leak at 50,123 miles. My car had been into the dealership for the 50,000 mile service, still under warranty, just weeks earlier. I did get some assistance with the coolant flange repair. No help was offered with the cam adjustor seal leak, however. I have been told that this is a top 5 warranty repair and Audi has a policy of not identifying these leaks until they are "catagory 3" leak, which means oil is dripping into the engine compartment. My seal leak was at a "catagory 2" (visible moisture, but not dripping) when it was identified as a service issue. On a side note, I also recently had an ignition coil failure at 50,400 miles, which required towing. On this repair, I was told Audi is now using a different ignition coil part than they one used to replace coils under the recall program. Total out of warranty repair work costs at 50,400 miles are now $1,000.
  • On auto, my 2002 A4 doesn't blow cool air when the inside temp. is set relatively close to the current outside temp. Seems to works fine in cool and hot weather.
  • sirjeffsirjeff Posts: 1
    I have an Audi A4 2005 with the same problem.

    My car must have been 'tapped' during parking - I saw no visible bumber damage. The dealer says there is a cut on the bumper. There is an aluminum pipe RIGHT BEHIND THE BUMBER that cracked. This is part of the AC. My PLASTIC radiator mount was also cracked. The dealer charged me around $2000 to fix these and to redo the bumber.


    Audi USA were no help. The dealership in NJ has taken 2 weeks. By the way - they couldnt find the problem the first time I brought it in.
  • I'm looking to buy a 1988 Audi 90 Quattro AWD. It is really great looking with low mileage, and a nice price. Only problems is the engine misfires and the ABS warning light is on.

    Does that mean I have to change the ABS wear sensors on the brakes just like on BMWs? Or is there any other possible problems with Audi's ABS systems?

    What about the engine misfires? What can be wrong with the engine? How much would it cost? How many times does this happen to Audi's? Would I have to keep sinking cash into the car?

    How well are these Audi's? Are they as bad as the very old models of VWs? Or are they as reliable as the older model BMWs? Should I go for this?

    Or, if not, should I go for a 1991 Saab 900s 2 door? How reliable are Saabs? Are their engines good, durable, and powerful?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,480
    You don't want either of these cars IMO. the older Audis are very expensive to repair and the two problems you mentioned could easily bury you.

    The early Saab 900s are prone to head gasket and transmission failure. The bottom ends of the engine are very durable but generally they are not a particularly reliable car---especially an old used one. Overheating, electrical glitchs, lots of body rattles, excessive front tire wear. They drive great and sell for cheap though, so are dangerously seductive.

    Unless you have plenty of extra cash for a "car hobby", stay away from the older Saabs and Audis, would be my friendly advice. If you have another car to rely on, then an old Saab turbo might be fun as a second car. The Audi 90 is pretty dull to drive overall, not like the newer ones which are more fun and more reliable.

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  • gdb20gdb20 Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 A4 1.8 and is getting close to 60,000 miles. I know it is a good pactice that the TB is replaced around that mileage. I was wondering if anyone had done recently and how much does it cost. Is there anything else that need to be done? such as water pump..etc. I still have extended warranty until March next year. will the dealer cover break down du to TB if I wait to do it until the warranty is up.
  • Please would someone recommend an all season tire that has a reasonable life and hadling/ride compromise for a guy who is way past his boy racer years.
  • I have some questions about the A4 1.8T Ultra Sports Package. I think that it is only available on the 2004 model year, is this true? Also, what does the package include besides the (very cool looking) visual upgrades. Another thing i would like to know about is the A4 reliability. Consumer reports rates 2004 and 2005 model years much better than the others, so i just wanted to make sure that the held up well and see if anyone has had any problems with theirs. (If anyone actaully owns a Ultra Sports Package a4, i would greatly appreciate it if they could share their views about the car (how it drives, eronomics, etc...). Thanks :)
  • jloukajlouka Posts: 5
    I seem to be having similar problems with my 2004 A4 and I thought it was just me. Other people I talk to seem to love their A4's and I cant wait to get rid of mine. I also leased mine from Audi of Smithtown . . . actually i'm on my 2nd a4. My first one had so many problems I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and had an arbitration hearing with Audi. They ruled in my favor but unfortunately did not cancel my lease but I did get a new A4 out of it. Anyway, any news on the glove box issue? Mine broke today!!
    When is your lease up?
  • donnaedonnae Posts: 3
    I've had this repair plus 1000 others with my 2002 A4 1.8T. Most recently, my turbo is about to go out and that along with the other repairs I need to have done are going to cost me 3200 dollars. I am getting rid of my car in a couple of weeks. I just found this message board today and its amazing I've had every problem listed here with my car. The exact same thing happened to me that happened to you. I had to pay!
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