Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • jevans0024jevans0024 Member Posts: 1
    hey im having the exact same issues i was wondering if u figured out the problem.
    And how much did u spend to get it fixed..
    [email protected]

    i hope u can help me out
  • richb1richb1 Member Posts: 9
    2003 A4 with 90,000 miles. At random times, I get a short (about 1 second) squeal from my engine...always when I let up on the clutch and start on a slight incline in 1st gear. Usually happens in the first 10 minutes of first driving the car. It happens so infrequently that I had to actually tape the noise on a portable tape recorder to play it for my mechanic. He's clueless as to what it could be and wasn't able to hear it when he kept the car overnight. Recently had the timing belt replaced. Another mechanic suggested that it sounds like a worn bearing somewhere in the engine but difficult to know for sure since it happens so rarely. One mechanic suggested a throw out bearing in the clutch which was replaced at54,000 miles. Any help would be appreciated.
  • 99a4q99a4q Member Posts: 2
    First Post- Any help would be appreciated.

    My A4 recently started acting up when pulling into traffic. At around 2K RPM's the car stutters and is sluggish, but once moving seems OK. To pull into traffic, I need to get RPM's much higher in order to ensure performance. Ironically at the same time the hesitation began occuring, the Air Conditioning would fade out when sitting in traffic and would only condition the air once moving. There is a slight "Catch" I can fill before the air begins to run cool. (not sure if there is a belt that operates the AC or not and unsure if the issues are related)

  • lp730lp730 Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2003 A4 Quattro 3 liter. I don't seem to get the mileage posted. I seem to get about 50-60 miles less in the city. I purchased the car from Dar Cars dealership about 1 month ago.
  • weeksyweeksy Member Posts: 1
    My car has started shuddering when it is changing gear, sometimes the engine management light flashes and sometimes it doesn't. The garage said it was the sensors and has changed them and nothing else has shown up on their computer. It has been in the garage twice now for this problem and I have just got it back again and is now doing the same thing. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    In order to properly diagnose that problem you need to pull the codes with a code reader. Without that information it's almost impossible to determine what the problem is. It could be any number of things from coil packs, spark plugs, MAF sensor or a number of other items causing the engine to mis-fire.
  • leonglleongl Member Posts: 2
    Hi, all

    My 06 A4 2.0T starts to jerk/shudders when I change the gear. It feels like step on brake and the car was kicking back. The problem is most noticeable when moving from 4th gear to the 3rd gear and minor when moving from 4th to 5th, it can also be felt when move the gear from parking to reverse position even when the car is stopped.

    I suspect it is a transmission problem, any comments or thoughts? (no warning light is on so far). How much does it cost to fix the problem? Also, my car is close to 54k miles, and I plan to take the car to Audi service center to do the maintenance, so will 54k maintenance solve the problem automatically?
  • roxproxp Member Posts: 4
    My 09 TT is now having transmission problems. The part is on backorder so it is like take ur car back, drive it (jerking when switching gears) make ur car payments, and we will call you when the part arrives from Germany. They did the same thing with my A4 was returned on the Lemon Law.
  • gpb59gpb59 Member Posts: 104
    Different shops are giving me different answers. One tells me you have to use Mobil 1,
    another says you don't need synthetic, one says you can use 5-30 or 5-40. What do most people use and if you use synthetic how long between changes? Also I live in Las vegas where it's pretty hot
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    You need an approved oil that has the proper VW 502 spec. Mobil 1 European Car Formula meets that spec and there's also a Castrol version that's generally available. They are both synthetic, and I would NOT use that person who told you that you do not need synthetic for any work. Obviously they are very ill informed on the needs of your Audi.
  • audiphile3audiphile3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi All: I have checked forum posts for problem shown above. My understanding is that the hazard flasher is integrated within the hazard switch itself. My problem is rather strange...the hazard flashers AND the turn signals quit working simultaneously. Also, not only is there no flashing, the lamps do not even light up when the turn signals or hazard lamps are activated. Can I assume that unless the hazard flasher controls BOTH hazard light and turn signal functions, the problem is being caused by something else? I have pulled and checked EVERY fuse in the fuse panel under the left side fuse panel cover. Is there another fuse panel that I am not aware of? Also, if there is a separate flasher for the turn signals, can anyone advise of the location and/or part number of the flasher? Mystified... audiphile3/vwdawg
  • mrsjjjonesmrsjjjones Member Posts: 4
    edited August 2010
    I bought a 2000 A4 Quattro last week and today I had the oil changed for the 1st time. They put 5 quarts of synthetic oil in it. This afternoon the check engine light came on and when I had it checked, the message related to the catalytic converter warm up below thresh hold. The car has a slight leak over one of the fuel injector s which I have scheduled to be fixed and to have the injector looked at for damage. Could these be related issues? The car didn't have an owners manual so I'm looking for one. I am new to auto mechanics but would like to understand what is happening with my car. Thanks for any words of wisdom!
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Get that injector leak fixed and then clear that code and see if it comes back. Converters are very sensitive to air/fuel ratios and if your leak is causing it to run lean it could be throwing that code. Also, did they use the full 5 quarts of oil? If they did that's an over-fill for the 2.0 engine (assuming that's what you have and not the V6). I would check the oil level as well and be sure it's not over the maximum fill line. If you have too much oil in the engine it can foam up as the crankshaft whips it up and that cause issues.
  • mrsjjjonesmrsjjjones Member Posts: 4
    I have the V6 engine in my Audi.
  • mrsjjjonesmrsjjjones Member Posts: 4
    I double checked with the mechanic who changed the oil and he said he called in to check and they actually put 6 quarts of oil into the engine. Is that correct on the V6?
    We will fix the leak and check over the injector and go from there on the other error. Thanks.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    I cannot be sure if that's correct for the V6, but 6 quarts 'could' be correct.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    6 quarts with the oil filter is correct.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello all: Just replying to follow my original post (#2228) from 8/810. I did discover that BOTH the hazard and turn signal flashers are integrated into the hazard warning SWITCH located in the center of the dash. This was after I had pulled out the lower dash cover underneath the steering wheel, found SEVERAL devices that looked like they might have been flasher units, and bought a new one that didn't solve the problem (couldn't return it, of course). Anyway, the plastic trim around the radio must be popped out, which accesses two 10MM bolt heads, remove the bolts, pull out the metal frame, then just pull the old flasher switch straight out. I found a flasher at a salvage yard for $5, but they can be found new on line for around $60. Good luck...audiphile1/vwdawg
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello, all: '97 A4 2.8Q w/ 80k miles. Steering rack was leaking PS fluid through seals. Replaced both high and low pressure hoses (got them custom made at a hydraulics supplier using old fittings, for a lot less than buying new ones), and also put in a used rack. This solved the leakage, but now the steering is rather hard. Could this be due to air in the system, and should the system be bled? Any other possible causes here? Feedback much appreciated. Thanks! vwdawg/audiphile1
  • wwlanewwlane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 A4 and I am getting a code for fuel rail pressure too low. The fuel pump and pressure regulator has been changed but still getting code. When trying to accelerate car loses power and bogs down. Any suggestions?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Is the car OK at idle? If so you may have a blocked fuel filter.
  • stickball13stickball13 Member Posts: 2
    Hello -
    I just purchased a 2011 A4 - awesome car. Although, as soon as I left the dealer I noticed that the steering wheel is off-set a little to the left (sometimes almost an inch). The car does maintain straight on the road, and the alignment and drive of the car is 100%. This is not due to the crest in the road - the wheel is still cocked on a perfectly level, straight paved road. I was wondering if anyone else experienced this problem with their Audi and what to do. I don't want to (or have the dealer) mess with the alignment if not neccessary.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    If it is just a poorly installed steering wheel they should be able to remove it and shift it a a few 'splines' to line it up properly.
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    So I opted to swap out my own rear bulbs. Removing the assembly was easy enough, but finding the right bulbs killed me. Converting GE bulb numbers to Sylvania numbers; matching prongs and Volts and Watts. Ugh. Anyone else had this issue?

  • eddie650eddie650 Member Posts: 26
    Replacing rear light bulbs is a challenge. I had taken my car to a local Goodyear dealer that I trusted and they got it wrong. I drove off after the repair and then after a while the light was out again. In addition to the problem of figuring out the right bulb, they broke a piece of the bracket holding in the light fixture so that now it doesn't quite fit in tighly like it should. I ended up taking it back to the dealer for them to install it (free) and a few trips to Pep Boys to get the right bulb.

    I found this experience to be a perfect example of how it can be frustrating to own a luxury car instead of a Honda Accord as I had before.

  • toddicustoddicus Member Posts: 1
    Hey Everyone,

    So I'm in the process of choosing a new car and I have narrowed it down to three wagons. The A4 Avant, the BMW 3 series wagon, and the Cadillac CTS wagon. I'm having a very hard time deciding. I was totally set on the A4 but a neighbor warned me to stay absolutely away due to the ongoing issues of his. Everything from the ipod connectivity to the engine sucking a quart of oil every 2k miles kept his 09 A4 in the shop more than on the road. So I thought to ask everyone here in this forum if they know of any below average reliability or maintenance issues with the newer A4's... Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated!
  • lyallbarbourlyallbarbour Member Posts: 1
    I've had my Audi for 3 years now and bring it into the dealership for regular service. I've been driving it much more lately (used to walk to work) so can see the distance between service visits become much shorter in the coming years. Is there a repair manual (Chilton Guide?) for 2005 Audi A4 that's inexpensive? I've seen them range from 100 to 2000 dollars USD. Could i get use a forum like this to, say, change the oil or change air filters, etc?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Chilton's would be of limited use to you but would cover some basics. You get what you pay for. Better than nothing, but rarely good enough. The best manuals for German cars come from Bentley Publishing, but I don't think they have an A4 in print form. They might have something on CD or DVD, but I hate those. Nothing like a book in front of you when you are trying to repair something!

    Sure, you can use our Forums to ask questions and also don't forget we have a very nifty ANSWERS DEPARTMENT for additional advice.
  • lily_a4lily_a4 Member Posts: 1
    A couple weeks ago when driving my 2006 a4 a spring popped off from my clutch pedal (or so the tow truck driver told me it was).. I cannot find anyone to replace this or even check it. I have had such a HORRIBLE experience dealing with the Audi Dealerships in Dallas, TX, that I am never going back to one. Does anyone know if this is a simple/common repair, or of a good mechanic in the Dallas, Tx area?
    I really like this car, but have had my fair share of troubles with it.
  • davida2davida2 Member Posts: 16
    Back with another issue with my audi. I have been noticing increasing valve chatter coming from the engine area, to the point that when I drove home one day, my wife thought she heard a diesel engine in the car. I was told that it could be the valves and they need to be redone. As I understand it, there's no adjustment on these, only replacement of some parts.

    Is this truly a valve issue? or do I need to check somewhere else first? Thanks for sharing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Did you change your oil recently and did you use a non-Audi oil filter or some budget quick-change filter? If so, this can be a problem with the V-6 engine and induce valve noise. Just an outside chance---it has happened.

    That is correct---there are no adjustments to the valves, so it's possible you have defective lifter or lifters, or a worn camshaft. Please check your oil level and if you're due for a change, get an Audi filter and see what happens.
  • pehpeh Member Posts: 2
    Wendyx, did you solve the front end shuddering on your A4? Mine does the same exact thing on acceleration. Not brakes, they're good.
    Thanks PEH
  • pehpeh Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 A4 Cabriolet shudders upon acceleration. Not a brake problem or wheel balance. At any acceleration speed....0 to 30 or 40 to 50 etc.
    Anyone have the answer?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    lyallbarbour: Shiftright is right, the best manuals would be obtained from Bentley, IF they happen to publish one for your model. I have a Haynes manual for my 97 A4, and like Chilton, they are fairly useful for your basic repairs/maintenance. You can also check with a dealer for a full-blown manual, but that's going to be big bucks. I think you meant "$100 to 200", not "$100 to $2,000", right? audiphile3
  • simonmjsimonmj Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Audi A4 3.0 convertible's check engine light came on and I just had the ignition coil recall performed. My check engine light continues to come on...the computer kept showing misfires on Cylinders 3 & 4. There was about a 5 second rough start when the engine was started cold. After a week in the shop, the dealership says it is a coolant leak in cylinder 3 only...they are no longer seeing misfires on cylinder 4. They want $2400 to take the engine to a machine shop and THEN will give me an estimate for the repair assuming they find the problem. Any advice?
  • 3subeowner3subeowner Member Posts: 9
    My A4 Quatro fuel sensor stopped working just after the 50,000 mi warranty expired. The low fuel warning light is on all the time, the miles remaining indicator is not accurate and the fuel gauge does not work. I use the digital trip odometer to show how many miles driven after a fill-up. My dealer in CT told me I am out of warranty and thus have to pay possibly hundreds of dollars just to diagnose the problem by plugging into their diagnostic machine. I have not seen any discussions in various forums about failed fuel sensors in an A4 with less than 100,000 miles. This should not be a part that wears out/fails so quickly. I will talk to the local service manager again to ask if they will diagnose the problem at their cost and fix it at their cost. If they argue with me, I will try to get a contact in the US service management team. I have the Haynes manual to show how to access the fuel tank to replace the sensor (2 sensors in the fuel tank because of AWD). I have the means to replace the sensor outside of the local dealer, but would prefer that it be handled at the dealer level. It seems to me they would want me to purchase another Audi when I am ready for my next car. Any recommendations from the forum are appreciated.
  • 3subeowner3subeowner Member Posts: 9
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    simonmj: Just like a medical problem, I would say "get a second opinion" Sorry, I'm not a big fan of dealerships...some are good, some are outrageously bad. Find an independent Audi specialist and ask them to check out this issue. I find it ridiculous that you should spend $2,400 just to find out it there is even a problem. Personally, I would put some high-quality "stop leak" in the cooling system, but that's only MY opinion. Some of those products are very effective at solving this type of problem. In any case, you should certainly attend to this relatively quickly.
    Let us know what happens here. audiphile1
  • buster37buster37 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2006 Audi A4 Cabbriolet 1.8t has begun to shutter and shake under light acceleration at speeds of around 20-30. It seems to happen most often while turning left through an intersection, and then accelerating away from the turn. Our beloved Audi only has 39,000 miles on it, we have no SES lights on, and have not taken it to a shop yet. Any help from you guys on what you think it might be would be greatly appreciated!!! We love our car, but are scared about what this shuttering could mean. Please help us!!!!
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Likely not a transmission issue but rather a CV joint or wheel bearing. Given that it happens only under the circumstances you mentioned. A good mechanic should be able to diagnose it quickly and if it's a CV joint the damage should be visible.
  • joeyl328joeyl328 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I am in the market for a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T quattro with 40k miles. Fun to drive, but I am concerned with the cost of maintenance. I have heard mixed reviews. The other car I am considering is actually a Nissan Murano. I know the Audi is much more of a driver's car, but I would like to get an idea of what sort of premium I would pay to have such a car? Oil change prices/etc? Or is it only if/when a repair is needed that the higher costs show their ugly head? How often is a repair required (guesstimate). Thanks!
    Joel :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Your best approach with an Audi is scheduled, methodical, pro-active maintenance. In other words, the car goes into Dieter and Hans in the spring and fall, whether it seems to "need" anything or not. This may seem over-indulgent, and might cost you $100/$150 a month, but believe me, it's the cheap way out if you have an Audi out of warranty.
  • joeyl328joeyl328 Member Posts: 2
    thank you, I guess another question is how much more should I guess I would be paying for maintaining the audi over a 5 yr stretch vs a nissan murano... :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You might find the Edmunds MAINTENANCE COSTS TOOL a very handy way to answer that question accurately.
  • incorporatedincorporated Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,

    Yesterday my coolant light came on. I checked the level and it was right at the low line. My dealership was closing before I got off work, so I just drove home, planning to pick up some G12 today. I woke up, and checked the level of the coolant reservoir, and to my surprise, there wasn't anything registering at all.

    I found no sign of a leak, of any sort, nor could I smell any hint of coolant that may have "burned". I just bought the car, used, two weeks ago from a dealer. It's a '04 A4 1.8 Quattro. Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Have the cooling system pressure tested and see what's up.
  • windinmyhair5windinmyhair5 Member Posts: 1
    I am currently shopping for a convertible. My search began with BMW's but I quickly changed my mind to either an Audi or Saab.

    In my research, it seems they are close. Saab's get high reviews, while Audi's are mixed.

    The styles are similar as well. Prior to purchasing, I am now at the phase where I need to research maintance and issues. Oil changes, true gas mileage, problems etc. Can anyone who may have owned either of the above shed some light on these questions?

  • kristyloukristylou Member Posts: 6
    I have a 01 Audi Quattro. I'm in need of help with my vehicle. I hope somebody will answer to this. My air suspension light came on this morning on my Vehicle and i noticed the rear is just sagging and wont come up at all... I called the dealer but nobody has got back to me yet about it.. What should I do.. Any recommendations. Money is no option for me. . Just want my car fixed.

  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    The cost of repairing air suspensions is very high, leading some who are faced with your decision to convert to a conventional (no-air) suspension. There are companies that make kits for this, but I can't think of the name(s) at the moment. Owners who have taken this route are generally happy with the results, and the savings.

    Between Edmunds, Google, and independent Audi specialists, you should be able to find the best solution for your car.
  • jimmjohnjimmjohn Member Posts: 4
    Hello KristyLou.. If your air suspension light came on you should have checked it immediately.. Something was obviously going on with the vehicle that needed to be fixed. Im sorry to hear that your rear air suspension has went out on you. And i can go ahead and let you know that the dealer price is going to be crazyy expensive.. around 4-7 thousand dollars. The reason i know this I have a 06 Audi All road and my air suspension system went out as well in the rear.
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