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Two factors make me suspect tire failure, though: first, only that one tire had begun to lose a little air in the week prior to the blowout, and second, they're Wilderness tires. I've read some of the other posts regarding the OB Wilderness tires, and it seems a lot have replaced them already due mostly to handling or road noise. As I mentioned, the wear didn't seem to indicate immediate replacement.
Jeff
To Paisan, your post in response to mine was sarcastic and rude and not necessary on this board.
The aging tire is the factor. You've got a set of tires that have been used 50k miles. Those other three surviving tires will have to go too; the replacement tire won't be within 1/4" circumference of the other three. So, don't skim and get your OB a good new set. :-)
-Dave
-mike
Please email me or any of the message board hosts if you think someone is doing something that is in violation of our guidelines, and let us handle the situation. Otherwise, it's best to just completely ignore the messages/posters you do not like. Please note: any further back/forth bickering or off topic personal remarks will be automatically deleted.
And let's get back to the subject of Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons - Problems & Solutions. Thanks!
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Secondly, if by coincidence this tire alternately suffered a puncture and went flat, often just the time it takes to get stopped from that speed can destroy the sidewalls and make it look like a catastrophic tire failure instead. I personally experienced this with one of the tire industry's moste reliable and proven tires - the Michelin LTX M/S. Great tire.
Driving 70 on a rural highway, I heard a metalic clang under the truck, followed by an air blast from a tire puncture. I applied enough brakes to stop the truck in minimum distance without locking the flat tire, which took perhaps 200-250 feet. Walking around the vehicle, the RR tire was not only shredded, it was actually smoking! So, a perfectly healthy tire was reduced to scrap in approximately 8 seconds of driving.
So, consider the possibility that you did not have a massive tire disintegration but simply saw the destruction of brief fully deflated running from a puncture or from low (very low) running at highway speeds.
The advice to get 4 new tires is also a good idea as drive train components will suffer if you have mismatched tires/brands.
IdahoDoug
I'm a newbie, so be gentle!
I have a '03 Outback which has already seen one clutch replacement from the clutch-chatter problem. It's fixed now, but I am concerned that it's starting to experience the same problem. Has anyone had to have this fixed more than once?
Also, in a fit of scraping off all the inside-window stickers that are plastered all over new rigs, I took one of the AWD stickers off the back window and now I feel all off kilter. Is there any way to get a hold of any more of those stickers? Thanks!
Oh and one more thing! The driver and passanger window rain deflectors (that are no longer made or offered for my car) made aftermarket...any experience with which ones give the best fit? I'm getting drenched!
thanks again
I de-badged mine too, but I didn't keep the stickers, else I'd send you mine.
iSR Subaru might sell OE rain deflectors.
-juice
The orginal clutch was replaced in May this year, at about 17,000 miles. They replaced it under warranty.
Currently, I'm not convinced it's heading south, but I did sense some chatter the last few days, although it was nothing like what was happening before. I guess I just wanted to see if anyone else had this happen more than once?
What can you tell me about getting an improper replacement? Was there a stage when they were fixing it with parts that were still faulty?
thanks again...
Start here:
http://isrperformance.com/
Pam can get stuff from Europe. Those rain covers are not sold in the US, some say because US customers complain too much about the wind noise, but Pam can generally get anything Subaru makes, for a price of course.
-juice
The orginal clutch was replaced in May this year, at about 17,000 miles. They replaced it under warranty.
Currently, I'm not convinced it's heading south, but I did sense some chatter the last few days, although it was nothing like what was happening before. I guess I just wanted to see if anyone else had this happen more than once?
What can you tell me about getting an improper replacement? Was there a stage when they were fixing it with parts that were still faulty?
thanks again...
Camry Solara passed me at speed on the left, perhaps 80-85 mph. 15 seconds later I see blue smoke ahead and the Solara making its way to the shoulder of the freeway. Just as it reached the shoulder the tire came off the left front rim and kind of rolled back into the traffic lanes. When I passed, the Solara was stopped with bare rim on the roadway. LOTS of blue smoke from the tire.
I didn't see the condition of the tire when the car first passed me, but assume that it was low already and the heat and stress from the running was enough to take it off. By the way, the Solara wasn't more than a year old so wouldn't think the tire had more than 15k-20k miles (although could have had 50k for all I know).
Steve
Len
relieved, until the clutch started shuddering shortly thereafter. I’ve just had a
second clutch replacement at 18,000 miles. I hope Subaru finally got it right. I
don’t understand why a clutch is a problem. They’ve been around for awhile,
and why wouldn’t Subaru install a working clutch from the get go? Isn’t Subaru
losing money replacing these clutches? Emma
p.s. I’m hoping the next time I have to go into reverse up (even a small) hill that I
won’t smell my clutch burning horribly...I’ve never experienced that with
clutches in other cars.
-juice
Thanks for the additional input on the tires. Sorry if I snapped at the sarcastic comment; guess I wasn't feeling too good already about not replacing the tires before we left.
Regarding the air loss, the loss was only a single fill of a couple of psi, not anything that would make me suspect any kind of a real leak, unless I had seen it again. As I said, in hindsight (20/20) the air loss should have been an indication. I know the mileage was high, but I've run many tires over 60K with plenty of tread left and the tires in relatively good shape, and decided to replace the tires mostly because of handling in rain. In retrospect, the problem was likely a combination of a leak, the tire age, and the Oklahoma heat.
Idahodoug and ffsteve, thanks for your anecdotes about the tire shreddings. That is the most convincing information yet that it was probably just a flat that shredded.
And finally, yes I immediately had all 4 tires replaced!
Jeff
Jeff
I am at 20,000 Kms on my 2003 Outback LL Bean and am also on my third set of front rotors. The first were replaced at around 3,000 Kms, and just had them replaced again at 18,000Kms. When braking, I notice a slight twitching in the steering wheel and a very apparant vibration throughout the car. The dealer asked me if there were any hills around, and if I rode on the brakes a lot. While there are some short hills, (done at 50Km/hr) I do a fair bit of short distance highway driving. I think that I am fairly careful with the brakes, and did not have any problems with with my old Legacy.
Does any body have a recommendation for some heavier duty rotors for the car? I looked on Brembo's site, but didn't really see anything that would work on mine.
Any ideas would be great,
Thanks
After wrangling with dealer service I had to call Subaru brass for resolution. Subaru was very responsive,,, then the dealer snapped to it. I think I could have gotten a brand new hatch but didn't want to pursue it unless it was factory painted which was problematic with time, interfering with my plans to sell the car for a new one. Anyway, I opted for the auto body repair which turned out good.
Would like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem. If not, I would check your hatches where it meets the rear bumper cover and make sure there is clearance. If not, you will indeed be getting rust.
I wanted to Thank all who had ideas regarding my 2002 Legacy. Juice and dhmccabe, I very much appreciate your feedback. I will share the results when I get the car back from the shop.
Joseph
Welcome, Joseph, keep us posted.
designman: interesting. The steel is galvanized, but the rubbing must have worn off even the zinc coating they apply to the sheet metal. Thanks for the heads up.
-juice
I tried to get Brembo's for the front, but they don't make the larger size for the Bean yet. I think the OE rotors are inferior in composition (I don't know lots about metalurgy or physics, but I do know that more warp resistant materials and manufacturing processes are available and cost more money, so Subaru may have tried to save a few bucks in the rotor dept.). As soon as someone makes a good replacemnt rotor (not drilled or slotted), I will be happy to try them out. You can see my previous post #1455 (copy below) and the responses for some more background.
Matt
#1455 of 1855 Aftermarket rotors for '02 OB - Suggestions? by blackbean May 13, 2003 (2:41 pm)
I am at 12K with my '02 LLBean OB and after having the dealer replace (not turn) the rotors at 1K, I feel the pulsing and vibration returning. I would obviously like Subaru to build a better rotor, but this is driving me crazy! I may just buy aftermarket products if a good (read "warp resistant") aftermarket rotor exists.
I see Tire rack offers EBC grooved sport rotors and greenstuff pads - total parts would be $484.
What do people reccomned for street use (not rally or race - but a slight improvement in overall performance without any other mods is fine).
Suggestions??? Expereinces? Prices? Sources?
Thanks!
Matt
FWIW, C&D did a full brake system test on the WRX, I'm sure it's very similar (perhaps even the same). They tested several kits.
Most kits required warming up, the Hawk pads with stock rotors performed well from the get-go. I think for most people that's ideal.
-juice
Is this for real, I find their reasons profoundly absurd, but would like to get the opinions of other owners on this.Thanks.
I have seen many bolts grossly overtightened, and it can indeed mess up your brakes.
I do most of the work myself, but if I know someone else tightened the lugs, I re-torque them manually, every time, no exceptions.
-juice
Greg
Well, the '01 is pretty well sorted out. You don't have the wheel bearing issue from earlier Foresters and Imprezas. The Phase II is less prone to any kind of leaks (seals/gaskets), too.
Just keep her maintained properly, stick with us, and if she starts sounding/acting strange let us know and we'll try to help trouble shoot it.
-juice
bit
My "solution" has been to stick a metal pen (a Cross) between the window still and the upper frame (parallel to the trailing vertical edge of the tweeter kit) - it puts just enough pressure on the tweeter trim kit/seal to eliminate the gap and the wind noise. I only do this on long highway trips, as the pen falls out when you slam the door. If they re-engineer the tweeter kit/seal to be more rigid, then I think that would solve the probem.
Any other, more premanent solutions being used out there?
Matt
Ralph
Thanks
Patti
Having bought two other Subies new ('86 and '98) I never had these problems. But now, with all the run around, the idea of trading for an '05 OB is being replaced with the thought of Volvo XC.
Has anyone gotten any satisfaction out of SOA on this issue? Between this and the driver side wind whistle, I'm a tad fed up.
And on a totally different issue. does anyone know how to calibrate the on board thermometer? My outside temp reads about 4 degrees high...
Thanks in advance for input
Hopefully, we'll get you some answers. Sorry about the repeat problems.
Thanks!
Patti
Subaru turned the front rotors at 10K, then replaced the front rotors AND front pads at 22K. Dealer said the rotors were defective w/ "hot spots" - defective areas in the rotor.
They've been fine ever since...
Ralph
Ralph
Patti
[one more time] :-)
2005 H6 Outback...
side curtain head bags
driver seat memory - at least 2 settings (gets tiring going back and forth with wife's setting)
monotone paint (black!)
wider body/track
more noise insulation (my 92 Camry was quieter than my Bean)
mechanically - less understeer (unless 2003 strut/shock redesign took care of that)
There. That'll help keep the Outback's niche secure...
:-)
Ralph
if you're going to ask for 2 driver seat memory, better include on your list that a 2 driver ECU memory be incorporated to it
-Dave
p/s: you shouls be posting your want list in the "Suggestion" thread.
-juice
And to blackbean...you can use a Cross pen in your Bean. I will have to try a plain old Bic in my GT Ltd! LOL I guess if you can swing the H6 3.0 you have some extra Cross' laying around. Mine have to stay at my desk!!! LOL J/K
I rechecked a few days ago and it has finally dropped slightly below the low. I checked my WRX and it was also slightly below low. I added a half pint to each which took it halfway to full. Since I live in Texas (HOT,HOT,HOT), my new conclusion that the loss is from evaporation coupled with the small coolant tank. It doesn't bother me anymore about an engine problem, but I do remain curious whether others, particularly in hot climates, have to ever add coolant. I dunno - maybe I just have a thirsty mouse in my garage with a straw.
BTW, no problems with either car. Wife loves VDC; I love WRX; I also love that wife doesn't balk when we take the WRX.
Mike
Beyond frustrated.
Anyone try this http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/hesitation.htm for their Subaru hesitation problem
That's a good sign of an incompetent Service Department when they won't diagnose. Replacing is the easy way out and they are spending your money instead of spending THEIR money on training and good techs.
My advice is to ask here on the list if there is a good dealer in your area, or find a good independent shop. Perhaps a national transmission shop chain would also be able to do it.
My feeling as a mechanically inclined person is that a sensor (speed would be a good guess) is not working properly either because it was disturbed by prior engine work (!), or a random failure. If it were a mechanical problem requiring total replacement, it would not be intermittent. Once an auto loses gears physically they don't come back and work fine for a while. Even a half wit mechanic would know this.
IdahoDoug
Jon
There are many products that you could use for this purpose, here's one: "Reflect-A-Cool" from Thermal Tuning Products.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Matt
Len