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Pony up at tirerack.com and get yourself some new shoes! The service manager has a lot better things to do than worry about those crappy tires.
TB
I lost my 2000 CRV to a garage fire and I purchased a 2006 CRV back in December. 2 issues:
1) I still continue to hear brake growling even though the car is 6 months old. I am going in for a servicing and will check it out. I call it growling because my first Honda (1989 Accord) also had this brake noise and I was told that it was characteristic of these cars.
2) I bet this never happened to any of you. I was getting the car washed and prior to the washing I decided to put the alarm in valet mode. On my car you turn the ignition key and then press the red valet light. I guess I don't know my own strength these days because when I went to press the valet light it went right into the dashboard and I cannot get it out. I will address this at servicing as well. Otherwise the car is mechanically sound and dependable as usual. Thanx to all
I just posted a similar message today. I think they call it Brake growling. I have that noise with my car and will check it out next week at the servicing. I would not be too concerned. As stated in my message this just may be characteristic of these cars. Have a nice weekend.
Thanks.
TB
And speaking of tires, I've always wondered how come my 05 SE (bought new with 6 miles) came with BF Goodrich Traction T/As, not with the Bridgestone Duelers which are considered standard for the CRV and everybody hates them.
http://www.micronair.us/Honda/56
Good luck...
Jack
That link will describe the problem for you.
This is not a case where something has been broken. It is simply a fluid that wears out with use. You need to change the oil in your vehicle on a regular basis and you need to change the rear diff fluid regularly. It's maintenance.
I wouldn't expect the cost to run anymore than $30-50. Things get way more expensive if you try to ignore the noise. Have it done every 40K miles, or so.
Happy? You bet! I'll replace them with something QUIETER!
Any suggestions?
I ended up with the BFGoodrich Touring T/A that were the stock tire on the 1st generation CR-V... Mostly because he had them in stock, and I knew what I was getting.. About 35K on them now... From previous experience, I'll probably get about 50K.. just an average tire...(cheap).
The general consensus that I've seen from other members that have CR-Vs?
Budget price: Yokohama Avid (T4?).
Premium price: Goodyear Assurance TripleTred
If a good ride, and quiet tires are important, I'd pony up for the Goodyears... I've not read a single complaint on this specific tire.
regards,
kyfdx
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Lockout solenoid. Only automatics have them. Manuals don't. No noise in the manual version. :P
Do you drive on slick surfaces frequently?
Have you swapped out any of the tires on your vehicle?
I'll monitor the issue and maybe take it to the dealer and see what they say. My other issue is the driver seat back heater - from what the manual says there should be one, I also saw it mentioned on a couple of occasions under Service Bulletins on the NHTSA web site. I remember this was discussed on this thread last year, but nothing was confirmed.
Does anyone have any tips on how i can go about finding a shop that would maybe have a Throttle Position Sensor available by itself.
Thanks, Steve
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Thanks,
Frank
Pelkster
I have a bit of a problem with my 1997 CR-V. It has a fuel leak where the line comes out from the tank. specifically the junction of the two lines. Is there an emergency shut off valve?
Hope this helps.
Good job working it out with the dealer. It pays to be persistent.
Thanks.
BTW, the car now has 2,000 miles on it, so I'm sure I've passed the break in period.
since i bought the car in october, the radio has resetted the pre-set stations about 4 - 5 times. anyone have a clue?
Call the Honda corporate customer service line and explain the situation. The number is on the back of your OWNER's MANUAL.
For the past 2 years, I have noticed a pinging noise, similar to low octane ping. I have mentioned this every time I bring my car is for its regular service. Mechanic never is able to detect the noise. Twice during the regular scheduled service, valves were adjusted; each time was told nothing unusual was detected.
Noise occurs only when the car sits for more then an hour or so. Noise occurs when you first shift into second, and third gears as you apply gas. This happens for the first mile or so of city driving.
Today I had my 45K service done, all looked good. This time I asked the mechanic to go for a drive with me. Noise was detected.
Mechanic made an observation regarding my shifting timing. I’m shifting gears at around 1500 RPM, mechanic says I should do it around 3000 RPM. He said this could be the cause of the pinging. He also said I would improve gas mileage by doing this.
Tonight after work, I followed his advice, but is was hard to tell, since now the revving it up to 3000 RPM each time I shift drowns the pinging.
Any of this makes sense?
Thanks for any advice.
So after you shift your RPM's drop to bellow 1000? Sounds like a logical explanation for a noise that laboring engine would make.
Start winding that baby out, and you won't believe how much more fun you'll have...
Seriously, I agree with the others... you've been lugging the engine.. Your RPMs should be above 1500 (preferably 2K), after you shift.. I think your mechanic has this pegged.. You'll be doing yourself and your car a favor, if you can change your shifting habits..
regards,
kyfdx
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They did the thing where they loosened a mount... shifted the engine slightly, then torqued it back down... That worked for about a month...
Sadly, I just ignore it, now...
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