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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • really not sure
  • Guys,

    I just got my car back today from the dealership - this is in regards to the "knocking" at engine idle that I've had since I purchased the car at 33k. I've already had it in the shop about a year ago, but they couldn't fix it. I took it to a different dealership and I am happy to announce the "knock" is GONE!

    For anybody curious what the issue was, here is how the invoiced reads:



    I also reported an issue with the starter that made "grinding" noises prior to the engine cranking over, and this issue was also fixed and was directly related to the first issue.

    I'm really pleased!!!
  • Guys,

    Now I need new tires. 2005 A4 2.0T w/TPMS Quattro. Tire size 235/45/17.

    Audi Dealership that fixed my knock problem has Cooper Zeons at $780 which is everything including allignment. I'm currently kinda residing in the sticks, so I can't do Discount Tire or anything like that. We have snow 6 months outta the year, also.

    My first concern is how good of a tire this is in terms of wear? Second, what is a better all around tire for the price? My most important conern is bang for the buck, so if a tire is a bit noiser or has less traction, that's ok.

    I have no experience with A4 tires, so any info is good info.
  • bundytbundyt Posts: 2
    I would ask first is your car AWD
    If you can ask the original owner and if it snows where you are for 6 months a year and you said the car you have owned for over a year, how did the tires on the car now hold up in the snow.
  • Well, this past winter I ran a separate set of wheels and snow tires, but I sold the set a month ago. They were Audi wheels, but they were only 16's and didn't look as nice as the original wheels. BTW, car is QUATTRO - AWD.

    I've got Pirelli's on now, but I think they're a bit pricey. I was just curious if anybody out here recommends a specific tire ranked in the following order:
    -tread life (not advertised, but actual)
    -road noise

    Also, what's an average price to pay for new tires and everything that goes along with new tires including alignment? Is $780 reasonable and are Cooper Zeon's ok???
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I Have the same problem with the engine "grinding" noise when I first start my
    car. I have a 2005.5 a4 2.0t quattro and complained to the dealership a couple
    times and they say they can't fix it. I eventually called audi of america and
    told them about the problem and also to ask them if they knew anything about it.
    They said it was due to the engine oil not heating quickly enough or something
    but doesn't do any damage to the engine. They also said there is no repair for

    So what you had done actually corrected the problem? Which dealership did you go
  • Sam,

    Yes, whatever I explained in my post above in regards to fixing the "knocking" sound in the engine, definitely also addressed the sporadic "grinding" sound of the starter. I should mention that the sound of the starter was something like you would hear if you've ever accidentally kept cranking the starter once the engine turned over - it's a difficult sound to describe, but I knew it was an issue because I could reproduce it at will - not a big deal, but my initial worry was the starter going bad and my warranty is due to expire, so wanted it addressed.

    Again, I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing here, but if you look in my post outlining the fixes, you can maybe mention this to your guys. Do you have any issues with a slightly noiser engine at idle? I didn't really notice it until my brother mentioned it to me saying that didn't sound right - it almost sounded like a diesel with a continual rat, tat, tat at idle.

    Since my car is also a 2005.5, our issues might be related. I'm really particular about my cars - especially expensive cars, so I wouldn't doubt if a lot of people have this problem but don't really care about it.

    The dealership that finally addressed my issue is Kocourek Audi in Wausau, Wisconsin.
  • Yesterday I was driving home and my acceleration just died on my on the highway. I tried to start it back up up and i noticed the engine wouldn't turn over. I was told that it could be a timing belt problem or a trasmission problem. I am praying that it is not the latter. i need any help with this issue. my car only has 87k in mileage. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I think it's the same exact problem. It doesn't do It all the time, but I would say 8 times out of 10 it happens.

    I have found a temporary solution to our problem. If you turn the key to the 3rd stage before actually turning the car on (so all of the electronics are on and the lights on the dash) and wait a few seconds before starting it, it will eliminate the problem probably 50% of the time. However this still doesn't completely fix the problem. I will bring my car in again and tell them to do whatever it is that they did to your car to fix it.

    Luckily, I had the dealer look at the problem before my warranty ended (which was at the end of march) so I should still be covered

    Thanks for all your help and also, have you had any other problems with your car?

  • does anyone know how hard it is to replace a radiator / thermostat? dealership quoted me over $5k!
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    If you have no record of a timing belt change it's very likely that it did fail. I assume you have the 1.8T engine as well? If so, you could have severe engine issues. The problem could be anywhere from bent valves to holes in the pistons as that engine is an 'interference engine'. A break to the timing belt at speed causes significant damage in most cases.

    I hope it's not that bad for your sake as the repairs for this kind of damage can be expensive.

    Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Too much!

    I called a very good shop in the SF Bay Area and they quoted about $2,000.


    timing belt, water pump, pulley bearings, hydraulic tensioner, thermostat, radiator (BAER, not a cheapo radiator), coolant, all labor.

    Unless you have issues other than mentioned above, your quote seems way too high. You have to compare what's on their estimate with what I've mentioned.
  • thanks for your response... i have only called one place but thought it was kind of high! haven't had much free time to do more research but pretty sure it will be worth my time in checking out other options...

  • hauschild1hauschild1 Posts: 8

    I bought my car at 33k and have had way, way, way more maintenance issues with it than I have had with all the cars and trucks I've owned in my life, all Fords. The good news is that they were all covered under warranty. The bad news is my warranty expires in about two weeks. Here is what I remember of all the issues I've had addressed:
    -faulty brake light switch - caused battery to die (a real doozy to diagnose)
    -replaced rear seat latch
    -replaced coolvant valve
    -replaced windshield wiper motor
    -fixed issue with the engine sounding like a diesel
    -replaced glove box - it broke off the right side - the hinge is plastic, surprisingly

    These are most of them and were not show-stoppers, meaning I was never stranded.

    I am wondering about EXTENDED WARRANTIES. Anybody care to chime in on whether it is worth the price? The cost at the dealership is anywhere from 4-6 k, which is a lot IMO. I'm wondering if one is better off using that money on another pre-owned that has another 1.5-2 years of warranty remaining???
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34

    If your warranty expires in two weeks, find any additional concerns you may have with the car, take the car to the dealer with a list of issues IN WRITING and have them corrected. Also, if the vehicle has ANY remaining maintenance servicing to be performed under "Free Servicing" have them documented and completed. As most of your items appear to be small nuisance items, it appears you have a pretty stable vehicle. As far as an extended warranty goes, your best bet is to keep your money, sell the car in a year or so and then invest in a later model that may serve your needs.

  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34

    If your timing belt failed it may be the result of a faulty part as the service guide for the 1.8T requires change out at 100,000 miles. There has been an issue with these failing before recommended replacement time and the NHTSA has a data base and log on complaits and corrective actions against AudiUSA. Check the NHTSA website for your specific year and model. I might give you some leverage with the dealers.
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I bought my car new and have a couple of the same problems. I've had to replace the rear seat latch countless times as there is a rattle in the back seat that my dealership can't seem to fix. They keep connecting it to that latch... Also, I've had to replace the glove box for the same exact problem, and I've also had the engine grinding noise. Hopefully all will be corrected on the 18th, and will post back then.

    Also, I say the extended warranty is a waste of money, however the quotes you got seem very high. I got a couple that ranged from 3-5k.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    I have the 2005+ Audi A4 and I noted recently that new literature on my model says to replace the timing belt at 75,000 miles.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    If your budget permits, trade it in on a newer used model. There may even be a new one the dealer wants to move. What year is your car? Maynot make sense if you owe way more than it's worth. Could go back to ford. The fusion sel awd is sweet and cheap.
  • audia42007audia42007 Posts: 2
    When I turn my brake light goes on it start beeping like for 10 seconds then it turns off. I think that it happens when there is an inclination like a ramp such as a highway exit.
    Car is an Audio A4 year 2007.
  • greg96greg96 Posts: 1
    Hi there-

    I have a 1999 A4 qtro and the airbag light is on. i took it to a non-dealer repair guy and he told me the problem was in the seatbelt/sensor area. he quoted $575 to fix it. admittedly, i was dealing with a crying baby when we spoke, so i didnt get all the details. can anyone shed light on this repair quote....does it sound reasonable to replace what he is talking about? many thanks...
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Check your fluid level in the brake reservoir. It certainly sounds like the low brake fluid warning; and it's being caused when the car is anything but level and the fluid shifts.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    I also have a 2002 A4 1.8 Quattro. I used to live in the great white north (now in the deep south) and I experienced the same problems when it was cold. Gas mileage was bad and experienced same conditions as you note. I checked with several shops and owners and most have a similar experience. It appears that since the car is an "all-wheel" drive, it has two driveshafts, two differentials and all the associated CV joints and lubricants that MUST warm up through driving. The initial feeling of "the emeergency brake being on" will go away after the units heat up. I just went through a winter here in the south (if you can call it that, more like late spring) and noted that even on the coldest days (30-40 degrees) did not really notice the "sluggishness". One thing that you may want to look at is the fluid in the gearbox. Over a period of time (don't know if you had it changed in the 6 years you have the car), the fluid can thicken. Perhaps you can get it changed (not a real cost killer) and see if it makes a difference.
  • amandamand Posts: 5
    I have a 02 3.0 A4 and had same issue. mine has a small plastic piece in the tank that is the sensor. Their is also a small removable screen. It is possible to push the screen a bit too much so that it pushes the sensor down. Just pulling the screen out, wiggling the sensor and placing the screen back gently back resolved my issue. All the best.
  • nashikulnashikul Posts: 3

    For my 2001 A4 2.8T v6 apparently some engine oil is leaking from the cam tension chain gasket. Since this is a v6 engine, the repair shop is claiming that both sides of the engine needs to be dismantled. (Pardon me if I am not making sense, I am repeating what the mechanic told me). He is quoting 10 hours of labor and parts for a total of approx $1200. We have already replaced the timing belt, hoses etc. less than 6k miles ago. I called the dealer and they quoted me approx $1645. So is $1200 reasonable?

    Thanks in advance,
  • macchinamacchina Posts: 2
    I have heard horror stories and read bad reviews on Audi reliability for the previous years.

    When researching predicted reliability, Consumer Reports cannot predict because it's new. US News gives it a 5 out of 10 rating for reliability and other sites I've researched saw pretty much the same thing.

    I love the car but would hate to spend time and again at the dealership or have to pay for the repais on my own down the line - been down that road with my VW Jetta.

    But I do love the A4!!

    Any thoughts?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Being a V6 does mean that there are two cylinder banks to deal with so that part of the quote seems accurate. Also, the 'spread' of $445 between dealer prices and independent shop prices makes me think that the $1,200 is about right. I can't say from experience but I do know that working on these V6's can be difficult as they are packed in the bay pretty tight.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    If your former car was a Jetta, get ready for a similar experience from Audi, as they are both owned by the same parrent company, Volkswagen and they share a lot of the same parts, engineering and dealer mentality.

    One thing to keep in mind with ANY dealership, is that you must make all concerns related to service in writing and ensure that anything needing to be serviced, is serviced. I have found that most Audi dealerships will say that servicing has been performed however it may not be.

    Story is... be prepared to check that all work is done. If all servicing is performed when needed and the car is properly maintained, it should have the same reliability as other brands.
  • audia42007audia42007 Posts: 2
    Good Audi Car Repair Shop in the DC area - Dealer or Independent .

    Anybody knows a good Audi Car Repair Shop in the Washington DC area ( DC, VA or MD).

    Please feel free to chime in.

    It could be dealer or independent.
  • tgai69tgai69 Posts: 7
    I have a B5(97-00) pretty easy if you are used to grease and grime i followed directions from here..
    and here..
    ...also that price isnt reasonable for a "gasket" replacement. Audi's come apart easily if you have the right tools e.g. allens. High shop prices are another way of saying they havent worked on your car make before ;)
    good luck!
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