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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    This is only $270 below invoice. This is not good in my opinion. I understand you are in a different region of the country but someone reported $750 below invoice in TX within the last couple of days. Buy if you need a car right away but i can only imagine way better prices a few weeks from now.
  • Thanks everyone for your comments - it's the insight I needed. Great to hear from both sides of the table.

    ISELL, I did shop around a bit before when we got to a price I though was good, I said yes, but it was for the wrong deductible and 1 less year. As noted earlier, I am a bonehead. I own that. Everyone is trying to make a living - he's selling something and I bought it. I'm mad at myself more than mad at them.

    However, he did flat out lie to me to close the sale and that's what I'm pissed at. There is a 6000 mile limit to be considered new. I asked point blank and he said I doubted myself because he is the expert. Rewarding that behavior just seems wrong to me which is why I asked for advice. I'm glad I understand the surveys better.

    So I was lied to by a car salesman. Chalk up to experience and move on.

    Next topic...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225

    We don't disagree. We agree.

    It's not fair and it's not right and soliciting HONEST FEEDBACK surveys wold be a great thing.

    Unfortunately, this is not the way Honda (and others, I'm told) do this so until it changes (not holding my breath) it is a seriously flawed system that produces tainted results.

    I'm done..thanks for listening.
  • I read this forum every few days. It was a shame to see it turn into a one vs. the other post a few pages back. I have been reading this forum for the past few years and consider myself to be fairly advanced in the car buying game. I have bought 6 Hondas over the past 12 years and will be in the market for 2 more in another year. I have also helped a bunch of friends buy cars that were not Honda.

    I think the best way to sum it all up is that buying a car is a game. The goal for the customer is to get the lowest price, the goal for the dealer is to get the greatest profit. As I tell my friends who I have helped, once you realize it is all a game, you are better off. I have seen all sorts of tactics from dealers, both good and bad. And I have tried different strategies and have been very successful. What I have learned is that there are many different rules, and they change all the time.

    So with that, I think you both give good advice. The game is all about finding that dealer who is willing to break even or lose money on the car. How do you do that? I think it changes all the time. So a lot of Brians advice works, but not all the time and not in all areas. And those cases, Isell makes good points. Maybe there is no merit to the day of the month, who knows. I do believe however that if you find a dealer who has a target of sales, and they are close, you can do better at the end of the month. Now this one I have never tested but in my next round of purchases I will try it.

    I was talking to a service person in a dealership two weeks ago He told me the dealer has a really aggressive sales target for that month they want to meet. I have to think if they are close, and it is the last day, they will bargain more. But if they arent up against a target, the day won't matter.

    My last Honda purchase of a few years ago: I was doing internet negotiating with dealers by email, the price wasn't budging much. Then I read someone on here who got the car for $1,000 less. He told me where he got it from and the salesperson. I called that salesperson up, mentioned the name of the user on this forum and within 5 mins, I got the same deal, even $100 cheaper. The dealers I was negotiating with said there was no way that dealer would deliver the car. It was the V6, one told me that I was mistaken, the price was for the I4. They were all wrong, I drove up to that dealer, got the car nice and easy, and saved a lot.

    It was just a question of finding that dealer who was willing to make no money on the car.

    So in summary, it is all a game with very few rules. What works today may not work tomorrow, and sometimes you need some luck. The beauty of the internet is we can all share our strategies and learn from each other. So lets not turn this into a one vs. the other, lets figure out how to get better at the game.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Adam - thank you for the excellent post. One of the best I have seen recently. Occasionally we need someone to point out the primary reason this excellent forum exists - to provide us all a place where we can request and offer real world advice on how to get the best deal we can get on a vehicle purchase. There have been a number of contentious posts recently which have detracted from that objective. To those willing to listen, Isell has a lot to offer because of his many years of experience and I believe he presents his point of view with integrity and honesty. From the other side, Brian, with his vast experience in wheeling and dealing, passionately volunteers to impart his knowledge to others so they can achieve the best possible deal. I have a great deal of respect for both these guys for what they do for this forum.

    But, as you have pointed out, there are many ways to go about this and the process is dynamic - constantly changing. I enjoyed your story about your last Honda purchase - had you not been reading this forum, you might not have landed such a great deal - should be a lesson to us all.

    Thanks again for the great post!

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    Hello everyone. So I just recently got out of the military (USMC) and want to buy myself a new vehicle (currently have a 98 civic w/ 202,500 miles!) kinda like a gift to myself. After sitting in my friends Accord Sport, I fell in love with it. My question is: how many people here got below invoice prices before taxes? I qualify for military and also college graduate discount, just want to see how much lower I can get. I want to buy in the next few days here in the Los Angeles County. Any preferred dealers? Also should I wait for 2014 model, or is it unchanged in the Sport trim? I greatly appreciate it since I'm so excited to buy this weekend =)
    Also is extended maintenance/warranty worth it? Yes, I plan to keep this car forever! Haha as you can tell with my current Civic.

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited September 2013
    Running out to shoot a round of golf today. Well written post Mr adamr1.

    Tks Mr Bill

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Extended service contracts are a bet. On all bets, the house wins. Better to put the money away rather than give it to the dealer. In all cases, a third party extended service contract is risky. Google US Fidelis.

    An amount of $795 for GAP is insane. Almost all profit for the dealer. Check your insurance, some offer a GAP product for a small amount. Ask yourself how many vehicles you have totaled. Is a $795 insurance plan which will likely never be used and which would probably pay only $1,000 or so if it were ever used a wise way to spend money?

    Remember, best not to believe anything a car sales person tells you. They are not your buddy. And always, say NO to anything the F&I manager tries to sell you. Everything they offer is grossly overpriced and most have limited value.
  • In Chicago and close suburbs, I received quotes for the 2013 Accord Sport CVT ranging from 21,500 to 22,100 (and higher), including dest. but not TTL. They look like they are slow to sell here, but dealers are not coming down in price. I'm hoping to buy soon. Also would appreciate advice on extended maintenance/warranty. Thanks all.
  • Ricky,

    Because you qualify for both the miltary rebate and the college grad rebate, I would say that you should expect a great price on the 2013 sport. If you are planning to finance with Honda (they still have low rates right now up to 0.9% for 36 months), then you are possibly eligible for $500 Flex Cash (depending on the dealer). I would shop around several dealers in your area, but would start your bidding somewhere between 2,500-2,000 below invoice. In the end you should target getting a price 1,500-2000 below invoice because you are eligible for 1500 in direct rebates, and there is still an additional ~$490 in holdback on this vehicle.

    For Accord Sport CVT (including destination) invoice is 22929
    For Accord Sport Manual (including destination) invoice is 22199

    For Accord Sport CVT (including destination) target price should be 20929 +ttl
    For Accord Sport Manual (including destination) target price should be be 20199 + ttl

    Also, my personal preference with negotiation is to start all bidding using a drive-out quote. This way you are not surprised with any egregious fees when it comes to sigining the contract.

    In Southern CA i think the tax rate is 6.5%, expect to pay ~200 extra in dmv (title, registration, license), and ~125 extra in doc fees.

    I would start your bidding at 22k OTD for the CVT and 21.3k OTD for the Manual. Target should be 22.5k OTD for the CVT and 21.8 OTD for the Manual.

    I would search all the dealers in your area and find the one with the largest inventory of '13 sports. They have the greatest incentive to offload these vehicles in prep for the `14. Since you keep your cars for a very long time, I would think resale value is not an immediate issue, and thus the `13 will be a much better deal. There is fewer incentive for a good deal on the `14 and there are virtually no changes to the actual vehicle.

    Internet managers are the easiest to deal with. Have them bid for your deal directly.

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    edited September 2013
    Thanks for your dedicated service Ricky - I'm a 30 year retiree from the Corps. If you have a little time to work with, you will probably be able to land a good deal on a 2014. There are many Honda dealers here in SoCal, pricing could reach 1000 or more below invoice by Dec. Color and trim choices for the 2013s have become limited so it might be difficult to find exactly what you want. You might try Weir Canyon, Cerritos, and Spreen Honda. I know they are outside of LA, but might be worth a try. Review the last few months posts in this thread and come back to ask questions and seek opinions.

    Bill G

    Oops - Just noticed you said ASAP - in that case, joely has offered a solid plan. Just try to work with as many dealers as you can to get the competition going.
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • honda Accord LX auto in NJ

    20369 includes destination
    400 doc fee

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    If that is for a 2013 model, that's $1000 below invoice. Not a bad deal but you could get a few hundred dollars off the sale price since 2014s are rolling onto dealer lots.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 3,042
    Last Sunday bought '13 EX, no extras except painted pinstripes for $22,933 less $500 from American Honda Finance 60 mo 1.9 for $22,433 before tax, tag,admin. Dealer offers lifetime power train warranty at no cost, ha. Satisfied with the price and am very impressed with the car, champagne frost pearl. So far it is getting the same gas mileage as the '09 Civic EX that it replaced.

    2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2013 Honda Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • Isell jumps on here every six months or so to whine about people using the internet to get the best price. Or complain that low margins make salesmen stupid. Or something else ridiculous, like don't leave a salesman a low rating no matter what he does.

    Anyway, I'm all for anyone posting anything about car buying it's ok with me. It's just that salesmen don't really like informed consumers. I can't blame them, but that's the nature of the car business.

    I had a salesman once say "I can't understand why people are always bargaining. You don't go into a TV store and try to buy a TV lower than the price". "Well, how come you aren't selling TV"s?" I asked. End of discussion. :)
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited September 2013

    1104 below invoice, plus a additional 500 flex. Post dealership/ What City you purchased...

    Enjoy your new accord

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • I bought last night a 2014 Accord EXL-V6 for $28,394 before tax, title & tag. Once I picked out the car I decided on, I contacted 5 nearby dealers, explained that I was settled on this car, and simply would take my money where I would receive the best price. Didn't really haggle/bargain all that much.

    I am happy with the outcome, but then again, I don't buy cars every day (rarely, in fact ... I buy & drive them till the wheels come off, or they get totaled, such as the case with my last car). I originally was looking to buy a '13, but the price difference was only about $200, so it seemed like a no-brainer to me to go with the '14 that didn't sit on a lot and get driven by every interested buyer out there.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited September 2013
    We play the game set up by the Car Companies.

    When someone can play there game just as good if not better they Cry foul. When people like myself can beat there system they come in here and tell you what your doing is wrong and your misleading people.

    I have heard the same tired stories from all the salesman who passed thru these boards since 1996. Dealerships love the Un educated / clueless buyer.

    When you buy many cars over the years you understand the game. You learn how to play. We are just a small percentage in these forums who get better deals...................... than most un-educated buyers.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228

    Enjoy your new ride you will love the V-6 and its power.

    Post what state and the dealership you at purchased so other forum member can try to get a similar deal.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 974
    edited September 2013
    If it wasn't for this forum and its contributors, I would not have known about flex cash, dealer holdback, buying at the end of the month and contacting dealerships via email to get the best deal.

    I am a no nonsense guy, and as a consumer I am not going to give any sales person a hard time as long as I get treated right instead of them trying to play games with me. I have no patience for that crap. Maybe some car buyers enjoy the back and forth and all the stupid games some dealerships play, but I do not. Car buying is stressful enough without sales people.

    I walked out of 2 dealerships after filling out a credit application and ready to close the deal, when the sales person started playing games.

    I was lucky enough that there were lot of Honda dealerships in my area.

    At the end of the day, most of us here are on this forum to either help people buy cars or get some advice on how to get the best deal on a car. Not all tactics will work for everyone, but there is a ton of good advice that helped me land a great deal on a new Honda Accord a few weeks ago.

    Keep the advice coming, Brian.
    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • jlm072174jlm072174 Posts: 8
    edited September 2013
    The dealership is Stevenson Honda in Goldsboro, NC.

    Edmunds reports the invoice price for this model at $28,658 (not sure if that is the right invoice price or not). So, if that is accurate, I guess I got it for about $264 under invoice. And that also included the protection package (mud guards, all weather trunk tray and all weather floor mats). I didn't need navi and such ... I primarily wanted the power, leather and reliability.

    How accurate is that price from Edmunds? Is there a better place to find the true invoice price?

    I just noted that TrueCar reports the factory invoice price at $28,543, which would make it only $149 under invoice.

    I also failed to note this was for the sedan vs. the coupe.
  • accord2013EXL: Were there dealer options or perks included with this?

    Also, accord2013EXL and brian125

    On a 2014 EXL 4 cylinder my most recent quote is below. I am still taking quotes:

    $26,000 base
    7% tax
    699 dealer fee
    90 (ish) for tag transfer
    10 (battery etc. fees)
    Am I missing any fees?

    This includes Mud guards, wheel locks, rubber trunk mat, nitrogen in tires and I am verifying if door guards and floor mat are included (I think they are all a package). I also got him to agree to switch the tires for us to the Michelins if they come in with Goodyear or Firestone.

    I am planning to ask for $25,500 for the base price instead and I am going to ask for tinted windows.

    Do you think the deal I was offered is really good or not. What do you think of my counter-offer? Is $25,500 base good or do you know if they can do better?

    The best deal I have been offered (so far) on a 2013 was $27,881 OTD (7% sales tax). It included pin striping, tinted windows, car washes for life and $250 gas card (through credit union).
  • Agree. Amen. I appreciate everyone's advice and I agree it all depends on the circumstances.
  • I agree that extended warranties are a waste. Save your money and say no to the finance manager. That said, I feel differently about GAP insurance. The fact is that the car will depreciate and there are many factors in this.

    I had GAP on an Acura TL (holds it value well) for a few years. I did a check online for the value of the car and believed I no longer needed gap insurance (this was just a few months ago). I got hit by flying road debris off a truck that went under the car and shredded and totaled it. I have USAA insurance (you can argue they are the best) and I was shocked at what they took off the vehicle and the deductible was involved since the truck didn't stop). I lost on the car.

    GAP insurance should NEVER be $795. It should be around $300 a year through your insurance company. It is worth it until you are ABSOLUTELY sure you are not upside down and I would use worst case scenario when assessing the value of a car online.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228

    Edmunds is dead on accurate, along with sites like Kelly blue book {} Consumer reports. I have been using Edmunds for years now and found they are always right with pricing.

    Your invoice for the 2014 exl v-6 is 28,543 with $790 dest charge included in price. At 149 below invoice for a 2014 model was a very good deal.

    last year it took many months to get to invoice and below. Certain states were not budging off there price.. Hopefully here in NY/ New jersey we can get this kind of pricing soon.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • suydamsuydam Posts: 4,269
    Many auto insurance policies include gap in their coverage so it might be completely unnecessary.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • Thanks Brian! That makes me feel a lot better about my purchase! :)

    I don't know if all Honda dealers do this, but they did (without asking) throw in the first full tank of fuel! Hey, with even regular gas prices (here) around $3.45/gal, that's another $60 saved. These days, gotta count every penny & dollar where you can!
  • That $795 charge by the dealer is high and can probably be negotiated down, but I believe dealers charge a one-time fee so I think you are the one who is overpaying.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Well, if you're going to quote me, please be accurate.

    I don't think I've "whined" about anything or said low margins make salesmen "stupid" (?)

    And I don't think I've suggested giving salespeople ratings they haven't earned. I have simply tried to explain how their tainted system is set up.

    All I have tried to do is interject some reality as to how things work.

    Lastly, I'm happy that you are "all for" anyone posting anything about car buying. I am happy to have your approval!
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited September 2013
    2014 exl sedan accord is 25,860 plus dest/ 790= 26,650.

    If i'm reading your post correctly with all the added accessories puts you at 650 below invoice. And at invoice price after you pay dealer his 699 admim fee.

    I think a offer of 25,500 is not fesable on the 2014 especially with all the added accessories in that car.

    If you like the added options in the 2014 and think you could get dealer to split admin cost with you... That would be a knock out deal on your part. At worst case buying at invoice is a very good deal right now. Keep on negotiating until your ready to make the deal. If your in no rush to buy wait til the last 2 days last day of this month. This month ends the 3rd quarter for Car Companies. Good deals always happen at the end of the month and at quarters end.

    Best not to complicate any deals with getting Tinted windows. Secure your target price then get your windows tinted by a professional installer. i had my front/ rear windows done for 100 dollars here in NY

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Hi all,
    I was offered this deal through the internet department and I think I am close to making a decision. I am ideally hoping for something ~500 less but hopefully can close the deal at least at $23k OTD.

    msrp w. dest $24,180.00
    invoice w. dest $22,199.00
    sales price $21,624.96
    tax $1,351.56
    title, license, inspect $126.00
    Doc Fee $125.00
    Inventory tax $45.48
    Total OTD $23,273.00

    Thoughts/Comments are welcome.">
  • I mis-spoke about my GAP insurance. My insurance company USAA (if you finance through them charges $259) that can be paid up front or divided into the payment). They do total loss reimbursement for GAP and they also pay up to $1,000 of the deductible.

    My credit union is about the same price and works the same.
  • Brian125,

    Yes, you understood my numbers correctly for the 2014 EXL 4 cylinder! Ok. I will scratch the tinted window idea but I am going to try and knock off the $500 since I am paying the dealer fee. It is hard for me to pay even near invoice! I am used to buying $1400 or more below invoice.

    I am working with USAA to fight for a better deal on the 2013 and 2014. We prefer the 2014 since our son with drive in 6 years. I am not getting what their website claims which has frustrated me.

    Do you think $27,881 OTD (7% sales tax and all fees included) is really good on a 2013? This dealer offered tinted windows, pin-striping and car washes for life. I am clarifying whether other dealer options are included but I don't think so. On a side note..with this deal my credit union gives me a $250 gas card too. This is the most aggressive quote I have on a 2013 so far.

    THANKS for all of your advice. Is has really helped me feel reassured. Last, we can wait until the end of the month if we need to. It isn't ideal since we are functioning on one car since August 12th. Our Acura was totaled but waiting can be done!!!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Glad to see you set the record straight Isell. It was all I could do to bite my tongue and not reply to zigsters incoherent post but I know you can speak for yourself so I held off. I am coming to the realization that some of these folks are beyond reasoning with and are set in their beliefs and will not change their attitude no matter how much rational information they are presented with. It explains a lot why there is so much frustration and anguish exuding from posters who can't understand why they followed advice to the T, demanded their target price, but no one is accepting it. What's that old saying? You catch more bees with honey than with vinegar. Oh well - there's plenty of vinegar to go around here.
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • Brian125,

    I sent you another message a few minutes ago but just got more info from the dealer. The store manager (this is who I am negotiating with online..)confirmed the mats and door guards are included in the price I reference for the 2014. Good news.

    Thanks to this forum I learned about the flex cash when financing through Honda. I am not sure how to proceed with wanting to ask for the $500 of the price for base price to be $25,500 (used to offset dealer fee of $699). Should I ask for this first and then go for the financing later and get another $500 or is it one or the other. I don't want to screw myself over by hoping for the flex cash and then not getting the rate I want through Honda. I have a great rate with my credit union.

    When they say Flex cash is there more than one way to use it? I can't find much info on it.

  • Sorry for the delayed reply, was swamped up setting up my insurance and other stuffs.

    No, i didn't actually ask for anything.
  • Moe, Sorry for the delayed response.

    The price where you are with 14 EXL is a very good deal as far as I know. I am not sure you can get the base price down to 25,500. If you can do that it's a great deal at this time of the year.

    I would suggest go with 14, the 13's quote of 27,881 OTD is not good price at all.

    Also you talked about flex cash in another post, i think it's only applicable for 13 model, not for 14. One of the dealer offered me the flex cash this Monday
    for the 13 elx. So do some research before going to the dealer.
  • Finally i got my beast yesterday evening. This forum was very helpful in many ways understanding the car buying techniques. Thanks to very one!

    I couldn't believe i ended up buying 2014 instead of 2013. I was shopping for 13 from the Aug 2nd week, i got very close to my target price once but offered very high finance rate. Went to DCU to get approved decent rate at 5.9.

    At the end of august (31st Aug) booked a 13 and deposited 500$ (not signed the contract) and supposed to contact dcu the following week to get some information the dealer was asking for. But the next day the dealer called in and said I need to pay $900 more for the car than what we have agreed for as there was my previous price was a mistake. I told him that i am not going to buy the car from you and just return my deposit.

    Then I had narrowed down couple of dealers from the help of blue and cars12345 to work on my 13 deal. One was very close to my target price and the other didn't have my color but offered me the 14 model with best price he could do (at invoice price) but i have to wait for the end of month to get it. This happened on this past Monday afternoon. I thought that he is playing game just i couldn't believe the 2014 can be at invoice price as it's just launching.

    Then I went on to do the inventory check of all the dealers and selected bunch of them and took my friend's help to call/email each one of them to find out their best offer and we also made our offer after their best price. Except one others were just around invoice price. That dealer is $250 above our target price and I felt this deal would workout. I called him but he couldn't go any lower than that he wants me to come that evening to make the deal as he had only one car of my color in stock. He had only 4 of that type in different colors.

    I went to the dealer they honored me the what they have told me over the phone. The sales person wanted to pull my credit history and see if they can offer me a better rate than DCU, i insisted him I don't want to do this because many dealers were tried and either I need a co-signer or pay very high interest rate above 10. But he insisted they have very good finance manager, we can give it a try if you get a better rate you take it or go with what you have already approved and no harm in trying.

    He gone with my credit application and came back and said you better go with dcu others will be high. I nodded my head and said i expected this. Then I was waiting to meet the finance manager for my contract to be signed. After a while he comes again and said "I got a good news for you, our finance manager thinks he can get you 2.9 at DCU for your points" I was like not again friend but said okay lets try.

    Then went to the finance manager room and he was confident of getting me the 2.5% for my score. He called the the DCU but it's already outside their working hours and asked me to wait one more day as he is taking leave next day to finalize the rate. He even prepared the contract with 2.5% and made me sign it and given the copy to me. In between we were working on the warranty and GAP insurance I ended up buying the GAP at 795 (which he said 100% refundable if i cancel it before 60 days in case if don't like it) but denied the warranty.

    Here comes Wednesday, went to the dealer, the finance manager along with me called up the DCU representative and they wanted to pull the credit one more time as he thinks mine would be eligible for better rate and minutes later we found out I am now eligible for 1.9%. In this one month my credit score increased by few points and thus i moved up one tier that made this possible. It was big surprise for me and we both and the sale person celebrated. I thanked them for insisting me to do the credit check even though i am not ready to do at the start.

    All went well, except the GAP insurance, i'll be doing some analysis then decide on that.

    Thanks all for the help in the forum and also for the sales person and the finance manager.
  • MichaellMichaell ColoradoPosts: 137,185
    Congratulations on your new Accord! Seems like your dealer went a little above and beyond to get you a great interest rate.

    Please take a moment and review your dealer and transaction here:

    Customer Reviews

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!


    2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4

  • Sorry I post this to a wrong forum earlier.

    I am looking for a 2013 Honda 4 door EX sedan with no add on. I live in the NYC area. I see many post here saying you can get a price for $2k less than dealer invoice. Is this realistics? I have been through many calls and email thru the local dealers and the lowest i have so far is $23,500 not including $790 destination tax and DMV doc fees. The dealer invoice for this model is $24,036. I am flexible in color.

    Any suggestions how can I get a better deal? Wait till the end of this month ... etc? And what is the target price I should have for this model? I have no trade in or financing.

    I think the 2014 and 2013 models are the same so I am ok with the 2013 model if this can save me $.
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    So exactly how much before TTL did you end up paying for the 2014 EX-L? This helps those of us trying to put together a deal. Thanks.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    keep on negotiating tell the end of the month. There is alot of room left on your current deal. If you have no other dealers with your model you may be at the dealers mercy and may have to take what ever bump up he gives you at months end.

    good luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • I'm so excited to get a spot mention!

    Did this all happen at Prime? If so I'm going in tomorrow to get my inspection sticker and cancel my extended warranty and will be sure to mention I had a hand in your purchase. Not like it will get me anything....

    Congrats on all your good news!

    You can always cancel the GAP insurance when you pick up the car at the end of the month.
  • A full tank of gas comes with the Honda purchase. It's actually on the window sticker of your car (if you kept it).

    Don't let the dealership take credit for something they are obligated to do.

    Congrats on your purchase.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    edited September 2013

    Looks like you made it to the big leagues..

    Congrats on your spot mention........................ Well deserved

    Why dont you take a crack at big daddys post he needs some help.

    i will chime in after your comments..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • I don't see any mention of full tank of gas on the sticker price??
  • I am looking to purchase a 2013 Accord EX L without Nav. One dealer has quoted 25,900 plus dealer fee and tax. Dealer fee is 699 and taxes will be in the neighborhood of 1400, I live in a city with four Honda dealers. Should I be talking to all of them? Also, when visiting one dealer the car I was interested in had a few dealer added accessories that I really don't care about but would expect those to be included their lowest quote. Any help would be appreciated.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,228
    Negotiate with all 4 dealerships making your best deal the last2 days last day of this month. Supply and demand and your limited dealerships will affect your pricing. If there is only one model and color you like start your negotiations sooner maybe buying sooner so you dont loose out

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    $25900 for a 2013 EX-L is too much. A few weeks ago, folks on here and other places were reporting getting them for $25000. For the price they are asking, they should be handing you a 2014 EX-L.
  • That's Mademoiselle Cars to you.

    I like to think of myself as an EX-L specialist...but I'll give it a try.
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