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Comments
Off-vehicle Dynamic balance
On-vehicle dynamic balance
On-vehicle runout check
Off vehicle runout check
Measure wheel runouts
Check index assemblies on wheel studs
Measure axle or hub flange runout
Check engine drive line imbalance.
I agree that changing the tires again will probably not solve the problem. my guess is it's either a bent rim which a wheel run out check would find , poor alignment or an imbalance with the drive axles and assembly.
Hope this helps you a bit.
Cheers for the New year
Roger
One big point to remind everyone about our common Aurora problems: if you have to have a part like the Alt. or a compressor replaced and you are paying for it yourself, most GM dealers offer the PartsPlus program which is a lifetime parts AND labor warranty so after you replace that waterpump the first time out of warranty, its basically the last time you will pay for it as long as you own the car. Just a reminder.
The rear main seal on my '95 seems to be leaking pretty heavily. I haven't determined a consumption rate yet, but have already had to put a quart in after only about 800 miles from the last oil change (could have not been filled all the way -- don't know yet). I typically change my oil every 3200-3500 miles and have NEVER had to put in any in between.
Other than the pulling the whole engine/trans out to fix it, does anyone have any suggestions that might at least slow it down?
Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.dot.state.wi.us/safety/consumer/rights/lemonlaw.htm
Where exactly do you live? If you decide to try taking it to another Olds dealer for diagnosis, I can recommend a couple in the state: Kuettner Olds GMC in Waukesha is my dealer, and they are very good (Renner Olds, where I bought my '98 used, was not). I've heard that Ahrens Cadillac Olds in Madison is pretty good (where my mother-in-law bought her '98 used). Hesser in Janesville was terrible (since closed).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
I thought I would try it if my leak gets any worse. I do have the extended warranty but I'm not sure I want just anyone doing serious work on my car.
Hope this helps
we are from Tomah . we purchased the car at bob burg in LaCrosse. We are very satisfied with the dealership and their service dept. I think is outstanding.They are working with us an are helping us get the ball rolling. I will make sure to keep you updated on our lemon. Thank's again.
Jim
The dealer took me that this is a normal operation condition for the Aurora with this type of air pump!!!!
When the air pump comes on it drains the electric system to much.
Has anyone else had this problem and is it a "normal condition" as the dealer said.....
What make my experience EVEN BETTER is that on that 240 mile trip my aftermarket warrenty EXPIRIED!!! Can you belive that, just hours after coverage is up, I dry up, and LOSE.
Murphy's law. Just hours after.
Filled it up today with some dex-cool approved, went straight to the Caddy/Olds dealer with an extra bottle of coolant in the back seat. I was planning on buying there Heritage Caddy 3-yr warrenty for $1700. Just talked to the Finace guy 3 weeks ago, never guess what happend next, They dropped that warrenty company 2-weeks ago, had problems paying the bill on a 3G head gasket leak. So He couldn't offer me any good warrenty on my high mileage 96, has 91K Only thing at the time I can get is 1-yr GM powertrain only for $1,110. That stinks. He said that there not even going to look for a warrenty company right now. This dealer sells mostly New Caddys so not a big priorty for them.
Thank you car gods. Haven't I been good to you? I buy you nice things, wash you with better towels than I use on my body, All ways feed you Premium from Amoco/BP. Why? Why? Why?
OK, interestingly enough, once a got to the dealer I checked to see how much leaked out. NOTHING. What's up with that? DIC still read Low coolant, My service guy guesses that it's a gasket. After the dealer I went to work, stoped checked in between, level was same, checked before and afterwork, same, and there weren't any spots on the pavement either. Makes things a little better. Going to find an aftermarket warrent this weekend and wait the 30-days before my first claim. Hopefully I don't get shafted.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
Again, this only happens with the V6...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
that quote is music to my ears.
Henri
But...the SES light will stay on for a day or so, and then just one day, will turn off.
I don't have a aftermarket warranty on it yet..(any suggestions on one?), so i'm reluctant to take it to the dealership yet.
Any guesses on what could be causing that problem? So far I've tried switching from preminum gas to lower ones, still happens.
any guesses? anyone else experience that problem and find the cause?
Also....Looking at aftermarket warranties. I like accel warranty so far, but, there's a few things they don't cover which I'd like a warranty to cover. Like...the Engine control computer/module. Anyone ever have problemw ith their aurora's where those fail?
Can't speak for the warranty company you're looking at, but I have 1Source and they've been excellent. I've had 3 major repairs (AC compressor, IAC motor, and an electronic control module in the dash) - all covered with no hassles and at no cost to me. I recommend getting an "exclusionary" warranty, where they list what they won't cover, not what they do (lots of holes in that approach)...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
--Robert
(Check the obsession board for my postings about my repairs.)
Good Luck
Have fun!
PS Be careful not to loose any of the little ball bearings in the valve body.
My Aurora does not have an "off" button, but has a rotary knob to turn the system off. I have tried several different combinations of button pressing on the Driver Information Center and on the Climate control. But none got me to the diagnostic mode.
How is the done on the Aurora?
Thanks for the info
Dave
1. Turn the ignition switch ON. [Bruce notes: interestingly, the engine can be on or off]
2. On the cars up to 1995, on the Climate Control panel, press the OFF and WARM buttons simultaneously.
As for extended warranty, I'm getting ready to purchase one from warrantywizard.com. Right now they have a 4 yr/48,000 mile, $0 deductable, for $1149 or $1249. The $1249 plan (preferred price), covers far more components than the $1149 plan. It does cover the engine control computer. The $0 deductable is the best way to go. You can however get $100 deductable for a cheaper price. But first time you use warranty, the $0 deductable will pay for itself.
If I were you, I would definitely check them out.
Accel was $1349, or something to that effect, for 3 yr/36,000 mile.
You can pay total upfront, or they also offer 0% interest payment plans.
Your fuel pressure regulator is mounted to the fuel injector for cylinder no. 7. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the intake manifold. Take care with the gasoline that will leak out.
Michael from Poland (somewhere in Central Europe)
From Poland - very cool. I remember way back Zinc mentioned that somebody in Poland had an Aurora. Maybe you are this person. I hope your car has been good to you. Where do you get service for an Oldsmobile in Poland?
Off topic but what the heck - I took a vacation in Poland a couple years back. Absolutely beautiful country. I know some people there too. I'd like to visit again someday. The Aurora in Poland must get some attention.
I also have a '95. Mine has about 95K miles on it. I just experienced the exact problem. It turned out to be the oil sending unit. REPLACE WITH A GM ONLY!!
When I put my car in for it's last oil change, the mechanic (great guy) called me and said he noticed my oil sending unit was leaking. I told him to replace it. Two days after I picked up the car I was sitting at a stop light and the DIC alarm came on w/ low oil pressure. Like you, I switched to the monitor and was reading about 9 or 10 PSI. It came back up when I reved the engine a little, then went down to about 5 PSI and the light came on as it idled back. But the car had oil in it and was sounding / running fine.
My mechanic changed out the oil sending unit the next day and everything seemed fine until a week later when it happened again. Seems he was using an aftermarket unit. He replaced it again w/ a GM/Delco part and problem solved.
Hope you're enjoying the car as much as the rest of us!
If you are having a miss you can usually see an arc fire from the metal peg to the coil itself (removing a wire one at a time while the engine is at idle) So $600 is a lot considering the parts would amount to about $300 to replace all 4 coils and plug cables.
Good luck
Roger
Sorry if I sound stupid.
The OEM coils are about $45 each at a discount GM dealer. Accel has a replacement at same price; they are yellow. I do not have the Accel part number at hand, but can find it if you need it. It is not likely that 4 coils failed at the same time.
OEM GM plug wires are expensive; I paid about $110 three months ago. AC Delco plugs are about $4 each. I don''t have information on labor as I did the work myself.
I replaced plugs and wires at ~83000 miles because of ignition misses.
The ignition module, which the 4 coils plug onto, is a possible culprit. It is a $400 part. The good news is that I have never seen any post about a defective one.
Greg, I think a better name for the part Larry is talking about is oil pressure sending unit. As sinatra said, it is what sends the oil pressure reading. It doesn't send any actual oil. They usually aren't too hard to replace, but sometimes are hard to find. They look and attach a lot like an O2 sensor. It's a big cylinder with a pigtail that screws into the engine somewhere.
Sinatra2's right. The oil sending unit is a sensor that screws right into the crank case and monitors the oil pressure. It's what sends the signal to the oil gauges or (in our cars) the monitor. Apparently my replacements weren't calibrated right from the aftermarket manufacturer for the Aurora and were sending the wrong readings to the DIC.
The first time was after just turning the car off (didn't wait more than 1-2 seconds before restarting it). Having just had the oil changed, I checked it after the engine cooled, and the level was fine. I attributed it to the quick re-start and thought nothing of it.
Well... it happened yesterday after lunch (car was off 30-45 minutes). I drove back to work and let it be (it just dinged right when I started driving), and checked the oil level (full) before going home.
It's cold outside (10 degrees F), so I don't know if that's related (don't remember what it was like the first time it happened). I do let the car warm up at least 1-2 minutes (more if it's colder), and don't push it above 2500-3000 rpm's until it's warmed up.
Thoughts? Ideas? I'll be sure to mention it to my dealer at the next oil change. Hope it's just a gauge anomaly, not a problem getting oil to the engine (since the level is fine)...
Thanks, in advance,
--Robert
Regards
Mike
Thx and regards
Mike