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I usually use orange colored windshield fluid that is supposed to not freeze till -40F or something. But last week when the windchill was about -10F, my windshield fluid froze. It's 2008 CR-V. Anyone with same experience?
I use three places
Bernard Parts, Handa Accessories & Honda Auto Parts, Use the one with the Cheepest Price
I assume you meant that it froze after spraying it onto your windshield. Typically, the "washer fluid" is a mixture of water and some form of alcohol which tends to lower the freezing point. It will remain liquid for temperatures well below the freezing point of water - as long as it's in a closed container.
Wind will cause the very thin layer of the fluid on your windshield to evaporate quite quickly, particularly the alcohol component. This causes the remaining fluid, now mostly water, to get much colder. Unless your windshield has been warmed up (from the inside), you're left with supercooled water and it instantly leaves a thin film of ice on your windshield.
"Preheating" your windshield may help.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Crv on bad washboard makes terrible sound underneath towards back of car. Has dealership confused. I thought muffler hangers, now wondering if it is not the trans mounting rubbers wore out. New shocks have been put on.
To mcdermott, You can get the tiny replacement screws for your remote car opener key fob at any eyeglass shop
Many thanks, I'll give it a try at the eyeglass shop.
Regards,
Jack
If it is the same shop that replaced it last time, RUN FROM THEM LIKE THEY WERE ON FIRE. They are scam artists. Either they did not replace it last time you paid them to do that, or they just lieing about the belt now.
Search youtube for hidden videos at Firestone shops, where they don't even touch the parts you pay them to replace.
I have a beautiful 1999 Honda CRV. I have had no issues but two. My clock no longer works and my automatic door locks don't work on my key fob. Now the weird thing is it is just when its warm. Freezing cold, middle of winter, no problems, I can lock and unlock using the remote. Today however weather is in the mid 60's and nada, nothing...
Is this an issue with the fuse or am I going to have to take it to my repair person!
Thanks a bunch
Have the Ignition switch recall been performed?
So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
Any tips or advice most welcome
Regards, Salsaboy
What did you have for coolant? It takes a lot of really cold weather to freeze 50% antifreeze (Honda branded).
Ifoyu jus thad water in there, then you most likely broke the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, and this is why you see drippage under the crank pulley.
While you are at it, replacing the water pump, replace the timing belt as well. On the 96 model it was only good for 60,000 miles.
I have a Honda CRV 2002. I was driving at 35 mph and probably a ice block hit the bottom of the car.I see under the Honda CRV when looking from passenger side front door a cylindrical part ( 1 foot in length) which has a square hole and looks rusted. What is this part ?
Thanks
kanas
A standard 1/4" racket drive fits into the square hole of the fill and drain plugs. It will be tight. Loosen the top (fill) plug first. Hate to drain the fluid then find out that you can't get the fill plug open.
Drain the fluid, then hold the hose of the pump thing in the hole and start pumping. Refill till the fluid starts to overflow a bit - you'll know when it's topped off. That's it.
I pulled out my multi-tester and found voltage on both hot wires at the connector, so I'm stumped. Did you find any info, here or elsewhere?
I guess I forgot to mention that when I found voltage where it should be, I replaced both bulbs with no effect.
Anyone have a similar problem, and hopefully a solution?
Of course I did not realize this new post would end up right next to my reply to the other post, but oh, well.
Perhaps you put in the wrong bulbs or some how broke them as you were putting them in. You cannot touch the bulbs with your hands - use latex gloves and change them often (gets very dirty) and the frst time doing it can be tricky.
Also check the connection to the bulb and make sure it is actually fully in. Finally make sure hte bulb is seated correctly. Not a big deal but can be tough the first time.
As far as getting the Crank Pulley Nut off, an impact gun will usually do the trick if you can get it in the space, and in a pinch, I have even seen people (and done personally) use the starter to provide the torque. You need a place where the wrench/ratchet is obstructed (in the right direction). You place the tool on the nut/bolt and rotate it until it meets the obstruction, then give the starter a tap. Obviously you want to make sure to disconnect the ignition so it does not actually start.
Oddly enough, based on the diagram, I should not have had positive voltage on either wire because honda seems to have wired them the opposite of most I've seen before. The "Hot" wire is the middle wire of the connector, and the left/right wires of the connector go to ground through the switch on the column. Of course, that confuses things even more, and I'm not 100% sure that the book is correct. I'll have to get over and take another look at it with this new information, and see if I can make sense out of it.
So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
A) If you are in the US or Canada, there were no FWD CR-V EX offered for sale in 2001. Only LX came in FWD with auto only model.
Use NGK or Denso plugs only.
C) Valve lash needs to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, on the loose side.
D) Replace tranny, and rear differential fluids with Honda ATF and Honda Dual pump fluids only, preferrably within 30,000 mile intervals.
E) Timing belt on that vehicle needs to be replaced at 105,000, I believe. While at it, replace the water pump as well.
F) Use Honda Type 2 coolant.
I think, this is it.
At about 60mph (even sooner lately) my CRV starts to vibrate .The problem is it comes and goes. It seems to be getting worse. But here is the problem: eventually it goes away! If I put on the brakes while its happening ,I can feel the rotors pulsating,but when the CRV is not vibrating, and I put the brakes on,there is no pulsing.I had the differencial fluid changed about 4 months ago for the documented steering noise.
One interesting thing is that I had the tires balanced 3 weeks ago and then went for a 100 mile drive and there was no problem. But within a couple days it was back.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Mike
1) your brake rotors are warped. you can have them machined, but the warpage will come back.
The most common cause warped disk rotors on Hondas is the use of air tools to tighten the wheel bolts. It cases uneven distribution of torque and makes the rotors warp really fast. If you have a shop doing your wheels, ask them to use torque wrenches when installing wheels. Torque sticks are not precise enough. Torque should be set to 80 ft. lbs and applied in criss cross pattern.
2) Some of the balancing weights may have come off, or the wheel got bent on one of the trips.
This problem comes and go's. It happens almost everytime I drive, but except for the speed, I cant tell when its going to happen.
Are there any Honda Techs listening....
From what I've been reading this is pretty common with this vehicle, but nobody seems to have a documented cause.
Thanks
Mike
-Mark
So it's either shame on me or shame on your mechanic
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Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
Is this the official Honda Owner's Manual?
Or the Chilton's or Hayes shop manuals? Those are wrong about many things.
Helms manual is the only official Honda Shop manual.