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Still am shocked the Honda is not sending us a letter on this. Such an easy fix for something that could cost hundreds of dollars to fix.
I'm a bit concerned that my rear differential is somewhat worn out from me going so long with this condition.
I'll ask my service dept. about it. Hopefully they won't need to hear it, because it sounds like by the time I drive there the heat will have nullified the problem.
Luckily, I could bring my new-car-purchase survey and suggest that I'll fill it out while I wait for them to "fix" the clips. ;-)
It's not too bad once I know that the car isn't going to crack in half. Knowledge is comfort, sometimes.
When they took the car into the shop, the mechanics addressed the problem by adjusting the tension on the belt, or replacing the belt tensioner.
Of course, I cannot be certain that the belt tension is the problem. However, you've described a known problem using almost exactly the same words as were used by others in the past.
I am trying to decide whether to purchase an extended warranty (from CarMax, $1700 to take me an additional 6 years/60K miles).
I've always bought warranties in the past, but keep hearing that Hondas are so mechanically reliable that to do so will be a waste of money.
On the other hand, the only reason I traded from my 95 Volvo was to avoid the constant money on repairs I was getting into....
I know this is a typical "to insure or not to insure" question but if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.
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After just reading an article about my CR-V catching fire after an oil change, I thought I would find a forum to ask some questions. The article said that there had been reports of fires in the engine compartment due to sloppy oil changes or if the gasket wasn't removed properly. The oil would fall onto the exhaust pipe and flame up. I have 47,000 mi. on my '02 Honda. I have had Honda and Valvoline change my oil. Thus far no fires.
The article mentioned the problem occurring on 2003 and 2004 CR-Vs. I called my dealer and asked them about this report, which they were aware of, and why my '02 wasn't involved. They told me that the oil filter location changed after 2002. Is this true? Why would they change the engine layout after 2002? I'm not really complaining here but the answer didn't sound right. Is it physically impossible for my '02 to catch fire due to an improper oil change?
Thank you
That's the question no one can answer as there were no design changes from 02 to 03 or 04. You're dealer is full of it. The mystery has to do with the first oil change. I'd say your better than most, but logic also tells me you're at risk simply due to the location of the oil filter. I wouldn't ret it though.
I, too, have a 2002 CR-V and have also been wondering why the situation does not include the 2002.
We did have a serious oil leak episode immediately following an oil change at a local Honda dealership, but thankfully no fire. The genuinely concerned and rather puzzled technician replaced the filter with yet a second one, cleaned-up the oil covered undercarriage and the problem seemed to be solved. No "second gasket" was involved, as I looked at the suspected filter myself.
I also find it hard to believe that the location of the oil filter was changed after 2002 when that year was the first of a complete redesign of the vehicle.
These concerns have been E-mailed to the authors of the article indicated above and hopefully some of them will be answered. Stay tuned.
Third party warranty companies are a real crap shoot.. Until a solid insurance company like State Farm or Prudential starts selling it, I wouldn't take a chance.
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That said, I'd suggest that you mention the belt tensioner if you haven't already. I won't hurt to have them check it out.
This certainly sounds like a design flaw and a ticking time bomb!
I'm curious, what has Honda USA said about this? Now I have to confront my dealer and get their full & honest explanation.
Well, I think they may have gone to a different model of filter. Maybe that is what they meant.
No, I'm pretty sure that the service rep explained quite clearly that the location was different than the 2003-2004 models.
I doubt that the engineers decreed 26 PSI; it was probably the marketing people, who wanted the softer ride.
I plan to monitor my treadwear for wear patterns and rotate religiously at 6K. If I was going to run 30-35 psi I would monitor treadwear every 2-3K miles.
How do you monitor treadwear of your tires?
BTW, I keep my tires (of my CR-V EX 03) at 34psi and do 5-tire rotation every 5K (usually at the same time as I do my oil/filter change).
I do mostly highway travel.
Don't know about the 2005, but my 2003 said to use 35PSI at 100 miles per hour. I use 35 on all tires, since the freeways generally run at 75, and I like safety margins.
Well, I'll keep it in mind, but I actually wouldn't mind the stock Dueller tires wearing out...
I live in the South. Traction issues aren't a major concern. (No snow, and no-one goes out when there's an ice storm.)
Consumer Reports for Oct. or Nov. had a review of SUV tires and ranked the Duelers as low in road resistance (which would make the tire good for slightly higher MPG).
Any comments welcome.
Interestingly, just two days ago, a complaint was filed with the NHTSA concerning this very issue:
ID #10100169
Summary: Front tire blowout at 65 MPH on highway. 21000 miles on 2004 Honda CRV. Bridgestone, Dueller, 205/70R15 tires.
Having said that, when the Duellers wear out on our 2003 EX CRV (11,000 miles)I know I will replace them with some that are QUIETER and give better wet weather performance. I'm in Seattle where it RAINS.
All in all, they aren't "bad" tires by any means.
Based on these discussions, some months ago I wrote done the following as possible tire replacements:
Yokohama Aegis LS4
Yokohama Avid Touring
I have no personal knowledge of these tires, but a number of forum participants switched to them and seemed to think they were a big improvement.
I believe it was working when I bought the car. 2002 Honda CRV.
Is this a fuse problem?
I am always stunned when I walk through parking lots at the number of cars whose tires are VISIBLY underinflated (because radials won't LOOK underinflated until they are beyond being dangerously low), obviously not been rotated on schedule, show clear indications of poor alignment, and have no tread left. The owners of these cars will probably be stunned when their tires blow out on the highway or when they spin out in bad weather. But you know what? Tires are much quieter when they have no tread left. So the fact that you can HEAR your Duelers could be considered a good thing. The more you THINK about and pay proper attention to your tires the longer and safer you will live.
I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if the person making that blow-out report had missed the 3 scheduled tire rotations they should have had by 22K miles and if they could tell you what their tire pressure was before the blow out. I can tell you my tire pressure at any time because I check it regularly and rotate my tires every 7500 miles, as recommended.
Auto manufacturers can't please all the people all the time and they choose OEM tires based on a compromise of safety, longevity, tread, road noise, handling, mileage, etc. Not everyone is going to be pleased with the compromise - so replace your tires if you're not. If they put touring tires on their so they'd be nice and quiet and handle well, someone would be bitching that they don't handle well in the snow. Go figure.
Elissa
I was at the dealer getting my 57.5K miles oil change the other night when they mentioned that I would need to get new tires pretty soon. While waiting, I checked out the 05 CRV. I noticed quite a few changes...a redesigned headlight, and bigger wheels(16.5" Alloy). Also, @ my 55K service, my brakes were 50% worn.
QUESTIONS:
1. Since i'm due for tire replacement soon, I was wondering:
a) Is it possible to upgrade to the new 16.5" wheels? Does any other vehicle specification need to be changed to accommodate the bigger wheels?
b) Is it feasable to do so? Any idea of what the cost of this upgrade would be? Considering my V is already 3yrs old, it is worth doing this?
2. If the above is not possible, feasable or worth doing, I will simply replace the existing tires. Any idea of what a good replacement all season tire would be? Feel free to recommend any tire that offers better performance, smoother ride, and are much more quieter than the original(OEM).
3. Should I replace the brakes at the same time as the tires too? I figure, if I replace the brakes, replace the tires, and get a wheel balancing/alignment done, then my alignment wouldn't have to be 'disturbed' for quite sometime thereafter. Or does it matter? Does one have anything to do with the other as far as alignment goes?
4. On a separate note, my V makes a "clunking" sound over rough bumpy roads. The "clunk" appears to come from the right front wheel area. It exist from the 1st day I bought the V. No dealer can figure it out, because for the most part, they can't duplicate it. Also, it occurs more often during the 1st 5 minutes of vehicle operation, and on cold days. Has anyone experienced this? Is so, what did you do to correct this?
Sorry for being long winded. Your responses will be very much appreciated.
Thank You,
Moe
I personally thought they handled terribly in the rain....I felt unsafe trying to drive the 70 MPH speed limit on the interstate in moderate rainfall when the tires were brand new. To me this was unacceptable.
Yes, it is possible. You might through off the speedo by a little bit, but I believe it is within the acceptable 3% variation.
"Is it feasable to do so? Any idea of what the cost of this upgrade would be?"
Depends on where you get the tires and rims. 5 rims and 5 new tires will probably run you about $1,000. (You must change the spare if you decide to do this.)
IMHO, you might be better off keeping your car another 2 years, then buy a used 2005 model. You'll get all the safety gear and upgrades along with the new rims.
"On a separate note, my V makes a "clunking" sound over rough bumpy roads."
This is going to seem odd, but I seem to recall something about an issue with engine mounts causing a thunk over rough roads. Have your mechanic check that out next time you're in the shop.
Remember.. your dealer won't pay for it, but Honda might.. If you can get your dealer to help you with Honda, that will make it easier.. Just don't expect your dealer to pay for it.
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Hmmm, I thought the engine and transmission had a 50K warranty? In any case, ask them. The fixed a broken headlight for my wife when the car was one month out of warranty.
Question #1 is has anyone accumulated enough miles (~30K) on the 2004 model to see if the early fluid break still occurs or maybe they changed something for the 04 model?
Question or Point #2 is that after looking at it this weekend, it appears that Honda did change the drain and fill holes on the 04 model from the 17mm bolts previously used in earlier models to a 1/4" square drive type. My 1/4" ratchet fits perfectly.
I have 25K miles and am just preparing for changing the fluid myself once the squealing symptom starts.