Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

smilecry · August 2003

I am considering to get a set a new 2003 CRV alloy wheels and change my LX's steel wheels. Will this void my warranty? Thanks!

robmarch · August 2003

upgrading the LX's steel wheels to the EX's alloy wheels should not void the warranty. You can contact Honda if you want confirmation, but since the wheel is available on another trim level, it's in the clear.

even if you went with an aftermarket rim, the most they could do is deny warranty coverage to something like a wheel bearing, etc., if they could prove that the aftermarket rim caused the part to fail.

rjpreuss · August 2003

Does anyones CRV shake a bit when accelerating under load? I have a 1999 EX model and the car seems to struggle to get past first gear so the acceleration is a bit rough. A tune-up does not solve this problem. The dealer said that this shake is a characteristic of the auto transmission and that it is completely normal. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

auburn63 · August 2003

If the shake is a bit like a misfire feeling then it just may be a valve problem starting to show. We have seen a few of 99s with like 80,000 and up coming in with a miss like a bad plug or wire and finding through a cylynder leak down test(not a compression) 30%-60% leakage which turns out to be burnt valves or bad valve seats..Hopefully not your case but if it gets worse the info is here to move forward with the diag...Good luck

da3rdtam · August 2003

I am thinking about purchasing a 2003 CRV. I have talked to a couple CRV owners about how their likes and dislike about their vehicles. All of the thoughts about the CRV were positive except for one issue. They both told me about one problem they had, and that was turning a corner while driving in snow. They said the rear end of the CRV had a tendency to spin out of control. I was wondering If anyone else has this problem or have heard of this problem. I would appreciate any comments before I purchase this vehicle.

kyfdx · August 2003

If anything, I notice a propensity for the CRV to plow (understeer) going around corners in the snow. You have to remember that the Honda system is strictly for propulsion traction, and really does nothing to enhance the handling of the vehicle. I would compare it to driving a front-wheel drive car in the snow, and someone giving you a bump in the rear every time your wheels start to slip.. Not to that extreme of course, but thats the idea. It definitely doesn't handle as well as an Audi or a Subaru in the white stuff, but it will keep you from getting stuck.
They may be experiencing oversteer because of excessive speed. Sometimes increased straight ahead traction may cause people to be overconfident in the abilities of the vehicle they are driving.
regards,
kyfdx

echiang62 · September 2003

I recently purchased a 2003 Honda CR-V EX. It currently has 2200 miles on it. I've noticed that I've had to add a total of approximately 1/2 quart of oil to the engine during this time. I know that isn't a lot of oil, but in the other 2 Hondas that I've owned I've never had to put in a drop of oil. Is this normal for a new engine that used 5w-20 oil? Thanks for your help in advance.

auburn63 · September 2003

Yes, Honda actually says that 1 quart every 1,000 miles is normal.

robmarch · September 2003

I have had no problem with oversteer in the CRV in the snow, but I'm careful not to really step on the throttle on the slippery stuff. The car does understeer in the snow, but if you are already understeer slipping through a corner and try to correct with more throttle, you could probably kick the tail out with proper (or improper

) weight transfer.

If you're light on the throttle on snow, and keep your speeds in snow covered corners reasonable, so that you aren't drifting around them, I don't think there's anything to be afraid of.

If you are the type that likes to "stomp and steer" in snow, and count on the AWD to save you, you might want to look at a vehicle that is full time AWD, as they would react more predictably in these cases.

As kyfdx says, this sytem is primarily to get traction up a slippery hill, or to start out, not to influence handling when the car is already travelling 20-30 mph. Sure, you can get it to engage then, and sure it helps. But, I still drive slowly in snow.

echiang62 · September 2003

Is the figure stated about 1 quart of oil consumption every 1000 miles really normal or is that just whar Honda states so they don't have to deal with problems like that? If this figure is correct and a car truly consumes 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles then there would be no reason to get an oil change every 5000 miles? Is this correct logic or is my thinking in error?

kyfdx · September 2003

They all state 1 qt every 1000 miles is normal. But, I think that would be at the far end of the range. Cycling 5 new quarts through your engine doesn't mean all of the original 5 quarts is gone, if you have been adding one every 1000 miles, not to mention the dirty filter.. Now, if you don't add until all five quarts are out, you won't have to worry about oil changes!!

kyfdx

jfaircloth · September 2003

We have a 2000 CR-V LX (4WD); we separately purchased the remotes for the keyless entry system and programmed them ourselves. Piece of cake; they've worked perfectly for several months now. A few days ago, we bought a new Accord EX; the key has the remote built into it. Is it possible for that remote to be interfering with the CR-V's remote? I ask because ever since we put the Accord key on our keychain, the CR-V will occasionally go into "panic" mode (horn blaring) when we take the key out of the CR-V's ignition. Any ideas???

kittygirl · September 2003

I have almost 5000 miles on my CR-V and it hasn't lost a drop of oil. I watch it closely because I just went through this with my 2000 Volkswagon Beetle that I traded in for this car. Anyway, they say 1 quart every 1000 miles is normal, but Volkswagon did an oil consumption test and discovered that I was consuming just a bit more than that and I qualified for a ring job under warranty. If it is driving you crazy adding oil every fill up, you might ask if Honda does an oil consumption test. They basically fill your oil to the rim and have you come back in 1000 miles to see how much you have lost. I gotta say, I'm loving not having to constantly buy oil. Keep us posted.

auburn63 · September 2003

Well that is Honda say on the oil use but I do believe that it is excessive. But as for you I dont think the .5 in 2k was bad at all.

bamahonda · September 2003

I have a 2002 CRV and am having problems with the gages all at once(speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temp, etc). Periodically they cease to function and just vibrate. Feels like a short in the wiring or something. The local honda dealer has been unable to find the problem. Anybody had similar problems?

gringo1 · September 2003

Hi,
What are some recommended tire alternatives to the stock issue tires?
Brand, sizes, tire model, etc.
Thanks.

varmint · September 2003

What's most important to you, road handling, snow performance, rain performance, long wear, price?

robmarch · September 2003

I went with the Yokohama Avid T4 in the stock size. I think they're a definite upgrade in wet and dry traction, tread wear, looks, braking, and overall handling. and they're dirt cheap at tirerack

Other sizes are available too, if you want to go a little taller for highway mileage, etc.

I'll let you know on snow, but they look like they would be an improvement there too, looking at the tread blocks. The last tires were decent in the snow, but not exceptional, so I'm not expecting these to be any worse.

I only have about 1k miles on them, but so far, I'd definitely recommend them, as would most of the reviewers on Tire Rack's site.

icvci · September 2003

I changed the oil in our CR-V just before our 3814 mile trip. If a vehicle was ever going to lose oil I'd think it would be going up a mountain at 60+ mph. However, I checked it last night and, it didn't lose a drop. I'm still right at the little hole in the dipstick.

robmarch · September 2003

I thought startup was the worst for burning small amounts of oil, until the metals expanded, but I could be wrong.

icvci · September 2003

Well, I never gave it much thought but, that makes sense. I just figured the high RPM and larger load put on the engine while climbing would somehow, possibly use up oil.

icvci · September 2003

I found gas prices to be quite irratic. Here in Michigan, a gallon of regular 87 no lead (no ethanol) runs about $1.70. In Colorado, 85 is regular (WITH ethanol) and it ran about $1.78. If you wanted 87 (WITH ethanol) it was $1.88. Seems like the oil companies just make up prices. I figured higher octane cost more due to more refining or additives.

The cheapest gas on our trip was in Missouri about 30 miles west of St. Louis 87 no ethanol @ $1.64.

robmarch · September 2003

I could see that being the case if the seals were already leaking, where the additional load might be too much for the weaker seals.

Sounds like yours are in good shape, regardless

rerenov8r · September 2003

You cannot compare prices at the pump w/o knowing the TAX imposed at the pump.

My guess is that the octane is way, way down the list of factors that affect pump price.

Numero uno is TAXES, then MARKETING, then "formulation" (where the additives and/or seasonal blend is either widely available & cheap or is short supply), then perceived 'commodity cost' (i.e. the raw Crude Price does get reflected at the pump, but mostly with a leading rise and a lagging fall...) and THEN the actual octane rating. And NO, I do not beleive that 93 octane cost anywhere NEAR 20 cents a gallon more than 87 octane...

http://www.taxadmin.org/fta/rate/motor_fl.html

theracoon · September 2003

You forgot greed.

Two months ago the price for 87 octange here in Indianapolis was as low as $1.35/gallon. By the end of July prices had jumped to $1.65 at some stations, while the lowest was still $1.40. Two weeks ago the cheapest price I could find was $1.60. This morning I saw $1.45 again.

kentkmok · September 2003

I got gas yesterday and the price was:
Octane 87 -- $2.15, Octane 89 -- 2.25.
I haven't seen ANYTHING lower than $2 for more than a month here in SoCal. Now how's that?

icvci · September 2003

My in-laws live in Redwood City, CA. My father-in-law was commenting on the crazy prices of gas there.

I wonder how Gray's bill to allow illegals to legally get drivers licenses will affect your insurance.

rjpreuss · September 2003

Just wondering what most people set their tire pressure to. Honda says 26 psi, but I find that the handling is very sluggish. Dealer says that the maximum you can add is 1 or 2 psi because of safety reasons, i.e. car might become unstable in some situations. Tire dealers in my area say 32, but the ride might be a bit harshbut wouldnt 32 be considered over inflating the tires?

rjpreuss · September 2003

Where I live in Canada, we are also paying about $2.15 for 87 octane right now. The price has been above $2 since the beginning of the year.

stevedebi · September 2003

The Duelers can be inflated to 44PSI (it is listed on the side walls). The owners manual says to set them to 35 PSI if you will be crusing at 100 MPH. Makes me wonder about the ideal range for 75-80 MPH.

I run mine at about 33PSI. My CR-V rides a bit harsher, but I haven't noticed any handling problems.

It is interesting, but UNDERINFLATION contributed the tire failures on the Ford Explorers a couple of years ago. They were being set to 24 PSI, but then the Explorer is a larger and heavier vehicle.

robmarch · September 2003

a good compromise between handling and mileage and comfort.

underinflation is the big problem with most cars.

fotoz · September 2003

MY 99 CRV EX, AUTO HAS 92000KMS. Since June its been into the dealer 15 times. Every time we use the a/c the next time the vehicle is started the engine light comes on. The car chugs and the rpm gauge goes very low or very high. The dealer cannot reproduce/diagnos the problem, so we just aren't using the air. Our warranty is up in 8000kms and i'm worried that its something major. HELP!! any ideas? Thanks for reading

kentkmok · September 2003

Is extended warranty an option for you? I think you can buy it anytime before your basic warranty expires, at least in the US.

stevedebi · September 2003

You can buy the extended warranty up to 42 months after purchase, here in the US.

If your engine light comes on, surely you can show the dealer the light? If you bring your car in for warranty service before the warranty expires, and the dealer cannot fix it but acknowledges the problem, I think you have a good legal case that the dealer must ensure it is fixed, even if the problem continues past the official warranty period.

varmint · September 2003

As long as you have documentation regarding the issue (within the warranty period), you should be covered.

15 trips to the dealer in 3 months is something like once every three days. If this problem as consistent as you report (happens every time the A/C is used), then I would recommend finding another place to service the vehicle.

Good luck.

danpf1 · September 2003

I have a 1998 CR-V EX with automatic trans. Does any know if you can use synthetic trans. oil in the automatic transmission of a CR-V, and can you use it in the differential?

theracoon · September 2003

can you use it in the differential?

The rear differential uses a special fluid Honda calls dual pump fluid. It is not automatic transmission fluid and can not be replaced by automatic transmission fluid.

Since my '99 EX is a 5 speed I don't know anything about the automatic transmission, but I'm sure someone else will answer your question.

danpf1 · September 2003

Royal purple also makes synthetic oil for the rear and front differential, called Max-Gear, but I'm not sure if it can be used in the CR-V. If anyone out there has used royal purple or any other synthetic gear oil in the CR-V differential, I would like to hear about it.

theracoon · September 2003

Royal purple also makes synthetic oil for the rear and front differential, called Max-Gear, but I'm not sure if it can be used in the CR-V.

I took a look at the Max-Gear web page. I don't think it will work with the CR-V, since the rear differential isn't a simple differential like most vehicles with rear drive or 4WD. The RT4WD rear differential is a complex hydraulic mechanism.

In very simplistic terms, within the rear differential there's one hydraulic pump attached to the front axle and one hydraulic pump attached to the rear axle (hence, Honda's "dual pump" terminology). As long as both axles are turning at the same speed the hydraulic pressure is the same from each pump. Once the axles turn at different speeds, indicating slipping of at least one wheel, the difference in pressure output of the pumps causes a clutch system within the rear differential to engage, transfering power the rear wheels. So the fluid in the rear differential isn't gear oil like you find in a normal differential, but is something closer to hydraulic fluid. The Honda website notes that the "Real Time 4-Wheel Drive is a hydraulically actuated system..."

varmint · September 2003

Theracoon is correct. Max-gear looks like a lubricant, not a hydraulic pump fluid. It's not like the Honda stuff is overly expensive, so I'd stick with it.

danpf1 · September 2003

Thanks to everyone that responded to my inquire about Royal Purple Products for the CR-V Transmission and differential. I think that I will try the royal purple trans. oil and stick with the Honda stuff for now, until I can find more information about the differential fluid. I use Royal Purple in my Motor Home. It's on a ford F-53 chassis with a 460 motor and E4OD trans, I use royal purple in the trans.,engine and differential. I found improved heat reduction and better gas mileage. I was hoping for the same effect on the CR-V.

Kirstie_H · September 2003

Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat -- Our topic tonight is "Warranties: Are they worth it?"

http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!

kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

evergladescrv · September 2003

98 CRV it seems for the last year everytime it rains water collects on the driver side floorboard. (what a stench) anyway I have checked the windshield gasket, the grommets on the firewall, the panel behind the wipers all to no avail. Is anyone out there having this problem?

robmarch · September 2003

is your drivers' door making a good seal with the car?

auburn63 · September 2003

Try and tape off (for a test) the top of your cowl,(the plastic piece at the base of the windshield) so the tape is on the cowl and the glass all the way across. If the leak is bad the cowl is either deformed, bent away from the glass or the cowl gasket is bad . Either way some new gasket material or a new cowl will fix it, if that is what it is. Usally what happens is the water gets into that area faster than it should and the drain areas can not handle the water and they overflow or it drips right down into the blower intake. Good luck

varmint · September 2003

Everglades - Lift the hood and remove the cowl at the base of the windshield. Check the weather stripping on the back edge of the engine compartment. You probably have a leak through the blower motor.

I can direct you to an article on the subject, but I cannot link it here. The site requires registration (free and no spam), but it's well worth it.

questionboy · September 2003

Hi guys,

I have a problem with my 2000 CRV. If anyone of you have similiar problem or can provide some clues for me and my "beloved dealer", appreciate your help.

The problem is whenever I drive the car over 40 miles/hour and release the gas pedal, there is a weird noice coming from somewhere. The noice sounds like wind blowing through forest. The noice will die down when the speed is below 40 miles/hour and no gas; and put the gear on idel will not make the sound disappear, However, if you apply gas (accelerate the car), the noice will be gone.

The noice comes out (I swear) after my dealer did 30k maintenance on my car. When I first heard the noice and sent the car in, they are so sure it is the decelerator problem: someone did not put enough oil into it. But later, they told me they could not find out the cause, and claim all CRVs have similar noice.

My question is have you guys heard any strange noice when over 40 miles/hour and apply no gas? Do you know whether this is a general defect or just
my luck?

Thanks.

varmint · September 2003

Sorry. That's a new one to me.

veduci · September 2003

1998 CRV with 100,000 miles. Last 2 years the check engine light comes on / goes off. Dealer has not been able to diagnose the problem. So far I can't determine any longterm negative effects. I have driven it for 20,000 miles acting this way. Anyone found a solution?

robmarch · September 2003

check the emissions control components. I'm not an expert here, but that's what the check engine light usually indicates. there are sensors, etc., that go bad and need replacing after a certain point.

do you have bad gas mileage or any other symptoms?

Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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