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thanks in advance
Log into Honda Owners link on Honda's main website. Enter your VIN number and see if the Ignition Switch Recall has been performed on the vehicle. If not, then scehdule an appointment at your Honda dealer to perform the ignition switch replacement, it is free to you.
If the switch replacement has been performed, then try other suggestions, such as tracing if the pump is getting voltage.
K&N may be good for high RPM driving, such as above 5000 RPM, when the thorttle plate is not the major obstacle for the air.
Be warned that K&N filter allos more fine particulates into the engine. So, if you are planning on keeping the vehicle for a long time, K&N is not your friend.
16000km (10000 miles) Machine rear rotors and replace pads - no/charge
66000km (41000 m) Replace rear pads and rotors. Machine front rotors - $592CAD
97000km (60000 m) Replaced front & rear pads. Machine f & r rotors - $160CAD
135000km (84000 m) Front calipers seized, and who knows what else?
Honda Dealer Estimate - $1700CAD
My wife and I are retired, in our mid-sixties, and drive carefully. (We already did the MGB and Sunbeam Rapier thingy in our youth).
Do I own a LEMON?
At 90K miles, dealer says pads have 10-15% left... all rotors are okay...
Now: 94K miles.. Getting pads replaced at next service (95K). Estimate at dealer is $300 for all four wheels (parts+labor).
I don't know if you own a lemon... and, I'm not sure what salt/ice your car is subject to (garaged?).. But, for $1700, I'd shop around.. :surprise:
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I have checked the power steering resevoir and that looks fine. Have checked the drive shafts and they look fine - Any Ideas ????
Cheers KP.
I still think it's a lemon, though...
Not a lemon, but maybe not enough preventative maintenance.
My 2003 CRV is making a groaning noise when you turn the wheel onto full lock (both sides) - what is an rdf ?
How do I rectify it ?
Cheers KP.
This sometimes happens when you turn the wheel all the way to the stops, this is normal especially if you do a lot of parallel parking, turnning the wheel all the way until it hits the stops is not good for the pump and shoud be avoided.
As having previously owned an 02 CRV, and driving in salty winters in western New York, I know the brakes, (especially the rear set), are prone to caliper corrosion. I recall there was even a TSB issued regarding noise caused by rear brake caliper corrosion.
Here's the deal:
135000 km Replace front calipers, rotors, pads $1261.61
I'm still not a Happy Camper!
Will take it to the garage to get it checked out.
Cheers KP.
A mechanic told me that the front brake pads need to be replaced, but that the rotors are in good condition. His fee would be $188 to replace just the pads. In comparison shopping, I called another mechanic who said that the current composition of pads generates more heat which will warp a rotor that has been re-surfaced rather than replaced, causing pulsating brakes. As such, his policy is never to replace just the pads, but to do a total brake "job" which includes pads, rotor replacement and labor. His quote is $361. He's willing to do just the pads and re-surface the rotors for $243, but says that if I return later complaining about brake pulsation, that I will be charged for new rotors + labor with no credit for work already done. I live in the NY/NJ area. What advice would you have for me. I sure am tempted to di the cheaper route. Thanks.
Mark
FYI, I own both a CRV and an Accord. I have them both serviced by my Honda dealer and when the Accord needed pads, they did not resurface or replace the rotors. When I asked why, they noted that based on how I drive, my rotors did not need resurfacing or replacement. I've not had any symptoms of brake pulsation.
While replacing your rotors is not a bad thing, just doing it when the pads are changed seems to be a way for that mechanic to earn additional income.
Jack
16000km (10000 miles) Machine rear rotors and replace pads - no/charge
66000km (41000 m) Replace rear pads and rotors. Machine front rotors - $592CAD
97000km (60000 m) Replaced front & rear pads. Machine f & r rotors - $160CAD
135000km (84000 m) Front calipers seized, and who knows what else?
Honda Dealer Estimate - $1700CAD
My wife and I are retired, in our mid-sixties, and drive carefully. (We already did the MGB and Sunbeam Rapier thingy in our youth).
Do I own a LEMON?
Not sure if you were following Honda's recommended maintenance for the rust/snow belt applications.
The brakes components need to be lubricated with Molykote-77 at least once a year, preferrably before winter season. Honda specifies this for all "rust belt/Snow belt" applications. Since you mention prices in CAD$, I assume you are in Canada, and need to have this maintenance performed regularly. I am in Buffalo and I do it twice a year, September and April. I bought a tub of Molykote-77 from Honda for a couple of dollars, and get brake cleaner from the auto parts store. Use a wire brush to clean everything, and then apply thin coat of Molykote-77 on the sliding pins, edges of the brake pads, and all other moving parts (DO NOT let the grease get on the braking surface of the rotors or brake pads!!!)
My rear rotors siezed up one time when I neglected to perform this after winter. Honda replaced them under warranty.
Good luck.
Depending on where you go and the type of pads, $200 is about right for an axle set. You might even get a better deal if you try Monro or PepBoys, if they are in your area.
Just for a reference point...
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Brake shops like to go ahead and replace the rotors since it's not much more expensive than turning them and more of the customers are happy and fewer come back to the shop with complaints. Since none of the new surfaces are grooved, bedding in problems seem to be minimized.
Or so I heard on Click and Click one Saturday morning. :shades:
Ex owner upgraded with OEM Alum wheels+ Kuhmo tires and also gave me the original 4 steel wheels with the original Dunlop GranTrak tires.
My CRV had the "pull to he right" issue, although the dealer had realigned the front wheels per Honda bulletin ( car still under warranty).
For this winter, I decided to put on the steel wheels...and spare the alum wheels from heavy salted Michigan roads.
Went to Bell Tires, put them on, and stored the Alum wheels in the basement.
SURPRISE! NO MORE PULL TO THE RIGHT . Car runs straight as a bullet, I can't believe I can take my hands off the steering.
Could anyone explain why??? I wish this would be the feeling with the Alum wheels too!!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The PTTR (pulls to the right) ceased when I would rotate the tires but eventually would return. Others have found that as a temporary fix.
I believe the tires develop "memory" from the constant pressure for PTTR, which is known technically as torque steer. When the engine sits sideways in a car (transverse engine) the axles running from the transmission to the wheels are of different lengths. That causes one side to have more torque than the other and thus the movement toward the side with the wheel that is driving with more torque.
I liken it to walking a small, headstrong dog on a leash.
When the PTTR is severe you can switch the front tires (which is contrary to the manufacturer's recommended rotation scheme of back tires going straight up to the front and front tires changing sides when they go to the back) and it will pull slightly the other way. For a brief while. Then it gradually starts pulling more and more back to the right side.
I went through this in depth a while back with my 2005 and won in arbitration through BBB -- a feat more rare than a blue moon, I'm told. The arbitration is stacked against the consumer, otherwise various car manufacturers wouldn't pay BBB to run the program. Through various online boards I was in touch with several other people who won arbitration concerning their CR-Vs.
Rather than take cash in the buy back, I asked for and got a great deal on a 2007. Honda did a bit of re-design to eliminate torque steer. Love the vehicle. Loved the old one, but the PTTR was a hassle, especially when I was driving a long distance with a fractured wrist/lower arm.
crvme3, "Honda CR-V Tires Wheels and Sensors" #210, 7 Dec 2007 5:42 pm
Seams that PTTR is an issue with 2007 CRV also, but because of the tires.
Thanks for your detailed explanation. I am stunt that Honda could not figured out this torque steer issue( if that's the cause of the PTTR) when they've engineered this otherwise very nimble and practical mini-SUV.
Looks like rotating the tires is the only way of preventing PTTR. I'll get back with the update after more miles driven with the new steel wheels.
Thanks again,
Dan
Just bought a used 1998 CR-V EX 2.0 litre 173,000k with 2 yr warranty on powertrain. I find it is very noisy in City driving, seems to roar like a lawn mower when depressing the accelerator around 25 mph. Is this typical of a CR-V engine? It is fine at high speeds on the highway and I like its handling. I was under the impression it was the muffler which looked new and shining but could have been cheap. It was not as quiet as a passenger car. Let me know of any experience with the CR-V regards this problem of noisy acceleration. Also can the spare tire be locked with the same wheel lock as I have on the other 4 wheels which is the McGuard type.
Thank you all in advance.
Clive L
i thought torque steer was essentially a phenomenon which was experienced when accelerating. so for it to contribute significantly to tire wear, wouldn't someone have to be a really agressive driver, and perhaps someone using a tire with a soft tread?
Pull is caused by 2 things: Tires or alignment.
In the case of tires, the property is called "Conicity" - root word "cone". This is a matter of degree rather than kind as you can get a little or a lot and everything in between.
Swapping the tires left to right is diagnostic - not a fix.
If the result is the pull changes direction, then the problem is in the tires.
If the result is the pull disappears, then it is both the tires and the alignment.
If the result is no change, then the problem is the alignment.
It is possible to wear conicity into a tire. So if the pull was OK, then gradually got worse, then the alignment is causing a wear pattern that is resulting in a conicity change in the tire.
Also: An alignment may be "In Spec" and not good enough. I have had several experiences where the alignment tolerance was so wide you could completely changed the way the vehicle behaved - all "In Spec". My experience is that you have to be within the inner half of the tolerance.
Rims CAN NOT affect pull. I can not conceive of a way that a rim could generate a consistent pull. A vibration? Yup!! but not a steady pull.
Just bought a used 1998 CR-V EX 2.0 litre 173,000k with 2 yr warranty on powertrain. I find it is very noisy in City driving, seems to roar like a lawn mower when depressing the accelerator around 25 mph. Is this typical of a CR-V engine? It is fine at high speeds on the highway and I like its handling. I was under the impression it was the muffler which looked new and shining but could have been cheap. It was not as quiet as a passenger car. Let me know of any experience with the CR-V regards this problem of noisy acceleration. Also can the spare tire be locked with the same wheel lock as I have on the other 4 wheels which is the McGuard type.
Thank you all in advance.
Clive
Clive L
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
It is because the front end assembly has oval holes where it bolts onto round bolts sticking out from the frame. With oval on round, there is wiggle room for which there are no specs. You also could call it slop.
So add that to the transverse engine with one axle shorter than the other. You have torque steer. Some CR-Vs have a lot. Some have litttle. How much or how little determines how much or how little the transverse engine and one long/one short axle shafts cause PTTR.
It depends on how, by chance, your front end assembly was tightened to the bolts at the frame. Nobody, not even the guy living that monotony on the assembly line, knew how it would come out.
With my 2005, after a whole lot of other tries, some of them absurd, the Honda dealer in his last try adjusted mine by loosening the front end assembly and shifting it slightly and re-bolting it, gaining, as they said, "some caster."
The Honda technicians pointed out this was not an adjustment point. They meant there was no measurement for what they were doing, no specs, no calibration. (Blindfolds.) They were just moving it around and trying for something better. Apparently it works sometimes. It didn't for mine.
This was after the numerous front end alignments were found to be within specs but there still was some problem. That's because the entire front end was in synch because it was bolted so neatly with its oval-on-round configuration. It just happened to be out of synch with the differing torques of the axles. (My real world experience, as was that of the arbitrator and the expert he called in to check it out: From a stop on level ground, no hands on the steering wheel, push the accelerator to the floor and find your vehicle in the next lane to the right within less than two car lengths.)
BTW, this is why for the 2007 model they re-engineered the whole thing to eliminate torque steer, and from my experience with a 2005 and now a 2007 they were largely successful in doing so.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
i was thinking non-OEM rims which might have had manufacturing inconsistencies in the lip or the bead to rim interface when comparing inside to outside. :surprise:
i'm gonna stop thinking from here on out and do more reading and listening.
Absolutely.
Second, my when my passenger door is open, the overhead light does not go on anymore, nor does the dashboard light register that the door is open. Driver side works fine.
Any thoughts
I recently bought a hard plastic spare tire cover for my Honda CR-V and it's a Gem of a Gem. It sells for $750 at Honda dealers. Thing is I don't know how to lock this cover so it cannot be stolen if parked all day at a train station parking lot. Any suggestions would be very welcome. My 5 alloy wheels are locked incidentally.
CL
The job took approx.1 hr andcost £85.00. (Dec '07).
Good as new now !
KP.
Alas. It turned out that one of the front tires was low on air, and that counter-balanced the PTTR. Got the tire back to 30 psi and, voila, PTTR with a vengeance.
New tires will end it, too. Switching the front tires from one side to the other will end it.
But like Jason of the horror movies, or Freddie Kruger, PTTR will be back.
BTW, front tires were crossed when crv had 150 mi. on it, had no effect.
Rear tires were moved to the front and crossed, no effect, still had PTTR.
Lowering tire pressure on front driver side had minimal effect.